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  1. Well, it's now been a year. I've been unable to get a hold of Neil since June, and my friends in the UK have had no luck either, all the while I can see he's still active selling on ebay...Is there anyone local to him who might be able to check in in person? Otherwise I'll be seeing if local authorities can help out.
  2. Thanks for that Nick. Another gent in the UK has offered to receive the parts from Neil on my behalf. Hopefully it works, if not I"ll take you up on your generous offer.
  3. An update to this story. I had managed to get hold of Neil via phone on the 10th of June. He had expressed regret at not taking care of me in a timely manner, and had promised to get the system shipped out that Friday, then the Friday after that. Since them I've been unable to reach him via phone or email. If this continues into August, it will have been a year that he's had my parts. I've about reached the limits of my patience.
  4. Yes, I understand if he was having difficulty due to covid, Early in January I tried to impress upon him that Covid would be a problem, and it was best to try to get the stuff shipped before, that didn't work out. I have no issues making arrangements for a courier to collect the shipment so he doesn't have to physically go to a post office/shipping center. It's a very disheartening situation for many reasons. AJ
  5. Good Day All, I had posted a while back about my PI GT6 project. It's stalled at the moment due to some difficulties getting my PI system back from being refurbished. I'm trying to get some help contacting Neil Ferguson the PI guru. I've tried phone and email to no avail, I was wondering if anyone local could contact him in person on my behalf (I appreciate the difficulties of doing that what with the Covid pandemic). The situation is last year I had sent Neil a complete PI system (log, mu, filter, pump, throttle bodies, injectors, throttle body alignment tool) to have the MU and injectors refurbished. This was in August. In December the work was finished and I paid for the service + some spare parts. The items were to be shipped out in the months since then, first in January then the last I heard he said he would ship in early April. Since then I've not heard from him as to what's going on with my PI system. And yes, I'm (now) aware of the thread on this board with Tim's issues with Neil. Kinda wish I had read that prior... I'd appreciate any help offered with this matter. Kind Regards, AJ
  6. Thank-you kindly. My search terms on duck-duck-go didn't bring up the revington site.
  7. Hello Again Everyone, The bottom ends I was looking at have an end float of 0.009", which is 0.001" over the suggested clearances i've found online. I think it's safe to assume the thrust washers for these blocks haven't dropped. Pending that final confirmation I'll be getting one (hopefully soon). Any more checks I should ask for before purchasing? In terms of the PI fuel pumps, does anyone know where I could find the specs for its current draw? I'd like to size an alternator with that in mind, running the pump would be a new continuous load, and my Lucas alternator is both undersized and on its way out with its intermittent behaviour. Kind Regards, AJ
  8. Gentlemen, thanks for all the information. I've been busy with my OD transmission swap, I'd say it's about 90% complete now. JR2, thanks for the reply. I've seen the corresponding 0.65" figure from BPNW, It's just that when I take the same measurement for my cylinder head, it's about 0.9" not 0.95" as in the picture, likewise for the GT6 Mk2 head I was trying to purchase. Yep, sticking with a 2L engine, 9.5CR so was looking at the head thicknesses per Christ Witor's site. I'm trying to determine if it's safe to shave my thick head down to 3.3" -the opinion seems to be that it's too risky- vs getting a GT6 Mk2 head which I've been informed should be a wideport head. Planning is important, I like doing it, you should see the research and planning I did for this little transmission swap. I'd definitely like this to go as smoothly as possible considering I really don't have a clue what I'm doing, and am acquiring parts as I go. So I'm certainly open to ideas as to a suggested order of operations. The initial plan was to get the head sorted out while I wait on the PI stuff to be refurbed. Still in the process of that. After that I'd start acquiring the bits for a 2L block and determine the work that needs to be done and quotes for it and have whatever machining necessary done. The next step for me was to figure out the fueling situation, I was going to buy another gas tank and determine the plumbing. I've got most of the parts to convert the GT6 to a cable throttle, so that would be the first change I make to the car in preparation to fit the PI. After my move I'd assmble the engine and get ready for the swap. Kind Regards, AJ
  9. Thanks for the information and website Nick. I've asked the gentleman with the blocks to check the end float for me, and where possible to check for the damage you've shown in the pictures. My GT6 already smells like fuel . I've seen Steve's implementation from his blog, I was considering doing it that way, or putting it underneath the car somehow. Speaking of the fuel system in general, what is the system pressure, and would a fuel filter like the glass bowl ones fitted to E types work before the pumps, or is the pressure to high? Does anyone filter just before the MU? I'm not interested in the HS6 option. I've already got 2 sets of PI gear being refurbished and calibrated, so I'll be sticking to this course of action. I want to build a car that Triumph could have made. Besides, as Nick points out, if for some reason I should abandon my Luddite ways I can go to EFI. Kind Regards, AJ
  10. Gentlemen, Was busy the prior weekend swapping an OD transmissio into the car. Not quite complete, will have to finish it this weekend. I got a measurement of the port spacing for the GT6 head I was interested in. Please see below: I had thought the correct port spacing was 0.95", according to this image from BPNW https://www.bpnorthwest.com/catalog/product/gallery/id/1908/image/6392/ But checking my TR6 head, it's 0.90", which matches the photograph Is the BPNW figure incorrect, can anyone confirm that the port spacing on a wideport head is supposed to be 0.90" ? I'll also be purchasing a block or complete bottom end from the same gentleman Are there any references for what that damage looks like? I can ask for the gentleman to check the bare block, but for the bottom ends I think he'd have to get an endfloat measurement. Can the damage be seen with he oil pan removed? Kind regards
  11. Thanks for the tip. To be clear, are you referring to this area? What's the best way to remove the idle-air valve? Mine does not want to twist easily, don't want to force it and damage the part. Kind Regards, AJ
  12. Nuts. that's rough about the head. But, I could achieve the CR by having slightly oversized pistons and skimming off less going by this chart: I won't know what the condition of the bores will be until I get the block. I'd really hate to destroy this head. I'll try to get a hold of the MK2 head, however maybe I might have to consider a smaller shave and the use of domed pistons? If I do stick with the TR6 head, i think i"ll keep the stock smaller valve size then, if cracking is an issue. Nolan's car can be found in a thread on triumphexp called "GT6 with a 2500 pi engine". His also a Mk3 though. I hadn't known the Mk3 bulge was bigger than the Mk2. I've taken some rough measurements of the vertical and horizontal distance from the intake/exhaust port face of the head to the vaccum pipe nipple on the manifolds which seem to be the highest/furthest point. I'll compare these to what i've got under the bonnet to get a better idea of clearance. I don't see them as being higher than the stock twin carb setup, the air box, or even the heater valve and gulp valve, but then again the latter two might be well within the bulge. I might have the opportunity this weekend to trial fit them onto a friend's Mk1 which is being dismantled. So perhaps that can give a certain answer. Perhaps something else I could do to get a bit more clearance is to have the mating faces on the manifolds milled at an angle to get them more horizontal, but there really isn't a lot of meat there for that I think. Another option I'm not sure would work is to make some stepped manifolds like on Bumblebees webers. Could lower the injection manifolds enough if that'snecessary. Kind Regards, AJ Thanks for the spring info GT6MK3 and Nick,
  13. JohnD, Is there a spec for the valve springs spring constants? Are the Jaguar springs preferable to the double spring set up, and if so, what springs exactly are they from/part numbers? Thanks and Kind Regards
  14. Gentlemen,Thanks for the response! I'm in the US. The plan is indeed to build a separate 2L PI engine, and I'll swap the engines when I'm ready next year. I daily drive this car, so doing it this way is more convenient, and I can take the time to do it right. Then after some time living with the car and new engine, I'd rebuild the original engine for PI with the second set of gear, or at least do the work on the bits and carry over whatever improvements I learn from the first engine. On the subject of the heads, at the time I couldn't confirm whether or not the heads on my car or the Mk2 GT6s in general were wide port heads, so I went with a known wide port head from a TR6 which had been magnafluxed and has no warping or cracks. Thanks Nick for clarifying that the Mk2 cars do indeed have wide port heads. I was looking into purchasing another GT6 Mk2 head with the circle B casting mark, but the gentleman was unable to confirm the port spacing and has been quite busy to get back to me, I'd still like to get this head. The TR6 head is stamped 219019, casting number 313248, Chris Witor's page says it's 3.560" with 30.3mm exhaust valves. I measured from the between the gasket surfaces on the block and valve cover side, and it was a little less than 3.56". This head does have double valve springs, I will need to confirm the exhaust valve size. My GT6 has a head stamped with 517528 and casting number 308351. Chris Witor's page says that is was found on MK2 GT6s, the head height is 3.3" with 32mm exhaust valves. The other head I wanted to purchase, (and still might), has the same stamp and casting numbers, but it's condition is unknown. I had seen there was a 150bhp cam, which I was going to purchase, but I got a cam along with the TR6 head with the following specs: Bumblebee - I believe everything fits under the hood without issue, I've seen two GT6's with the PI system, SteveA's and fellow by the name of Nolan iirc. The manifolds are well below the top of the valve cover, so I wouldn't suspect them to interfere. I've got no intentions to race, so I'm not going to be trying to extract every last hp/L as possible, I want reliable power. As for my glamorous passenger, being young helps, beats me otherwise, one of those mysteries you just have to appreciate. Questions: Nick, if I understand you correctly, the MK2 GT6 head and cam, with pi gear could yield 132 hp? Can the valves be enlarged to the 32mm ones? Does it make that much of a difference? It is quite a shave to bring the head down to size, is there any danger of getting into the cooling passages? I can get a quote for the head skim and compare it to the cost of the other Mk2 GT6 head I have been trying to get. Maybe it's more worthwhile to start with the GT6 head instead? Thanks and Kind Regards, AJ PS Thanks for the comments about the car, it does have its good points being mostly original, but it does have typical rot in the floors, and a few DPO presents like cut off front crossmembers, hence the custom lower valance the gentleman I bought it from fabricated. I hadn't noticed them until I went to fit an original lower valance! Wish I did, maybe I could have haggled the price down some more...
  15. Good Day Gentlemen, I'm new to the forum and Triumphs in general. Around 2010 when I was a kid, I first saw a GT6 by way of trying to buy an MG. Fell in love, and I've always wanted a GT6 since then. Finally got the opportunity to purchase one this year. In the preceding years I had a simple dream, and that was to build a PI GT6. What if Triumph made the best possible GT6, with a PI engine and overdrive and whatever other goodies I could think of. I've been reading SteveA's old blog and trying to gather parts and information for the build. So I've accumulated two sets of late PI gear and am having one MU recalibrated/refurbished, and I got hold of a cam and wideport TR6 head, which I think I'll need to shave to bring the CR up to something like on the UK spec GT6s. I've never built an engine before in my life, and i'm not 100% sure what all I need to do to accomplish this idea, but I'm committed to making the dream a reality. My first step will be to build up the head, so I've got to get all the right studs for manifolds and such, get the head height right for a GT6, and sort out the valves and springs and rocker gear. I'm still looking for an engine block to build on, but it's not much of a priority right now simply because I'm loathe to lift a built up bottom end up and down the stairs of my apartment. Here's some pictures of the car, and the new head with some of the components slapped on. Needless to say, I'll be posting an awful lot of neophyte and naive questions in the coming months. So as my first question: Did the PI cars have different valve springs than the non PI cars? Kind Regards, AJ
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