RK

I forgot the most obvious information: Cars are located in Germany, Mönchengladbach. Prices need to negotiated, Talk to me, get more detail, make an offer thx RK

And some pictures of the twins:

Everything has to go -- it is time to depart from all my Triumph Spitfire related stuff -- everything must go! Cars and spareparts! Streetcar: Vermillion red. Very honest car, never got frame off restored, still lots of original paint. LHD. First registered in 1980. 5" Steel rims and 5.5" Revos. Overdrive on a sports-gearbox (Adopted GT6 gearbox from Canley). Good brakes. Engine with 90hp on SU (tuned on RR, with special adopted needles, good cylinder head, roller rockers, 280° cam). Factory Hardtop, good hood (5 years old), small and big tonneau. Racecar: Carfully built car, a lot faster than the driver, I never had the balls to really take it to the limit. Topspeed in SPA > 200km/h. Bodywork: Nearly vermillion red (modern paint, old color recipe no longer available). Rare Pritchard and Williams fastback hardtop. 2 Sparco race seats. lowered seat pan on driver side. GRP bonnet. Alloy fuel cell. GRP doors. Rollcage with FIA papers, fully working electrics, including lights, indicators, etc. so it might be interesting for Rally as well. About 690kg. Engine and Gearbox engine +140HP on RR tuned as a result of careful tuning with Weber 45DCOE on modified TT intakes, custom header and exhaust with Burns collectors, custom cam grind from ARP, airbox with cold air intake fuelsystem complete with Dash06 connections, BMW alloy cooler, big oil cooler, Canley close ratio gearbox with overdrive, alloy front and endplate, baffeled sump Suspension rear radius arms with ballends, front stabilizer with ballends, spacer block in the rear, 4.22 rear axle, alloy diff ousing, Quaiffe LSD, improved summer bros. rear axles, GT6 front hubs (alloy) and brakes, comes with BWA rims and Revos (both 6") and a set of steel diamond racing wheels, long wheel studs, adjustable shocks, Race Specific Spares: GRP rear fenders (new), GRP trunk rear panel, superfinished APT cam with followers, facet fuel pump, new alloy flywheel, 4 speed close ratio box, 2nd engine, with similar specs A nice small light trailer (single axle) for transport, a lot of spares from a rolling chassis over a new spares like bearings and ignition parts, dizzies, engine blocks, cranks, rods, complete engine, doors and glass, SU carbs, Weber carbs, Weber intakes long and short, pair of rear halfshafts with brakes, steerings columns, hood frames, ... Everything must go. Make an offer for the whole package or parts of it, or enquire what you are interested in! More pictures available PM via this forum

finally I managed to get some things fixed on the racer: - The silencer is modified to fit and in place. A custom big box (oval with 262x116 mm, with 350mm length to fit under the trunk) with some additional tweaks. I hope it meets Zandvoort noise restrictions without further mods required. - I switched from rubber engine mounts to PU engine mounts. Shore 70. Not much engine movement left at the moment. I'm curious how long they will last or if the metal-PU bonding will detach. The next step: doing a nice conversion for the front coilovers to shorter shocks so I'm not constantly running on the bump stops...

So, I'm going to start blogging about spitfire tweaking. I've been pretty busy last year with non-car related stuff (read: the business that pays my rent), so no racing, no fiddling, and not mutch Spitfire at all. Now I'm going to clean up the garage, reload the starter batteries, wipe the dust from the cars, and pick up again the work where I stopped: get a new TÃœV for the road car, build a new exhaust for the racer, and get the front suspension sorted: new dampers, modify the a-arms to get track width and camber right. Will I be racing this year? I have no clue yet, but since a slightly changed business is even more time consuming than ever, I'm really not sure about it. But I descided to create no pressure for this, fine if I can make it happen, but I'm not going to sacrifice mental health for it, or risk to appear at the track with a poorly prepped car, that happened to often in 2009 to me. I'm not going to make that mistake again -- too expensive for too little fun. I will try to keep this updated with results and pictures when I have some results to present. Have fun, Reinald

Well, adjustable is out of scope due to regs. Shortening the a-arms might already be arguable, but since all TR4s do it, I can safely assume that it is accepted. Anybody here with substatial measurements already or a modeled front suspension? thx, Reinald

Hi Folks, long time, no see, but I'm still alive and back with a question: we are on the limit with our front track widths (thanks to our scruteneering nazis), so instead of shimming massively to get the desired negative camber (and adding about an inch to the track width) I would like to shorten the upper A-arms a bit to give a basic camber setting of -2° without shims on the lower A arms. My questions: - maybe somebody carried out such a mod already and can give me a hint how much I need to cut out there? half an inch? an inch? - does somebody have a model with the length and pivot points so we could do some evaluation with paper and calculater to check how much it needs to be? - I would imagine that this mod will give a more progressive camber change when under cornering load (different ratio of upper and lower a-arms), and I would imagine that that would actually help on the track. Any opinions/experiences on that? thx for any input, Reinald

that ad looks 100% right, thank you for that hint. I will dig a bit further, Reinald

Hi Folks, I've got a set of 5.5x13 Cobra Supaslot Alloys on my shelf. Since german TÜV is always picky about aftermarket wheels, I'm trying to get some papers for that wheels. Always the first place to ask is the manufacturer, if it still exists. Does anybody here have a clue about the manufacturer of this Cobra Wheels? thanks, Reinald

Hi, I actually think we are wasting so much money on our engines, that PTFE coating to the bearings adds just a very small amount to the overall budget. I think that it actually helps when oils supply is on the edge of beeing insufficient (i.e. long, fast, lefthand corners, dry startup). Even though I've not yet lost an engine on bearing failure, be it with coated or uncoated, I think it helps a little bit. Reinald

You're a fake, arent't you? You get what you pay for. For small money you can get pressed camel muck as type 14 or type 16 brake pads. I'm shure they sell the same pressed camel muck for a little more as larger pads for 6pot brembo or AP calipers. You converted your rear end to subaru diff, converted the engine to a 180hp twin cam and now whining about some 90UKP for a set of decent pads? Makes me giggle, somehow. Reinald

Actually, I would go for a Toyota MR2 AW11. - 2 seater - excellent 1600 16v engine with update options (including 20V heads and variable cam timing, 45mm individual throttle bodies, and everything...) - Lotus inspired suspension with available updates - Targa Roof available - unique 80th design I like it :-) Reinald

Hi Neil, the TR6 / GT6 heads do not suffer from valve-shrouding to the extend the Spitfire heads do, especially when you use big valves. I think you can't compare that. Good result for your race engine, congrats! What's the displacement? Reinald

Hi Folks, I stumbled over a picture I took some years ago on a slightly modified head. At the time I took the picture it ran just a few hours. It is showing pretty clear, where you have high gas speeds. Draw your own conclusions :-) Reinald