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About Kusanagi

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  1. I had my injection pump in my old bmw pack up and when I took the pump apart this was full of corrosion on the commutator ( a quick clean and it worked again ), I can only agree that it must be water in the fuel caused by the ethanol attracting it because that there was no other way for water to get in the tank.
  2. My hopes go with you Nick for the best outcome. Karl.
  3. You could try a ford 7" sierra diff like what is used on my car if you have a rotor-flex type rear suspension.
  4. Thanks guys, it has been hard sorting everything out, not a day goes by without me falling to pieces over something small. Helping my dad deal with his grief has also been hard as he was married almost 56 years, he has been keeping busy during the day sorting out my mums bits and pieces but during the evening he has been having trouble going to bed as he is finding the bedroom to empty to go into at night. Once the funeral is over with I am planning on taking him out to some museums and such so we are not stuck in the house brooding all the time. Again thanks, Karl.
  5. Thanks, the thing what is real distressing is that it was only diagnosed 4 weeks ago and my mom was supposed to go for a pre op test today ( Friday ) , the hospital tried doing a pre op 2 weeks ago but my mom was suffering from a high pulse rate which kept on changing so the hospital stopped the tests and set up a new appointment as I have mentioned already for when her pulse rate would have been better due to some new drugs she had been given, but my mom collapsed in dads and my arms as we tried to help get her comfortable. Apparently as the surgeon at A&E told us what had happened a main blood vessel which went through the tumour had split and had caused massive internal bleeding which caused kidney failure and massive heart failure from which my mom did not recover from.
  6. Treasure your parents as you don't know how long you will have them, as I have just lost my mom yesterday morning due to heart failure caused by cancer.
  7. I swear that this car is getting a strop on as I have not been doing much to it lately because I have been spending all my time on the mustang, the reason for me saying this is that last weekend ( Saturday ) I had got the spit out and taken it for a run filled it up and then washed it and cleaned it up as I was going to a show on Sunday ( Bromley Pagent of Motoring ). The thing is that when I went to put it away the XYZ'ing thing would not start ( this was at nearly seven in the evening and I had to be up at six in the morning ), the car turned over no problem but would not catch so the plugs where checked and they had no fuel, so the injection line was checked and no fuel was found but the pump was working so I thought that it might be a filter problem so that was checked still no fuel was found at the filter. This left only the pump but you could hear it working, then I remembered reading one of the other members posts on the forum about the fuel pipe coming adrift in the tank, so this meant removing the tank to check it out ( this is at almost half seven at night ). After pulling the tank out ( which was full of fuel ) and removing the pump setup the pipe had indeed fallen off the out put pipe, this had happened because of several factors : 1. me being lazy and forgetting to put a flare on the copper out put pipe. 2. the rubber fuel pipe softening at the pipe clamp allowing the pipe to slip off ( even though it is R9 rated ). 3. using a small pipe clamp to hold the rubber pipe on. So to fix this I had to make a flare by hand on the copper pipe then cut back the rubber pipe to where it was firmer and use a better pipe clamp then fit the pump back in the tank then put the tank back in the car ( total time to take the tank out and put it back 1 hour so not to bad ). You would think that this would be the end of the problems but no, the car still would not start it and seemed that there was a air lock in the fuel system around the injectors but after cranking it for a while it finally started and the car finally put away for the evening. The next morning I got the car loaded up for the show went to start it, and you guessed it the air lock was back so I spent another quarter of an hour cranking the car to get the air lock to shift and then the car managed to start. The car drove to the show no problem got a bit hot in traffic but that was it, the real test came when it was time to leave the show, would it start, thankfully it did at the first touch of the start button. So I think I am going to have to spend a day going over the car in the next day or so to check for any other problems as I have few more shows coming up over the next few months and I am intending to use the car itself for some running around as I do not use it enough at the moment. P.S. I have also found that J.B.Weld is not fuel proof.
  8. It has been a while since I last posted anything so I thought I should update what has happened since I last updated. During 2016 the only changes I have made was to the gear stick set up as the original set fell apart leaving the gear change like stirring a pudding bowl ( this happened mid way through the London to southend charity run ). The setup now uses a rodend and a modified gearstick and should be bullet proof. Another job that has been done was to put the fuel injection pump in the tank, this required a surge baffle to be made and fitted so the pump did not suffer fuel starvation. I was planning to do this job next year but I thought that the old tank that was fitted to the car was leaking as every time I went to use the car ( which was once every couple of weeks ) the tank was almost empty and when I left the car it was normally left with at least half a tank plus the car was always stinking of fuel. When I removed the tank I could not find any evidence of leaking ( plus the fuel lines could not be leaking as the tank fuel outlet had a shut off valve fitted ) I began to suspect that someone might be helping themselves to the fuel when the car was not being used, this would not be the first time this had happened as two of my previous cars have had the fuel lines torn out and the tanks drained ( a couple of old fords ) and we suffer a lot of kids riding around on motorbikes around where I live. With this in mind I have fitted a locking fuel cap to the spit and within 5 days of fitting it I have noticed that someone has had a go of opening the locking cap as the cap had been pulled around and was sitting pissed but had not been opened. This has now been put back in place and I will have to keep a closer eye on it, the annoying thing about this is that someone has had to come up the drive almost to the front door to do this. Now this has been sorted out the car has developed a new fault in that it will not turn of once started even if I remove the leads from the battery the only thing I can think of is that there is a wiring fault ( possibly a bad earth ) as the only thing I have touched is that I have removed the lift pump relay and fuse and if I put the relay back the car works normally.
  9. It is a ford 7" diff but it is not a LSD but it has a very good ratio ( 3.38 to 1 ) but a 7" LSD would fit the same. The missing photo's only show an early design of the diff mountings which I discarded as they required modifying the bodywork of the car where as the current set up does not. The only down side of the current set up is the spring mount is moved up about 1.5 inches so the cars ride height at the back is dropped by the same amount and you also lose some tension there as well, the only way to fix this is to replace the shock absorber with a coil over shock absorber. It is also worth stating that you can only use the ford diff with a suspension setup which uses a lower suspension arm ( like a rotoflex setup ) as the diff will not take any side loadings ( like a standard swing axle setup ). I will try to get under the car to get a couple of up to date photo's of the setup but this may not be for a few days.
  10. Another diff to look at is the ford Granada ( sierra ) diff as this can be fitted with very little modification to the chassis. This is the diff I have used in my injected v8 spit which is in the area of 200bhp and have had no problems so far, I have made my own uprights and drive shafts ( see my thread 8pot spit in members cars for more details ) but it can be made to fit with the rotoflex uprights with a little work.
  11. Hi john About the hole you are trying to machine you could try a blacksmith drill bit of the appropriate size ( a large drill with a reduced shank ) or else you will probably need a internal boring bar, you could try someone like WARCO for this as this is where I got my lathe tools from, they sell a 9 piece indexable set for only £56 or individual indexable tools from £14. Hope this was helpful Karl
  12. The relays and fuses look nice but it was a total cow to wire up and to make sure that there was no mistakes. The coil packs are off a VW Golf/Jetta also used on a Skoda Octavia, the part no is 06A905097 ( this is the part mentioned in the Megasquirt build manual ) I got these of Ebay for about £60 each but you can also get them from spares places like GSF but they cost about £90 - £110 each ( there is a slight fault in the molding of the ones I have got as if you put a bolt in the mounting hole nearest the plug lead connectors there is an arc to earth from the bolt but other than that they work fine ). The coil packs connection to the plug leads is a small 4mm pin connection and will require buying leads with this connector fitted ( expensive ) or you could do what I did and make your own leads, I got the components for making my leads from www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk at a very good price. You will also need to buy a Bosch 6 way connector ( 1J0973726 - 6 way Sealed Female Connector ) to connect to the loom to the coil pack as these are nearly impossible to get second hand, trouble is these are nearly as hard to get new as well, I managed to source these from a german web site www.Automotive-connectors.com. The site is in german but can be switched to English via a toggle in the top right hand corner, the connectors can be bought with or without tails and cost about 8 euro's each plus postage.
  13. Well it is running again, after pulling the entire wiring loom and rewiring from scratch ( to no result ) it turned out to be my camshaft position sensor. The strange thing is that the sensor worked fine on the bench and when being tested on the car but it kept going wrong when you tried to make the car start, so I pulled out the optronic unit I was using and replaced it with a hall sensor and modified the trigger to suit. Now the car is running again I have now replaced my coil packs and gone coil near plug using VW coil packs, the only bugbear is that I fiddled with my fuel maps so much when trying to sort the problem out they are having to be done from scratch again and I have got to sort out the cold start settings again. The other thing I have done is to place the fuse/relay panel where the battery goes and the battery now lives in a battery box in the boot.
  14. A small update as to what is happening with the car as it is off the road for now and may be off the road for a while as the car has developed a starting problem ( as in it will not start ). This started about 7 weeks ago as one day the car decided out of the blue not to start or when I could get it started it ran like a pig and kept fouling it's plugs, so in due diligence the plugs and leads where changed to no effect, all the settings where checked to make certain nothing had changed and everything was as it was left when the car was running, the crank and cam sensors where syncing, so thinking that it might be my coil packs or ignition amp ( as the spark did seem extremely weak ) I bought a new set of coil packs ( VAG 4 way logic coils x 2 ) and wired them up to give me sequential spark ( coil near plug ) still will not start. Next I checked that I was getting spark at the plugs via test mode, that was fine so was the injectors via test mode. fuel pressure was checked and that was steady at 44PSI and fuel was getting to the plugs because they where getting wet with fuel. I then decided to take apart the front of the engine to check that the woodruff key was fine and to also check the timing chain, these where found to be fine as well, after the engine was reassembled the compression was checked this to was fine, so next the crank shaft position sensor was changed ( and a new more adjustable mount fitted ) and then this was logged in tuner studio to double check that I was getting a good signal from both of the crank and cam sensors, both of these where fine with no sync errors. Next I reset my tooth No.1 position and tried to start the car again, nope still will not start in fact all it does is cough. I have tried to check the timing on cranking but the engine will not turn over fast enough to get a good reading with the strobe and no matter what I do with the cranking timing it still will not start. So at the moment I have totally stripped out all of the electrical system to do with the engine management and all of my additional fuse boxes and relays plus any wiring, when I feel in the mood I will redo the entire electrical system which will incorporate moving the battery to the boot and putting the Megasquirt, fuse boxes and relays to where the battery was ( to make wiring simpler and eliminate any errors which can occur ) but this may take a while as I have got to get on with the bodywork on the mustang while I have still got the weather. If anyone can think of anything that I have missed please let me know as frankly where the spit is concerned I am at my limit and the next thing that I might do is to send the Megasquirt back to the person I bought it from to be checked as I do not have the equipment to do this.
  15. I have found that the revotec fans give a good flow for the size.
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