Jump to content

dggt6

Members
  • Content count

    197
  • Donations

    $0.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About dggt6

  • Rank
    Just passed my test!
  1. AFR Reading

    Hi Darren, I bought a O2 sensor from 14point7 and it didn't read correctly, a bit like yours but consistently. Sent it back but he said it was OK. On rewiring I realised that I had misread/remembered the wiring diagram. Connected it up the way the diagram said (instead of with the colours I thought should be positive and negative) and she has worked well ever since! Just saying.......... (I am often pretty stupid at electrickery) Cheers, Doug
  2. Knock Knock

    Thanks Iain, did you get anything out of that article? Well I hoped to have some great news to share but I don't. Acquired 2 of the other type knock sensors (Commodore V6 3.8 engine) that should go with the module I bought. Tapping them did give a few more millivolts than the bosch style sensor but only enough to to make the module drop its voltage from 9.9 to about 8.5v I removed the water drain plug/cock from the side of the block and screwed the sensor in. Tapping the sensor/block didn't show anything in Tunerstudio. So I fired the engine up. Again nothing in Tunerstudio. I am pretty sure I have tried every combination of every setting in the TS knock sensor settings! (THRICE!!!) Analogue/on.off, Aggressive/safe, Knock count 1,2,3,10, Knock input threshold 0,1,10,90, 100. @#&%^$#@$%$!!!^%(*&^%%%$#@!!! I tried disconnecting the fuel pump to make the engine ping, advanced the timing through the ignition table and leaned of the fuel table out but no knock detected. The best I got was when the Knock Retard Gauge read 8 degrees, the engine was running poorly (12-8= 4 degrees) but this was a SET amount. It did not alter with tapping, it just stayed at the max retard amount in the settings. Might go back to the MS forum and ask what they expect the module to do and what MS is expecting it to do. Don't hold your breath for an answer on this subject!!!! Cheers, Doug
  3. Knock Knock

    Hi Iain, yes the module I got cheap on EBAY is #16236469 and yes it is supposed to trigger the 12V to drop (to zero?) so the MS can register a knock. I can read an AC voltage from my AUDI 030905377C sensor of about 0.040V. When I tap the sensor, I read up to 0.200V, so I assume the piezo crystals are working. Curiously once the 2 wires from the sensor are connected to the module I can only read about 0.003V and tapping the sensor only generates about 0.005V. This would appear to be way too low to make the module trigger the voltage drop. I can't find anything on the net that gives the triggering AC voltage of these modules. Don't know how to produce 0.5VAC to simulate a knock signal. Damn tempted to crack open the module and have a look inside but I bet it will be drowned in plastic. Cheers, Doug
  4. Knock Knock

    Hi Nick and Craig, I had DIY Autotune assemble and install my MSII with a knock sensor port and an extra coolant sensor. I have checked Tunerstudio and the only "dampening" is between Disabled, Safe Mode & Aggressive Mode. (I am always in "aggressive mode" when Megasquirting I have watched videos of hitting the sensor to get AC voltage and I get the same, I ground the wire to MS and Tunerstudio indicates a knock so I guess it must be that the module is not receiving/converting the sensor signal correctly. I plan to get a single wire sensor and try again. I guess I am more surprised that over this forum, the CT Forum and the MSII forum, no one has reported trying(and failing) or success. Will let you know how I get on...... Nice work on the web site Craig. Smooth, clean and pristine like your GT6!!! Cheers, Doug
  5. Greetings Gents, Has anyone had any success in making a bosch 2 wire knock sensor (or single wire) work with a GM knock module and a MS2? I have asked around a lot on other forums but it would appear that no one has has either tackled it or had success?? Thanks, Doug
  6. Hi Josh, glad you have found the article interesting. From where I sit it has been excruciatingly painful!! The pump location started as a wishful thought that the original mechanical pump could supply the fuel to the high pressure pump, hence the location on the shocker tower. This position also solved the problem of where to put an "out of tank" pump in the boot space of my GT6 and saved a few dollars using normal pressure fuel hose from the tank to engine bay. With 20/20 hindsight this is probably where it all fell apart, at the beginning!!!!! I agree that the engine bay heat may/can effect the pump but given that there are about 14 high pressure hose joins on the fuel rail and injectors sitting above the exhaust manifold, one more on the fuel pump doesn't really matter. The fuel pump position is also in a direct uninterrupted line from the grille opening for fresh air when moving. I have been playing with all sorts of variations trying to eliminate the bubbles of just late and the most interesting is the the high pressure pump does seem to suck quite well in this position. For the time being I have settled with a flex line from the tank into an online fuel filter then into the pump. I have given up on a one way valve, swirl pot and CAV filter. I have spent the last 6 months putting an O/Drive box in (and an unexpected crank rebuild and clutch replacement) and I just wanna get out and try this new box!!!!!!!!! Craig, don't worry about the clear pipe, when I am ready to forget about the bubbles it will be going!!!!!! Cheers, Doug
  7. Crank Installed Backwards?

    SOLVED!!! It was "the old EYE DEE 10 T " problem. More commonly known as the IDIOT symptom. The cam and crank sprockets were aligned, but 180 degrees out (backwards?). I was pedantic about re-aligning the sprockets but totally forgot to check which part of the 4 stroke cycle the cam was on. Thank you everyone for your assistance. Now back to fitting the O/D gearbox installation project that started all this 7 months ago!!!!!!
  8. Crank Installed Backwards?

    OK. I am gunna start from scratch and bugger the timing marks/dots. With the timing chain off, I have valves 11 and 12 rocking and I have measured the lift and they are as equal as I can get them with a vernier caliper. I have rotated the crank and got as close as I can with No.1 piston at the top. Now just "slip" the chain back on and job done! Right? Cheers, Doug
  9. Crank Installed Backwards?

    Thanks Alan, I don't know I dun it but I think I somehow I installed the crank out of wack. I thought I had all the timing marks lined up???? I didn't remove the cam from the engine (or move/rotate it I thought). Is it just a matter of taking the timing sprockets off, rotating the crank 1 (or is it 1/2?) revolution then reassemble? Cheers, Doug
  10. Crank Installed Backwards?

    Many thanks Nick and John for your continued support of forum members. Yes GT6 with 2500 motor that was running quite well on MS2 with EDIS as I drove it into the garage to upgrade to an O/drive box. A new clutch and thrust washers and reground crank later, the engine goes "pop" not "broooom"! "the exhaust valve opens at the bottom" that's what I thought. As I am watching No.1 piston come up, the exhaust valve starts opening and remains open as the piston passes TDC and travels back down. The exhaust valve closes when the piston is a long way down the cylinder. (the exhaust valve is the 1st valve, closest to the radiator?) The engine does sound "funny" when cranking but I have a hi torque starter that I am not quite used to yet.. I did notice that the engine was spinning nice and quick without the spark plugs in and I was patting myself on the back that the crank reassembly must have been good. However I also noticed that when I was cranking the engine WITH the plugs in (no fuel ) it seemed to spin almost as fast when there was no compression(no plugs). Yes the Ford coil packs have given me a HUGE amount of grief also. My original pack had the 4 pin plug pin-out different to what was shown everywhere else on the internet. The new VDO pack seemed to be a third variation on position of the 4 pin plug as well as the pin out order. So far I have not found the pack firing order of the VDO but the other 2 packs fired in the ACB order. I have assumed the VDO follows this sequence and have used the timing light to check that the packs are firing in that order at 60 degrees around the crank pulley. Why do I get this feeling that the engine will have to come out again!!!!!!! Cheers, Doug
  11. Is there any part of the 4 stroke engine cycle that sees the piston going down when the exhaust valve is open? I have had my crank reground and I have refitted it back into the engine without moving the camshaft (or so I believe). I believe I have refitted the sprockets the same way, aligning up the same marks. (I took photos) On trying to start the car it was "backfiring" through the inlet and blowing off the plenum. (It looked nice at night time with little blue and yellow flames!!) The car is on MS2 with EDIS6 and after replacing the coil pack, I realised the EDIS module was crook. With a good 2nd hand EDIS I an still getting back firing. I have checked VR alignment with the trigger wheel and the timing light is firing at 10BTDC on the pulley. In desperation I have whipped the rocker cover off to check the valve positions and the No.1 spark plug out to check the piston travel. I thought the exhaust would only open when the piston was going up (give or take a bit of overlap) WTF have I done????? , but more importantly, how do I fix it!!!! Many thanks, Doug
  12. Craig's 6Fire In Aus

    SPEC-FRAKIN-TACULAR!!!!!!
  13. Repeated #5 Big End Failure Triumph 6

    Yes, but, if the oil can get in from 2 places instead of 1 and also opposite each other, wouldnt that be better?
  14. Repeated #5 Big End Failure Triumph 6

    Hi Alan, yes it is a 2.5 crank down here in Australia. Not sure of its true history but at present it is in a CR5872 engine. The crank has just been machined to 10/10 and I guess they would have re-chamfered the oil holes again. Speaking of oiling,I can't remember where I saw/heard about grinding a groove/channel in the main bearing journals and caps. This is supposed to allow the oil to "circulate" under the bearing shell and enter in the other bearing shell through the hole in the bearing situated in the cap. Perhaps this was also on some production models of the Spitfire?? Just mentioned it as a thought to possibly improve oiling effectiveness. Cheers, Doug
  15. Repeated #5 Big End Failure Triumph 6

    Hi guys, just been reading this topic as I am currently putting my engine back together. After reading about the misalignment of oil holes I went and checked mine. Low an behold, No.5 was out of alignment! Only one of No.5. My crank happens to be one of the cross-drilled style so I thought I would post the pictures here to to add to this vault of information. Cheers, Doug
×