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Nick Jones

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Everything posted by Nick Jones

  1. Sounds good. Mine gets about 20 idling hot, 15 very hot or 10 after 15 minutes lapping Castle Coombe........ so 50 sounds great!! Easy fix and a lesson..... READ THE INSTRUCTIONS
  2. Nick Jones

    Spark plug

    While I'd not argue against there being fake NGK plugs out there, I'm pretty sure that they don't need to be fake to have failures due to wetting. I have seen it written (but have no way of verifying) that NGKs made in Japan do not suffer from the wetting problem but those made in France do. Another take on it https://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/fouling-shortingout-problem-modern-plugs-champion-vs-ngk
  3. It was a noise problem. I've got better HT leads now so could try them again maybe. No capacitors involved as far as I know and they are resistive plugs albeit lower resistance than "usual".
  4. Nick Jones

    Spark plug

    If it doesn't spark...…. Slightly flip and unhelpful answer I fear, but actually quite difficult off the car without specialist test gear. On the car you just pull the plug leads off in turn (make sure you are well insulated!!) and see which one makes the difference. Visually, check that the electrodes are intact and the gap is reasonable. The insulator should be examined for cracks. If it's a newish NGK it could just be that the insulator has been fuel wetted as for some reason some NGK plugs don't seem to be able to stand this and don't seem to be recoverable. Visually there is nothing to see - it seems that the insulator becomes conductive. I've stopped buying them for this reason.
  5. I've got a couple of sets of these....... Plasma plugs...... We had it cruising at 18:1 AFR without hitching but never got it mapped properly as the plugs were offending the ECU for some reason.... The second set has more holes but I've not tried them.
  6. Cause found? In our household her car makes funny noises, but only when I'm not in it....
  7. Superflex use a much harder grade of PU for these parts - pretty much as hard as the nylon. If you can find NOS quality then great...… but not so easy now...… everyone wants them because the modern "equivalents" are just rubbish.
  8. Yes, one of the greats - and a good man too.
  9. https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/spitfire-and-gt6-forum.8/differential-setup-notes-when-fitting-a.1617743/
  10. They can be made to fit with a 3.27. 2 Spec did one for Tim Ward. Not quite sure what is involved but only quite minor machining I think..... Anyhow...... Some research and measurement suggests that David is quite correct and there is a simple way around this. I think it is in fact possible to use any carrier with any body by choosing the right bearing, though I haven't yet looked for the bearing that allows the later 35mm carrier in an early body. There are probably other variations out there (the 4.11s certainly have some differences) but among the parts I have: Early (Vitesse Mk2) 3.89 has 62mm carrier bearing saddles with a maximum width of 130.6mm The carrier with this has 31.75mm bearing spigots and uses 15123/15245 bearings with a width of 18.16mm The carrier width between bearings is assumed* to be the same width as the Blackline one @ 91.5mm and adding two bearing widths gives 127.82mm which will fit within the 130.6mm housing width with just under 3mm for shims Late (Spit1500) 3.63 has 59.13mm carrier bearing saddles with a maximum spacing of 126.17mm The carrier with this has 35.00mm bearing spigots and uses 68149/68110 bearings with a width of 15.875mm The carrier width between bearings is assumed* to be the same width as the Blackline one @ 91.5mm and adding two bearing widths gives 123.25mm, which will fit within the 126.17mm housing width with just under 3mm for shims Using the LM67048/LM67010 bearing gives the smaller 31.75 ID in combination with the smaller 59.13 OD wioth the same 15.875 width. It has a marginally higher (+3%) strength rating than the larger ID bearing. The early 15123/15245 combination is +30% though....... which is interesting. However, I don't think the carrier bearings are noted failure points, so probably not worth wrestling with the pinion height issue for.
  11. The price for a days fun must be paid......
  12. Thank you for that - not least for finding Sam's excellent thread which I knew was there but could not find!
  13. Calling diff experts....... I'm not a diff expert but I've have decided it's high time I taught myself how to assemble diffs. This has been provoked by the recent purchase of a Blackline Torsen LSD carrier. It's a Quaife copy at roughly half the price and as the Vitesse diff is whining rather loudly....... So, the donor diff was going to be a late 3.63:1 (thanks Alan!), ex-spit 1500. This is now dismantled and as I also happened to have a rather earlier Mk2 Vitesse 3.89 in bits (duff scrapyard purchase some years ago - water damage to CW/P) I was working up a set of bearing numbers and noticed that the carrier bearing numbers are different. The older carrier has 31.76mm spigots for the bearings and the bearing OD is 62mm The newer carrier has 35mm spigots for the bearings and the bearing OD is just under 60mm. I then measured the LSD and found that has the older style 31.76 spigots. This is all a bit unexpected and has the effect of preventing me from using the 3.63 casing - which is irritating as it's clean and the 3.89 one is horrible...... and also, more significantly, by moving the 3.63 pinion into a different casing as I understand it, what was a fair chance of the spacer under the pinion head bearing still giving the correct pinion height with a new bearing falls away to zero and I'm not sure how to get this to where it needs to be. On the flip side the older style bearing looks rather chunkier, albeit with 15 rollers rather than 23.... I've not looked up the load ratings yet. It's also possible that there is another bearing inner/outer combination that allows the smaller spigot centre to go in the later casing..... Looks like I can interchange the solid spacer from the earlier diff onto the 3.63 pinion and do away with the horrible crush tube thing, which is definitely good news. Anyone know what the options are (if any) and the pros/cons?
  14. I always though ordinary helicoils were stronger than the original thread? The anti-rotate feature is nice though.
  15. Only happening cold....? These are usually worse when hot. Most ignition issues seem to be worse when hot. I think the Misab plates / O-rings is a very good call. Small air leak making it very lean when cold and a bit less lean when warm......
  16. I’m told it’s my marbles rolling away...... (kids are so cruel ) so who takes my bloody marbles
  17. Has it always done this or is it a new thing? Definitely banging in the exhaust or spitting back through the carb throats? As it happens cold but not warm as Weber’s rarely have their chokes connected l’m thinking either spitting back or lean misfire in one or two cylinders with the unburned mix being lit in the exhaust by the firing cylinders. TR or DeTomasso?
  18. I tend to agree that the chances of ever collecting the beer debt are slim..... I’ve also noted that repairs are not always completely welcome and are seen as a loss of opportunity to get something new.....
  19. Small fire in the vicinity of the resistor I imagine........
  20. Kitchen fitter companies are mostly theiving bandits and their fitters are animals. Our built in one is a Siemens machine but the basest of specs and rather less effective than the stand-alone Bosch we had before we moved here. Our Bosch washing machine has now done 12 years. It’s definitely past it’s prime. However, in that time it’s only had to have a couple of enemas ( it can’t digest safety pins reliably), a set of motor brushes and a set of drum bearings. That last job was real cow as it involves splitting the drum. It also turned out, having put it all back together that the main source of the noise and vibration is the knackered dampers. Changing those involves splitting the drum too and I’m not doing that again!
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