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About sparky_spit

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    Just passed my test!

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  1. Thanks everyone, I understand now.
  2. Thanks - what I'm asking is.... is the pattern that you can see in the ebay picture contained within the front glass? Or is the front glass completely plain, and the pattern is within the surface of the bowl? It's not easy to see from the picture.
  3. Thanks Clive - just to be certain; the crystal lens lamps that you and Iain are talking about are like this? 7" CLASSIC CAR CRYSTAL HEADLAMP HEADLIGHT HALOGEN H4 UPGRADE FLAT LENS + PILOT but not necessarily those specific cheap-ish ones. Something like Hella might be a better bet, but with the same lens pattern.
  4. Thank you gents; that's very useful. I've ordered a pair of 100W lamps and I'll see how I get on with them. Powering the headlights from the alternator output already works well on the spotlights, but does make the ammeter read incorrectly when they are on. I think I'll change the feed point for them and the headlights to after the ammeter. I assume the ceramic holders are to reduce heat transfer? At present the lamp's metal flange locates directly into the bowl and is held with a spring. I think the new ones have the same arrangement. Maybe yours are different Iain? I like the idea of having dip on as well as main, but I don't think the scrutineer will.... Plus it will need another relay and a diode to stop mains being on when dipped?
  5. I've taken the Cibies off the Spitfire for the summer, as the winter night-time rally series has now finished for the year. So I'm now relying on the headlights alone, which are normal 55w/60w H4 type halogen bulbs. However, these are pretty pathetic on main beam and I want to upgrade them to something a bit more powerful, but still within the capabilities of the existing wiring (albeit with relayed main and dip) and 55Amp alternator. I don't want to go as far as LED I don't think, or "blue" lights, but something within the H4 type fitment and will work properly without changing the headlamp bowls and lenses. Has anyone any experience of this and used Osram Nightbreakers for example? Or some of the 100w/100w H4 halogens that you see on ebay for £15 or so? Any recommendations please?
  6. A tip regarding the cable ties for the seat covers.... don't cut off the loose ends with wire cutters, as every time you reach under the seat you'll slice your hand/wrist/arm on the sharp edge left behind. Use a Stanley knife to cut them flush with the "nipple". Ask me why I recommend this.....
  7. I'm lucky in that there is a dedicated music/HiFi kit hospice charity shop not far from me, run by a bloke who loves music and everything to do with it. I buy vinyl albums from there to fill the gaps in my collection very cheaply, although I do have some new re-pressings too. Regardless, I still tend to only really listen to about 30 or so favourites from a small collection of 200-ish albums (a friend of mine has over 3000!) so I'm a bit of a creature of habit really. All my kit is middling 1970's stuff and fine for my fading hearing, although I do have a powered sub-woofer hidden behind the sofa, which adds to the experience.
  8. Well done John. 9.5..... I've docked half a point because it didn't start first time and you had the fuel pipes (?) the wrong way round. Good to see Tom and Vinny on there with you, and I loved your idea for deciding which of you got the car! Vinny will probably paint it yellow.
  9. If I'm allowed to converse with you John without going through your agent?.... I liked it, in the same way as I like shows such as Car SOS, Shed & Buried, etc. It seemed to be more authentic and down to earth than some of the other shows, and didn't have that awful false jeopardy most shows seem to love. I guess the re-built cars needed a thorough check and probable re-assemble before going anywhere near a road? It did still have that really annoying habit of endless re-caps that seem to suggest that the viewers have the memory of a goldfish but, that aside, it was enjoyable and I'm looking forward to the next one. I'm sort of hoping your car was a Triumph? But then that would be too easy.....
  10. It does not do you any good to "see" a UFO. Or claim to have seen one. A very good friend and his colleague saw one when driving to work, one day in the 1980's. Usual thing... silver object accelerating away at impossible speed. They told police and friends. It briefly appeared in the local press. They were ridiculed basically. He wished he had kept his mouth shut and the whole episode affected him quite badly. He knew he'd seen it but couldn't stand the disbelief of others.
  11. Ahh, yes. I stand corrected.
  12. I've just popped out to the garage and checked; the filter is definitely full of oil as it is many times heavier than a new unused one. And it still won't leak any oil if you upend it. Its quite short in length, like your 714/2.
  13. I can vouch for the Mann W713/9 fitted on my Spitfire with a 3/4 adapter. I took it off today during an oil change and it has retained its oil without a drop coming out, even if you hold it with the holes pointing downwards. This obviously accounts for why the oil light goes out very quickly after turning the key, usually about 2 seconds. They are about £11 from Eurocarparts. Not the cheapest but certainly worth it.
  14. I agree, but then I'm biased . Although, strictly speaking, my Mk3 is Wedgwood Blue which is very slightly darker than Powder Blue. Pedant alert over.....
  15. I can assist with V55 and NOVA1 information once you buy the car and it arrives on UK soil. I recently "imported" a French registered enduro motorcycle and did the HMRC NOVA stuff and DVLA's V55 application myself. It is relatively easy if you follow one of the guides available on a number of club's web sites. Doing this for 2 wheel and 4 wheel vehicles is very similar. Basically, HMRC is only interested in if you need to pay any VAT to them via their Vehicle Arrival scheme, which won't be applicable for you, but crucially, in all cases, they will provide you with a NOVA reference number. This is emailed to you and is also made available to DVLA. DVLA will reject your application if the NOVA reference is not on "the computer" or it does not match exactly the one on your application. This is critical to getting your car registered. Use the paper version NOVA1 form and send it by post, not the online version as you won't have all the information needed to allow the online application to complete properly. I can send you a guide to what goes where on the form; much of it is not applicable. Make sure you get any Title/Log Book or something official from the seller that proves the vehicle's date of manufacture/first registration. If not you will need a dating certificate from a recognised and registered club, such as CT. Also make sure you get a receipt proving that the vehicle belongs to you and how much you paid for it. DVLA will issue an age related number (you cannot choose your new number) via the V55 scheme as long as they are satisfied everything is correct and nothing seems fishy. They may ask for an inspection at a local centre on a seemingly random basis. Again, there are online guides and use the paper V55 form. I can send you a guide to what goes where on the form if you need it. It seems daunting at first, but it is quite straightforward as long as you know what you are doing and have all the documents and info to hand. NOVA is free (is that a first for HMRC?) and V55 is £90 plus your first year's road tax (your's will be free?). It's a bargain.
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