toofast2race

All the best Nick!

Solid but totally scruffy and binged close up - a great "rat" car. Just needs using and enjoying until the powers that be ban such pleasures. remarkable survivor thanks to extreme low temperatures (and hence humidity) and lack of banger racers in Kiruna

First proper test run - before the white stuff dissolved, then passing its first MOT in 40 years - it failed the last one on headlight aim that I adjusted this time round!

We have a 2002 LR Discovery TD5 with about 350km's on the clock. It has never failed to get us home but it has occasionally failed to leave home (that I can forgive!) The engine that was meant to be a weak point has been virtually faultless - It still uses virtually no oil between services and gives high 20's to low 30's mpg. Its downfall is lots of niggly faults that can create a lot of work but almost no parts cost. Examples are spigot bearing replacement - all day with gearbox removal for a $5 bearing. Clutch pushrod failure (same thing - gearbox off for $5 part) Most of its leaks have been fixed with new O-rings and seal and rebuilding the offending things like fuel coolers, PRV's It was cheap as chips to buy but I fear will be our last "fixable" modern car. I would not entertain a new Discovery for serious offroad use and the maintenence of them looks eyewatering. Its a problem I will have to solve when i get back to Perth in 2019 as we need something to take us bush bashing on the camping trips. Currently I have a company 2010 Skoda Octavia Scout TDI 4x4 that is pretty good but has required new front springs and an AC compressor - its done 220k

I just got a Swedish MOT on a car that hadn't been on the road for 40 years - so in effect a barn find. I had renewed everything I thought would be required to make it safe and legal and added a few mods that might have been frowned at by some testers: 7 x 15 wheels with new 195/65 x 15 Snow tyres instead of 4.5 x 13 with 6.40 x 13 cross plys, LED headlights and Alfa seat on new runners. The tester was very pragmatic, he realised the headlights were LED but checked the aim and pattern which was perfect (Philips H4 LED conversion 150quid!). He was not bothered by a few oil drips (scroll seal on the rear main!) and passed the steering even with a little play in the non pinion end inner balljoint and bush. It even passed emissions at 1.5% CO and 800ppm HC! Since the MOT I have decided to replace the rack as it gives an irritating knock on dirt roads - I wouldn't hesitate to get it retested on a yearly basis especially with the mileages I'm intend to cover. The reality is that I will be selling the car to another enthusiast who also maintains cars properly. Agree with Nick that the whole thing is a farce, if you are maintaining a car properly what do you have to fear from a MOT test? The cost when put into context of the outlay on a old car hobby is negligible and it's a another set of eyes on your own / others work which can't be a bad thing.

Very well advanced, needs a bit of fettling in the steering department, rack is worn despite passing its Swedish MOT , I guess they are used to steering boxes and American cars of similar vintage with enormous slack. Also I have warped a (new) disc. It has already been pressed into use as an airport taxi for the 300km round trip to town. Hope to take it to Finland, Nordkapp and of course a 9000km 8 countries road trip to Paignton and Le Mans in late June

Name: Andy Thompson Category: Vehicles Date Added: 2018-05-21 Submitter: toofast2race Andy Thompson

Andy Thompson

I cleaned out a blocked heater matrix with white vinegar - magic stuff for loosening rusty muck - flush with water then fill with Toyota spec red OAT coolant

Tom Key runs a Newman hybrid cam PH3/PH2 40-80 70-30 - same overlap as a TR5 cam works well on injection and decent exhaust - he uses the TRE 6-3-1 - he has seen 185-195bhp (flywheel estimated) on Vesey dyno

Nick - I'm running MS2 V2.89 - would love active idle control but haven't worked out how yet - I run an IAC valve which progressively lowers cold start idle

Nice one - just need some thick tape to bundle up all that wiring and shes a good un

I wouldn't use it - AE/Glaicier bearings are OK - I used a set labeled as VP but stamped with a G before I really understood these things (vandervell were taken over and towards the end used VP boxes for Glaciers) for 4 or 5 years in my track 2.5 - they were mint when I reshelled (I usually reshell every 6-7 years with my track car) Cleanliness is the critical issue to bearing life - most wear is during the first few miles of a badly cleaned new assembly

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/performance-tuning/clutch-gearbox-drivetrain/close-ratio-gear-set.html I think most CR Sprint gear sets were effectively this but with a Dolly input shaft - gives a very high first gear especially with a 3.45 diff I have this gear set but with the lower first gear out of a saloon box

I got this off TR Enterprises - you can see the gear tooth count above the ratio