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Nick B.

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About Nick B.

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    SAVE THE GREEN - KEEP POMWAH GREEN

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  1. Hello John I am sad to say that it is also my experience. I have more or less given up on the forum. I used to open the forum in a seperate browser-window, and only show new unread threads. Now I cannot figure out how to open the forum without all the club-shop clutter in the right side of my monitor. Next I cannot figure out how to show only unread threads. It is truly sad - I hope they work it out along the way - change is usually tricky. Cheers Nick
  2. So the saga continues After giving the Spitfire a well deserved flogging round europe in september, I have decided to pull the engine apart. This for two reasons: 1: Alarmingly low oil-pressure at tick-over on an engine with less than 15K on it. 2: Gearbox is crunching on 3rd syncro - must be fixed (new box in stock - quick fix) Last night the engine came out - after a few hours, the engine were out, and cleaning could begin. Kicked myself hard when I realised that I had forgot to undo the large nut on the crank. Plan is to: Clean engine very thoroughly remove crank, have it measured and perhaps go 1 size up in shells New shells I will leave the pistons in situ. Cheers Nick
  3. Driving Habits Of The Aged.....

    Actually - it is not just a valid license that is needed - you are not allowed to teach the the young'uns if you have had a (serious) speeding offence within the last 10 years. I am a very defensive driver, so unfortunately I cannot teach the household teens to drive :-) Cheers Nick
  4. Workshop Designs

    My garage is cold and drafty. I like your idea of a well insulated and heated workshop :-) The one thing I like most in the workshop is light, and plenty of it. I prefer lights from different angles, both ceiling mounted light but also on the walls, so you don't shadow for yourself. So lightning:, armatures like the one pictured. Plenty of them both on the wall and ceiling. I prefer the closed type as they are easier to clean. For the workbench it must be accompanied by a swiveling light. Cheers Nick
  5. Mating new gearbox to used overdrive

    Hi Nick Thank you. It is assuring to know that things does not explode on the workbench when I take them apart. I really must resist the urge to twiddle the flange. I most certainly would have done it if I had not been warned. The Mad Welder kan confirm I am quite a fiddler who never leaves stuff untouched. The new gearbox is one I bought from GT a few years ago, and I judge it is a good time to put it into service. Hopefully it will last better than the old one, where the new china-made syncros on third gear really is not up to the job. And most definitely the magnets and filters will be cleaned. As you perhaps remember from 10CR my OD decided to retire itself from service about 5 hours after start. I suggest an electrical error though. It has always been a nice shifter without hesitation. Less than 1.5 seconds to engage, and instant disengagement. Cheers Nick
  6. Hi After the 10CR, I decided my 3-reail D-type ODgearbox needed some service. The syncro on 3rd gear are worn, and the change is not smooth, but requires a bit of fettling - or brutality. I have a complete rubuild OD-gearbox I bought from GT a few years ago, and now want to put the thing into service. Question is - is it straight forward to remove OD-unit from the old gearbox and put it onto the new box? Any traps to look out for? Cheers Nick
  7. Go To Last Post

    I think it is a question of patience. The machice seems to have forgotten last read post on the old forum, but picks up nicely at last read post on second visit to a thread in the new forum. At least for me :-) Probably some kind of cookie thing?? Keep up the good work. Cheers Nick
  8. 10 Countries 2017

    It was a great run - I hope to do it again once :-) Now - let's try this forum, sorry for the mess, just trying to upload :-)... Lunch somewhere in france Letting the car cool of while having lunch in the swiss alps. Lovely italian styled place. Chatting with two chaps in a red TR7 Bumped into Roy (amoingst others) on a small spot in the alps Entering Livigno after a nice up the hill. Managed to catch up with the TR and do some overtaking on the downhill Passed this hotel in livigno - I have stayed there twice for skiing trips. Looks different in the summer! And finally arrived at Rolduc. Was the second car to arrive - and the first car to arrive that had followed the routebook. Car had been properly whipped ....
  9. Low Oilpressure At Tick-Over

    Hi all Thanks for the very good feedback. It was caught in the middle of the server-changeover, so unfortunately I had not had the possibility to reply. Anyway - here goes I trust the gauge as very low pressure corresponds with the green light (fortunately I only witnessed this light flickering once, and killed the engine immediately) . My thoughts were initially with the oil pressure relief valve, and I have been working my way through a combination of different plungers and spring without this affecting the low pressure unfortunately. I have been through different filter without any change in start up pressure. The latest incarnation is a K&N filter with the 3/4 adaptor. I am ashamed to admit I never got around to fit this as the original 5/8 stud is hopelessly stuck in the block, and I could not get it out. Oh Nick - I trust you are right. I hope the NOS pump I have on the shelf has better clearances. This will be interesting to measure out on the new pump - just as well as measuring the old pump once removed. I just checked out the Witor pump. It seems only fit for the large engines - not dspitfire. Am I correct on this? Would be a sublime solution if it could be adapted to a spitfire. But now - at lreast I know where to find a pump for my GT6 :-) Cheers Nick
  10. My engine were rebuild some 10.000 miles ago, and has after the rebuild always suffered from oilpressureproblems. The main problems are: 1: Appr. 5 seconds to build oilpressure. I have tried different oilfilters without result 2: Low pressure - less than 10 psi on hot tick-over. About 40-50 psi @3000 rpm when hot After completing 10CR last week, I decided action must be taken. Therefore I am pulling the engine this winter (if time permits) and hope I can escape by changing the shells. A NOS oilpump has been purchased and will hopefully help a bit. Any suggestions for what to check for when the engine is open? Cheers Nick
  11. OK - we are getting close now. Managed to get the soft-top back on, and 'repair' the clear plastic with some duct-tape. Within the last few days I have managed to get the car almost back together again. The door weather-trim is in place (lot of swearing), and there are only three things left on the list : Fix leaking fuel tank. Adjust door window-winder mechanism in both sides, and figure out why horn does not work. I trust the Mad Welder will assist me in the horn trouble shooting, as he is the mastermind behind the electrics in the car. When these things has been taken car of, I can give the car a small test drive, and then of to the MOT-station :-) OK - we are getting close now. Managed to get the soft-top back on, and 'repair' the clear plastic with some duct-tape.
  12. Excellent - Screws and nuts has been ordered :-) Cheers Nick
  13. Vitesse project

    Great progress :-) Be carefull with the lift - I have seen a the result of a spitfire front that were rammed into the ceiling....... Clever thinking with the direction-indicator on the window-winder. I keep experimenting Cheers Nick
  14. Hi all Car keeps fighting back. I purchased rivets today which where small enough to fit inside the buttons for the soft-top (the male buttons which are attached to the car. It worked quite well for 6 out of 8, but I came to a stop with the B-post cappings. I am having troubles with the ones on the B-post which are going through the B-post cappings. My problem is that the hole in the B-post appears to be to large for the rivet, and if I take a beefier rivet, I cannot press the buttons together. How do you work around this? Any attempt leaves me with a button and a rivet - but unfortunately not attached to the car. I managed to remove the wheels, which are getting new tyres tomorrow. Cheers Nick
  15. Thanks for the kind words A few more days with the car has been a bit of a struggle. The car seems to fight back all the time - nothing goes in easy! For example - rear brake cylinders. First the bleed screw snapped of, and I had to replace the cylinder. The new cylinder appeared to be leaking through the piston? So another new cylinder in. Of course it was the left hand rear cylinder, so a loft of brakefluid had to med moved. Fortunately the third time was lucky, and now the cylinder is working. Then the the fueltank. It has been filled for two months with no problems. Then saturday I arrive to the garage to find the boot swimming with fuel dripping from the connection in the bottom of the tank. Odd - why now? And of course the fuel removed the fresh paint and sealer in the boot. Still - I managed to install H-support, radio, carpets and seatbelts (though seatbelts not in picture) My wife - the 10CR co-driver took the battle with door weatherstrips, and after a lot of swearing she managed to get it together I took a go on the sidewindow - but had troubles getting the window in alignment with the front windscreen. The distance between window and front is to wide.I am not really motivated to spend to much time on this - after 10CR I will be fitting GT6 sidewindows to the car. I tried to fit the buttons for the soft-top, but realised I did not have the right rivets. This I realised after putting a decent scratch in the fresh paint when the rivet-gun slipped while fitting a to big rivet for the button. No pics of that one. I just decided that this was plenty for one day. Did I mention I could not get the horn working? Well - upwards and onwards! Cheers Nick
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