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Steve 13-60

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  1. At 3000 its around 40 psi, not too bad TBH. But the task for that engine is just to get me to berlin. Then it'll be a door stop! Done the window seals, but still plenty of rattles to cure. But that'll be on assembly after the body off resto. Done as much welding as I can here but need to get it in my garage for the rest....like inner rear wheel arches.
  2. Already added a spacer. And the cooler did help maintain low rpm pressure for the short time had it on the 1300. Folk recon a cooler isnt really needed, but I'm concerned about driving on the autobahn at 60mph for hours on end.
  3. Indeed, it'll be ok should I need to drive it on the autobahn. But the idea was to have a nice rev happy 1300. Oil pressure was very low on tickover....about 10psi....I might just stick the oil cooler back on and lock the valve to always flow thro the cooler. Running out of days tho! But did have a pleasant day tinkering.....and being paid to do it by that nice mr boris!
  4. Not under the tunel and just the carpet on top. Far better on the 40's but still bloody noisy compared with the mgb. But then the B has a proper body whereas the herald has a body with the structural integrity of an empty crisp packet! I'll get there in the end, no rush, will only have to find something else to tinker with. Am looking forward to fixing the 1300 tho and getting that back in, reckon its gonna fly once sorted. Oh yes, spotted a core bung leaking....another panic order off to rimmer bros!
  5. Ok, the video didnt work. I'll try again later , but latest update..... We fitted the 40s and it ran ok, bit lumpy on tickover which turned out to be a fault on no4 choke. It floods on tickover but is fine once on main jet. And boy does it go when on all 4! Gets upto 4000 just breathing on the throttle. Tomorrow, I'll clean the carb and try again.
  6. VID_20200701_105219.mp4 The story so far today... Played with the carbs. Front SU seems to respond slower than the rear upto 2000 ish. rear goes up about 5mm, front about 2mm. But giving it plenty they both went up the same. Took it for a test drive and it would get to 5000....if I was brave enough...chickened out at 4600. But seemed to not have any problems....other than ITS BLOODY NOISY!!! So probably not the coil afterall. Swapped for the electronic dizzy - no difference. Played with mixtures and got it to run at a better A/F ratio. So its probably running as best it will with the SUs. VID_20200701_105219.mp4 VID_20200701_105219.mp4
  7. Hi all, again, continued thanks for all your comments which are gratefully received. I owe you all a pint, If we are ever allowed back in a pub! The SU were bought off ebay (£36!!!) purely to start the 1300 after the rebuild before swapping to the 40's. But they do appear to be ok. Yep, the air cleaners are pants, but just needed something to stop debris getting in. Yes, the A/F is going lean isnt it. I'll spend some time tomorrow playing with the mixture as best as poss without buying new needles. I'll get it running as best as possible tp prove this new 1500 is basically ok, then fit the 40s and see how it responds. Then revert to the SUs. Main objective is to get it to run good enough for the trip back home to berlin on the 12th. Plan is to tow it on the A frame, but the autobahn stasi sometimes moan about using them. So if I do get stopped I need to be able to drive it! Last night it was struggling to maintain 60mph, not to bad at 50.... But 600miles at 50mph...eeeeek! If I can cruise at 60 I'll be happy. Hence why I fitted the OD box. Hoping to get it in at the Berlin classic car show in November (why not summer????? German sense of humour no doubt!)
  8. Just been for a test drive with the new mounts. Has made a difference to the noise but still struggling to rev, although I did manage to get it to 4500! But it's to be expected it will be running weak on 1300 hs2s. Gonna borrow my mates known good coil off his mgb tomorrow for a comparison. Then with the electronic dizzy. And then gonna stick the twin 40s on for a play!!? They are jetted for a 1.3 too but gotta be better than the su's eh ? And they are H type so are more forgiving than the non-emmission type. Plus they are jetted for a 1300 alfa guiliette kicking out 90 horses and was hoping to be mear than with the work done on the 1300.
  9. VID_20200630_164149.mp4 VID_20200630_164149.mp4 VID_20200630_164149.mp4 VID_20200630_164149.mp4 Just put new engine mounts in. Starts instantly amd ticks over lovely. Just under load it struggles. Please ignore the poxy rev counter pod, its just temporary whilst I play! VID_20200630_164149.mp4
  10. Hi Mike, I did suspect the fuel pump so fitted a new one. That made no difference other than to overcome the old float valves and puke fuel out! £30 and new valves later still no improvement.! And it had too much pressure for the twin40's so bang went another £20 on a pressure regulator. Thanks to folk on here making me think, I'm now hoping its a duff ign coil.....just gotta wait for the new lucas one to arrive.
  11. 3500 rpm.....!!! Thats dream land with myt 3000 herald. At 3000 rpm it sounds like its being tortured and in pain! I'm pinning my hopes on it being the ign coil, despite being a new one. Ordered a genuine lucas jobbie. Fingers crossed....otherwise its going to the crusher!! Ok, probably not...but sure feel like it.
  12. Hi Miles, not fitted the twin 40s to the 1500 yet. May have a try this week just to see what happens. I really need to have a test drive in another herald or spit to compare. Some time ago another herald owner had a test drive of mine and said it was like his. But TBH, I dont think he knew one end of a spanner from the other.
  13. Been thinking about that, only thing that is common is the ign coil. But that is a new one, so discounted that. Perhaps it is a duff one? It's one that uses a resistor, was supplied with the Accuspark distributor kit. But if its anything like the plugs they also supplied ( which are pretty bad - 3 prong type, but the electrodes aren't central) then it could well be a dud. Will order a new standard type to compare.
  14. Yes, deffinately revs related, dropping in/out of O/D makes a big difference. The gearbox was my first thought, hence going for a new O/D one. But was just as bad. And that was with the standard carb and exhaust. Before making new mounts I experimented with drilling the standard mounts to weaken them. It did help, hence making my own. I did suspect the diff, which was why I did the coasting test. But there was no untoward noise in the whole drive train.
  15. Hi Nick, both engines rev freely enough in neutral, seems to be a problem when being driven, even when gently accelerating. I ditched the metal fan and now have a multiblade plastic spitfire one. Though I have even tried an electric one. Distributor wise, I have the original one with new points and a brand new electronic Accuspark jobbie. Flywheel wise, as I had the 1500 one lightened and balanced to the 1300 so I decided to fit the old 1300 one to the 1500. I've fitted a new fuel pump in case it was struggling to supply fuel. so its had a new gearbox, flywheel and clutch, rebuilt motor. New dizzy. Fan. Exhaust. Only common parts are the dynamo and starter. I even bought a stethoscope to listen for the cause! Best way of describing the noise is as if it was hard mounted to the chassis. I really am at a loss, could really do with an experienced ear to listen to it. Trouble is I'm dragging it to Berlin on the 15th July, now lockdown is sort of over, to do the bodywork, needs inner rear wheel arches and a full respray - my son lives there and has all the gear. I've converted it to accept an A frame ( linked brakes/lights etc), plan is to drag it behind the camper to use when we arrive at whatever destination we've gone to!
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