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1superman

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  1. So decided on the mk2 cam instead of the injection cam. Just easier for me not messing with carbs and other issues that may occur or show up with the ip cam. Beside with the mk2 cam it seems I'll gain quite abit more anyway over the stock cam even if it were new. Then I can later on tune the carbs etc.. the engine I'll take to my buddy's shop and set it on his stand to be broke in as well. So he will fiddle with that then. Hopefully soon I can get these here, just waiting one full price for it all shipped here. Thanks for the help, much appreciated!!!
  2. Thanks nick! Ya I'm going to shim it up to around 5 or 6 thous. I'm hoping standard washers will be good. Should. Lol. I've chatted with tony lyndsey-dean alot on the cam, not sure you know him or not. He is based in u.k does race cars etc has a shop as well, does parts. He has told me that the cam is a tr6 pi injection cam, will drop in and use my push rods. So thats good. Basically what you have talked about. I actually dont mind the lower end torque to the top end. I do more spirited back road driving. I've never taken the car on a hwy dont think I will, rear end and trans gearin
  3. Thanks alec Yes I finally got the proper specs. 4 to 8 thous. I'm going to use standard shims and .005 to get to around 5 or 6 thous. No, I will not shim the rockers. It was just said to me in chats. Was told by tony lyndsey-dean that the cam will go right in with out shorter rods. My head has no shaving done. So should be normal thickness. I double and triple checked lol. Was told no it will work with out that.
  4. Thanks for the insight!!! Much appreciated. I was told that a tr6 injection cam is a mild cam upgrade. Some say that the lift is more so would need push rods to be shorter, was told others have shimmed the rocker shaft for the extra space. I'm not sure. Reason for need answers. As I'm ready to get one to finish the engine. With that was told the 150 carbs o have are u.s carbs not u.k so I dont have ability to adjust them so wont work on this tr6 cam. I was leaning on the mk2 cam as I'm told it's a drop in with no replacement of other parts. Except the lifter of coarse. I
  5. Hey guys. I found my self in a rebuild after redoing the whole car. It's not a full restoration or anything just a refresh. Anyway. I found the cam pitted and lifters pitted. bottom end is all good. Checked it out. But I'm in decision time on what cam to use. 1# oem cam. Which is tough to find 2# mk2 cam. Which is a better duration cam. Was told no other items needed ( other then new lifters ) more of a drop in cam. Will work with the original carbs. Needs to be timed advanced. 3# try cam. Which is a drop in cam, but needs shortened push rods, was told 0.30" rods n
  6. Thanks. I am going to do the block. But was wondering about this option. As it does look easy enough to do. I've read people have done both. Block and vertical mod. They said it works well for them. I dont want to lower the car to much. So with a 1/2 or 3/4 block that about 3/4 drop. With moving the spring down 1 inch on the vertical that 1 3/4 drop in the rear. I think that's to much. I maybe wrong but almost a 2 inch drop just in the rear. ?? But would the vertical drop give me more negative camber???? That's what I need, reason for the block and possible this???
  7. Ok. Been reading... I've read that some race setups either drill and move the rear spring bolt down the vertical link. Or others have bought a kit and welded in adjustable hyhm joints to the ends. So??? In doing this does it lower the suspension/car causing more negative camber??. Seems reading on it it does.. I've seen pics of guys moving the spring down about an inch give or take, and said it lowers it and adds negative camber in doing so. Plus they add a 1/2 block under the diff to help. Anyone know any info on this????? I've tried to find out more. But I'm not th
  8. Ya. I've been reading that most have issues with newer springs and a much higher arch to them. I think I'll see about getting a helper spring maybe on the spit swing spring I have, that was originally with the rear setup of this section I put in, from a spit. Add some better rear shocks and a block. I will have to either cut and flare the fenders, or go back to the 13s and just get new tires. We will see about all that once I figure out the suspension. I'd love to grab a set of good used g.a.s shocks with some springs for the frt. Gas shocks for the rear. I've done all ne
  9. Thanks!!! Ya I have a spit swing spring setup in the car. I put the solid spring in place from a roto as the swing spring was not able to hold the weight. Also had a bit of a lean to the right. The solid one lifted the car up and is more stiff. But with that I got positive camber issues now with it. Other then that the car works great with the 17s. No issues. Front I'd like to stiffen up, so maybe heavier springs and koni shocks. Koni shocks out back. But still have that camber issue. I measured the springs. The swing eye to eye was the same distance as the solid one. So ulti
  10. Thanks. Good to know. Ya it did have one but p.o did some stuff that shouldn't have been done. Unfortunately, but that's what I was dealt with. I'm going to get a lowering block, I will prob get a new swing spring for gt6. The one on the car was a spitfire one. I think it will work with those. As well I was thinking about the vette air shocks?? Or maybe a coil over shock?? Front wise?? A better shock? Stiffer spring?? I want to get it to some sort of auto cross setup. Stiff. Less squarely!! With a block etc.. I'll need to flare the fenders with the 205/40/17 frt an
  11. Hey guys.. I have a 72 triumph gt6. I was wondering if anyone has added lower a arms to the OEM rear uprights? Want to add adjustable ones, weld the perch to the frame, etc.. is there any way to add them to the upright I have??? There a long story with the rear of this car. But the end is that I have a swing spring out of a 72 spit setup. Spring was weak so I swapped it out for the solid roto spring I had. So now I'm thinking i want to add lower arms to help with some positive camber issues. I'm going g to add a lowering block aswell. But want to get the wheel end to hold. It
  12. Ya. I thought the same. I actually drove it for abit today. Got the frt done and interior in. Some minor stuff to do now. The ride wasn't that bad, at all. Took the bumps rather well. Once all done and ready for every day use. I'll see for sure. I am using adapters, so easy to switch back to the 13s if needed. I would rather deep 13s but cant find any used ones. New I am not spending the money on them right now. So these will do. I might see about 14s or 15s with higher profile tires. But for now I'm going to use these, see how it goes. Right now I'm happy how they worked on the ca
  13. Well. Almost finished!! For now. Abit more work and she will be ready to go.
  14. I'm going to make up a rear compensator for the suspension. Have dimensions, will see about making one. Has anyone made one? If so pics would be great..
  15. Update. So I took it back apart. Installed the top plate and new spring rubber. Made my own from leaf spring lying around. Tightened all up, jacked up each end of the wheel ends. Till the load of the car was on the spring. Tightened everything up. Both side. Torqued down the wheel adapters, installed wheels. Aired up the tires to same all around. 32 psi. Bounced and rolled the car.. what a difference, the car is sitting level. Also the wheels are at basically 0 camber. I'm hoping that the wheels and suspension settles just a but more. Give me 1 or 2 negative.
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