Jump to content

Ian2000t

Members
  • Content Count

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Ian2000t

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Wired the + of the coil through the standard RVI rev counter, and that appears to be working ok as well now without any diode tricks or gauge conversion which is good.
  2. Thanks! With the diode, does it go in between the alternator to ignition light then? You know, I think I did a worse bodge on the Mini way back. I think I added a resistor before the switching relay feed, so it usually saw around 8v, and after switch off saw 2v, which was low enough for it to deactivate!
  3. Think we posted at the same time, but got it working now! I basically did what you said there - got them paired and then tried swapping until it started! Now just got to figure out why it stays on when I switch the ignition off. Think I had that with the Mini years ago...
  4. Well, trial and error worked, so maybe I've got the 3 coil wires a bit muddled?! Either way, she runs!! VID_20210220_162128.mp4
  5. https://forum.autosportlabs.com/viewtopic.php?t=2552&highlight=edis6+wiring
  6. Right, I'm at the starting phase now, but not going great! What firing order should i have the plugs connected in? I used the "Datsun 240" diagram off autosport site, but all I'm getting is a few pops through the carbs..! How can I tell if the MJ is picking up the crank sensor input properly? And is there anyway to tell if I'm getting the right firing order at the plugs?
  7. Finished off the crank sensor bracket today. Used part of plastic pig exhaust (around 28mm tube) welded to the timing cover. Seems strong enough, and plenty of clearance for belts!
  8. Yeh, i thought I would struggle to get things mounted up exactly, so i asked for a slotted design. Used this guy on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184637204188 I chose one of his standard trigger wheels and then asked him to enlarge the centre to 32mm to allow the crank bolt and socket to fit inside it, and to add the slots in 2" pcd to mount where the fan used to (central non rubberised part of the damper). Another reason for slots is that the 4 bolt holes aren't square, it's actually a rectangular pattern. Had to do some drawings for him, and he got it bang on.
  9. Bespoke trigger wheel turned up today. Fits great! Stated making the crank sensor bracket, going to use the Ford Explorer sensor I think as it will mount sturdier than the Ford Fiesta one I have.
  10. So what I've found is that the W7LTCR has a "burn off resistor" - whatever that means?! Can't find any reference to it online. Think you're right, WR78 might be the best choice!
  11. https://www.gsparkplug.com/1x-bosch-super-spark-plug-w7ltcr.html
  12. WARNING!! DO NOT order WR7DTC from this site. I just received 10 x WR7DC+, which are single electrode, from them. Called them and they advised that these have superseded the WR7DTC, which are no longer available. So, I'm sending them back for a refund. Looking around, I think the options I have are: WR6DTC - Bosch resistor triple electrode, but a cooler heat rating (6 rather than 7). W7LTCR - Bosch triple electrode, same heat rating as WR7DTC. Not sure if it's resistive though? It's not according to the Bosch chart, but the Green Spark Plug finder sh
  13. Looks like you can still get the WR7DTC from a Porsche shop at a decent price: https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod2069/Porsche-928GTS-and-968-Spark-Plug-WR7DTC/#2069 I did use WR78's in my Mini years ago, but they didn't seem to play nice, so went back to NGK. I also tried to stay away from Bosch plugs, as the Beetle used to fowl them up once and that was the end of them - switching to NGK plugs fixed the issue completely. Although these days I keep getting NGK's fail in the Mini - seems like once they get a bit flooded they quickly seem to crap out after. Maybe not as well made
×
×
  • Create New...