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About spitfire6

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    Just passed my test!

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    Siemens S7. FT102. ACU77L

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  1. Hi Nick, The sump has to come off, as need to install the new blueprinted oil pump & renew all the gaskets to be sure I fix the leaks, wherever they are coming from. Just ordered a 15/16" AF socket, Bottom end conversion gasket set, front crankshaft seal & a new steel lower seal block. All should cover the possible leak places. Will order a new flinger if it is missing. So, can I do this without an engine hoist or do I need to buy one? I hope not as cost and lack of lifting eyes will be a big FP. Cheers, Iain.
  2. Hi, I am looking for advice. My 140 quid all alloy Golf radiator has started leaking and I need to replace it. So, after removing the rad and fans, I have made it possible to fix the main problem; My oil leaking engine needs fixing. My works has a big carpark & I can see where I have parked and whether I parked straight in or reverse parked by the line of oil. When it rains & I park my car outside a shop; I see rainbow water when I return to my car. This has been going on for a few years & telling people that its marking its territory is not amusing anymore. The engine is a TR5 CP on a GT6 Mk2 chassis with a spitfire body. Because of this combination, I don’t think the Haynes or workshop manual will help concerning sump removal? · I have a new blueprinted oil pump & want to fit this as well. My Questions: · Is the crankshaft bolt 15/16” AF? · Front Pully; machine out any grooves? Fit a SKF sleeve? What size is the Pulley shaft? · Will I need to raise the engine? Can I do this without a hoist? Can I lift with a trolley jack @ the engine/gearbox interface? · Recommend supplier for bottom end gaskets and timing cover? · Recommend supplier for front crank shaft seal? · Recommend supplier for front metal engine front sealer block. · Recommend a timing chain tensioner kit? · Can I fit an oil temperature sensor in the sump without welding? The oil pressure is fine, but dropping the sump, so new oil pump it is. Didn’t think I would never need to be doing this as engine is only 20K old and original rebuilder not interested as over 9 years ago. Fair point. I run 0W40 oil & guess that doesn’t help with any worn parts. Comments and help gratefully accepted. Thanks, Iain.
  3. spitfire6

    New Engine update

    Hi, Of the five groups of engine oil, the one you are using is a group 1 according to their website. Good to see honesty in oil companies. It is cheap & bottom of the league as far as oil is concerned. It's an API SL rated oil and I suspect it wont last long under pressure as it's loaded with additives I suspect? If you feel 20W50 oil is good for you, maybe look at a better quality one? Group 3 or better? Source: https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups Please do not quote me on TSSC, as I have received an admin warning about my comments on oil.. Cheers, Iain.
  4. spitfire6

    New Engine update

    Hi, Plugs look textbook good in my opinion. If your running 20W50, you might consider a more modern xW40 oil? It will flow much better and lower the oil temperature. I would recommend Mobil 1 FS 0W40 that has better anti wear than any 20W50 or 20W60 out there. Interested in where and what size hole you find in the gallery for an oil temperature sensor post oil pump. Cheers, Iain.
  5. spitfire6


    Hi, Better late than never. Hope it all goes ticktock. Cheers,Iain.
  6. Hi, If you have a 4.2 and its working; Happy days. The 4.2 is used in many cars without problem. The 4.9 is used in many more with less problems. The 4.2 is used in a lot of aftermarket combos, as it is older and cheaper. If you buy a new sensor/combo; Avoid the 4.2. Cheers, Iain.
  7. Hi, Whatever you buy. Buy one with a Bosch™ LSU4.9 Sensor. Not a cheap 4.2. Cheers, Iain.
  8. Hi, I can't recommend Innovate LC1 or LC2. as mine both use the Bosch™ LSU4.2 Sensor. The sensor requires free air calibration and both did not last long. I use the AEM 30-4110 that utilises the superior Bosch™ LSU4.9 Sensor, that does not require free air calibration and will last much longer. The AEM comes with a gauge. An analogue output that is connected to my ECU for feedback. There is also a serial output to log results with Hyperterminal™ or similar. The AEM was recommended on here and I also recommend it. Cheers, Iain.
  9. spitfire6


    Hi, The Gunsung gauge is now longer for sale as it was really the unit I bought without the lead. Sorry. just realised my engine must have over 300 PSI, as the leads are marked as such. So I need to pay back the money that was refunded. My fault. Looks like I can safely disconnect the primary on coil pack and run on diesel. 40 MPG here i come. Cheers, Iain.
  10. spitfire6


    Hi, Full refund. Just bought a secondhand one of EBay. Anyone want to buy a Gunsung Hi-pressure compression tester? Universal fitting as it has two tubes with rubber on the ends. Nice red box that a member on here says is nice. £9 Only Ramadan special price. £10 delivery within 10 miles. Cheers, Iain.
  11. spitfire6


    Hi Alan, I paid less than 10 quid. If I throw away all the rubbish parts I will have nothing left. Just read the text on the box again; second line.. The check valve is crap. the second time I looked at the gauge and recorded the peak as the peak is higher than the stored reading. I will see if I can check the gauge tomorrow, but in any case, I have a delta between cylinders, which is not good. Still got my celestial flow meter and compressor to test. That came in a nice red bubble box too. Cheers, Iain.
  12. spitfire6


    Hi, The kit..
  13. spitfire6


    Hi, As you say, only way to tighten the deal is via the hose that looks like it's not meant to have any stress. Looks like its been crimped with a pair of donkey teeth. It lasted 5 threading's.. The push on rubber piece is also showing signs of wear! I will be asking for a refund, as if the new one lasts twice as long, it's still kak. A better quality one is required. Will take to work and see if the "quick release" fits anything and test the gauge. Hoping it reads low. Battery on charge & will test 6 to 1 tomorrow. Shoved some tin foil in the plug lead and pushed the connector back on. Gotta drive it while the sun is oot! Cheers, Iain.
  14. spitfire6


    Hi, So Tappet adjuster and cylinder pressure gauge kit arrived today. Engine tested 90 minutes after getting home. #1 149 PSI #2 140 PSI #3 135 PSI #4 135 PSI #5 130 PSI #6 unknown. Upon testing #6 the hose decided to break! Hose from kit no-good & broken. When I removed #3 plug the connect stayed on the plug; Magnacore lead broken. So low pressures, Gauge F***ed and spark plug lead kaput. Not feeling very happy at moment. Fuck. While preparing to email EBay and Magnacore. I see that I have push on rubber connectors in the engine pressure kit. Decide to test #6 and end up testing all again with help of mini me. Results (Peak): #1 180 #2 185 #3 173 #4 173 #5 173 #6 165 I am not going to retest with oil at the moment, but will move straight onto tappet adjustments after work when engine is cold. Will test cold compression, check tappets and then test compression again. Looking for a spare carbon lead now as it will be a shame not to go to work in the beast tomorrow. Will delay tappet adjust though... What started as a bad exercise, is not too bad? Here are some pictures. Which have ended up in the wrong placement. LOL Comments? Cheers, Iain.
  15. spitfire6


    Hi, Ohh poo. Engine as quite as f*** @ idle. I never hear the tappets.. Time for compression test followed by my DIY air flow tester. New alloy rad has started to leak and stranded me until RAC added a bottle of rad weld or similar. Can't find the compression tester so new one on order and looks like the blow by test first! I run 0w40 Ester oil, so was too focused on the increasing valve clearance. Which has never happened. Bought a new 20 quid rad to replace mine while I sort out with EBay seller. If its dry tomorrow will post air flow tests on the six. Thanks, Iain.