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Everything posted by PeteStupps

  1. This made me laugh. Reading of your travails makes me feel better about not owning a modern... (realise that's not an option for most).
  2. Aha OK, thanks Nick. I was thinking they might trip if you hit a pot-hole or something, then you splutter to a halt and get flattened by a delivery van...
  3. Forgive my ignorance but where do people mount these? On the dash or in the engine bay? If they can trip spuriously I guess you'd want to be able to reset from the driver's seat
  4. just as well - you'd have had to choose between lighting up or keeping the fuel pump running!
  5. If practicality were no object, I would have a camera low down on the front or rear wing, just behind a wheel so you could see the suspension moving. But how you'd achieve that I have no idea! Much better to have footage of you actually driving though, can see how that would be useful.
  6. Very nice, have you got a gasket underneath the spacer? When I came to fire up my first rebuild, I used the electric drill technique for priming. But half-way through I had the "genius" idea of spinning the engine over at the same time, to ensure oil would get distributed everywhere. Then of course no.1 piston was no longer at TDC when I came to refit the distributor, and I wasn't sure if it was on the compression stroke. Basically it took ages to get it ready to actually fire, and then when it didn't start easily I was convinced the timing was 180 degrees off...
  7. Ah is it?! OK I won't pretend I know what I'm talking about. But you can make steel hot enough to glow without it burning, right? That was what I was musing on - if you heat anything sufficiently it will give off visible light. Red-hot, white-hot etc. So when you get sparks off steel, the steel debris is glowing because it's hot not necessarily because it's burning. Whereas ali doesn't get hot enough because it's softer... That was my theory. Edit: I just held a sliver of aluminium foil in a candle flame (WFH...) and it did glow. But didn't burn. I don't think that tells us anything usef
  8. Yes John! Why the ummmm??? When cutting metal, why does it get hot? Friction, I think we'd agree. Aluminium, being significantly softer than steel, incurs (?) less friction per distance cut, and less heat is generated. If it doesn't get red-hot, it doesn't glow and it isn't a spark. That's my idly assumed explanation. Not convinced there is an oxidation reaction occurring with your steel sparks, I think they're just very very hot. Although I take your point about their small mass.
  9. Interesting question. I doubt it's the thermal conductivity, because when your speck of aluminium is airborne it has nowhere to conduct heat except the air. Do you reckon it's to do with how soft ali is? Think about effort if you're hacksawing through it - much less heat generated in the first place, so it never gets red hot.
  10. Very good Hamish! Enjoyed that. In the spirit of constructive feedback, I'd say your 2nd camera angle isn't all that different from the first. But I liked it switching from one to the other.
  11. Thanks for that David, I heeded without replying. Think I'm going to stick with the existing small baulk rings as they are all in good condition. If my bank account ever recovers I'll buy some of the later type to rebuild the Spit mk2 box, but that's a way off... Meanwhile, today an important package arrived from 50 years ago: And a phone call from the machinist: engine is bored & honed, crank is ground, and all ready for collection. Fortunately the 21st is payday for me, so I can go and fetch it this week
  12. Cor blimey! As they say down here. That looks very impressive
  13. Hmm I might come and spectate! Not far from me.
  14. With the gearbox back together I contacted Yogi the FWD expert about the original clutch breakage problem. Very helpful bloke! He suggested two possibilities: bad luck, and the spigot bush being seriously worn, allowing the input shaft the flex and cause misalignment. This was the 3rd person (thanks @mpbarrett above) to suggest the spigot bush so I finally began to pay attention...! Took the flywheel off and removed spigot bush. Tried it on input shaft tip: wobbly. Turned it over so shaft went into unworn end: not wobbly. Went back and looked at previous engine which killed one clutc
  15. An update: work was delayed by receiving the wrong roller bearing, although I managed to get the synchro hub back together Also for the first time i my life I bought some proper gasket paper (3 rolls of various thickness) and hole punches, so was able to waste time drinking lager and making gaskets Eventually the right bearing arrived and I went through the workshop manual and tried to do everything properly during re-assembly, which I skipped last time... Getting the laygear cluster into the gearbox was a real struggle. It's the bottom set in the photo below, vi
  16. A good cause John! Is that for the CSCC in August?
  17. Ah Roger, I had the same problem yesterday. Didn't try to reset password though
  18. Thanks Nick, I was just pondering a message to TLD! My NOS gearset arrived from Mick Dolphin today but am still after 1st/2nd synchro hub and bearings
  19. I don't know for sure but don't think it's against the law John. The thing about putting children on the back seat is a recommendation, not a requirement. Maybe it used to be mandatory...? From the ROSPA website: "It's safer to fit child seats in the rear of the car, but if necessary they can be fitted in the front."
  20. Yes Clive this one's fine, which is a relief as it's where I spend most of my time! Discovered that I can get CT forum displaying normally on Internet Explorer but not Chrome, so it must be something to do with browser versions or whatever.
  21. Hi Paul. Is it a brand new spring? Should look less daft when car is complete, but they all seem to have too much arch at first (certainly for Spitfires). As Nick said they do settle over time. Most basic thing is to add a lower block between diff and spring https://canleyclassics.com/?product=alloy-diff-spacers. I think 3/4" is the max size before you need to also fit longer studs in the diff. And then they might foul on the diff cover, so it's a bit of a pain in the neck. The other thing that definitely works is to put something really heavy in your boot, roll the car around a bi
  22. I reset my password and logged in last night. First and foremost, well done and thanks@zetecspit! It's a shame the previous forum was so unwieldy and it's a shame it took so long for this upgrade but glad it's finally happened. Unfortunately for me (but not my employer), my work firewall seems to dislike the CT and TSSC forums now, so I can only see them in 'plain text' display which is very difficult to navigate. However the new forum works well on my phone so I'm happy to access it that way. Pete
  23. Flip. Good luck Phil! Have they / you got means to get tested onboard?
  24. I've got my log-in details but with two possible passwords, neither of which worked first time. Tried a couple of combinations but it's locked me out for 15 minutes now!
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