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Nick B.

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  1. Workshop Designs

    My garage is cold and drafty. I like your idea of a well insulated and heated workshop :-) The one thing I like most in the workshop is light, and plenty of it. I prefer lights from different angles, both ceiling mounted light but also on the walls, so you don't shadow for yourself. So lightning:, armatures like the one pictured. Plenty of them both on the wall and ceiling. I prefer the closed type as they are easier to clean. For the workbench it must be accompanied by a swiveling light. Cheers Nick
  2. Mating new gearbox to used overdrive

    Hi Nick Thank you. It is assuring to know that things does not explode on the workbench when I take them apart. I really must resist the urge to twiddle the flange. I most certainly would have done it if I had not been warned. The Mad Welder kan confirm I am quite a fiddler who never leaves stuff untouched. The new gearbox is one I bought from GT a few years ago, and I judge it is a good time to put it into service. Hopefully it will last better than the old one, where the new china-made syncros on third gear really is not up to the job. And most definitely the magnets and filters will be cleaned. As you perhaps remember from 10CR my OD decided to retire itself from service about 5 hours after start. I suggest an electrical error though. It has always been a nice shifter without hesitation. Less than 1.5 seconds to engage, and instant disengagement. Cheers Nick
  3. Hi After the 10CR, I decided my 3-reail D-type ODgearbox needed some service. The syncro on 3rd gear are worn, and the change is not smooth, but requires a bit of fettling - or brutality. I have a complete rubuild OD-gearbox I bought from GT a few years ago, and now want to put the thing into service. Question is - is it straight forward to remove OD-unit from the old gearbox and put it onto the new box? Any traps to look out for? Cheers Nick
  4. Go To Last Post

    I think it is a question of patience. The machice seems to have forgotten last read post on the old forum, but picks up nicely at last read post on second visit to a thread in the new forum. At least for me :-) Probably some kind of cookie thing?? Keep up the good work. Cheers Nick
  5. 10 Countries 2017

    It was a great run - I hope to do it again once :-) Now - let's try this forum, sorry for the mess, just trying to upload :-)... Lunch somewhere in france Letting the car cool of while having lunch in the swiss alps. Lovely italian styled place. Chatting with two chaps in a red TR7 Bumped into Roy (amoingst others) on a small spot in the alps Entering Livigno after a nice up the hill. Managed to catch up with the TR and do some overtaking on the downhill Passed this hotel in livigno - I have stayed there twice for skiing trips. Looks different in the summer! And finally arrived at Rolduc. Was the second car to arrive - and the first car to arrive that had followed the routebook. Car had been properly whipped ....
  6. Low Oilpressure At Tick-Over

    Hi all Thanks for the very good feedback. It was caught in the middle of the server-changeover, so unfortunately I had not had the possibility to reply. Anyway - here goes I trust the gauge as very low pressure corresponds with the green light (fortunately I only witnessed this light flickering once, and killed the engine immediately) . My thoughts were initially with the oil pressure relief valve, and I have been working my way through a combination of different plungers and spring without this affecting the low pressure unfortunately. I have been through different filter without any change in start up pressure. The latest incarnation is a K&N filter with the 3/4 adaptor. I am ashamed to admit I never got around to fit this as the original 5/8 stud is hopelessly stuck in the block, and I could not get it out. Oh Nick - I trust you are right. I hope the NOS pump I have on the shelf has better clearances. This will be interesting to measure out on the new pump - just as well as measuring the old pump once removed. I just checked out the Witor pump. It seems only fit for the large engines - not dspitfire. Am I correct on this? Would be a sublime solution if it could be adapted to a spitfire. But now - at lreast I know where to find a pump for my GT6 :-) Cheers Nick
  7. My engine were rebuild some 10.000 miles ago, and has after the rebuild always suffered from oilpressureproblems. The main problems are: 1: Appr. 5 seconds to build oilpressure. I have tried different oilfilters without result 2: Low pressure - less than 10 psi on hot tick-over. About 40-50 psi @3000 rpm when hot After completing 10CR last week, I decided action must be taken. Therefore I am pulling the engine this winter (if time permits) and hope I can escape by changing the shells. A NOS oilpump has been purchased and will hopefully help a bit. Any suggestions for what to check for when the engine is open? Cheers Nick
  8. OK - we are getting close now. Managed to get the soft-top back on, and 'repair' the clear plastic with some duct-tape. Within the last few days I have managed to get the car almost back together again. The door weather-trim is in place (lot of swearing), and there are only three things left on the list : Fix leaking fuel tank. Adjust door window-winder mechanism in both sides, and figure out why horn does not work. I trust the Mad Welder will assist me in the horn trouble shooting, as he is the mastermind behind the electrics in the car. When these things has been taken car of, I can give the car a small test drive, and then of to the MOT-station :-) OK - we are getting close now. Managed to get the soft-top back on, and 'repair' the clear plastic with some duct-tape.
  9. Excellent - Screws and nuts has been ordered :-) Cheers Nick
  10. Vitesse project

    Great progress :-) Be carefull with the lift - I have seen a the result of a spitfire front that were rammed into the ceiling....... Clever thinking with the direction-indicator on the window-winder. I keep experimenting Cheers Nick
  11. Hi all Car keeps fighting back. I purchased rivets today which where small enough to fit inside the buttons for the soft-top (the male buttons which are attached to the car. It worked quite well for 6 out of 8, but I came to a stop with the B-post cappings. I am having troubles with the ones on the B-post which are going through the B-post cappings. My problem is that the hole in the B-post appears to be to large for the rivet, and if I take a beefier rivet, I cannot press the buttons together. How do you work around this? Any attempt leaves me with a button and a rivet - but unfortunately not attached to the car. I managed to remove the wheels, which are getting new tyres tomorrow. Cheers Nick
  12. Thanks for the kind words A few more days with the car has been a bit of a struggle. The car seems to fight back all the time - nothing goes in easy! For example - rear brake cylinders. First the bleed screw snapped of, and I had to replace the cylinder. The new cylinder appeared to be leaking through the piston? So another new cylinder in. Of course it was the left hand rear cylinder, so a loft of brakefluid had to med moved. Fortunately the third time was lucky, and now the cylinder is working. Then the the fueltank. It has been filled for two months with no problems. Then saturday I arrive to the garage to find the boot swimming with fuel dripping from the connection in the bottom of the tank. Odd - why now? And of course the fuel removed the fresh paint and sealer in the boot. Still - I managed to install H-support, radio, carpets and seatbelts (though seatbelts not in picture) My wife - the 10CR co-driver took the battle with door weatherstrips, and after a lot of swearing she managed to get it together I took a go on the sidewindow - but had troubles getting the window in alignment with the front windscreen. The distance between window and front is to wide.I am not really motivated to spend to much time on this - after 10CR I will be fitting GT6 sidewindows to the car. I tried to fit the buttons for the soft-top, but realised I did not have the right rivets. This I realised after putting a decent scratch in the fresh paint when the rivet-gun slipped while fitting a to big rivet for the button. No pics of that one. I just decided that this was plenty for one day. Did I mention I could not get the horn working? Well - upwards and onwards! Cheers Nick
  13. Hi all I am back from a few years of silence when it comes to the spitfire. To recap the story of my spit, it underwent a nut and bolt resto between 2003-2008. The result were quite nice, went well and handled nicely, Longer halfshafts Swing spring lowered rear ½ inch Lowered front 380 springs AVO shocks Flowed head Balanced engine Overdrive (now working..) HS4 carbs I drove the car fairly much until 2012 where some bubbles started forming under the paint at the rearlights. Nothing serious. I removed the paint and found small rustblisters. It appeared that water had somehow managed to get under the paint - the paintknowing guys said it was proplerly down to bad prepping. The car were in 2013 sent of to a painter who would correct the small areas with rust. Nothing big, should be fairly easy. Then troubled started The painter unfortunately suffered from some kind of mental breakdown and couldn't remember where he had put the car. I found the spitfire in a forrest - half sandblasted and quite rusty. Unfortunately he had attempted sandblasting without removing interior, so everything were in a sorry state. This kind of left me shocked with very little trust in the human race. I know the is a picture of the car as it were found - but it isn't something that I have held onto - perhaps The Mad Welder has a copy of said picture? After recovering from this I dismantled the car completely. The Mad Welder kindly repaired damages to the car, and then the tub were sent to a professional blaster and metalized. Next step were sending it to a proper painter (who actually painted the car nicely - a first for everything....) For the last year I have slowly been putting the car together, and hopefully it will be ready for 10CR, which have been the motivation for getting the car back together. I can understand we have a few others on here who are attending 10CR As of yesterday the car looked like this The electrics has been sorted and are working properly, and the engine does not seem to have suffered from the harsh treatment. After cleaning up the carbs it started and was able to produce a satisfying oilpressure. So I more or less just need to refit interior trim and then I will be ready for 10CR. Cross your fingers Cheers Nick
  14. Vitesse project

    Hi JC Yes, been very quiet for a while. I had an incident with a painter four years ago who unfortunately suffered from some kind of mental breakdown and couldn't remember where he had put the car. I found the spitfire in a forrest - half sandblasted and quite rusty. Unfortunately he had attempted sandblasting without removing interior, so everything were in a sorry state. I took a deep breath, stored the car for some years but has now been restoring for a year with great help and support from The Mad Welder. It has been getting nescessary repairs before a high quality blasting a metalizing with zink. Then a nice pro respray, and actually starts to look like a car. Judging from the pics you are slightly ahead of me getting the car ready for 10CR. Good news on mine are that electrics have nbeen sorted out and are now working properly. The engine also starts and run. I had a slight setback on the brakes. The bleednipple on rear cylinder broke of and I could not removed the nipple, so I had to replace the cylinder. Sorted now though. Hopefully rest of the brakesystem is OK. Next issue to sort is more or less all trim, which has been cleaned and repaired, but need to be installed. I had hoped to get the megajolt running, but lack of time prevents me. I need to replace the alternator before connedting the MJ. last time I fired it up the MJ board were instantly fried by a powerspike which I suspect came from the indian luucas repro alternator. So I will not try that again before the denso alternator has been installed. Cheers Nick
  15. Vitesse project

    Only 48 days, 17 hours, 36 minutes, 10 seconds until the Ten Countries Run! Get preparing! If it any comfort you seem to be ahead of me with preps for 10CR! Cheers Nick