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About Bumblebee

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    Just passed my test!

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  1. Yes I agree normally it would be a no brainer. Its just I need to mock up (ie repair) the exhaust manifolds, and I was going to chuck an old head on for the mocking up. But the more I think about it the more it would seem easier to sling the head on first and be able to get to eye level to see the marks. Hours playing with a dial gauge. Ive managed to get TDC marked already, as the stroke is so short there is hardly any dwell time at the top , its virtually instant. Ive also marked the crank for 110 ABDC for the MOP of the inlet and 110 BTDC for the MOP of the exhaust so I can see easily whats going on. I am sure the head skim will mean its out, its just by how much. Then I need to order offset dowels to realign it all. It is quite good fun in its own way. I picked up a crank pulley which has a 36-1 on it and the sensor is in place. I need to invent a TPS mount for the Webers too.
  2. Quick update. Super tool from Ian Gittings worked brilliantly, and the adaptor he made to pull the bearing carrier is also ace. What a fab bit of kit. Anyhow shafts are off, both shafts are knacked. So were the UJs on both shafts. Shafts from Fitchetts are now 95 quid a pop incl. Shafts from Canleys are 70 quid incl. Reading Roger's thread David (Jumping Frog) said that the Canley shaft was the same as the Fitchett one. I contacted Canley and they said "Our shafts are made here in Coventry and have been for the last 30 years" So based on that I have ordered a pair of shafts from Canley part 155928 which I have typed here in case anyone does a search down the line. I will update with a photo when I get them on the bench. I am using the time to examine the broken self adjusting levers on the brake shoes and see if they can be bodged back to life or if they are terminally broken. Probably the latter. Someone on ebay does replacements, but 48 quid for 2 self adjusters is a bit steep. There is a long brake pedal mind you, although I feel it is more likely to be repro front calipers knocking back too far than anything else. May go on the hunt for some girling ones and rebuild them. Although being a late MK3 they are probably Metric ones. Meanwhile in Twink land the short engine is finished and is going in this weekend. Then its time in the cams with offset dowels and maths.. Although it may be easier to put the head on first and time it before chucking it in .
  3. When I started by latest business I pushed the envelope to the edge in terms of burnout. My work/life balance was ridiculous. I was shattered but could not sleep, I could feel it was close to mental burnout. My wife spotted it , suggested I cut back, and then when I ignored her, she lost the plot on me.... probably saved me from myself bless her. Im glad you wont be pushed about Craig. Good for you. Because we all know they spend 30 seconds sending a "this needs to be done" e mail then move on, as they dont actually HAVE to do it. Project manager my arse. They cant do what yo do, or they would be doing it.
  4. I have seen a system built by these people which was quite nice. https://www.longlife.co.uk/ they have franchises about so maybe there is someone close to you. Weirdly I think they bought Mike the Pipe out many moons ago.
  5. I've got dodgy Revolutions with the (in)famous offset on at the moment. I do have a pair of 13 inch Wolfraces and a pair of Supaslots sitting waiting to be shod and they can go on. The offsets are better. (they stick out further for want of a better term) and the supaslots are a touch "wider" than the wolfraces. Might try the supaslots on the back and the wolfraces on the front. Got to be better than the Revs. They are on Goodyear Efficient Grip 175/70/13 currently. Well once it is all put together I will give it a try by finding a centre line and measuring outwards, then stringing it. There's lots being moved anyhow, with a change to Spit radius arms and thus a change to Spit radius arm mounts on the back, and the front having new springs plus new Konis all round.Front 1 turn rear 1/2 to start. I went 9 inch 450lb and lock wire! Its never been aligned, it feels drifty at speed, not very confidence inspiring. I did the tracking on the front once, but since then I have had to put a new track rod on one end and it was a different length to the old one for some reason. Pattern parts strike again. I will be shocked if the back end is square let alone set right. The front camber looks excessive due to lowering. Rear camber of course is what it is , with a lowering block of 3/4 inch My Camber gauge is a clinometer on my phone! I don't understand caster, it makes my head hurt. I am sure it is important but I dont get it. I do know how to move shims to change it though so I can get it ball park and walk away . I think you have helped me form basis of a plan. Get the back sorted with new bearings, a possible shaft on near side, check and probably do other side too, new trunnions as well both sides, my spit radius arms, bung shocks on front, push out of garage, push back in, get levelled with some tiles to pack then measure it all out with plumb lines and chalk, string it either side and tape measure it all. set cambers on front, set toe on back, then toe on front to finish. List of things for future..... Paint, paint , and possibly get it painted . Box Fuel tank. Actually enjoy driving it for a while. Invent an exhaust mounting system that does not rely on one bobbin exhaust mount to hold the lot up at the back...... yes my fault, yes it did drop, yes it did make the collecter blow, no I'm not happy! I think it needs a couple of mounts tacked on further back to take the weight off the end .
  6. Thanks Nick ... you are right of course. I suppose running around spending money I dont have on the Twink and being on a timeframe is clouding the GT6 which is MY car and Ive not touched the Stag in months. looking on the upside. Rear end wise Diff... done Swing Spring .. done Bearings....done or will be once they turn up Front Wheel Bearings..done Trunnions...done Engine...done Gearbox/OD ...done MJ done Carb linkage for webers..done Shocks being done once bits back.... Steering column bushes...done Wipers done. What it really needs is a full alignment. I may play with string, but dont really trust myself. so really the glass is more than half full.... it does need paint , and I still need to do safety stuff in case I ever hillclimb it. I would like to. Alan gave me loads of advice and I owe it to him to have a go one day. Yeah... its not that bad... .we nearly there... Good work Nick. You are a mental health councillor in disguise. The world is wonderful!
  7. Just an update on bearings in case anyone else ever needs to find them The Roller bearing is a Torrington B-168 (cross referenced from part 117853 The Front Bearing is an iteration of an SKF RLS8-J (GHB117) Koyo still make a B168 . I ordered a pair from Hendersons in Ringwood. All the rest I got from Mick Dolphin who had the front Bearing, oil seals etc in stock. I now await my puller which will reveal whether we need a new shaft. Of course now I have found one side is knackered I will need to check the other. I did forget to mention when cutting out the trunnions, that the metal outer washers had never been installed. This car is truly a bodgers dream. It scares me thinking what I will find next. So far..... too many spacers front of body Swing spring had no pivot plate or pin, and still had the transit shackle on it Front wheel bearings made out of different cups and cones Missing bits on both front and rear trunnions Missing bushes steering column Dearched spitfire swingspring which could not take weight of GT6 Wrong Wiper Switch meaning no park Shot wheels studs (8 of 16 threaded) Diff had 6 stud mounts, only 4 used other 2 not blocked hence no oil but big puddles Radius bushes shot... Im using spitty radius arms on rebuild. ( A tip from GT) Add to this "normal" things like cross threaded bolts/nuts and modern crappy spares and it can quickly send you over the edge. Half of me wants to pull the tub, and measure the chassis in case thats banana, but if I do that it will never move again , as proven by my spitfire. Dunno, its just depressing me at the moment. Makes the lotus look like cutting edge engineering!
  8. Sadly I have yet to get mine on full chatter anywhere. That being said mine will pull through 6k in first and second easily with the PHX (airport code for Phoenix!) pipes. It is deffo the midrange you notice the 6-3-1. It is just much more lively off the bottom when accelerating or overtaking. I still have the 6-2-1... in the interests of science I think you should try it on yours? Namely as I have no intention of trying to force the collector off of my 6-3-1. I had to hammer it on, I doubt very much it will want to part again. It is surprising how much effort it took to get the bits together. The amount it blew would suggest it only touched in once on each pipe!
  9. I took a 6-2-1 off of mine to vput the Phoenix on and the difference (for a road going car) was immense. I mean clearly and immediately obvious. I just wish someone other than Phoenix made them , so they would fit nicely and not leak if you breathed on them .
  10. I spotted it a year ago when I was trying to find a 6/3/1 option that wasnt a phoenix (and failing) I am glad to be of service. although I am surprised I actually remembered.
  11. Ha! I knew someone would mention all the pistons being at the top at the same time. He got it all bolted in and turned it over a few times so he could see things going up and down. The price of Twink bits is sending me over the edge. I need a new oil pickup strainer gauze..... 35 Quid! That being said, during the week this week I am sorting the water pump and tidying all the sandwich plates. Next weekend I am hoping the sump will go on, flywheel, front plate, and we can throw it in the car. The heads going on last once its in the car as we need to throw an old head on there to mock up some new exhaust manifolds (or repair the old ones). Getting the engine in will be a huge moment , and the first time the engine has been in the car for at least 10 years..... then Lewis and Bob the neighbour are wiring it for alternator, whilst I take on another megajolt install. The heads are built and just need timing in. I am hoping it will fire beginning of December. Lewis gets to turn the key. If he built it, he gets the honour of starting it! The camera will be poised for that day! Then its all hands to the pump to get it flatted back, the interior in it and a trip to the MOT man. Given it has not moved for XX years another set of eyes is a no brainer. To be honest Lewis does struggle with classroom learning, but this could give him a great shot of confidence that you can turn your hand to things, follow certain principles and succeed. I hope so anyhow. He even went to the pub with Bob after tidying up, to celebrate with a coke. The idea is to give it to his mum Xmas day, with a folder of photos showing him building it.
  12. Damn! I had already ordered a puller. Thats a bummer! Thanks anyway Roger. I will get it apart and all will become clear. Had fun building short engine with Lewis this weekend for the Elan. Forgive me throwing up a load of photos, but I am quite proud of him. I put the circlips in the pistons ( theres a chance of screwdriver stabbing!) Other than that he did the lot, and we now have a short engine less the sump pan. We need to order a couple of bits before we can close the sump out so its all wrapped in clingfilm now. Photos are not in order but you get the drift. Seemed a shame to put those pistons in an engine, they are lovely Untitled.msg
  13. moss have a collector for a 6-3-1 (but not the actual 6-3-1, I asked!) dunno if this helps or just muddies the water, as it does not seem to have a bend like yours https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/y-piece-exhaust-for-fitting-tt1740x-to-type-d-system-tt52221.html
  14. Thanks Nick, the last comment pointed me in the direction of search, and Roger has advised me Fitchetts ones seem to hang together. Next up is to get a puller, and then see if I can get the hub split and see what gives in there. And then the age old saga of trying to find bearings not made of toothpaste.
  15. Cheers Roger, I wont know if I need shafts until I get the bearings out, but the movement there does not fill me with confidence. Once Ive got a puller all will become clear I suppose. At least I know there is a sensible supplier out there. Enjoy the holiday! Andy
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