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JumpingFrog

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  1. Oil cooler without thermostat is just going to stop the oil getting hot, and give you sludge instead. If you do decide to fit the cooler, I'd say a thermostat is essential. I'd also suggest that oil pressure at idle is a fairly meaningless figure, especially if your idle is set lowish. What kind of pressure are you seeing around say 3000 rpm? Happy to see progress is being made, already sounds a lot better after your tweaks. By the way, one massive source of noise in a Herald/Vitesse are the windows rattling if the runners are worn out. As you say, the construction does lend to them being not being the most quiet of cars...
  2. Seems to run relatively smoothly, but a little too quiet, your AFR is also going really quite lean when revving past 2500rpm despite no load. I expect this is related to it not wanting to rev. Really should go rich when accelerating. Do your SUs have oil in the dash pots and springs in them? I'm guessing you didn't change needles since installing the 1500? The HS2s shouldn't limit things that much until the very top end (which a 1500 won't enjoy anyway). For comparison, this is my standard (I think) Herald 13/60 engine, with twin HS2s and a 4-2-1 manifold. It seems to go alright, will cruise at 70 with overdrive... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTwKtg1bVC8 - David
  3. Thanks for sharing Nick (and mostly Chris), interesting read! A little shocked to learn now much the body stiffens the chassis by, even on a convertible. By the way, I really quite like the bolt-in rear cross member idea.
  4. Anyway we've managed to find a buyer, he says he wants to use it and fix up the bodywork. Which is what we'd hoped for. Thanks Nick, I did put an advert up there as you suggested but actually Facebook marketplace ended up finding the buyer. Unusual given my past experience. Thanks John, I appreciate your enthusiasm! Unfortunately I think Russian import laws and bureaucracy would put a stop to such exploits. On the subject of Soviet cars. I have my eyes on the ZAZ 968, rear-engined, 1.2L, alloy air-cooled V4... Basically a Beetle crossed with an Imp. There are Russian forums for them, and EFI conversions have been done. And of course Putin had one, what more could you want?! But owning a car in Moscow would be a little pointless - the metro is excellent and they suffer from some pretty horrendous traffic jams.
  5. Hey thanks for posting it here, it's a really hard decision... But once the pandemic restrictions are lifted I'm going to start a new job in Moscow and I can't see a way to store both this and my 13/60. My companion is in a similar predicament, leaving the choices of break it or to sell it. It's hard to attach a value as like most classics it's worth more in parts. At the same time we knew we'd never get our money back, but we'd rather not part it out if possible. Basically the perfect car for the RBRR or 10CR with a bit of tidying up! My only regret is we didn't get a chance to do one final trip this spring. Thanks for following us along back in 2018, it was great fun. - David
  6. I've gotten IWIS chains from "The Chain Man" https://the-chain-man.co.uk/ who will splice them to size. Ringing might be best as the new chap doesn't seem great at answering emails. Cost was about £20 at a show for a Duplex a few years ago. I suppose it depends if you have the tools to resize, probably cheaper elsewhere but I was happy to pay for the expertise.
  7. Nick, What was the damage to your lower wishbone bushes? Just asking because on our Mongolia car these were toast. My best hunch was that they take thrust loads and coupled with unpaved roads with washboard they don't last. We used "PolyBush" brand ones, and wondered if another brand may fair better. I know prototype 948s had Nylon bushes here, but ditched due to having a hard ride. From the Turn left to Tangiers notes:
  8. For greasing leaf springs? I think I've seen one once...
  9. Clio Mk.IIs are annoyingly well engineered compared to many small cars, the steel is thin but they are galvanised (or terne coated?) and the front wings are plastic, never seen a properly rusty one. However, they are almost completely soulless. Not sure how common galvanising is in general, but PSA definitely dabbled in it too?
  10. For the 1700 I have a feeling it was something along the lines of offset grinding a 1500 crank (for 2.5L 95mm stroke) by using small-crank big end diameter with small-crank rods. Not a recipe for longevity in my mind given the 1500's less than sterling reputation. Not sure of an alternative piston for the 1500, but for the 1300 I've read that 2.0L pistons may be slightly beneficial due to less gudgeon pin offset although I think the compression rings are thicker (5/64" vs 1/16") which would increase friction?
  11. I find it odd that the main shells are untouched, you would expect them to be just as bad as the big end shells? Or perhaps the VP2 are better at embedding the particles? Although scoring to the journals suggests otherwise... The 1300 small crank I built two years ago with King shells is due a refresh and cam change, interested to see what I find as I've always found it a bit rattley and my cleaning process was nowhere near as thorough as yours (only pipe brushes and paraffin bath).
  12. My parents had a 2004 C5 2.2 hdi estate, unfortunately it only got up to 140k until timing belt failure (due to poor repro water pump seizing we think). The most annoying thing was the rate it went through front callipers, the hand brake mechanism use to bind up every other winter. A very comfortable car indeed, I actually would quite like a Xantia... Breakers where you can wander round are few and far between now. 15 years ago, back in Lancs., as a 10 year old I used to go round with my Dad. Cars stacked 3 high, no hard hats or high vis! "Don't let him climb" is all they would ever say. Now the same yards still exist, but as businesses on eBay and you can't go and pull the parts yourself, times have changed. My new clutch is LuK which I'm told is a good brand. And it wasn't much more expensive than that cable. Hopefully its better quality than the reproduction B&B clutches sold for Triumphs...
  13. Thanks for the pointers. Seems like cable was the issue (and I went for genuine Renault at £70!). The cable itself was actually fine, but the liner in the outer had separated and was stuck to the inner. I think the cause of this is someone has greased the pedal end of the cable at some point and this has now gone hard and attracted dirt. Auto adjustment mechanism all looks to be working okay. No option of replacing it with a manual one for the Clio, they're all automatic. The new cable came dry, so I'm leaving it that way. Pedal is much lighter now, but apparently the OEM Valeo pressure plates are known to be quite heavy too. Would be back on the road by now if I hadn't ordered a calliper slide kit (sliding single pot callipers are another bugbear) from a company that took a week to dispatch it. Unfortunately no good motor factors near me, so it's ECP/GSF or the internet.
  14. My daily driver is an unexciting 2004 Clio dCi 80hp, £20 tax, many mpg if you drive like a saint: Seemingly it was thriving on neglect, just occasional oil changes. However, the other day I was attempting to overtake a lorry, accelerating from 50 in 5th at about 60% throttle and the revs shot up instead. So its done 115k miles and I figure a clutch change is probably about right if its been used harshly at some point, as it's not got a DMF. So this is what I removed this weekend in the pouring rain, original Valeo, friction plate looks worn but serviceable and definitely not going to cause slip: Now this is a bit of a pig of a job as it involves dropping the subframe and undoing a multitude of inaccessible bolts (the starter is particularly bad). But that aside, looking at the pressure plate, I'm thinking the wear to the fingers is a bit more than I'd expect? Any thoughts? It's a cable clutch with an automatic tensioning system that tries to keep the biting point is always right at the top of the pedal (bit disconcerting at first). I haven't checked the cable yet, but it never felt out of the ordinary?
  15. I have a feeling the Spitfire cable is no good either, because the bit through the bulkhead is shorter due to the pedal design. If memory serves me correctly a Vitesse cable is a bit longer, not sure if RHD or LHD though.
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