toofast2race

I cleaned out a blocked heater matrix with white vinegar - magic stuff for loosening rusty muck - flush with water then fill with Toyota spec red OAT coolant

Tom Key runs a Newman hybrid cam PH3/PH2 40-80 70-30 - same overlap as a TR5 cam works well on injection and decent exhaust - he uses the TRE 6-3-1 - he has seen 185-195bhp (flywheel estimated) on Vesey dyno

Nick - I'm running MS2 V2.89 - would love active idle control but haven't worked out how yet - I run an IAC valve which progressively lowers cold start idle

Nice one - just need some thick tape to bundle up all that wiring and shes a good un

I wouldn't use it - AE/Glaicier bearings are OK - I used a set labeled as VP but stamped with a G before I really understood these things (vandervell were taken over and towards the end used VP boxes for Glaciers) for 4 or 5 years in my track 2.5 - they were mint when I reshelled (I usually reshell every 6-7 years with my track car) Cleanliness is the critical issue to bearing life - most wear is during the first few miles of a badly cleaned new assembly

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/performance-tuning/clutch-gearbox-drivetrain/close-ratio-gear-set.html I think most CR Sprint gear sets were effectively this but with a Dolly input shaft - gives a very high first gear especially with a 3.45 diff I have this gear set but with the lower first gear out of a saloon box

I got this off TR Enterprises - you can see the gear tooth count above the ratio

I've used Saab Sachs covers very successfully - lovely light clutch that will spin both wheels easily with my LSD

He used large strategically place inverted Merc Bosch filters to stop aeration reaching MU http://www.bits4benz.com/product_p/0024771701.htm

I'm here - although not much over the next week or two - 1 and 3 is wierd - Markus GT6M had some good theory proved in practice of aerated fuel lines - clear nylon allows this to be seen - Bosch pumps are the guilty culprit especially the one way valve on their exit - may be causing lean mixture on 1 and 3 - that would cause lean misfire

Properly big ones!

My experience of DS3000 is amazing bite from cold and completely consistent brake force even when toasty - this is on a PI saloon running Volvo calipers and vented discs - the pads were re drilled ones for a Ferrari 328 or Aston DBSV8 - they are very aggressive on discs - change the pads , change the discs DS2500 are very good for the track and road but you need to follow the instruction to bed them in - they are good on discs unlike mintex 1144's which are far more aggressive . No experience of 1155, 1166 or Hawk

The critical thing with all high spec fluids is regular changes - no point having top spec Dot 5.1 full of moisture and some false sense of security. Also always use small new containers rather than having a large container with its seal broken - half full - collecting moisture in a damp shed. So bulk buying is really a false economy unless you use it all quickly - ie trade type use If you have a friendly decent garage they can test fluid for moisture content . If in doubt bleed it out - 15 min job and keeps the nipples freed off.

Use a decent Dot 4 and fit some cooling ducts - dot 5 mineral / racing fluid is stupidly hygroscopic and I don't need it when absolutely hammering my brakes on a circuit. Change it every 2 years or so - just be sensible.

Mazda E3 engine - unfortunately very hard to find now - best just stick with 0.060" oversize and avoid the need for oversize/expensive gaskets