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About JohnD

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    Loves monkeying with his car

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    Serial Vitesse racer
  1. Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    OF COURSE!!!!!!!!!! No need to cut, shut, fiddle with connectors! Roger and Nick, you are the Senior Wranglers! Just swap the spark leads!!!!!!! Who cares which coil gets zapped! As long as long as it goes to the right cylinders. Try it tommorow, too late now. John
  2. Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    Thank you, Alfredo! That's what I just did, and with the timing light pick-up on No.2, the timing marks appear around the TDC marker! So the EDIS is 60 degrees out. And thank you for that interpretation. We know my supplier mis-wired the sensor - does that mean they miswired the coil as well?!?! It's firing 2 and 5 when it should fire 1 and 6 If the wiring is as it appears here, then coil C, sparks 1 & 6. But when C should, instead Coil A, 2 & 5 is firing. This says to me that my supplier wired them the opposite way around! A-3, B-2, C-1, instead of as above, A-1, B-2, C-3 If I swap the wires to those two coils and leave Coil B, it should be OK?! I'm getting wire swap happy here; if I can't reverse the wires on the connector, I might just cut & shut again. BUT. Just had a look at the wiring. It uses different colours to those above, but as you look down on the four-way connector, from left to right it goes Green-blue-purple-red, so the red, 12V+ wire is in the same place as above. To avoid confusion I'll call the coils A-1, B-2 and C-3. The coil connections from the EDIS pins should be, Coil A-1 from pin 10, B-2 from pin 11, C-3 from 12 - and they are, exactly as above. So the wiring appears to be correct, not swapped around. Confused, John
  3. Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    I have firing plugs, but not a firing engine. Putting the timing gun on it revels that No.1 is firing nowhere near TDC, let alone at 10BTDC. I can't even see the timimg marks on the pulley, it's so far, far out. To date, it's John - 1 (reversed leads on the sensor) and Megajolt, or rather the Ford Motor Co.Inc - 1 (their product always works, if used properly). So I assume I'm still doing something wrong. And as the timing appears to be way - way! - out, is it where I've put the sensor? The Installation instructions (https://wiki.autosportlabs.com/MJLJ_V3_vehicle_installation_guide) say that, at TDC on No.1, the sensor must. for a six-cylinder, be 60 degrees or six teeth behind the missing tooth. The picture there shows the sensor(s) mounted above the toothed wheel, and many have put them there. See page 1 and page 3 of this thread for Roger's and Royboy's installations. Roy's is a runner too. But in my wisdom, I mounted it at approx. 8 o'clock as you look at the front of the engine. But that shouldn't matter, should it? The animated GIF shows that the sensor can be anywhere, as long as it's six teeth behind the missing at TDC. And that's where mine is - the missing tooth is about ten o'clock, so 60 degrees. I'll admit, as I have before, that it's more like five-and-a-half teeth behind the missing, but surely that would put the timing out by no more than 5 degrees. I should at least be able to see the timing marks with the light, and I can't, so it's out by more than 60 degrees. Why? No idea at present. I can try and correct the small error in the distance behiend the missing, but that means taking the pulley off, not a trivial task, I've got so much gubbins around the engine front, and the actual timing error seems so much bigger, is it worth it? JOhn
  4. Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    Alan, you PRESS the clip to release it, not lift it! John
  5. Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    See here? http://www.trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/p195.html John
  6. Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    Alan, As I haven't assembled mine, just bought it, and found it was WRONG - Grrrrrrrrrrrr! - So, I'm not your guru. Roger's pic may help. John
  7. Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    Ah, thanks Roger, but as I have added, I've gone to the Dark Side. JOhn
  8. Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    And, TARA!!! I reverse the connections to the crank sensor, and all the test diodes I have on the spark plugs light up as I crank it! We have lift off! No actual start as yet, but it's all going that way. Who would have thought it - a 'shop-bought' wiring loom gets the connection the wrong way round! I can't go back to the seller now - I've had it on the shelf for years, and he's not in business any more (wonder why??) But now, how can I put them back the right way? Don't want to cut'n' splice,but may have to. The wires go into a dedicated connector at both ends. Clearly, the guy who built the new loom put new wires in, so it's possible. My crankshaft sensor connector looks like this. The little white insert pulls out, but I can't see how to unlock the terminals inside And the EDIS connector like this. This pics shows the terminal pins that go in it. What the pic doesn't show is another plastic insert pushed in from this side on the connector, but I can't see how to release the terminal pins. Any ideas? Cut, cross and resolder would be quick and dirty! John PS Forget it - I've gone Quick & Dirty! Cut, soldered, shrink-wrapped and bound with copper tape as the old shielding had to be cut back. Recovered in split conduit and bound with insulating tape and its better than new! No, to get it to start, then Megajolted. Progress! J.
  9. Proctoscope

    If you insist, Paul. This looks like what I bought, and Lo! It is now on sale for £1! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7mm-Android-Phone-Endoscope-IP67-Inspection-Borescope-HD-6-LED-Video-Camera-MR/132470540725?hash=item1ed7dc09b5:m:m2UztkxPeQdU2MT8LUEMM0g I mean, for that price if you ca see the Sun through the other end it's a miracle! John
  10. Proctoscope

    Anything in this field that only costs a tenner is unbelievably good for the price, compared to the pro-stuff! That doesn't mean very good. To borrow word from that old reprobate Dr.Johnson, who said on seeing a woman preaching in church, that she didn't need to be a good preacher, it was remarkable that she did it at all! John (who is now in hiding from the Regiment of Women)
  11. Proctoscope

    Condensation occurs when an atmosphere loaded with water vapour meets a surface that is at a temperature less than the dew point. In the body, any cavity accessible by an endoscope, even temporary ones, is rapidly warmed and humidified, until it contains air or gas that is aturated with vapour and as warm as the body. Any endoscope is a heat channel to the outside, so cooler and water will condense on the end. So there are many commercial antifog agents that are successfully used, and pre-warming devices, to keep the instument from cooling for longer have been used. Windscreen antimist probably contains similar compounds and is worth a try. But Mattius - what are you looking inside that isn't cold and dry? There shouldn't be any water vapour inside an engine (Well, product of cobustion, yes, but not while you're bore scoping, unless you are most adventurous!). Endoscopists have a 'dirt on the lens' problem too, but inside the body, they can and do wipe it off on a convenient internal surface. Little opportunity for that in an engine. The extra cost of medical scopes, and possibly high-end engineering ones, is in the optics and in their being steerable, and operable. Controls at the user end allow the tip to be pointed in any direction, to allow inspection, and channels in the scope allow instruments, graspers, cutters and suckers to be inserted and used under direct vision. Some allow powerful lasers to be shone down, to cut and cauterise tissue. All several leaps ahead of a ten quid camera on a string! JOhn PS Paul was quite right to correct himself - a 'proctoscope' is an instrument to inspect the anal canal, which is very short, so the tool is barely four inches long, and inspection and even operation are done using naked eyeball Mk1 capability. Not an endocope!
  12. Proctoscope

    I bought a £10 one, and while it was a bit crap, it was unbelievably good for the price, when you consider the cost of a 'proper' endoscope (thousands). Lots on Amazon, for more money, inc. some standalone ones for 'only' £70 . It would be nice if price told quality, but it doesn't these days. John
  13. Duplex Cam Chain Alignment

    Again, looking at the rocker, it seems that a line joining the tip and the centre of the shaft, passes above the ball that takes the push rod. Then the centre of the ball is slightly nearer the shaft centre at rest than it will be when the cam lifts the rod and the valve. The ball has a diameter of 8mm, so the radius is 4mm, similar to the 6mm of lift, so the reduced distance is approximately the same as the movement nearer the centre that I calculated, so the ratio may start at more than 1:1.55 and approach that at the end of lift. On your points, Alan 1/ Yes, I think I misled myself. The contact point of tip in stem will be closer to the rocker shaft at max.lift, so the change in ratio will not be so great. 2/ Yes, the rod will be at a small angle, reducing it's height somewhat. Need to measure a rod and calculte that, but given that a rod is about 200mm long and the angle will be tiny, that reduction will not be great. But I don't think the effective rod length is affected by movement of the ball and cup, which will be concnetric abouit the ball's centre. John
  14. Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    I have a clue! First, in Another Place, I've had a reply from a Ford technician of enormous expreience, who says that EDIS units never fail, confirming my impression, but not allowing my initial diagnosis. Another suggested reversing the connections on the sensor - and I have a further clue See the first pic above - sensor and trigger wheel on the lathe. The missing tooth part of the wave is clearly seen to slope downwards, left to right. Then the second, from cranking with the sensor back on the car. The missing tooth section slopes UPwards, left to right. I'm uncertain, but would reversing the connections on the sensor could do that? I'll re-reverse them asap and report. I've given back the Picoscope, so won't be able to see which way the gap goes. Just have to see if the EDIS awakes! John
  15. Duplex Cam Chain Alignment

    While I was out in the garage this pm, I got out some old rocker assemblies and measured one. Only with a Vernier gauge, so not high precision, but anyway. Sure enough, I found that the distance from the centre of the ball that the push rod presses on to the centre of the rocker shaft is 15.8mm and from there to the centre of the pad that bears on the valve stem is 24.7mm. So the ratio is 1:1.56, which agrees with the 1:1.55 quoted by Roger. Not to check up on you, Roger, but to add veracity to the next bit. The rocker rotates on the centre of the rocker shaft, which is B in the diagram above, while C is the centre of the adjustment bolt. When the rocker rotates, it moves to the line AB. Now the distance between B and the adjuster is DB. If AD is a typical cam lift, 250 thou or 6.35mm, DB can be calculated by Pythagoras. AB^2 = AD^2 + DB^2 So DB^2 = AB^2 -AD^2 And DB = SQR (AB^2 -AD^2) Putting in values: DB = SQR (15.8^2 – 6.35^2) = 14.47. Meanwhile, the valve stem has not moved, the pad on the rocker has wiped across it, and is the same distance from the rocker shaft. The ratio is now 24.7/14.47 or 1:1.7 So the rocker ratio depends on cam lift, and increases as the cam rises.