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About JumpingFrog

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  1. For the 1700 I have a feeling it was something along the lines of offset grinding a 1500 crank (for 2.5L 95mm stroke) by using small-crank big end diameter with small-crank rods. Not a recipe for longevity in my mind given the 1500's less than sterling reputation. Not sure of an alternative piston for the 1500, but for the 1300 I've read that 2.0L pistons may be slightly beneficial due to less gudgeon pin offset although I think the compression rings are thicker (5/64" vs 1/16") which would increase friction?
  2. I find it odd that the main shells are untouched, you would expect them to be just as bad as the big end shells? Or perhaps the VP2 are better at embedding the particles? Although scoring to the journals suggests otherwise... The 1300 small crank I built two years ago with King shells is due a refresh and cam change, interested to see what I find as I've always found it a bit rattley and my cleaning process was nowhere near as thorough as yours (only pipe brushes and paraffin bath).
  3. My parents had a 2004 C5 2.2 hdi estate, unfortunately it only got up to 140k until timing belt failure (due to poor repro water pump seizing we think). The most annoying thing was the rate it went through front callipers, the hand brake mechanism use to bind up every other winter. A very comfortable car indeed, I actually would quite like a Xantia... Breakers where you can wander round are few and far between now. 15 years ago, back in Lancs., as a 10 year old I used to go round with my Dad. Cars stacked 3 high, no hard hats or high vis! "Don't let him climb" is all they would ever say. Now the same yards still exist, but as businesses on eBay and you can't go and pull the parts yourself, times have changed. My new clutch is LuK which I'm told is a good brand. And it wasn't much more expensive than that cable. Hopefully its better quality than the reproduction B&B clutches sold for Triumphs...
  4. Thanks for the pointers. Seems like cable was the issue (and I went for genuine Renault at £70!). The cable itself was actually fine, but the liner in the outer had separated and was stuck to the inner. I think the cause of this is someone has greased the pedal end of the cable at some point and this has now gone hard and attracted dirt. Auto adjustment mechanism all looks to be working okay. No option of replacing it with a manual one for the Clio, they're all automatic. The new cable came dry, so I'm leaving it that way. Pedal is much lighter now, but apparently the OEM Valeo pressure plates are known to be quite heavy too. Would be back on the road by now if I hadn't ordered a calliper slide kit (sliding single pot callipers are another bugbear) from a company that took a week to dispatch it. Unfortunately no good motor factors near me, so it's ECP/GSF or the internet.
  5. My daily driver is an unexciting 2004 Clio dCi 80hp, £20 tax, many mpg if you drive like a saint: Seemingly it was thriving on neglect, just occasional oil changes. However, the other day I was attempting to overtake a lorry, accelerating from 50 in 5th at about 60% throttle and the revs shot up instead. So its done 115k miles and I figure a clutch change is probably about right if its been used harshly at some point, as it's not got a DMF. So this is what I removed this weekend in the pouring rain, original Valeo, friction plate looks worn but serviceable and definitely not going to cause slip: Now this is a bit of a pig of a job as it involves dropping the subframe and undoing a multitude of inaccessible bolts (the starter is particularly bad). But that aside, looking at the pressure plate, I'm thinking the wear to the fingers is a bit more than I'd expect? Any thoughts? It's a cable clutch with an automatic tensioning system that tries to keep the biting point is always right at the top of the pedal (bit disconcerting at first). I haven't checked the cable yet, but it never felt out of the ordinary?
  6. I have a feeling the Spitfire cable is no good either, because the bit through the bulkhead is shorter due to the pedal design. If memory serves me correctly a Vitesse cable is a bit longer, not sure if RHD or LHD though.
  7. I believe the Spitfire pedal will bolt in, but not tried. I quite like the Herald pedal, one of the easiest cars to heel and toe because the pedal is so large. Having said that, never tried a Spitfire might be just as good. But the normal problem is throttle cable length as the Herald one is too short. I made a custom cable from a bicycle brake inner and outer, I've had no problems with it. The only awkward bit is the bulkhead ferrule, which I had to remove from the old cable and araldite (other brands of Epoxy are available) to the new one.
  8. Is your crank nitrided Rich? I assume the previous bearings used were King/County tri-metal? Also curious to know what kind of oil pickup and whether the sump is baffled, there's been talk of the angled pickup causing starvation under hard braking. Personally, I'd avoid County if possible (but all that's available for the small-crank). For the 1500 you should be able to get AE/Glyco bearings. Somebody will probably correct me, but could you try 6-cylinder Revington's "AE VP2" tri-metal sets too? e.g. https://www.revingtontr.com/product/aeb6433020hq/name/tr5-6-big-end-bearing-set-020-ae
  9. I already have donor engines... 1x FD, 2x GEs, 1x FC and 1x GA. If I get anymore engines, I think I'd be in trouble! Good to know the cam bearings really do just tap in though, I've seen conflicting information about needing to line bore... (I know you have to on a 6). The FD block I've got has the bores at +30 so going to +40 and 2L pistons seems a reasonable idea to me. Probably I need to deck the block as I think the compression heights are different It is also VERY red, has 30 thou end float, scrap cam (later fuel pump, no spacer), two bent pushrods and one head stud replaced with a cut down bolt.. Brightly painted engines are invariably ropey IME. Obviously the chap I bought it off said it ran, it was cheap. I do have a big valve head, but I think I got a bit carried away cleaning up the ports in the past, so might just use a Herald one and have the valves bored out to size. This weekend I also had the FC engine apart to see what the bottom end is like (end float is good, needs a regrind, standard sizes). Unfortunately, damn thing has press-fit rods! Maybe I'll just use 1300 rods. Thanks Clive, this sounds like what I'm aiming at. I did a bit of digging and James' threads are very interesting! Apparently Fast Road 89 in that car (and in Dave's). So, FR 89 is sounding like a good option (290 duration). PH2 is 280 duration, and a touch less lift. I will have choke per cylinder with the Dellortos, but the hybrid cam sounds like it'd be a headache on the tuning side. More food for thought.
  10. I don't see how it could be top end if you fitted oil seals. Is there any chance that you made an error with the oil scraper rings (3-piece ones?), or moved during install? Hopefully it's not that, I'm guessing you checked the gaps too? However, the discussion about oiling fresh bores is full of personal opinions. FWIW, My engineer convinced me that almost none is the answer, due to risk of glazing the bores preventing the rings from bedding in. I'm sure you can sort it, there's always teething problems! The first (and only) engine I rebuilt immediately came apart to change the head gasket (not so fresh NOS) and then replace 4 core plugs. Including the two on the back of the head, with the engine in the car! P.S. Those plasma plugs (плазмофор?) interest me, despite the snake oil claims. Next time I'm somewhere east enough (Ukraine?), I think I'll try and hunt a set out.
  11. The time has come to think about a new engine for my Herald, as the original large-crank 1300 is a bit ropey. I've been collecting various parts for a while. Basic plan: Small-crank Spitfire FD prefix block. STD 2L pistons (Equiv. +40, but less pin offset). Spitfire 1147cc connecting rods (lighter). Crank reground, tuftrided and balanced (inc flywheel, clutch cover, front pulley). Pulley modified for a trigger wheel (planning megajolt in the future). Head with 1500FWD inlet and exhaust valves, unshroud chambers, cleanup ports, skim for 9.5-10 CR. Twin DHLA40E carbs. Maniflow 4-2-1 exhaust manifold + Vitesse Mk. 2 system. Spit. 1500 oil pump (TKC1974). Any advice, particularly for the cam? It's still a road car so I don't want anything too peaky. Some low end torque would probably be nice as I'm building a close ratio GT6 gearbox and first is quite high (2.66:1). Newman PH2 seems to be a safe choice. But I'm intrigued by the PH2/PH3 hybrid for 6-cylinders (Nick?) Has anyone tried this profile in a 4-cylinder?
  12. The plastic you refer to are little cones that go in the UJ cup? I've only seen these on the Freelander heavy duty UJs (TVF100000). Not sure what purpose they serve, this rather out of focus picture shows it?: Maybe they could allow more end float, but I can't see them being strong enough to take a load. Whenever I fit a UJ, I tipex a line across the yoke/circlip/cup so I can see if it has been rotating... I do hope the Fitchett's driveshafts are okay, as I now have one fitted to my car (only 100 miles ago though).
  13. Disclaimer: Not an expert, but I've looked into this before and have one to do myself (Marina 4.11 into a Spitfire Mk.4 casing, maybe with ATB...). So, interested to hear how you get on. Looking at the Spit 1500 parts catalogue page there was a change when the RKC1983 carrier was introduced (standardised/rationalised with 3.27 diffs?). When this happened the bearings changed too, but casing stayed the same. I assume Quaife/Blackline use the original size as it can be made to fit any casing if you use the right bearings. Form yorkshire_spam's helpful thread: So the simple solution is to get LM67048/LM67010... This is a guess, but if you want to swap casing (If the earlier, bigger bearings are considered better): According to the WSM Pinion heads should be marked +/- some number which is the height difference from a nominal reference pinion. If both your CWP have the same +/-, providing you keep the head spacer with the casing it should work? But what are the chances of them being the same... Or could you use this information to calculate the thickness of the head spacer you need?
  14. Looking very good, glad to have it back and with new features! Question about the overdrive ratios, they seem quite high to me. Admittedly, I'm not sure on the maths for planetary gear sets. But if the output spins 1.25:1 then the reciprocal ratio 1/1.25 = 0.8, seems more correct? This agrees with the print out from the original calculator that Hamish posted (A-type 22% -> 1/1.22 = ~0.82). Canley Classics' table seems to agree with this: https://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/different-differentials What do you think?
  15. +1 on the gear calculator, extremely helpful! When it disappeared I had to make a spreadsheet to replace it... I have a screenshot from "back in the day" when I used it to work out if a 3.89 was too much or not... This was after selecting tyre size, diff ratio, gearbox, OD rev limit.
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