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TRTOM2498EFI

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  1. That's incredible. My engine builder has used Newman at least 5 times for their cams and EN40 steel followers without issues.
  2. Hi Phil, K6 installation was not too bad, but still things to have engineered of course. A lot of time is spent making brackets and plotting the wiring to make it look clean and tidy. Will keep you posted once the PH5 is installed. Cheers.
  3. Andy T got me on the Newman hybrid cam back in 2010. (Thanks Andy). That was installed in 2011 on a completely rebuilt engine, along with the EN40 steel followers on Lucas fuel injection. It was absolutely tractable from idle, and would pull from 1000rpm in 4th gear without complaint. Idle was also smoother than all the CP 150 bhp cams I have heard and driven. Not sure that is anything to do with having the entire engine balancing (crank, crank pulley, rods, pistons, cam, flywheel and clutch cover). I am now on EFI with Jenvey throttle bodies, coil back, K6 ECU, etc. As Nick says, not sure suitability on twin carbs with this cam. Next cam on engine refresh is a Newman PH5 race. Will keep you posted on progress. Cheers.
  4. I have heard good things about these rods, and they come with ARP conrod bolts too, so represent good value. I run steel rods, but not this particular make. Cheers.
  5. Those 20VT engine fit beautifully in the MK1 Golf, and make a great package I sold my 2L 16V MK1 Golf in 2014, but if I still had it, this would be the engine I would install.
  6. Derby Racing Services in, guess where, Derby, have been doing Triumph 6 cyl line boring for years. They did mine in 2011, and motor has done in excess of 70K of hard miles, and no issues, so can confirm they are good at what they do. Derby Racing Services Ltd Manchester Street Derby DE22 3GA Tel: 01332 362794 Fax: 01332 370888 Email: sales@DerbyRacingServices.co.uk Cheers.
  7. Hi Michael, How many grinds has the crank had ? As per Nick, you may be better getting a better crank. For the record, X4 ARP bolts with locktite applied, is more than sufficient on a competition engine. My engine has done 8 seasons and big revs without any issue. Cheers.
  8. Hi Ian, I have a TR6 with Emerald EFI and a Cannon inlet manifold, and after-market exhaust manifold, complete with a Lamda probe. 1. The thickness of the inlet manifold flange, will be thicker than your exhaust manifold, no doubt. The issue here is, when you bolt it up to the head, it will not be flush, due flange thickness. The only way to address this, is to relieve metal from the flange in the areas where your exhaust toggles fit, to a similar thickness to your exhaust manifold. In addition, the after market Payen inlet manifold gaskets available, are not the best quality. They are not that strong with regards to material, and after so many months start to deteriorate and break down. I have seen this for my own eyes. Bastuck in Germany do an excellent quality item, that is exceptional high quality. Part number: MD9TR6. 7.15EUR. The air leak, as perhaps mentioned above, will affect your AFR reading for sure. Good luck. Cheers.
  9. Hi Tim, What front anti-roll bar do you have installed, and do you have nylon bushes ? The RTR uprated item, really does make a huge difference, nose of the car is much tighter and turn-in much better. Alloy track mounts do not transit any harshness through the wheel, and do improve steering accuracy. Finally, do you have any 'lift' in your steering column bushes ? Uprated bushes here, with it nicely assembled, and change the car beyond all recognition, and it no longer feels 'woolly'. Cheers.
  10. Hi Nick, Have to agree. We had the same issue coming back on the ferry from the 10CR a couple of weeks ago. Took about the same time for me to get home. It was an absolute joke. I am all for complying with speed limits where road works are concerned, but not necessarily so when there is no work force in operation.....
  11. Hi Nick, Yes, I did actually, from RTR. Rang the car for quite a few years without though, perhaps with 6j wheels though. Now have the uprated front hubs with larger stub axles and modern Timken wheel bearings.
  12. Standard front wheel bearings on a 6, burdened with 7j wheels and oversized tyres will be absolutely fine. Tried and tested thousands of miles. Cheers.
  13. Looking great, Nick. Damson is a great colour, well suited to the shape. You will need nice brightwork now for contrast, and to complement that fresh paint !
  14. Standard TR6 seats are fine for the 10CR. I have these in mine, and if you have some 4-point harnesses, they will hold you in position fine. Also helps if the seats are original, and not rebuilt. You tend to sit 'in' them, rather than 'on' them. Cheers.
  15. I run a very tuned, fast road TR6, and read this thread with interest. If the engine is assembled well, and very carefully balanced, with a good cooling system and very frequent oil changes, the engines and very robust, smooth and powerful, and will last. I used a ribbed block from a saloon, and I am on a +40 bore, with AE pistons, late TR6 crank, Carrillo rods, Newman cam, Newman steel followers, lightweight steel flywheel, ARP head bolts, line bored, and has not given me a single issue since it was built in 2011, after X2 Round Britain Reliability Events, X3 10 Country events, trip to Le Mans, Sprints and hill climbs, track days, and driven regularly to 6500+RPM based on an electronic (Stack), accurate tachometer. 40-50k miles. I just run a regular crank damper, and had no issues in the department either. Vibration free balanced the below components: AP Racing Clutch cover. Lightweight steel Flywheel Crank pulley Carrillo rods Pistons Camshaft. https://vibrationfree.co.uk/ Not a cheap undertaking, but well worth the effort. Some good advice above, and read with interest ! Cheers.
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