Jump to content

Nick Jones

Subscriber!
  • Content count

    7,729
  • Donations

    $50.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

About Nick Jones

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.shadetreegarage.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I wouldn't rule out an old machine or Windows XP purely on age grounds. XP is one of the better MS efforts and in fact Megajolt (and Megasquirt for that matter) date from similar times and also use aged tech. My "car" laptop is a very elderly, though not much used Acer, running XP without even built-in wifi. Does the job fine.... The issue is that more recent interconnecting cables and the like might not come with drivers that will talk to XP. There are usually ways around this though they can take a while to unravel....... Of course, some of the USB - RS232 adapters simply don't work. I have that T shirt as well. Nick
  2. Nick Jones

    HS6 piddling petrol

    Exactly this....... a US feature for reducing "fugitive emissions" from the float chambers. Nick
  3. Nick Jones

    Vespa smallframe

    These things are sent to try you. And do. "Blue coloured hiatus" Yeah. Maybe some small tools ricochetting of the walls too. Can relate. Nick
  4. Nick Jones

    Spitfire Drive Shafts

    My first thought is that the unnamed suppliers supplier is not the manufacturer. One wonders how long the chain is, who actually commissioned the manufacture (one of the usual UK suspects or maybe Bastuck?) and where they are actually made. Also whether anyone in the chain does any QC........ though I reckon I might know the answer to that........
  5. Nick Jones

    HS6 piddling petrol

    Probably just one carb and probably a lump of crude in the needle valve. A sharp smack on the side of the float chamber is sometimes enough to resolve it. A slightly less probable concern is that ethanol has eaten your float and its sunk. Do you have an inline filter? Nick
  6. Did you say XP? .......that is quite old now. You may well have a driver problem. Presumably the USB ports do work for some things -memory sticks and so on? The MJ presumably was connected via USB- RS232 adapter? Picoscope perhaps not? Reinstalling Windows isn't huge fun. Nick
  7. Nick Jones

    We are not worthy....

    Top one is OE? How tight was that spline? PM me by all means Nick
  8. Nick Jones

    Vitesse project

    Yeee haaa! Now get out there and drive it....... Nick
  9. Nick Jones

    We are not worthy....

    This isn't (just) about warranty - it's public safety. Nick
  10. magic! or witchcraft! Thanks for that John - something I knew absolutely nothing about until I watched that....... I was aware that mercury + planes = very bad, but not why! I still have no real understanding of why a hairy monster rises out of the aluminium, but at least I now know it does! Nick
  11. Nick Jones

    We are not worthy....

    How tight was it on the splines? The OE ones are a serious press fit......... because they need to be. The people making these don't know what they are doing - which is scary Genuine "Nuns and kittens will die" (along with anyone else who gets in the way) situation. Do the TSSC sell these - because if they do I think a formal approach should be made..... I also think you need to raise a safety concern with your supplier - with the comment that "no, you definitely don't want a like for like replacement"! Those pics need to go on all the Triumph forums so people are aware. If 6mm bolt is a rattling good fit...... try a 1/4" one. But the bottom line is that if the splines are not a properly tight fit in the first place whatever is put in their will eventually fail - although most things will do better than a roll-pin. Nick
  12. Nick Jones

    We are not worthy....

    It's only money....... unless the boss finds out! I'd stick with the 3.63. The 1500 makes torque and torque likes tall gearing. Plus you do long distance, so a relaxed cruise is important. UJs..... the same basic dimensions are available in many forms, even from the same manufacturer, for different purposes. High torque, low speed; low speed, high torque; with grease nipples (pointless IMO, you never get grease to all 4 points); without grease nipples and so on. Buy Hardy Spicer or GKN and buy the ones listed for Landrover Freelander (listed by Landrover or the UJ maker, not the eBay seller!) and you've done the best you can. on the updated ones they could have chosen to use the next size up (as used on TR and saloon driveshafts, Stag propshafts etc) but they don't seem to have done this. Nick
  13. Nick Jones

    Engine build from box of bits

    Hello Scotty, Welcome Costs from the likes of Neil Raven Smith and Prestige will be fierce unless you have exchange items. Sets of parts do come up on ebay from time to time and even the saloon ones are suitable for rebuild/exchange. Prices are going up though. Note that there are two styles of manifold, early PI saloons (up to 73 ish), TR5 and CP TR6 use the early ones with single balance tubes and later PI saloons (125bhp ones) and CR TR6 use the later twin balance tube style. The early ones are correct for CP and generally preferred by most. Random example on ebay - these are the later ones - seems alot for the throttle bodies, injectors and some of the linkage...... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR6-Classic-Fuel-Injection-Inlet-Manifolds-2-5-PI-Free-Global-Postage/332426723684?epid=6007954462&hash=item4d662d4164:g:TzsAAOSwa81Z8fuC and a listing for a full overhaul (you have to provide a set as exchange) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TR5-6-150-132bhp-pi-system-reconditiond-exchange/142901584476?_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D53526%26meid%3Dda931114dc884c6cbbb853b1b30836c5%26pid%3D100752%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D142896945043%26itm%3D142901584476&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982 Bits like this can be hard to find..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR6-PI-distributor-and-metering-unit-pedestal/253811194104?hash=item3b185378f8:g:zqQAAOSwSelbcCI6 The internals (mostly the springs) of the metering unit vary between the various engine specs and may need to be altered again if you are planning on any engine mods (esp. different cam). You say you need a head to replace the US spec one. Is this because it has the "strange" inlet port spacing or just because it is not stamped with the expected number (516816) for TR6? Not all US heads have the different port spacing and if the head you have has the European port spacing there is no reason why it can't be used as a basis for your rebuild though it may need a good skim! As regards the rest of the engine, while you can get an idea of the condition by eyeball, bores, pistons and crankpins (as a minimum) really need to be properly measured. I'm assuming you don't have the necessary micrometers and bore gauges for this, so your choices are to buy them and learn how to use them, or to take the parts to an engine machine shop for measurement. Nick
  14. Nick Jones

    We are not worthy....

    Eh? The diameter at the outer end has to reduce to provide the taper to match it to the standard hub - and this taper provides the majority of the fit strength and transmits most of the torque. The taper isn't really the problem. The problem historically is the keyway which extends inboard to the edge of the hub and is a straight, open slot with sharp edges and corners. On the uprated version pictured (though not very clearly), the slot appears shorter (and thus not extending into the potential flex-zone at the inner edge of the hub and is cut as a closed slot with rounded ends. Both factors which should reduce it's potential to act as a stress raiser. It's not stated, but also possible that the shaft is not surface hardened. It doesn't need to be as the roller bearing runs on a hardened sleeve, not directly on the shaft itself. This may also help the toughness of the shaft. Provided the spline fit and pinning arrangement at the inner end is done correctly, I reckon these are a substantial improvement over OE /OE repro, albeit at about 5x the price. Also not clear whether they are offered in long and short versions...... Nick
  15. Nick Jones

    We are not worthy....

    Relevant TSSC forum thread relating to a different failure mode http://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/3821-sheared-halfshaft-scary/ CDD info on their "uprated" shafts (via TSSC) and link to CDD website, which is light on technical information, but does show prices.......... best sit down first! However, cheaper than demolishing your car and whatever damage to occupants and whomever else is unlucky enough to be in the way. http://www.classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/pdf/CDD Price List, Feb 16 all prod Net and Gross.pdf (Prices from 2016?) Nick
×