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122344

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  1. negative pressure is need in the crank case of any engine in any application. It can be applied to the engine or a catch can connected to the engine.
  2. Valve spring compressors measure rate of pressure. You measure the pressure at the spring's installed height to determine the pressure on the seat with the valve closed and the pressure at full cam lift/max. spring compression to determine force on the cam lobe. if you wish to determine the volume of oil in the sump drain it and fill until the dip stick read full.
  3. sory about the amazon link.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilwood-260-2636-Aluminum-Master-Cylinder-5-8-Bore-Girling-Style-Master-/113134987201
  4. https://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-260-2636-Master-Cylinder-Girling/dp/B003XVEFHC/ref=sr_1_1?gclid=CjwKCAjw8e7mBRBsEiwAPVxxiA80ml26DHBuluxjToVMiLRGOEM8LBldrXJIZhLzUObG7HSC-7buhBoCrCcQAvD_BwE&hvadid=253496469582&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9002229&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5399091468700986628&hvtargid=kwd-423710107655&hydadcr=5741_9590435&keywords=wilwood+5%2F8+master+cylinder&qid=1557976094&s=gateway&sr=8-1 these are reasonably priced. I have been using one for about 5 years. I also am using there master cylinder on my Amazon. Kits are only available for the black bodied m/c so if that is a concern they are about $10US more.
  5. "off with its head! " exactly. otherwise it's like trying to sew a button on you shirt while you are wearing
  6. there are several inexpensive tools for removing valve springs on installed heads (plus compressed air to keep the valve seated). Once the valve spring is removed tape on the stem will keep it in place. Once all are remove the seat pressure at installed height and pressure at max lift can be measured.
  7. Nice looking and at a fair price. https://www.facebook.com/groups/2555366852/permalink/10155816737571853/
  8. you need negative pressure in the engine so applying metered manifold vacuum to a baffled catch can with a mesh screen is simple, cheap and effective. It could be made with a coffee tin steel wool and tubing.
  9. if you a happy with a rely box with lights have you considered a a momentary switch to engage a latching circuit that will de-energize the OD circuit if you shift out of 4th gear. The OD will not re-energize with out the momentary switch being reapplied.
  10. I have found that bearing spacers stiffen the hub/spindle connection diminishing pad push back and pedal travel on the first application. An inexpensive fix
  11. If you want to install different wheels to your TR7 determine the space in the rear wheel opening between the inner body and the rear axle flange. Minus a little clearance that is your max back space. The front will have plenty of room. The offset is where the wheel mounting flange is in relation to the rim center. Most modern production wheels are 35 to 45 mm off center. A 7 inch rim is 178 mm. With a center at 89mm plus 43mm offset equals 132mm backspace plus about 12mm for the rim lip. Wheel spacers/ adapters have their own studs and can be a different bolt circle diameter than the axle flange. Don't forget the wheel center hole compatibility . 4x100 use to be a common Japanese bolt circle diameter.
  12. Have just gone through this with my Amazon, there is a differences between offset and back spacing. A narrow wheel with 0 offset will have less backspacing than a wide wheel with 0 offset. An back spacing determines if the wheels will physically fit on the hub/brake/ suspension.. The diameter of the hole in the rim and the nose of the hub must be compatible or made to be. Also will the rims center on the hub or by the lug nut tapper. 16x7 Toyota rims replacing 15x5.5
  13. While your in the shed here is a useful tool you could fab to occupy your time
  14. some cam specs. http://www.hottr6.com/triumph/tr6cams.html
  15. Looks like it's time to get out the dial indicator and a degree wheel. Rainy day reading https://www.tildentechnologies.com/Cams/CamDesign.html
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