Basically the engine is getting extremely hot although the water temperature is not getting abnormally high, the ecu struggles to maintain an even tickover around 850rpm dipping to 500rpm. Engine is getting very tight and runs unevenly at normal speeds (40-60).
Air sensor is located level with the radiator below halfway
I see a sensor locating problem, too but rising to 18AFR
is a bit high for the reason of bad location. A difference
of lets say 40 degrees air temp just from my feeling will
not be enough to cause such problems.
My air temp is taken in the original PI system just after the air filter
besides radiator and before the air tube to collector.
The other problems with oil pressure and water temp
are not EFI related and should be solved before going on.
Did not read the whole thread why is there no AFR targeting
and EGO control employed?
The advice I have followed without regret is that Twin Red TR5 springs are just about optimum, however you should also be led by the advice of who supplies your cam, (unless of course you think they are just trying to up sell you).
IF anyone minded brain picking I'd have been thrown off long ago.
Triple CD carbs is a Marmite Question, a good start read could be https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/43950-are-triple-carbs-rubbish/page-3?hl= triple strombergs
I'd not consider it lowering sights, but maybe rather building an engine for intended use rather than aiming at a number that may deliver the opposite.
NB If your thinking of Historic Saloon Racing check the regs first before building the engine. Nothing worse that spending a lot of time and effort only to be told at scrutineers "you can't run".
NB. If the regs allow it? EFI would probably be as cheap as triple webbers.
Gasket maybe Elmeso-Reban custom made for about 140 Euros.
They have a website.
Springs must suit the cam.
If they make the cam fail they bound what will eat the top of lobe
or will eat the lobe from bad oiling what happens at (long) idle.
To be on the safe side a race engine should not idle much or for a longer time.
The beding in cam and followers is the main process for long life.
Would take the springs recommended for the cam, run cam in with recommended process
for 20 minutes use ZDDP and that is what we can do.
A interesting idea might be with hard springs to bed in with soft springs avoiding high revs
ans when engine is ready to use swap the springs to the race springs.
Not sure what problem we are advising on here?
Oil pressure - the numbers you quote are way high for idle. I suspect your gauge lies as 95 psi cold idle plus some revs would likely produce oil filter popping pressures. Otherwise there is something amiss with the relief valve.
Hot idle problem - I'm almost sure this will prove to be a heat-soak problem with your inlet air temperature sensor. The signal from this is used as part of the ECUs fuelling calculation to correct for air density. Warm air is less dense so less fuel required but if the sensor is being over-warmed it will over-correct and cause a lean mixture. Where is the sensor located?
Thanks for the replies, food for thought. What are you thoughts on valve springs?
I don't want to learn from my own pile of scrap parts and I realise that there is some real life experience on here so I hope you all don't mind me picking brains!
I agree that maybe the Lucas pi is a bridge too far and I may spend the rest of my life trying to get it to fuel right. Maybe I'll just have to bite the bullet on the triple webbers.
Has anybody used 3 SU's with any success?
Triumph-V8 has pointed me in direction of a custom head gasket (thanks for that) and as long as I'm not changing it every weekend it's not going to hurt too much.
I hear what your saying otu I'm not expecting (or wanting) to set the world on fire I just would like to get out there and have some fun so maybe I should lower my sights just slightly and go in the direction you suggest. I certainly want to spend more time driving than with the engine in bits.
Tr6 efi is now running well most days, till we got to this hot spell. On a run round country lanes she is fine till you in to traffic, temp gauge starts to rise electric fan come on and just about copes for short periods, but never boils as such. Took a reading with laser temp gauge and it’s about normal around 80c. It’s the air temp that gets very hot 40c + when this happens the tickover starts to suffer, starts around 900 and slowly goes down to 500 then stalls o2 gauge goes very week 16 to 18.
Have changed the rad new lower stat flushed the engine out , slightly better, one thing I have got is very very high oil pressure, cold 95 tickover hot 65
2000rpm hot over 100
Any ideas welcome
A few competitors in the Sprint Hill Climb championship have run 2.7 T6's with around that BHP number, but have either run Tripple Webbers or EFI . I suspect because its easier to get the fueling about right, there may not be many people with the expertise to set up a Lucas PI at those limits.
I think 2.7 head gaskets can also be wallet lightening, however I suspect from the spec your aiming at you'll have to do what we all have to at times which is tear up the invoices as they arrive.
I wouldn't take John's comment as don't do it. We all enjoy an interesting project as it develops.
About my only two cents worth would be with a relatively heavy car think about an engine that will produce as much torque as possible in the 3-5.5K band as that's where you will get the most driving benefit, an engine that's producing 200 bhp at 6.5K sounds good, but I think I'd rather have 150 and an engine with way more torque in the mid range. Its also cheaper to engineer as you keep out of the areas where things start stretching and flying apart.
NB. +1 for the maxspeeding rods, they happily pull 7K (for brief periods) in my 2ltr.