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Nick Jones

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About Nick Jones

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    Wise beyond his years.

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  1. Camshaft Bearings

    Seem to remember Vizard having something to say on the subject of boring out CD carbs (SU & Stromberg). Not sure it was all that positive though. I think combined with a lairy cam "street driving" would be tricky! Airflow difference between 6k and 8k is substantial mind..... Nick
  2. Camshaft Bearings

    Also, some of the compression ratios (for 6 cylinder for sure, maybe not so much with the 4) were the result of Kastner having to run 150 Strombergs, limiting flow and I think he was tuning in a similar way to the restricted inlet series with a high CR to compensate for never getting a truly full charge at high rpm. Dunno how he got round the carb issues you were fighting Alan....? I don't understand the combustion chamber you've posted Roger. Doesn't look like a 4 cyl chamber to start with - where's the spark plug? Nick
  3. LeJog 2017

    Interesting selection of vehicles - some a bit unexpected. Reckon it will have been particularly challenging this time due to weather! TR4 seems to have had a bit more than a moment.......... Compliments to the photographer for venturing out in nasty conditions! Nick
  4. Ian's Dolomite Sprint EFI

    Hmm, that's rusting in a fairly odd way. What are the screen pillars like? Full sills should give a nice end result but a fair amount of effort. Is this needed both sides? @ Flatter4, Thanks for the shift+return tip - that's been bugging me for ages! Nick
  5. Camshaft Bearings

    Those seals will probably fit. There are a whole bunch of very similar seals available. Witor uses one listed for some Austin Rover engine. http://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=CW2903 Others use ones intended for VAG. Pretty much anything that looks like that and is intended for an 8mm valve should work though some are fat enough to be a marginal fit inside the inner valve spring. Witor does some lovely guides too. I have some in the Vitesse. They are now more than 3 x the price I paid though, so the ones you suggest and a bit of simple lathe work seems like the way to go. That's what I did on the PI head also. This is information out there on how to do the 1300/1500 head properly. Some of it says to grind away the shape by the spark plug. Other say that the shape is there for a reason and is to concentrate the charge near the plug and thus left more or less alone. What can be done is to grind back the chamber wall around the inlet valve (including at the base of the plug ramp) to unshroud the valve. Obviously care is needed not to undercut the head gasket sealing area. This could be done on the exhaust side too if you still need more volume. Don't machine out the bottom of the chamber. Must be a later TR6 (CR) with the small exhaust valve. The earlier ones have the valves almost touching and cracking between the valves can be a problem. Nick
  6. 16P and PB calipers

    That spring thingy is nothing to do with a Girling 16 series caliper. Looks like it's from a modern sliding caliper. Nick
  7. 16P and PB calipers

    Pad rattle is much less of an issue when the pad platforms are there! Got ours (for Chris's GT6-braked Spitfire) from ANG on ebay for £120 ish incl. VAT and delivery, but I suspect they all come from the same place. They look fine but we had an issue with them that seemed like an impossible-to-fully-bleed system with a very long pedal. Eventually we realised it was actually the caliper pistons returning too much. This presumably due to too much friction between the piston and seal, causing the seal to roll too much. We got around it by removing the shims and pumping the pedal. This left just enough room to get the shims back - and instant pedal. Had to repeat a couple of times in the first 1500 miles as the pedal got long again but now (at ~ 2.5k) they seem to have settled. I know of at least two other definite cases of the same thing. Nick
  8. 16P and PB calipers

    Those pad platforms are probably the worst I've seen (including my 300+k Audi A6!). Useable? - I guess. Ideal - no. Agree P calipers (presume there is a narrow groove just inside the bores for the lip of the correct P seal?) with PB pistons. Also not ideal as the dust seal won't have been doing much. As you say, perfectly easy to rectify with correct pistons and seal kit. Bear in mind that you can buy new PB calipers for around £120/pair outright. Though they do seem to take a little time to settle. Anti-rattle/squeal is usually by stainless steel shims not springy things. Nick
  9. Camshaft Bearings

    Sorry about your mate...... Looks like you gave him a good send-off though. Topless in the snow?! Respect is due! Carry the wrong spares? You wouldn't be the first. Discovered in my prep for this years 10CR that I've been carrying the wrong bottom hose and fan belt for the last n years....... So much better to find these things out at home rather than half-way up an Alp though. Re valve sizes: 1. Check combustion chamber depths. I have it in my little monkey brain that the big valve heads were only ever 1300s from the factory (or at least that 1500 versions were very rare). 2. Rather than port another head, you may well find that there is enough meat in the inserts to open up the valve throats and recut the seats - it's only 1.5mm. 3. Measure the chamber volume properly after all valve work has been done and final valve height makes a big difference Nick
  10. My weekend so far

    +1 on that, though if he wants a manual that could take some finding as most were auto. Very tough little V8, previously much loved by the drag racers as they are very strong. Need to pick a good one though as rebuilds are fearsome expensive. Nick
  11. My weekend so far

    Followed an S-type saloon a few miles today in far west Devon. Metallic gunmetalish colour. Bloody lovely looking thing. I think I like the shape better than the Mk2..... Nick
  12. Camshaft Bearings

    I run a pop-up of 0.005" in the Vitesse engine (2L 6 obviously). No issues. Any advantages? Don't know....... goes well enough and runs very lean at cruise without pinking/hitching so maybe the squish is working! I did have to machine the piston crowns a little to achieve this as the numbers didn't quite work. Pretty sure I had to remove a bit more than 0.030" to fully clean up the fire-ring areas. The advantage was that after a couple of test builds to determine the most equal piston/rod combinations and some careful measuring I ended up with dead even pop-up across all 6. On the PI (2.5 6 obviously) I wasn't looking for zero-deck or pop-up, but the deck did have a very light skim. Initially to see how flat it was and then a bit more to get it flat. Total removal 0.005" ish. Didn't re-cut the recesses, which did give me some concern about head gasket sealing, but in the event it worked just fine. Nothing to add on the valve springs. Pretty sure that the TR5/red set is what I have in the Vitesse. PI I re-used the OE ones as they were all still the same length......... Nick
  13. Health.....

    Had post op consultation yesterday. Histology fine (simple cyst) and healing well. Discharged. Mind you, was healing even better until an unexpected and rather violent sneeze did it a mischief Tuesday last week. Did make my eyes water and set me back about a week. On the mend now though. Big backlog of work to catch up on. If I don't get that door re-skinned before Chris get back in 10 days...... I get my ass kicked...... Roger, if you can build a diff that doesn't whine (or explode) I can find a couple for you to work your magic on....... The one I tried (good few years ago nod) didn't go that well - howled like banshee. Nick
  14. Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    I think it might have been Tim Ward (Club Triumph Forum) made a batch of those. Was quite a while ago now....... He's been poorly but did pop up on the CT forum a couple of months back. He's Worcester way too IIRC...... Nick
  15. Vitesse/GT6 MK1 2 Ltr EFI Manifold

    I'd forgotten what a gruesome object that inlet is......... Though I've met people who claim that their Solex equipped Vit 1600 went very well and was good on fuel....... I always wonder what they were comparing it to. Standard Herald 1200 or Austin A30 maybe! Not sure the above sketch really achieves the variable length objective and the need for turbulence in manifolds is, I think, more relevant with carbs when you are trying to keep the fuel in suspension. I've been pretty happy with my much simpler design so my vote would be to lop the runners off, add injector pockets, bell-mouths and a simple plenum and throttle body. Chris Witor had an injection manifold made for the Mk1 engine years ago. A thing of beauty (and expense) in TIG welded aluminium with long, tapered machined runners. I think there was a pic on his old website but can't see it now. I have seen it in the flesh, years ago, even before I'd made mine but AFAIK it's never been used. I did show him my wonderfully crude Mk2 version in action a couple of years later and he managed to be polite about it. Nick