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Everything posted by Gt64fun

  1. Roger I have the boss/switch fitted in the top tank on my GT6. Works well enough with a 12" SPAL fan and a fixed temp FAE switch (I tried a Revotec adjustable one, but didn't like the way it functioned as it ran on for too long). Not sure why I chose top over bottom and with 20/20 hindsight might have bottom for the reasons Nick suggests. Ian
  2. That cheered us up. Talented family! Ian
  3. That's nice Nick...now you've got one each! Ian
  4. Hi Tim +1 for the Mintex M1144, which I have had on my Mk2 for many years. Stop and last very well indeed! I have very breathable Revolutions. I have also managed to find M1144s for my Honda S2K and will fit them when I change the disks. Ian
  5. Before you invest too much effort/hope in the Mk2 head, you need to check that there are no cracks between the valve seats. As Nick says, there must have been a reason for the PO going the route that he has. Ian
  6. Greta Supplementary fuse box is a Lucas 7FJ. https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/fuses-fuseboxes/glass-fuses-fuseboxes/lucas-7fj-glass-fuse-box-side-entry.html Ian
  7. Hi Greta I have a hi-torque starter and have recently had to bypass the original solenoid as it has failed internally and can't handle starting current (it's only 50 years old-bl**dy Lucas rubbish!). I managed to fit the main supply and the starter feed onto the top post as per the attached photos. You do need to run a separate wire from the switched side of the solenoid to the starters own solenoid and remove the link wire between the starter supply post and the solenoid. I had previously added a secondary fuse box which is fed from the solenoid and I use this to power various auxi
  8. YYY.....didn't Tom Jones have some thoughts on this subject? Durability of modern tyres is a bit worrying. We have 2017 Michelin Cross Climates on the Yeti and they are already showing cracks in the treads and sidewalls. I have started using tyre covers for the S2000 to try and give some protection (the fronts are fairly new). Drifting...I do hope you are not suggesting I am some kind of 'Ricer'? Ian
  9. Tyre age is shown on the date marking YYY3414 = 34th week of 2014 YYY4414 = 44th week of 2014 And why do I know.....recent research has shown the rear tyres on my recently acquired Honda S2000 are 2010 = 10 years old !!!!!) Ian
  10. Pete et al I have a column switch on my Mk2 GT6. I find when slowing down, rather than coming out of o/d in 4th and then changing down, I tend to stay in o/d top and then flick out of o/d as I change into third. As the switch is on the right hand side of the column this still only requires two hands. Sounds more complicated than it is, but it works well and I assume is better for the o/d. Ian
  11. Ian I have recently used a 3M Headlight Restoration System kit on my 2006 Mazda 6MPS. The kit comes with 500g/800g/3000g sanding discs, a sponge pad and polishing compound, a hook pad for mounting in a drill and even some nice heavy masking tape. Takes a bit of time but worked well. You will probably find yourself doing both lenses, but may not have to start with the 500g if the better one is not so aged. Ian
  12. Holts make a two-part cleaner called 'Radiator Revitaliser' and I suspect there are other similar products. I have used the Holts system in the past and it does seem to shift some of the muck. Might be worth a try when you next change the coolant. Ian
  13. Roger Good to see Alan's Vitesse has gone to a good home. Alan was kind enough to offer some advice to me and donated some of his spare carbs. I have a 1969 Mk2 GT6 with a CTM head running 9.9:1 CR, the CW version of the standard 308778 cam shaft with +0.030" increased lift on the inlets (at least I hope it is...didn't check), a flowed inlet manifold and 175 CD2 carbs. Currently running on a Pertronix 2 Ignitor electronic ignition with their 0.6 Ohm 45,000V coil. Running pretty well, revving freely and getting good economy (+35mpg on the last two RBRRs). Ian
  14. Rich I ran 5.5Jx13 Superslots on my Mk2 with 175/70 tyres and yes twas pretty tight front and rear. Clearances varied with different tyres. Post 2011 rebuild I changed to new reproduction Revolutions and sold the Superslots. IIRC, I calculated that the Superslots had an ET of +11mm. The Revolutions are ET +25mm, which is too much (despite some getting away with it) and needed a 5mm spacer on the front to clear the top wishbone and a similar spacer on the rears to bring them out further in the arches. Photo attached. My conclusion would be that an ET of +15-17 would be idea
  15. For anyone contemplating or collecting bits for the Jones/Bowler CV conversion, the August Rimmer supplement has:- City Rover LH drive shaft assembly, comprising outer CV, driveshaft and inner tripod CV (which gets discarded in favour of the Volvo 340 Lobro) for £18 inc VAT (not noted as OEM) MGF/MGF/Metro Drive flange assembly £60 inc VAT ((OEM) Use code UK1819D Ian
  16. Hi Mark I was struggling to see where you had positioned the catch tan, then spotted the little blighter hiding behind the suspension turret. Looks like the same unit as mine. The can itself is actually quite nicely made but needed some internals. I also had a leak initially where the base screws into the body. It had been sealed with what appeared to be scrapings from a wok, now resealed with Hylomar and holding fine! Ian
  17. Alan You so remind me of my mother ! Ian
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