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Mark

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About Mark

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  1. Hi all I need to buy some more paint for the Vitesse as I seem to have lost a couple of litres from the 5 litres of cellulose I bought years ago. I know there could be issues matching the existing shade so was going to buy another 5 litres. The place I originally bought the paint has long gone, so was looking at 1k paint and assumed this would be Nitro Cellulose. I was going to go with a Lechler Macrofan Mac 5 as this was offered by a couple of suppliers and from previous experience I rate Lechler products. Looking at the spec sheet it is a Nitro Acrylic paint, not Nitro cellulose. I am sure it is a good paint but wondered how it compares to cellulose, or is all solvent based paint now Acrylic. Any ideas? Mark
  2. Mark

    Health.....

    HI Nick, sorry you are having to go through all this discomfort whilst recovering. I have a little insight, as about 30 years ago I watched my dad go through a similar but probably more crude process in his early 50s, and the subsequent blockages, discomfort etc. that followed. Not nice at all. Hope you start feeling better soon. Mark
  3. Mark

    Health.....

    Good luck and all the best Nick. Mark
  4. I have owned a Norbar torque wrench for about 30 years. Well made, nice quality tool. Mark
  5. Thanks lads, great idea. Mark
  6. Hi all Picked up an old hand operated forge blower the other week at Enfield Pageant. The elderly Irish Gent asked if I knew what it was, to me it looked like a forge blower but he referred to it as a 'Fanner' and that most houses in Ireland had them years ago to help get the fire started, don't know how true that is? Anyway I want to restore it and was wondering the best way of replacing the drive shaft that is badly worn, and the holes in the cast iron that the drive shaft ran in, now elliptical. After lots of effort and patience I managed to separate the two halves of the blower without breaking it, and then cut the worn shaft in half to remove it from the castings. Not sure how the pulley was originally fixed to the shaft, maybe the pulley had a hole drilled in it then heated and the shaft pressed in. Same for the boss that holds the paddles(one missing) to the shaft. Initial thoughts were to sleeve the holes in the casting then drill out to the correct diameter for a new shaft. Then maybe drill out the centre of the pulley fit in the new shaft and use a pin through the side to hold it in placed same with the boss for the paddles/fans. Not sure if I should use a different material for the bearing surface as what looks like a mild steel rod has been running in the cast iron for probably 100+ years before wearing out. What's the best engineering solution chaps! Mark
  7. Mark

    Stupid B*****d (me)

    I could have kicked myself last year, reported here, when I dropped a nut into the bell housing through the hole where the slave cylinder sits. Don't beat yourself up, it happens to us all. I made up this bendy magnet with one of the tiny, very very strong magnets epoxied onto the end and then bound with I think a bit of inner tube rubber and isulating tap, so as to stop it grabbing from side to side, and belt and braises as I didn't fancy leaving the magnet behind. Got the manget from Maplins. Did try a endoscope attached to a smart phone, but I couldn't see much due to the shape of the bell housing, but maybe something to consider in your situation. Magnet worked eventually. Mark
  8. HI John I've seen wireless tyre pressure sensors on eBay advertised for trucks and trailers in the past. From memory they screw onto the valve with the receiver in the car. Mark
  9. Eddie had a highly modified blue mk4 Spitfire 1300, rear lower wishbone set up, always remember it ran with a hard top. Very quick car and a great driver. Very nice fellow, who knew how to make triumphs go quick. You can see good close ups of it racing in the tssc race series on YouTube.
  10. Blimey they look well cooked. Looks like you got good use out of them which is satisfying. I removed the dust sheild and fitted 2.8 Capri discs to my Vitesse yet to be tested, which I think will be enough, but was thinking of adding some extra cooling/ducting via the front valence. Mark
  11. Mark

    Health.....

    Hi Nick You can do without this! Not nice. Good that you got checked out though. all the best. Mark
  12. Something else I forgot to mention, I had some flanges cut out of 10mm mild steel, and made sure that the drawing was as accurate as I could. The position of the stud hole is crucial as it positions the flange over the exhaust port. When offering up the flange to different heads and different ports on the same head there is a deffinate descrepecy in how it marries up to the port or not. The studs are straight so the ports must be off and defiantly not semetrical. The closer I look the more different the ports look compared to each other. As the engine I am using is just being used as a jig, I will just tweak the flanges to suit, so should then fit any engine. When I decide on the head I will be using on yhe 2.5 engine I will grind out the ports to match the flanges on the next manifold.
  13. Hi all Trying to pick up where I left off and makihg another 6-3-1 manifold for my Gt6 that will eventually get a 2.5 fitted. I originally intended to make three whilst I was in the swing of it, making consistently nice bends at the time. I had some pipes with initial bends already made from last time but instantly ruined them when I tried to add other bends. I had Lost whatever technique i had developed, but starting to make progress now, Definitely not like riding a bike, but gradually getting better results again. One of the difficulties is getting the round tube squared off in exactly the correct position at the correct downward angle, a couple of mm out at the head means 10mm out at the end of the primary where it's intersecting with the other pipe. Trying to keep primary lengths the same, missing all the obstacles and getting them to thread between the chassis and sump is challenging. After I finish this one I was going to use a slightly larger pipe for the primary and was considering keeping it round and welding it to the outside of the flange. I can't think why it should have any effect on flow, as long as it follows the same dowmward angle of the exhaust port. What's your thoughts?
  14. Don't remember this photo being taken, but looks like me and my car, 3rd in from the left, number 19, red 1500 with bonnet air intake, black and white stripe down the middle. Great memories. Mark
  15. Mark

    Triumph Rocker oil Holes

    I noticed this when I was trying to work out why I had a loud tap from the engine on first start up. You all identified it as lack of lubrication to the rockers which turned out to be a blockage in an oil gallery in the recon head. These where a selection of Rockers known to come from Mk2 vitesse early and late 1970 and a 2.5 tc and PI. Mark
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