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JamesR

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About JamesR

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  1. Well with the post office attempting to destroy all remaining British business by making unaffordable to use, things will certainly get a bit tasty. I don't think anyone will stop to think how much meat is on you Nick when everyone turns rabid and hungry.
  2. I'm hoping esso add LPG to their local pumps to be honest. It's just silly. I guess I can't just silver solder up a nice gas tank made of a lot of copper tubes going around the inside of the boot, so there's still room for a sandwich from tescos in the back. I went to the petrol station to buy tobacco today, big queues, no-one actually paying at the counter oddly. Basically, don't watch tv Nick... Young females nurses are nice, but you may get meds...
  3. (complete hijack now). If I hone my cylinders with crank etc in place am I going to just drop metal and grit into the oil? I know I have to remove the oil first, and can run more through again, but can this be done effectively with just the head off and pistons out. Or will you just be grinding all your bearings in the future. I'm not sure what I want to do myself. I'm tempted just to get new rings and see what the compression is like. I could measure the bores, but a set of rings is cheaper than an internal micrometer. I could take it all apart, not be able to drive it for god knows how long even longer, inquire after one of those 98bhp gt camshafts, if he ever made them, or they're just a statistic, sort the gearbox and whack on the side drafts and wonder why I have no money. Hmm.
  4. Interesting, the mix is cheaper than pure, that's for sure. I'll have to have a look for the boc stuff. I just don't get any time on my hands. I may yet make some nice manifolds for dellortos. I'm getting somewhere with casting these days, I hope to be asking about flares or tapers for them and little mounts etc one day.
  5. Magnificent, but if you were after one it was a pretty good price I feel. Mind you the prices have probably dropped out of these things since I last looked. Took me ages to sort the bonnet on my car. A project for a fetter and a fiddler.
  6. Teglerizer was certainly keen on the idea and then bunged in a little electronics box filter on the 1300. Personally I tried removing the oil filler cap and the oil running along the bottom of the exhaust ceased. This suggests to me to relieve pressure. If the manifold suction helps the different diameter hoses would act quite well in the old Pcv system, teglerizer virtually suggests this with his spaghetti junction and multi valve per hose system. Its extremely useful. To me Jimes didn't explain what he was trying to achieve. Nick, you realise you've probably nailed the issue on the head, are we talking about a system for a car with good compression or poor compression. This to my mind makes a difference of how you go about the system. I.e. how much pressure do you have and what affect is it having.
  7. Doesn't putting a pipe from the rocker cover to a catch can supposed to relive blowby. My recent thoughts were that there would be suck from the manifold on the original oil system via the pcv that creates excessive pressure. Or is it purely engine related? Not sure how this helps but my thoughts were as such.
  8. £4,200. Not much for the efforts and the T6 shell and the K series. No MOT doesn't help.
  9. I've not been following things Dave, but congrats on your freedom. Keep it.
  10. Thanks. I've been looking over it and had originally thought he had wider oversized rings, but they're not they are just oversize. Surely then they can't fit properly to the piston. Aren't oversized rings oversized for oversized pistons, or are all pistons grooved to the same diameter but have a larger diameter. The effectiveness depends on the depth of the groove. It depends how much it matters. Technically it's all tiny increments, it's just that it's enough to lead to poor compression. Perhaps +.010 around the piston doesn't actually matter. They will seat and seal. There's supposed to be a gap anyway I thought having read some topics, so an exact match doesn't make sense. It needs to be less. It seems. Thanks for the eBay tip. Frost do some for £20-30. I tried to get some info fom them, but thy just refered me back to their site. Not too helpful. I might do what your suggesting, unless anyone has anything positive to say about oversized rings, the definite ese of replacing pistons. I could measure them on a pair of verniers. How much can a piston be worn by. Cheers James
  11. Interesting stuff. I was sure it was straight argon, as for the amps, as long as I only weld thin metal and keep it to 100 amps ish, it'll be fine. I had a word with an electrician, he was ok with it. It is rated at 16 amp though. Sorry for the late replies.
  12. I have finally restored by carbs to the side of the engine to find that strangely my oil problems haven't disappeared and knowing there's no real compression, its time for a looksy into the engine. Having browsed a bit, I'm quite interested in Teglerizers new piston job. But basically I'd prefer to just hone and re ring. Nevertheless I need to measure up first. Hopefully I'll find my compression gauge... And double check the values. Presumably I'd check the cylinder diameters and ovality. Within what circumstances can I just replace the rings? Presumably the pistons need replacing if they are under their size. People seem to do this as standard. I don't see this as a must. What kind of tolerance can you go for to grind rings before you rebore? What Paul is saying is that you can get in between ring sizes I presume. http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/75w_newrings.htm So can you get +.090..? These run at .2000" from regular sellers and then you can get them from TSI .21, .22, .23 etc...then. And it's just a mild grind for the thousandths... Doesn't this screw with the hardness? Is a 3 leg honer going to really cause problems? I'm tempted. I'd quite like the larger one... I'm presuming vacuum pressure from the manifold screws with the blowby. That whole setup is complex, then the mk3 effort is an inline filter... Anyone have any thoughts? I basically need to measure things first.
  13. Have you got 16amps on a wall socket?. I just bought one like that at 200 amps. Seems to work fine at 100 amps. I haven't pushed it. It all depends on the thickness of the material you need to weld how many amp you use. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TIG-200AMP-AC-DC-PULSED-INVERTER-WELDING-MACHINE-WELDER-/220952414518?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3371ca4936 These come through reasonably priced for a basic Chinese effort. There are Chinese rebrands and posh expensive ones. Miller weld has useful tips on bits and pieces, but you probably know what your after. Extra costs were tungsten tips of the correct size for the work, decent gloves, filler rods, commando plug and artic cable. The sod is about doing the electrical work yourself. You can't really add things to the consumer box, but you can change a plugsocket. But if you'd need electrical changes, definitely ask a welding electric forum. People run them under powered. The argon is pricey as well. But it is good, though I show little promise and have the aluminium stacked up already.
  14. Just read this bit. You probably know that they are not too hot on testing stuff in China, and the Eu likes this and that to be tested, which is always expensive. Don't know about exhaust manifolds though. Basically £100 a pop for exactly what you want. Double your money easy, if you can sell enough, but I am not aiming to tell you what to do, or you just asked and found out their pricing. But its always worth knowing exactly how much you would need to test things if necessary and the lovely taxes you have to pay. You can get lumbered, not so nice. Still sounds good.
  15. Shame there are no jobs in America either really. I have rust, that's gotta be worth something. Dave, would you not just use an angle grinder? Stalk them and weld the clamp onto their van.
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