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daveygravey

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  1. Thanks John, what you have described is how I too think they should be positioned. Appreciate you taking the time to confirm, thank you sir. I just need an assistant now, ideally glamorous Regards, Dave
  2. I've looked at various diagrams but haven't found anything definitive that tells me where the steering rack clamp is located and confirmation of it's orientation. The rack mounts to chassis (shows below) and the clamp plate could mount above or below the mounting position. I would assume that they on the underside, but the diagrams are unclear and appear contradictory. Can anyone confirm the correct location and orientation of these plates? Thank you in advance. The clamp plate Steering Rack mounts on the chassis. Diagram #1 - showin
  3. ok you got me, so they are existent (see attached) and I know I can get refurbished ones but since this is required and engineering has moved on in the last 50 years I'm interested to know what options I have available or if anyone has had any success. The originals are also rather heavy .
  4. Another ask for advice/recommendations ... Front brakes - so my existing brakes are fairly non-existent which leads to to look at options for any improvement. From a search I've come across two options: 1. Canley's brake kit: https://www.canleyclassics.com/?product=big-brake-kit 2. Wilwood brake kits: https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=562_563_574&products_id=3989 https://www.motorsport-tools.com/wilwood-triumph-gt6-brake-kit-powerlite-4-pot-calipers-247mm-discs-130298.html One concerning item with 2. is the need to machine the hubs by
  5. Reference to standard springs on rimmers site: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-212425 shows 8.06"
  6. As light as I can make it (fibreglass bonnet and panels). Is the Spring ID 2.25" and standard spring length 8" fitted?
  7. I'm considering options for my front suspension (fast lightweight road car) and would appreciate some advice (is there a silver bullet?) Shock wise: I'm looking for flexibility in adjustment - stiffness and ride height also good quality Spring wise: There's not too many options, can anyone suggest rate, length and confirm the correct ID please? There is a good range of springs here: https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/suspension-steering/coilover-springs/faulkners-race-springs
  8. Thanks John, great to know - Yes CV conversion all the way, in fact I sourced my last one from Nick.
  9. Does anyone happen to know if the GT6 MK1 'Swing-axle' suspension can be converted to rotoflex. Presumably it needs the lower brackets welded to the chassis for the lower wishbones (available from canleys) but is it possible? Thanks, Dave
  10. I've got a GT6mk2 with a rather rusty windscreen frame. There is a rubber seal under the screen which looks to have helped with the rot and IMO looks a bit naff. I understand that this could be some anti-vibration mechanism but I also see the design changed on the GT6mk3 and later spitfires. I am considering doing away with the rubber seal and effectively bond the frame to scuttle where the wipers mount as I repair it. Any thoughts would be appreciated? Thanks, Dave
  11. Hi Nick, Thanks again for the very thorough reply, much appreciated. I'm going to try and strip it all down this week, I do have another box, so I will assess the clearances and compare. The layshaft 'dropping' should like 'fun' so I suspect it will take me some time. I'll let you know how I get on/run in to trouble. Cheers, Dave
  12. Hi Nick, Thanks for the quick reply - I've checked the input shaft and there is some play but it is minimal (1-2mm) so I think this is OK. I've done what you suggested and pushed the far left synchro baulk-ring against 4th gear (I am assuming the largish cog on the far left is 4th gear as the exploded diagram does not name it). Here is a picture with it pushed against it while 3rd gear was selected: I've also taken a shot of the synchro baulk-ring on the other side of the 3rd/4th gear selector for comparison while 4th gear was selected: As you can see the far left synchr
  13. I have a rather annoying gearbox crunch when changing from 3rd to 4th on my GT6 mkII Overdrive box. If I change gear fast it crunches If I change gear slowly it crunches If I change gear in a smooth 3rd->Neutral->4th motion it doesn't crunch I've got the gearbox out and on the bench. Basically as I am not too familiar with gearbox internals and would appreciat some help regarding what would be making it crunch. Visually looking at the box everything looks ok, but I suspect there is some wear? I am guessing that it could be the Synchro Rings at fault but would like to know
  14. I have a good non-overdrive gearbox and a not so good overdrive gearbox. As the title suggests, I am wondering if it's possible to move the internals from a non-overdrive gearbox into an overdrive box? Thanks for thoughts in advance. Dave
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