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TIMSGT6 X 5

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About TIMSGT6 X 5

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    Fast Driver!

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    Male
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    Outdoors, cooking, racing , mechanics,poker
  1. John, That is a flux capacitor, I would be wary of going 88MPH, you'll never know when you'll end up. A bearing puller I made to remove the bearings from GT6 transmissions Not a tool especially but using tools in a way they were not meant to be used. A lathe steady mounted on a milling machine bed, holding the ram of a 7" X 6 foot long hydraulic cylinder, the eye end in a rotary table chuck, milling a bevel all around the welded cap to separate it from the cylinder, by hand feed with a wrench on the jaws of the chuck. It was slow but successful, saved my customer $8,500 for a new one. Cheers Tim
  2. Refurbishing Lucas Injectors

    Thanks Nick, is it okay to ease them back in with a spot of vasoline (petroleum jelly)? Awesome hand forming on the metal for the GT6 project, I seem to recall you came across some hand rollers and shapers and such , you are putting them to good use. Cheers Tim
  3. Has anyone had the Lucas PI Injectors apart and replaced the Viton o rings? I have a set that were from Steve Attenboroughs GT6, GT overlooked redoing them when he did the pump and metering unit some time back. Shipping them back to the UK for refurbishment is not practical cost wise plus there are 2 that are the threaded in types and 4 push types, likely not a good idea trying to avoid core charges with mismatched items. I have them apart, is it okay to just replace the o rings leaving the spring settings alone? Cheers Tim
  4. I have received one of my Lucas PI systems, sent fully refurbished. Some serious delays but the items look new, I thought the fuel pump was a reproduction it looked so good. So on to installing and learning a new process. While there is another setup, minus a few injectors and maybe a PRV, left with the rebuilder I wont be pursuing a rebuild on it. I had thought of using the manifold to go EFI but it seems a shame to break up a system that someone else may need for a restoration. It appears to be a CR from a 2.5 Saloon. I am leaving it with the rebuilder to market it where he sees fit. Cheers Tim
  5. Speaking Of Gt6 Gearboxes

    Well the 4th time was the charm, slid in effortlessly, everything rolling as it should. Some pics of the offending mismatched helixes, not sure what year the change was made, I have 5 KC boxes and the 1 KF that was in a late 69 I have. I'm not sure what is in my MK111, haven't looked as yet and have another od and transmission on its way from a MK11. Cheers Tim
  6. Speaking Of Gt6 Gearboxes

    A little heads up on that , before you reassemble the box with the newly matched up 3rd gear it would behoove you to check 4th gear as well. BTW 4th gear is different as well. Lets hope the 4th time is the charm. Cheers Tim
  7. Speaking Of Gt6 Gearboxes

    Oops, mixed in a 3rd gear from the KF, 5 degree difference in helix angle, reflush the casing ,re-measure the float clearances and jam it all back together.
  8. Speaking Of Gt6 Gearboxes

    Still not working out, everything actually appears to be in order, The cluster gear I have in there should be able to mesh, it is a slightly smaller diameter and hopefully pitch diameter on the 4th. There may be a difference on the 3rd mesh but still very close to the other 2 clusters I have. Just staying shy by about .050 of lining up to the countershaft and bores. Any thing that can be holding it up? Almost like it may be rocking on the 2nd or 3rd gear.
  9. Speaking Of Gt6 Gearboxes

    Having waited on some internal parts from Rimmer bros I've finally came to the final assembly of 1 transmission. Lots of good guidance and tips and I have a mainshaft assembled, all floats and clearances in spec, synchros tested for tensile pull, cluster gear in and checked for float, appropriately shimmed under the thrust washer and dropped for the mainshaft to be loaded. made up a few tools to aid in the assembly, glued the split thrust washers for first gear, assembled 3 and 2 and a new circlip and bushes. pressed in the new case bearing, end floats ok on first gear, press in the input and bearing ,all good. Now for the cluster gear, got it stringed to help maneuver it and cannot get it to line up, just shy like it is a bit too big to mesh and line up with the bores for the shaft. Moral of the story is do not mix up cluster shafts from a KC box into a KF box, .042" difference on 4Th gear on the cluster, and it was a pain loading all 50 of those new rollers in there. Out it all comes and start over again, tomorrow cause I'm not going to deal with it tonight. Cheers Tim
  10. Some very interesting stuff to peruse, thanks guys. There really aren't many restrictions other than engine size, maintaining original body panels and chassis dimensions and stating naturally aspirated. Air dams of some sort would be needed to hold it down, lowering is fine, pushing it with another vehicle to start is ok. The exterior cant be altered for streamlining, as in removing the visor like airdam above the windshield. Underbody streamlining is okay, anything that increases safety is encouraged. It isn't so much a class of vehicle other than being a 2 seat import that is basically stock, class G/G GT( 2000CC / Gas 2 seat grand touring). At El Mirage the class is set at 138MPH for the time being, not many people bother with it. El mirage has plenty of dates to compete in, not quite the prestige of Bonneville but the same end result, Both are a long haul, in the 2000 Mile range one way, don't want to forget anything and have to go back to retrieve it. A car set up for those conditions would be difficult to drive on the street regardless of Brownie points,125 gallons of diesel, one way @ $3 per gallon for my tow vehicle Fuel for the car must be purchased on site but high octane @100 is available. If only I had a friend like Steve Smith nearby, or just borrow one of his GT6s. Cheers Tim That highly modified altered is scary, maintains an original back half but anything else goes, 287MPH IIRC. No, just No, too fast, 150MPH is too fast for me in a stock GT6.
  11. If not this year in 2018 I intend to field a purpose built GT6 in the GT 2Liter category for stock production imported 2 passenger vehicles. While the speed record is established far beyond my comfort zone,165MPH Mazda MX5, I am at least trying to establish an official, top speed for an essentially stock GT6. The main criteria: Staying naturally aspirated, as in no turbo or supercharger or EFI Maintaining original displacement. There is an opportunity to stay in the "family" of engines but modifying to go over 165 is not in the cards. Maintaining all original body panels, no stream lining, such as the overhang from windshield to roof alterations. Interior fixments are not a concern, It can be stripped and a cage installed, weight is not a concern, more is better to keep the car in a straight line and attached to the ground via the tires. Engine mods including cams and head work are allowed, no point in Nitrous, the final mile is averaged for speed. Conditions are extreme, heat, thinner air and a loose resistant surface. A few of us have been brave?foolish enough to take our street machines to the limit, at established factory limits around 107MPH I would like to see 130MPH Experience, suggestions to getting there? Cheers Tim
  12. Imagine doing that on a gravel road and you will be close to what the Salt Flats offers. There is a point where HP cannot overcome the resistance and it is quite low. I don't know if the final drive ratio dictates most efficiency or if it doesn't really matter where the ratio comes from, a tall gear from the trans/ OD and say a 4:11rear or straight 1:1 from trans and a 3:27 diff. Presumably a combo that allows the engine to rev high at its peak output and creeping up to a higher speed with overdrive, maybe staying in 3rd gear with OD Considering someone last year managed an average top speed of 124MPH in a MG Midget with 1200cc means it can be done. Sounds like a new topic to me, probably a few hooligans here have flouted the law and have some experience in speed attainment.
  13. It is definitely a chess match with power bands and about 4 other major factors when the goal is to top out. My current street car will respond well enough with its configuration, about 2800 RPM @ 75MPH. Going flat out brings up the limitations, particularly on salt, high altitude, high desert heat. Just from driving my current engine it hits a wall around 5 grand , and takes a long haul to get there. The course for my intended division, production GT 2 liter , is limited to 3 miles, the last mile is averaged for the speed. so you need to be near top end by 2 miles. The near stock engine I have now, run on pavement, is topping out around 105 -110. The only solution is going to be more HP, delivered , at an RPM close to what realistic top end is expected. There is no use of a cam peaking at 6000RPM when the wind resistance and other factors won't allow that speed to be obtained with or without an overdrive. It may be a case of picking a goal speed and matching things up to suit that. Just getting to Bonneville is expensive enough and not getting near a goal. There is no opportunity to tune under the conditions there, or see if these engines are capable of pushing near 130 mph with about 150HP and added weight. Getting to the HP again shifts the power band around, has anyone played in that arena before? Cheers Tim
  14. Still waiting, after the last promise date of October, I need someone to knock on his door and rattle his cage, this is really sad.
  15. Jaguar In Russia

    I would suspect he is a much better driver than that, plus the car is too new.
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