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About flatter4

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    Just passed my test!

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  1. Thanks guys, I'll have a look in my bolt tin, I may have one from a Herald I owned many decades ago
  2. The sleeve and bolt are standard, but I much prefer your shouldered bolt. Where did it come from? Was it a special you made up, or something I can buy ready made (you called it 'standard'; standard for what?). ...and if ready made do you have any dimensions? Length and diameter of shoulder are key. Thanks for the replies.
  3. Or should I just go for the Gaz units that the TSSC sell and claim are the only ones with the correct lengths?
  4. Could any / all advise on rear dampers for a GT6 with rotoflex - and chassis extension brackets. I'd decided to go for Koni, normal would be 80/1389, but in removing the old leaking SPAX units, I realised the top mount sleeve was designed for assembly only, disassembly was a complete arse and needed considerable force and bodgery to get an only slightly rusty sleeve out (there is nowhere to push / drift the sleeve from the 'blank' end - left hand side in image that I'll try and attach....). So questions: >> Is there a recognised mod to make disassembly easier? I was going to file a small notch in the left hand retaining part of the bracket to allow a small punch to access the end of the sleeve. >> GT in the messages above promotes using the Koni 80/1717. This looks to be from a Mini. Is the selection of this damper to replace the upper mount with a conventional bush (easier to dismantle)? Or... >> Is the 80/1717 selected for it's damping characteristic? I've Emailed Koni and received the following reply: The size of the two dampers is fairly similar, as are the mounting points, my concern with your proposal of fitting them on the GT6 is that they are much softer in both bump and rebound force, Rebound can be adjusted up, but the bump force is less than half of what is specified for the GT6, and I doubt they would give the right amount of damping control. Part No Open Closed Bump Rebound 80-1389 316mm 246mm 450nm 950nm 80-1717 296mm 218mm 200nm 700nm
  5. Great reference, thanks. Are you sure the output shaft bearings should be C3? I have just replaced mine, and used the same as removed. The diff was put together by John Kipping about 25 years ago. A great source for bearings is "Simply Bearings". Great choice; prices and super fast delivery (don't bother with express delivery as the standard free delivery comes next day!).
  6. That looks gorgeous. If only it were an estate..... I had a holiday in Holland over the summer, in and near the water. Man, those Dutch look after their old stuff. There were 80 year old tug boats that looked brand new, and the most beautiful of yachts; all immaculate. Saw a few 80's cars too, that were in fantastic condition.
  7. Oh yeah! Bet it rots fuel pipes! I need some 5/16" sae 'r14 pipe. Phoned the local suppliers who were hopeless. I see Moss sell the gates barricade stuff. Think I'll order from them (unless anyone has a better source that uses genuine suppliers?). Cheers all,. Will.
  8. .... Oh, and once carbon fuels are banned I'll make a still and brew some alcohol fuel to get my fix of internal combustion engines
  9. Glad you don't feel got at Hamish, it was not my intent to make it personal! I see it like the airline compensation thing. I fly for work, and see many delays. Most of the time I consider that par for the course, but on the occasion Lufthansa gave very late notification, and I had to drive 3 hours across Austria to catch an alternative flight (and made it just in time with no time for a calming drink); they owed me. The £200 compo bought me plus wife dinner, and some of the remainder went to my choice of good a good cause. I have no guilt in driving older cars. In reality my GT6 emits more noxious gas in 10 minutes of running than 10 emissions cheating VW's running for an hour each. We are improving things (go to London, spend the day, and relish the fact that you're not coughing up black crap for the next 24 hours as proof). But the manufacturers have a corporate responsibility they need to take seriously. It's not a game..... Typed on phone, so sorry for grammar and speelling.......
  10. Nick, your points encompass the situation in respect of the class action well. I believe they are all ambulance chasers. However, I have been disgusted by VW's behavior. The EPA in the states are known to take this really seriously and issue very substantial fines wherever they can. Their regulations even require manufacturers to comply with the word and the spirit of the regulations. There is plenty of precedent. The US truck engine manufacturers were all found to be cheating, and those with a US business entity were given massive fines, and asked to introduce the next Tier of emissions reduction technologies early (this is a brief summary, but search "consent decree US highway truck" for more.... https://www.dieselnet.com/news/2001/06epa.php) Why did VW think they could get away with it? They deserve massive fines from the governments of all territories they sold these engines into - exceeding the profits they made from the vehicle sales. Unfortunately the European VCA is a toothless puppy compared to the EPA, so I'm not sure they have the gumption to do anything about it. ...yes others have cheated, and the German manufacturers (are known to...?) collude on such matters. Mitsubishi over inflating their tyres is really not in the same league though....!
  11. BMW sixes are glorious. I have a 3 litre petrol in a 1 series. It is fantastic. Smooth (you get to the red line and think "how the hell did that happen, can't I have a couple of thousand more revs...."), and damned powerful - traction control works overtime in the wet if you're not feather light on the throttle! Vanos is a hoot too, from 4500 rpm it starts to take off. It would be a great engine for a Triumph, but I like the approach of refining and tweaking what's there rather than completely changing it (but I approve of those who want to make more radical changes). I think the engine code for this BMW 6 is N52, it's got no turbos, aluminium block and about 270Hp. Not sure how heavy it is, but can't be more than the Triumph lump? Will.
  12. Hi All (especially Nick.....), I'm going to be converting to CV shafts on my Rotoflex GT6. I've been reading all I can to make sure I make the best choice. Options seem to be: - Nick's conversion. Needs uprights machining, and parts from (scrap) cars. Looks to be strong and robust though - Canley Classics. No longer available, but thought of as a strong solution using 1500 FWD parts - Classic Driving Developments (also looks to be the one sold by TSSC?). Visibly identifiable by the large inner CV joint boot - Rimmer Brothers (also looks to be the one sold by Jigsaw?). Visibly identifiable by the small inner CV joint boot - Others???? My current thinking is to go with the Rimmer Brothers parts, as it should be bolt-on. If I take on Nick's conversion I'll still be sourcing parts in 3 years time (as I know what I'm like.....). Nick - I've seen you post about the weakness on these designs, and your notes re. shimming (http://www.shadetreegarage.co.uk/Flange Mods.htm#Flange). What was the failure you've made reference to people experiencing? Was it due to the CV shaft chamfer, or due to the inner bearing moving on the hub shaft (it shouldn't do as there is no significant axial force...). Can't the end of the CV shaft be machined to remove the radius and allow the standard shimming? Is there anything else I'm missing (or anything to convince me that I should follow your route)? Do you have any parts available? Thanks, Will.
  13. .... arrrrh, that reminds me. I need to bleed the brakes on my son's bicycle. Lots online about this but the system is stated as using a mineral fluid, so I was going to use normal automotive DoT 4 or DoT 5.1 - rather than buying expensive bike specific stuff. What do you all think......?
  14. ..... I had reason the other day to use a syringe to reverse bleed a go kart system. It worked fantastically. The large volume positive displacement of the (100 ml) syringe purged all the air from the system. Simply open the bleed nipple with the syringe attached, and push the fluid backwards. Of course you need to keep emptying the master cylinder....... It's very satisfying watching the bubbles come through into the master cylinder reservoir.... I think the problem on many bikes / go karts is that the displacement of the master cylinder is too small to push anything through.
  15. This is probably a bit late for you Paul, but here it is anyway. - As posted above, SG is different, so the mineral oil will sink to the bottom. - The two types of fluid don't easily mix (maybe they will with time / shaking / centrifuge....). - There may be a tendency for the seals to swell slightly differently with the 'other' fluid. This is why there can be leaks. This will be a long term effect (months). - Bleed through plenty of fresh fluid and don't worry about it. Cheers, Will.
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