Jump to content

Nick Jones

  • Content count

  • Donations

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


About Nick Jones

  • Rank
    Wise beyond his years.

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  1. Vitesse project

    Check the cables and earths straps are good - jump leads can be helpful for that. My ND reduction gear starter (ancient, ex scrapped Toyota) spins the engine very quickly. Nick
  2. Your experience with the "professionals" would seem to be more positive than some! I can't really comment as I've only used them for getting screens replaced on moderns and they've all been bonded. Until the Spitfire issues I've never had a problem fitting screens and I've done a reasonable number. I've even removed and refitted a laminate screen successfully (in a scrapyard!) though I did cut the old seal to get it out. Fitting the trim strips is a different story though........ That usually seems to involve development of special tools, exotic techniques, lots of cussing and sore fingers! Nick
  3. Windscreens and windscreen seals....... We wasted some serious time with the Spitfire - that was crappy incorrect seals - you may remember. Never even tried to fit the finisher strips - he preferred it black. Have to trial-fit a windscreen in the GT6 as we've been messing (repairing) the screen surround. I bought another seal from COH Baines as that worked in the Spitfire. Old age..... not yet mate, but it's creeping up. Some days it's tapping you on the shoulder........ Nick
  4. AFR Reading

    That's pretty much where mine is and that has lasted for years. It survived some pretty significant oil burning by the old engine too. Nick
  5. Repairing GRP

    Thanks, best get some in. Nick
  6. Repairing GRP

    Thanks. Which one exactly? I think there is a range of Gorilla Glues? Could have done with it to stick the A8 bumper back together after the Bambi incident! Nick
  7. EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation Return of a proportion of exhaust gases to the inlet manifold under some conditions. Spoils the combustion efficiency a bit, reduces combustion temperatures and reduces formation of nitrogen oxides. Used on both petrol and diesel engines. On diesels it can have a fairly disastrous effect on the state of the inlet manifold.... Younger son has inherited Chris's old Arosa. This is the 1.7 SDi normally aspirated diesel. When new it had 60 clattery horses. The S is for slow. It's been a pretty decent car. Now in it's 4th year of service with us. It actually has a pretty hard life and it needs to work (college is a 40 mile round trip) so we serviced it a couple of weeks ago ago discovered a couple gremlins. One was a small hole in the fuel feed pipe, just above the tank, which explained quite nicely why it was getting (even) slower and harder to start when the tank was nearly empty. We also took the cover off the inlet manifold which is just a big box, half aluminium, half plastic housing these weird curved ram-pipes. Which were absolutely rammed with soot stuck together with oil from the breather system. I ordered gaskets and we pulled it apart properly this afternoon. Yuck! Dismantling and reassembly were refreshingly easy after the nightmare that is the TT. Cleaning though Mechanical methods, caustic solution, water-based degreaser, carb cleaner...... It's tubes are now fairly clear and the EGR disabled. Apparently it goes better - not alot, but a bit. Amazing it ran at all. No 4 ram pipe was nearly blocked....... Nick
  8. Nick & Chris's Gt6 Mk 3

    Was fully welded last weekend, partly by me, partly by Chris. This weekend I have mostly been cutting hedges and fiddling with more modern machinery. However, I did find time to have a bit of a grindathon and the weld was ground back then further tidied with a power file. Then shone a light behind , drew a ring around all the pin holes (yes, there were a few). Reweld and grind back...... and repeat a couple of times. No more holes. Also a little shrinking went on at the far left where we had a bit of a bulge, which seemed to work pretty well. This is how it stands now. My next move will be to remove the lamp panel (only held in with self tappers) for repairs. I'll also take the opportunity to tidy up the bottom of the long weld and the welds from the previous repair. Once the lamp panel and refitted permanently I'll body-solder the seam areas. Nick
  9. 1966 Vespa 150 Super

    Looks good, and clearly has plenty of personality / attitude Nick
  10. Modern cars and POs

    Yeah..... I don't like 4 figure bills. Most of the daily fleet are only valued in 3 figures! Not so much courage as too mean to pay a garage. Nick
  11. Sounds promising. Basic timing should be right if you've got the trigger wheel in the right place and if it's just few degrees out than it should be possible to apply an offset in software to correct it. I guess you'll also need to set dwell - something I've not had to do as I'm still using EDIS. All you have to do then is to get the plug leads in the right order (and fire the coils in the right order). I always find this a challenge for some reason, though in my defence I'm usually working on sixes....... Nick
  12. Modern cars and POs

    It's hers........! It's a bit like driving a small armoured vehicle, albeit quite fast one. The 225 Quattros must be proper quick. Still look girly though! What is this "envy" Phil? You are obviously the smarter one here! If we keep it long enough to need another it's going to the garage! I already use them for the A6 cambelt as I did it once and that was a two day swearathon too. The crank pulley bolt on that is 200Nm + 270º. That is approaching marine standard. I could only manage 180º but it held for 75K until the next one! Pics of keyhole surgery From above below 7 year old Continental Nick
  13. There is too much information. Plus it's got so big that the people who know are bored with answering questions. The information will be out there but finding it...... Was alot easier when I started (12+ years ago ) Doing one part first is a good idea and ignition is probably the easier one set-up wise. Nick
  14. Modern cars and POs

    The idea is that it's more precise as it takes thread friction out of the equation. The 20lbs is the seating torque, then 90º with a known thread pitch gives a known amount of stretch..... You need an angle gauge - but I'm sure you know all this already. Quite often means one-time use bolts, but not always. Worth checking though. This bloody TT has angle torques on the engine mount bracket - and some of the bolts on it are "stretch" ones. Just did them up tight. No way to get an angle in there anyway. These guys think they're that smart they should try designing a bit of maintainability in. The plastic undertray is held on with 16 (sixteen) fasteners...... This has to come off for oil changes...... No wonder they think long-life oil and variable (for variable, read stupidly long and the car decides) service intervals are a good idea. I disagree. Fortunately it was only on the variable scheme for the first couple of years. It's running again. Found a few more things that need attention but nothing too urgent. Except tyres - currently running elderly Continentals, three of which have some strange edge wear going on, possibly because they've been run under-inflated or possibly because they're Continentals. The other is cracked to hell in the base of the tread even though it's the same age...... weird. Driving round in a '69 E-type........ Nick
  15. Hi Mike, Have you really not been on here before or do you have an old account you can't get to work anymore? Welcome anyway :-) I've not got as far as MS3 myself but if it fits the pattern of earlier versions you are going to need to define what the SPR4 is being used for. There will be a dropdown in Tuner Studio called something like "extras" or "additional outputs" but difficult to be precise as these can vary with firmware version and are not always very logical..... Nick