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About thebrookster

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    World Champion!
  1. To be brutally honest Matt, the XDrive models really ain't that much cop either. The snow we had just before Christmas I rescued 3 in one day with the Ranger (with heated screen Alan lol). The wide low profile tyres are the killer, any four wheel drive system struggles when the manufacturer fits the wrong type of wheels! I think my next purchase for coming winters will be a set of snow chains, I do have a knack of finding roads that stretch even winter tyres, and when I invariably end up pulling everyone else out I could do with the extra grip. Most fortunately, right now I am anchored at Long Beach, California so get to watch all the current events from sunshine! Amusingly, the locals have been complaining about the cold the last few days. And it really is awful, the temps are only in the mid teens (Celsius)!! (Awful because it is just slightly too nippy for sunbathing lol) Cheers Phil
  2. Piston ring compressor

    Pushrods?? What on earth are those?? Nah, this is a pretty modern engine as things go, we don't even have a camshaft! The fuel pumps and exhaust timing is now done with hydraulics, and a fancy computer system controls it all. Not to my liking I have to say, if we lose the main computer we lose the engine, there is no way to manually run the engine like we can with older ones. But hey ho, such is progress! And the pushrods?? Spare cylinder head studs. Phil
  3. Piston ring compressor

    Heck, Roger, she's a baby!! This trip is something of a learning curve for me, as I am sailing with the newest engines I have come across onboard. Our Main Engine is the MAN "G" series ultra long stroke slow speed engine, where the stroke is 3.72m, bore is 80cm, and 7 cylinders total. Power output for normal use is just under 22000KW (29000bhp). Earlier we were slow steaming to match another ship, we had the engine running at 15 rpm. 61 rpm is max speed. Takes some getting used to, slowest I have sailed on for sure! Anyway, back on subject, included should be an image of one of our spare liners, with the introducer in front. Cheers, Phil
  4. Piston ring compressor

    Nice bit of work that! We use introducers on the ship as well, I will have to take a photo for you now. Just a slightly different scale (although doing an identical job). Phil
  5. Cam Comparison Chart

    I wish I could take the credit for the design, but I stole it from someone else quite a while ago. Something in the grey matter suggests it might have been from Andy in Australia originally, which I saw at one point and simply converted to a spreadsheet with added data from some other cams I had details for. Intention is to up date a bit more when I find time. It is finding the time that I am struggling with however!! Cheers Phil
  6. Cam Comparison Chart

    I started a sheet a while ago, very good idea which you have nicely surpassed me in!! Attached is my rather more rudimentary version, please feel free to use and change, and add as needed! Cheers, Phil Camshaft Spreadsheet.xlsx
  7. Camshaft Bearings

    Looks good to me. You have only machined the top section of the guide, and the actual sideways force exerted on that section will be fairly minimal I would have thought? If there was enough force on it that you had to start worrying about the wall thickness then I would be suspecting that something else was not quite right? Phil
  8. 'standard' electronic ignition

    I run the Simon BBC system in my Mk1 2000, never had any issues with it. It was fitted by the PO, so can't say for installation. Edit: Forgot to say, you can purchase either through eBay or Google for his website. Cheers Phil
  9. My New Texas Ride

    Range Rover?? Should have reversing camera as well surely!! You give people all the aids.............. Have to confess though, a reversing camera is damned useful with trucks, I have a Ford Ranger which I tow with. The trailer is a 16ft 3.5 tonne beast, 6 and 1/2 foot wide. When it is in line with the Ranger, I can see the sides of it and no more!! I reckon I can easily loose two small chassis Triumphs end to end behind the truck that are simply not visible from mirrors alone. Scary thought............ Included a couple of pics for scale, the chassis is from a GT6 (taken just outside Cardiff)!!
  10. Wot is happening?

    Essentially John, examples of deckies fucking up Yes, you are right, the anchor chain is fastened down, an arrangement called the "bitter end". This is also the origin of the saying, right to the bitter end!! To explain what is happening needs some background. Traditionally to drop an anchor your simply let it go, and then brake it when enough chain is over the side. However, modern ships have increased dramatically in size and weight, and correspondingly so has the amount (and weight) of chain and anchor. Your average anchor weighs approx 20 tonnes, and each chain link is measured in 100kg or more (maybe big Chris can pick a link up, is normal fellows would have no chance without slipping a disc!). Unfortunately, anchor windlass design has not kept up, resulting in most ships having a windlass only just man enough for the job. The correct procedure these days is to walk the anchor out, ie under power with the windlass, which will powered either by hydraulics or steam and has the capability to control the weight. In these videos, they are trying to use the brake to control the release. 20 tonnes of anchor plus, and heaven knows how much weight of chain is too much for the brake to handle, they now are only designed to handle a static weight, not a dynamic weight of a uncontrolled release. Think of it in terms of why we upgrade brakes on our classics, except you cannot design a brake big enough to cope with these loads that would physically on a deck of a ship!! So what is happening is the brake is overloaded, and burns out. The bitter end fails because again it is designed with some leeway in weight, but not enough to hold several hundred tonnes landing on it suddenly! Cheers Phil
  11. Alternative to a type 038 battery?

    I might be wrong, but I was under the impression that the 038 relates to the size of the battery and the orientation of the terminals, not the spec of the battery itself? You should be able to buy a better spec battery in 038 size (Halfords will give an indication as too what is available), however I find with all the Triumphs I can fit a bigger size in anyway, something 065 I use?? You need to check terminal orientation and location with regards to cables, and physical size. Also, I think some people have used gel battery's etc, as smaller and lighter, but I really know nothing about these! Cheers Phil
  12. Modern cars and POs

    Yeah, but at least you guys had the errrmmm, courage to try, I didn't even bother trying lol. Which has its downsides, my last bill came in nearly into 4 figures due to a broken rear leaf spring lol. Phil
  13. Modern cars and POs

    We do have some angle torques onboard, however all the major torques for main engine/generator (cylinder heads, Conrods, bearings etc etc) are actually all done by hydraulic pressure. Wind the nut down, slide a collar over it then screw a jack on top and pump. Mind you, some of our tightening torques measure in the thousands of bar pressure range, I dread to think how long a bar and how many people it would take to tighten that by hand I envy you for attempting maintenance on modern cars, I have given up on my 14 plate Ranger, it simply goes to a garage now. And that has comparatively excellent room compared to most!! Phil
  14. AFR Reading

    Hi Darren, I have just re-read the post, I have misunderstood your question. I had read it as suggesting you were considering reducing the authority to a smaller value, which is what I was confused about! A more careful perusal and I realise you meant turn it all the way to zero as an option for essentially disabling the sensor until you get the replacement. Which makes a lot more sense!! My apologies for the misunderstanding, I shall await with interest to see how you get on with the new sensor. Cheers Phil
  15. AFR Reading

    Darren, I am far from an expert in such matters, but I don't see the dilemma? If the sensor/controller/wiring is faulty, and giving a bad signal, then the only option is to remove it from the equation. The O2 sensor is not crucial to operation, it is added extra. Which right now is making things worse. Reducing the authority doesn't change this, you simply alter how much worse it can make it, surely? So disablement is the only option for the time being. When you replace/repair what is wrong, then running on reduced authority makes sense until you have full confidence in the system again. Cheers, Phil