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UNFIT

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Everything posted by UNFIT

  1. I cleaned down the replacement engine and started to change a few things over. I replaced the front plate with the one from my old engine. I fitted a new timing chain. The sprockets looked ok so I went with them. I swapped over the distributor from my old engine as it had a cable drive for the rev counter. I removed the inlet manifold and the SU's and fitted the spare inlet and Strombergs that I had. I dismantled the carbs and gave them a good clean. I am waiting on a gasket kit to put them back together. I replaced the back plate (it was for an automatic box) with the one from my own engine.
  2. Cheers nick. If I have to change the sump then I suppose that would allow me the opportunity to check the stroke or maybe identify which crank is in it ??? With regard to rockers, I always thought that the cam followers should be numbered (or matched) with the pushrods when you stripped down an engine. The spare head and camshaft that came with my original engine had the pushrods numbered but the followers were loose in the box. How important is it to have each pushrod and follower matched and numbered ? Asking just in case I do decide to swop over the camshaft.
  3. The story with the engine is that it came fitted in a Stag that the chap bought. He has located a V8 engine for the Stag and so this engine is surplus to requirements. The engine was running well apparently and he sent me a video of it running before he took it out. I'm presuming it still has it's 2l internals. I did'nt even notice that the carbs were SU. I wouldnt tell the difference to be honest. Problem is getting it down here at the moment due to lockdown.
  4. It could do with a good cleaning alright... Gunk and Mr. Muscle.
  5. Thanks Nick. Here are a few pics of the engine. Regarding the camshaft, could I fit the 308778 that I discovered in my box of spare parts ?
  6. Ok. An update of sorts. I have located an engine which might suit. The engine is a runner and sounds sweet so at least that would help me get the car on the road while I consider other options. . It is out of a Mk2 Triumph 2000. The engine number is ML23346HEA. It is currently fitted to an automatic gearbox but I presume (hope) that I can fit my own flywheel and clutch. As far as I can make out the engine prefix ML2.. was fitted to the 2000 TC mk2. (May75 to May 77).... Would that be correct ?? What piston/head set-up would it have had ... (Domed with higher head ?) Are there
  7. I removed No. 1 piston on my engine during the week to check whether the dome is solid or hollow. I was toying with the idea of having the domes milled off so that I could fit a 517528 head on my block..... as you correctly point out , they are hollow. I'm still on the hunt for a 248 head.
  8. Hi Nick, It's strange that as I was bolting the head down I was thinking to myself what could I pop into the chambers that would measure the clearance between valves and piston crown. I never thought of plasticine. . I also thought of taking the grinder to the domes and "reducing them" (machining them ) somewhat.. I resisted the temptation. 12.25 :1 is fairly high CR alright. I dont think pistons would stand up to that too long.
  9. I put out the word among the Triumph owners over here about a mk 2 head with deeper combustion chambers and/or flat top pistons. Things are very quiet over here at the moment with Covid lockdown and all that (5 km travel limit) so I dont see any possibility of getting along to see any heads or blocks that might surface if indeed any does. I hadnt much on this morning so I fitted the mk2 head and torqued it down and fitted the pushrods and rocker shaft etc. There was no interference when I turned the engine by hand. Hopefully something will turn up over here but in the meantime I hav
  10. Thanks for that Phil. It would appear that the head, cam, manifolds , carbs etc. that were in the "engine parts box" came from a mk2 GT6. Maybe the PO acquired them to fit on the engine which it seems is a combination of Mk1 head and Mk2 block. Maybe the PO thought that By fitting those other parts that he would return the engine back to full Mk2 spec.
  11. Hi Nick. I found and read RR's thread last night. A man wouldnt sleep well after reading it lol. Hello RR and welcome to this quandry that I have on my hands. I went back at this again this morning. I cleaned up one chamber on each of the heads just to get a visual idea of the differences. The chamber on the later 517528 head is a completely different shape and appears to be much greater in volume. The chamber on the mk1 head is really quite small in comparison. I tried to get readings of the comparitive depth of each chamber and they appear the same (or very close). I mesured
  12. By the way, what would have happened if I had fitted the 517528 head and tried to turn her over ???
  13. Hi Nick. Yes it has domed pistons alright. The chambers dont looked to have been opened out. They look original. I dont know how long she had been running with that head/piston/block setup but the valve heads and the chambers have the signs of having been run. I started the engine in 2014 and let it run for a few minutes before removing the engine from the chassis. As you point out, the CR would have been greatly increased by the dome top pistons . I wonder what the PO (or maybe the owner before him) had in mind.... because drilling out the head
  14. Thanks for that information lads. Nick, you were spot on.... the head studs are 7/16" so it appears that the Mk1 head was drilled out to suit the larger head studs. I removed the head from the engine today. The raised casting mark on the Mk1 head is V2921. There is another raised number that I cannot read. It looks like 300488 or 508486 . Anyway, I now have 2 heads (pics below) I also spent an hour looking through the parts that came in the boxes marked "engine parts". This has given me some indication of what the PO might have been planning to do with the engi
  15. You are spot on Nick. ...517528 ..... Senior moment here. What would you suggest in this case ? Remove the head that is on her and check over /prepare the 517528 head for fitting on instead ?
  16. Nick, I see the two switches on the remote and I presumed one was an OD inhibitor and the other was a reversing light switch. I will check tomorrow to see if there is another switch in the position you mentioned. The one thing that struck me about the gearbox was how small and how light it is. I'm no expert on gearboxes but I really tought it looked undersize for the job.
  17. Nick, Thanks for such a thorough reply. I understand what you mean by the "pushrod tubes" ... I will look up the rest of the items that you referred to to gain a better understanding. It certainly sounds like someone went to some bother to end up with such a mixture of parts ... especially if they went to the bother of drilling out the head to accept bigger head studs. I will check the head studs tomorrow. To further confuse matters, the boxes of spare parts for the car included another complete head 308351/517527 and also an inlet manifold (with carbs) , an exhaust manifold, a camsh
  18. I started working on the engine and gearbox that was fitted to my GT6 when I bought it over 4 years ago. All I know is that it starts and runs on all 6 cylinders. I gather that it is not the correct engine for this year of GT6. In fact, It might not be a GT6 engine at all. It may be from a Triumph 2000 saloon car. Because of that, I have decided that this engine may not be the one that I should re-build top to bottom or invest a lot of time or money into. However, It will probably provide adequate use to allow me to experience the GT6 on the road for a year or so and to decide where to g
  19. Cheers Lads. I will put up a few photos of the engine and box that I have tomorrow. It is not original to this car. It is an older engine I think. I started it before removing it from the chassis. It idled rough but that was understandable as it hadnt been started in years. I did a compression test (cold) and it did have compression on all 6.
  20. Cheers Mark. I used 2k. I have not wet sanded or compounded it yet . I share your concerns about the Webastos. They really were an oddity in their day. I really wonder about the thinking on cutting a great big hole in the roof of an expensive Daimler or Jaguar back in the 70's and sticking a vinyl skin over it.... and they wer'nt cheap to list as an extra into the bargain. I'm very pleased with the wheels. I decided to go with dark grey baskets and polish the rims. I remember my son restoring and polishing the BBS back in the Mk2 Golf days and always thought they looked well. It wa
  21. So that where things are now. I need to finish the interior. Door cards, recover dash top, re-veneer dash, roof liner, carpets, etc. I have purchased Noico sound deadening to stick on the floor pans and boot floor. I have a carpet set which was pyrchased by the PO and never used. I think all the pieces are there. Still undecided about roof-cloth. I might look at a semi rigid alternative .. maybe .. Suggestions welcome. I then have to fit the windscreen. I have read a few threads about that. Not looking forward. In the meantime, I think that I will leave those jobs for the time being
  22. Son buys me a new bonnet badge for my birthday ... it looks great. I fitted the Webasto roof yesterday which was one of the toughest parts of the restoration to date. I expected it to be a tricky job but totally underestimated just how tricky it turned out to be. There were times yesterday that I wished I had welded up the roof-skin and confined the Webasto to history. But anyway, it's fitted now, sits nice and flush and is as tight as a drum when closed.
  23. I was happy with the way things were going so I fitted headlamps (sealed beams) ... I might up grade them at a later stage.. I would welcome suggestions. I polished up the 4 wheels and fitted centre caps and new wheel studs. The wheels are Appliance mags which were popular in the early to mid 70's. I checked them up on the internet and they appear to have been well regarded back in the day. Especially in the United States apparently.
  24. I then fitted the bonnet assembly which allowed me to get the door shuts and sill gaps fairly close. This took a lot of "fettling" as they say. I found it a right pita to be honest. The gaps are 90% good but I will give them another few hours and hopfully get them better. I also had to "reprofile" and respray the headlamp cowls to match the bonnet which I had repaired earlier in the project. I now have a "matching set" I fitted the bumper ( Fair condition) and decided to go with a lip spoiler which I found in the box of spares that came with the car. Door handles are Spitfire items which
  25. Hello All, it has been quite a while since I last updated this rebuild thread... So here goes.. I built up the doors and fitted them . Also fitted the rear hatch. I also fitted rear lights and some items of trim.We then pushed the car out of the workshop where it has sat for too many years and made room for it in the garage at the side of the house.
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