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Everything posted by spitfire6

  1. Hi, As I suspect my rear slave brake cylinder is shot I need to replace both. The slaves are available in; 10/16", 11/16" & 12/16" diameter. No idea what is presently fitted. My master is 12/16" and minimal travel. I believe I want 12/16". The 10 or 11 would only give less travel? I have all the total area's for the front pistons if it matters. Why would I not pick 12/16" for rear slaves? Cheers, Iain.
  2. Hi melmac, What size the bore for the master cylinder? I think I need to take this route on my car. Cheers, Iain.
  3. Hi, starting to wonder if I'm now drinking oil. Rethinking orifice & flow path. Total redesign. First to measure DP with a tube down the dip stick tube. Phosphoric acid wiped on chrome only appears to remove the brown stuff. Cheers, Iain.
  4. Hi, I have a manometer with a recording facility. #1 I can check I always have a lower pressure WRT to the atmosphere & #2 the differential never goes too high? Cheers, Iain.
  5. Hi, opened the filter to check. Oil is going into it. Flow is splashing it over the aluminium alloy holed acceleration plate. The bottom nipple extends into the vessel by around 2mm. Hence the oil in the pictures. Will the constant flow of fluids into the vessel fill it with liquid before I stop for refuel on the motorway after 100 miles? I don't want it spraying liquid over the sintered bronze deal. Could it ever fill up & make a smoke screen? I don't know if I have enough flow at WOT. Would the fluid that exits the fuel pump aperture be restricted by the manual ICV at WOT? Electronic manometer down the dipstick tube? Cheers, Iain.
  6. Hi, Now thinking longer oil filter, so I can cable tie it. Cheers, Iain
  7. Hi, I thought it was funny enough in a picture. LOL Quite small, hence the need for a straight drain back. I left the machined & perforated plate fitted to accelerate the lighter O2 molecules to increase combustion efficiency at all speeds and humidity levels. The sintered bronze deal would cost more than they sell for. Cheers, Iain.
  8. Hi, fitted an oil/air separator with drain back to the sump. I know it looks "spawn of gash". Thanks. I will order some HC safe silicone hose & attempt to get rid of all the inline fittings I used as could not find a long piece of 1/2" ID hose. I am taking the hopefully dry air + HC from the engine via the separator & piping it to the idle control valve. Filtered air to the engine is from the plenum and piped into the top of the rocker box in usual place. My idle speed has not changed so I guess I am taking the max HC + air mix possible at idle? Off idle I assume I have a lot of gas flow thru the engine? Too much and I need to fit a PCV valve somewhere? I have an idle control valve (3 wire & TSO) that I could fit to a spare inlet on the separator to control internal engine absolute pressure? Do I need to bother? Any thoughts? Cheers, Iain.
  9. Hi ZetecSpit, Hi if your friend has 3000 miles or whatever the maximum service interval that would be good. That will then be the last kit to give away as others are going. Check with your mate and let me know if he will like to do it. Cheers, Iain.
  10. Hi, <£40.00 delivered. Cheers, Iain. Opie Oils this weekend Only.
  11. Hi, Anybody running a mineral 20W50 oil in their daily Triumph? Interested in a miller oil check to compare? Cheers, Iain.
  12. Hi Phil, Thanks for the advice. I will follow it for the next sample. Cheers, Iain.
  13. Hi Phil, I drove the car around for about twenty miles. Parked outside the house and waited 45 mins. Pulled dipstick and placed a thin PE tube alongside to calibrate, so that the end of the tube would be into the sump oil when inserted into the dipstick tube. With a sterile syringe, I extracted 100mL? that was then injected into the sample bottle. When I removed the PE tube, it came out clean apart from engine oil contamination. Cheers, Iain.
  14. Hi Alan, Many thanks. I have one kit left. I will wait for 8 months or 6K_miles & retest. One result can be meaningless. Cheers, Iain.
  15. Hi, Engine analysis of 2K engine oil. Boron could be coolant. As I am not aware of an internal coolant leak. Boron I suspect is from the oil. Sending a clean sample would confirm. Not going to waste a kit to prove. Later sample on this oil should verify. I am off to post on the other site. Happy days, Iain.
  16. That's been an interesting read. Running 0W40 for a while. Expecting the Millers Oils, oil analysis report back soon. Disks need changing this year. Clonking controllable. The fourth and less than 30 Quid wideband needs fitting as gauge all over the place. New job. Cheers, Iain.
  17. Hi, while getting front tyres changed, I thought I would photo a pic of the callipers to confirm the new pads i wanted to order. The brakes work fine on the front. Maybe more pressure is required than 4 years ago. I noticed the disk was rather skinny and the groves were small. I'm sure the disk was thicker & it had grooves. Pad thickness is fine. The disk is wearing faster than pads? LOL? Cheers, Iain.
  18. Hi Alan, Thanks for the post. I have just found out my wheels are +28ET. That's after I changed the front tyres to 185's today. I had thought they were 35mm. Confused as to why they seem very close to the wheel arch. I have had 195's on the front before with clearance issues only at low v speed manoeuvring. Reason for tyre change was to make my scrub radius go negative. Because of what I read on the internet: https://www.racingaspirations.com/scrub-radius/ I then used this to calculate: https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=155-80-13X4.5ET22&amp;wheel2=185-55-15X6ET28&amp;fcl=12mm&amp;scl=40mm&amp;wcl=12mm&amp;sr=0mm If you scroll down its better than: https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=155&amp;aspect=80&amp;diameter=13&amp;wheelwidth=4.5&amp;offset=22&amp;width2=185&amp;aspect2=55&amp;wheel_size=15&amp;wheel_width=6&amp;offset2=28 The app I always used previously. I need to get ride height, castor, camber & tracking set. I need to measure my front rear track as well. KPI and scrub radius have become important. Going to 185/55/15's from 175/55/15's does feel better. 8mm tread on the T1R Toyos is far better than the 6mm tread I had from new on the Asian tyres. Passenger tyre was too worn in places, ie. outer edge. Cheers, Iain
  19. Hi Alan, It's Unfortunate we disagree. The original post was made in my search of KPI/SAI & castor information & some conflicting information. Cheers, Iain.
  20. Hi Alan, I disagree that you can not change the ET of a wheel. Machine the hub mounting surface of the wheel and you will increase the ET of that wheel when fitted. Add a spacer and you will reduce the ET of the wheel when fitted. That's appears to be a fact? .Cheers, Iain. PS. 122344, Thanks for the extra info.
  21. Hi Alan, Offset and ET are not the same thing? I understand that ET and backspacing are not the same but mathematically related. Cheers, Iain.
  22. Hi Alan, Just checked the link & is correct. He was saying that a spacer or adaptor in this case increases ET. It does not. It reduces it. The new offset is 5mm or 6mm not 43mm or 44mm. I spent hours last night checking and checking. Loads of wrong advice out there. Back space and ET are related. I will stick with the German metric ET. Whats an inch? LOL. http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Offset-to-Backspace.html Cheers, Iain.
  23. "The thinnest adapters they offer are 19mm thick, you have to factor that into the equation for the new wheel offset. I chose the 19mm adapters which puts the total offset at 43mm or 44mm depending upon which source you use for the original offset. I have seen both 24mm and 25mm listed. I ended up going to 16x7 wheels with a 4x100 bolt pattern and 42mm offset. Using 205/45R16 tires and on the 16x7 wheels............." Hi, read the above on: http://tr7triumph.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13458 Should the offset now be 5mm or 6mm? not 43mm or 44mm? This is of course assuming we are talking positive offset/ET.
  24. Hi, two pin solenoids are not. i'm not aware of a diode being built into the solenoid which would make it polarity sensitive. Cheers, Iain.
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