Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Donations

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Martin

  • Rank
    Fast Driver!

Profile Information

  • Gender
  1. TR3a hill climb tyres

    I splashed out the money for Avon CR6ZZ last year for my GT6. Should be available in 185 70 15. Bloody expensive, But they are GREAT, and even work in wet. Martin
  2. @ Nick: yes it is still rust free
  3. Unfortunately all, really all mechanical parts gone. They where removed as needed. But this is relatively easy to replace. And I will go for fast road spec (aiming at 100 -110 horses) and not again full race. (I had 45 DCOE, 12.3 compression rate and 324 degree cam, usable power band 4.000 - 9.000 rpm). Two 40 DCOE already ebayed in UK and with a mate in England whom I will visit around February 11th Car is only the Body, dash, roll cage. BUT WHAT IS MORE IMPORTANT IN GERMANY: WITH THE OLD BUT VALID CAR DOCUMENTS And I got the car road legal in the 70ies / 80ies. All changes registered in the car documents (power increase, race seats, vented discs, DCOE´s, roll Cage, wide rims, lowered Suspension, two different sport exhausts, ...) If you came to our TÜV today whith such a car, I think the inspector would get a heart attack and I got shot. Fortunately I know people with hydraulic body jigs. And I know someone who has the Polo1 special tool for straightening (in german : Richtsatz) which has to be used on that jig. Real challenge (costs) are the body parts. front wing, >250 EUR, front valance >450 EUR, if you can get one, Martin
  4. Yes I will remove the bonnet to get the engine in, but before installing the engine I did some body alignment. The last time I had the Spitfire engine out, I did it with the bonnet still on the car. But the 6 cyl lump ...... Martin
  5. On wheels. Now what next? Doors or engine?
  6. Some days ago we picked it up. This will be a challenge. It does not look that bad, but the problem is that the impact from the accidend is really severe and very tricky to repair. The other car came from the right and the complete turret where the damper is mounted folded to the inside and even worse angled down as the roll cage was extended to the turret and acted as a kind of fixed point. Thus beside my Herald Estate resto I will start looking for Polo1 / Audi 50 parts. Anyone surplus of wings and a front valance ............ and I will remove these ugly beaten out wheel arches
  7. Now the update. In early summer on a meeting of out Motor Sports Club a mate said that he thinks that he had seen a roof of a white Polo at someones workshop which could be my old one. I said no, car had a severe accident beyond repair. To cut a long story short, I sarted to investigate, car passed through several hands, mainly for parts and then was tucked away for body parts, as Polo1 parts are difficult to get and rust free Polos are like hens teeth. This how I found it. And YES it was MY OLD CAR. All the memories came back, so I bought it.
  8. Those were the days of thunder for the poor people. Missing cubic inches compensated by mania, very very light car and power. This VW Polo was built 1977. My brother bought it 1978 and I got it 1980. Soon I started racing and from 1983 - 1988 and drove a lot. Preferably Nürburgring. Incl 24 h. Yes with success. 2004 I sold the car to a best friend who still was racing and had smashed his Polo. He had a severe accident in 2006 and for me the car was gone, scrapped, .... ??? So only memories left.
  9. Christmas Time

    ............ a plasma cutter is nice Martin
  10. Health.....

    Take Care and get well soon. Martin
  11. Flanges were o.k., I hope it will not leak. Can tell in 1? 2? years from now. Preparations for the rear end done. But this week on business trip and then 2 weeks holiday
  12. Took the screen out, needed only 5 minutes. Measured the depth of the seat where the screen sits. It varies between 19 and 16 mm. Therefore it cannot sit properly, Top LH Corner 16mm, midle a pillar RH 19 mm. . Mounted the screen again. Before inserting the finisher strip I used a lot of sealant and then inserted the finisher with the recently invented knee technology.
  13. I filled the gap wth a foam sponge cord. Yesterday evening I inserted the Chrome finisher. It was a sod. I needed THREE hours to get it into the rubber seal. With the feet on the bulkhead, knee pressing a cork block against the finisher and mm by mm opening the groove in the rubber seal with a screwdriver then pushing the finisher in. I was soaked with sweat. All my fingers are aching today. Getting old. No not getting, I am.
  14. put the front window (Bastuck) into the car with a (James Paddock) seal. There was a gap at the RH A pillar (complete length).
  15. Yes vertical link Rotoflex. You see nicely where the PO left the marks of the hacksaw. I milled it down to 74,5mm width. The narrow ones I measured where between 74,1 and 75,3mm. Ineresting that the thick washer is not shown in any of the parts catalogues. I have 4 left from dismantled vertical links. Thickness 3,22 ... 3,35 mm. Martin