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  1. Bumblebee

    Megajolt for the Thug

    Thanks Nick. I am more concerned about the actual mapping than the install. Installing it , it either works or doesnt, there is kind of no middle ground. I think it is trying to build an understanding of what I am actually trying to achieve, something I am not sure about myself really!. I am hoping that adjustments will be clearly felt just in terms of seat of the pants, and over egging the pudding will give me a pinking warning so things will be obvious. Having read your and Alans comments over the last couple of days I am going to re write a map, effectively off of Alans, but expand it down to 20 or 25 percent throttle which is where I am going to be at tootle along mode, find a helper, get at a cruise speed and push advance in touch at a time and see what gives. All this over ignition mapping. Ive got an engine to build at some point.... think of the questions I can ask doing that! Its an old vitesse block with a 308778 cam original pistons knackered crank (eaten at the back by a disappearing thrust washer) and a head thats never had a skim but needs valve guides. Destination my MK2 spitfire if I ever finish welding the body together.. Still thats for another thread at another time.
  2. Bumblebee

    Megajolt for the Thug

    Thanks Alan , that is very interesting, the fact you can effectively begin shifting the torque about using small changes to advance is something I had never really thought about , and as you are using it in a competitive environment I bet its a godsend. I think for me the safest bet is to load a safe curve and book some RR time to get a nice map for fun road use, and get my carbs properly tuned at the same time. I am enjoying learning, every day is a school day as they say. There is a place near me in slough caled Novatech, I will give them a call and have a chat with them. As I mentioned before I am pondering going with some 40 style throttle bodies and going EFI a year or two down the line , so every little thing I learn now helps. Of course the benefit of going MJ now is I can sell the unit when the time comes and I will only have to really deal with the fuelling side of EFI. thks again for sharing your map Andy
  3. Bumblebee

    Megajolt for the Thug

    Good post! This goes to show a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. (on my part I hasten to add!) I had made the assumption load is load is load, without accepting load map based may not correlate to tps loadings. I had worked out yours was upside down , or the right way up depending on your take. Still thats why I loaded it up online and you have spotted it, saving me possibly a great deal of time and money. Funnily enough I have loaded a vaguely modded version of Alans original mapping as the second map. so its the pull of a switch to change to that, which I will do for safety . Thankyou very much Nick. Responses like the above are worth their weight in gold.
  4. Bumblebee

    Megajolt for the Thug

    Well fairly extensive experience is something I dont have , so I will take that advice. Now I have the EDIS I may as well maximise what it gives me. The actual mapping side of things is a dark art to me so I am going to stick with the curve I extrapolated from Nick's map. Am I right in saying below 40 percent throttle I am just running effectively the first line of the map. I set my map to come in at 40 percent throttle which is the way I rerad Nicks one This is what I plonked in , allowing for fact I had to narrow his map as MJ is only 10x10. I am putting it up now, just in case I have made a huge cockup that someone spots. In essence I am saying... check this please! Tickover is 800 ish on my car and the webers dont like less than 15 hence that being the opening number on every line.
  5. Bumblebee

    Megajolt for the Thug

    Ahh, Electrical stuff sends me over the edge very quickly! I work it all out on a piece of paper but then it goes wrong once theres 20 wires all over the place. Well according to MJ, the E mk2 with usb connection now comes with built in hard rev limiter. I cant say its a disaster it not working, although it sent me down yet another electrical dead end. I aim to come back to it but never will probably. Should I leave plug gaps the same or open them a tad now I have, in theory at least , a big fat spark . It is without doubt more responsive on the throttle, and stutters less in transition. I am quite impressed. I am sure a good rolling road can tune the carbs and tweak the map and I can move on to the next thing. Which is probably front suspension. Well once the oil filter issues are sorted.
  6. Bumblebee

    Megajolt for the Thug

    Well I decided to go on holiday so things took a back seat for a while but this weekend , after much faffing I finally got things to work! There was more than one visit to Alan's thread to see how people went around problems. I decided the best thing to do was to mount the megajolt assembly onto a board first which would then be fitted to the car interior. A bit of rooting about in a crap pile at work and I had enough bits to put the thing together , so I spent a friday night with crimpers building the molex connectors and ended up with a tidyish board to put in the car . I warn you now this is as neat as it gets. Everything else after this will look more and more spaghetti wiring! On to mounting the EDIS and coilpack. I decided to use the old servo mount to mount the EDIS onto , as it would also allow me a dedicated Earth mount, and mounts for the two relays I was installing, one for EDIS and one for the MJ itself. The front servo mount was having the plug leads fed through it so I did not end up with loads of trailing plug leads. It turns out it was the one part of the install that is vaguely tidy. I am currently running triple 40s so I got someone to machine an adaptor for the rear one , then tapped and threaded it and screwed it onto the rear carb. I threadlocked , then drilled thru the spindle shaft and put in a split pin for added security. Once all together I made a mount for the TPS, and blobbed it with some mig to hold it all in place. I have not tidied any of this up yet so dont judge me! I am not the greatest welder anyhow. I then tried to fire the car, without the MJ plugged in. When it didnt start but let go a couple of big carb spits, one which almost blew a filter sock across the road I played with leads. I worked on the theory the middle ones must be right , so swapped left and right, and it fired straight up. Feeling flushed with success decided to mount the fan on the front of the pulley only to discover it interfered with the bracket for the VR sensor, which I could not shorten. Modded the fan by taking chunks out the back with the grinder! This does not matter, it will have an electric fan soon, but I wanted some kind of cooling whilst I played, and an out of balance plastic fan is no biggy short term. I also did not hit the 10 degree mark which annoyed me somewhat, but it was not a mile off , so adjustable in MJ . Finally on Sunday morning I wired in the MJ itself sorted the relays and fired it. I had loaded a mildly modded version of the Nick Vitesse map he put on Alan's thread I think, and calibrated the TPS which was remarkably painless. I went for a first fire and got sweet Fanny Adams. Now according to my reading of the instructions, one pin from MJ is to run the coil pack live , enabling hard rev limiting. However my wire out of MJ is/was doing nothing, no live output as all. I dont know why , I have still to play with it. So a quick run to the engine area and I wired the coilpack off the EDIS feed and fired it. It works, it switches maps, it does what it is supposed to. Go me , I am a genius. Ask my 12 year old assistant to turn off the engine. Ask him again, he hands me the keys.... the engine is still running! Ahhh.... A quick root about and I discover I have swapped a couple of relay leads so the ignition is not turning relays off. What a plum. Anyhow took it for a test drive. Wow. It really does make a noticeable difference. A Question... will a stronger spark change me AFR readings? It seemed to be running leaner across the board, but without the usual weber spitting when too lean. Maybe its just me. Decided to plumb back in my spin on adaptor with oil cooler and an oilstat. The cooler and adaptor were on the car when I got it but no stat. I have been using a cartridge filter whilst running in. Fitted adaptor.... fired car. Pissing oil everywhere . Start after sorting, no oil pressure at tickover, despite me knowing the oil pump is good..... as it just pissed oil everywhere. Weird. Read up about dodgy old spin on adaptors and that new spring loaded ones are better. Will order one. So I fitted a new canister filter and started. It has no oil leaks but zero gauge pressure and light still on. I gave it a quick rev up to 2000 ish and suddenly oil gauge leaps to 60 and light goes out. I wonder if something was stuck then cleared. I will have to investigate. So all in all a success. My MJ is the latest with a USB port so I did not have to battle cables etc. I need to revisit the wiring to tidy it all up and solder the currently crimped terminals, but using crimps did help me sort problems quickly. Then I will add my electric fan and a new spin on adaptor, hopefully sort this weird oil pressure thing and get to a rolling road if I can find one locally to sort out my map, and my webers properly. Thanks to all who have been before ,who answered lots of questions with the search facility!
  7. Bumblebee

    Megajolt for the Thug

    Hi Alan, Reading your thread was what made me decide to go down the mapped ignition route. My car is a fun "toy " for the road but with triple 40s which we don't want to loose short term as we like the noise! They do however want lots of initial advance like 16 degrees, which if I wind into the dizzy puts all in advance up in the 35 area. Not a real problem currently as I am running in so apart from acceleration I am not anywhere near WOT, but I'm sure there are economies to be had by sorting a 3D map and getting something more sensible in terms of MPG, and still controlling the all in advance on big throttle openings. Whether I keep the 40s long term depends on whether I ever get the Webers running well (ie jetted by a pro) and with some kind of economy. If not EFI will be a long term goal. Your thread is my go to thread and answered a lot of my questions before I started. Thanks both for your tips on wiring. I think I will crimp to get it fired onto the EDIS, then solder and heatshrink the final example. Whats the odds I get hung up trying to sort the oil leak , and get no where near fitting the EDIS!
  8. Name: GT6 and Stag Category: Vehicles Date Added: 2018-05-25 Submitter: Bumblebee GT6 and Stag
  9. Bumblebee

    GT6 and Stag

    GT6 and Stag
  10. I have decided to Megajolt the GT6 , which my lad has renamed "Thug" after having been out in the Stag last weekend, he says being in the 6 is like being beaten with a stick! The long term plan is to go EFI , but I dont have the funds to throw at it currently(or indeed the skills to make plenums and stuff) so I have decided to MJ. It means the sensors coilpacks etc will be in when I do decide to go EFI , and I can just sell the MJ ... Long term I am thinking Jenvey style DCOE throttle bodies and Emerald..... hence my need to save up! So with this in mind this weekend will see me start with the setup. I want to keep the car running whilst I get stuff sorted so I will try and run it kind of parallel to the dizzy short term until I have the EDIS side working, then do the Megajolt over a weekend in a fortnight or so when I am back from Holiday. So far I have this bit done... As the car is currently on triple 40s I have had an adaptor machined to extend the throttle spindle on the rearmost carb as I am going to run on a TPS for the 3D side of the ignition. The plan for this weekend is to get the pulley off and the timing cover (which leaks like a sieve when hot but is dry when cold!), see if I can sort the oil leak, mount the pulley with the trigger wheel and the VR sensor and see if I can get it to fire on EDIS. If things go well I will also try and mount the TPS. I will just point to point wire short term to test as the wiring in the car is a mess anyhow and I will sort the whole lot together once the lot is in and I know exactly where everything is going. I understand the wiring is vital to get right in terms of good positive connections. One question, the first of many I am sure, is what is the best way of joining wires. In normal circumstances I would just crimp and spade connector stuff together, but as I want the system to be reliable and sound is there a "best practice" to avoid wiring pitfalls. Anyhow I will try and update with photos as I go on.... this is the latest Megajolt with USB connectivity, it will be interesting to see if it helps avoid the refusing to talk to laptop problems people have had.
  11. Bumblebee

    Hi from new member in Hampshire

    The wheels were on it when I got it but whoever fitted them did not bother checking them for clearance and I am sure they are the wrong offset, but some track rod end adjustment ie adjusting them a tad on both sides means they no longer catch. I am going to put spacers on them though for peace of mind. I quite like the look of them , pity they arent right! Onto the carbs. When I got the car they were on there, but you couldn't sync them due to the linkage and they were all over the place. However the valve stems were shot so the head had to come off. seeing as I was pulling the head, and the crunchy gearbox I decided to pull the whole engine and have a look. the car is registered as a 2.5 and indeed had a cp block in it, but when opened it up all the internals were well worn 2 litre bits. Here I may have to duck for cover but I had my box sorted by TLD and at the same time had a worked head and cam off him. I had the block decked the whole lot balanced the crank ground the rods all made "round" again, cam bearings installed and the flywheel lightened a bit and rebuilt it into a proper 2 litre. I have a pair of SU carbs on a ported manifold but I just couldn't resist throwing the webers on despite knowing I could sort the SUs a lot easier and it would not be as juicy.. The fuel pump it a Huco low pressure pump from FastRoadCars which is supposed to run at 2.2 psi ish , although I have not put a regulator on it yet. All the floats have been adjusted more than once as I adjusted them , then measured fuel height down a main jet hole then readjusted. I have had to push more fuel through at idle to cover lean patch on low throttle. As I say I read on here a lot of people suggest 50F11 but that made her awful lean off idle like afr 17! so currently back on 45f9 ticking over at 12ish afr makng low throttles circa 12.5 to 13.5 afr. Setting AFR at nearer 14 on tickover makes it run lean, into late 15 early 16s....The rocker breather just drops to a catch can vented to atmosphere. its set at 15.5 btdc on tiining but Im going to EDIS it at some point, the dizzy is a vitesse on and it starts the advance curve quite early Here is a pic of the carbs now I have modded the linkage, ignore the copper pipe and unconnected heater pipes, I am currently mocking up to reinstate the heater I dont need! Thanks for taking an interest , much appeciated. I also have a stag which Ive reshelled , and a MK2 spitfire which is a longterm project and the shell of which is currently leaning against the garage wall whilst I finish welding rear wheel arches in it sorry for the essay. Andy
  12. Bumblebee

    Hi from new member in Hampshire

    The wheels are the same size, the photo makes them look different. Sadly the panel gaps dont look that good any more. Ive got a picture of the carbs prior to cutting off the ridiculously poorly designed linkage and putting it back again on rose joints. I will try and get a picture of the modified setup at some point. Yes I have put some filter socks on it , all be it cheapo ones! I need to sort the idle jets out. Ive had to richen it up at tickover or it goes lean on part throttle on 45F9. I tried some 50F11 but that made it leaner! think I will try a 50f9 and see what happens. Ive got some SUs and the original inlet manifold but the induction noise from webers is kind of addictive. Ive got an AFR meter to guide me , and the nipper writes down the figures on his co pilot bit of paper. Andy
  13. Bumblebee

    Hi from new member in Hampshire

    This is her/him/it I found it online ,its long before I owned it. It has 2 wiper blades now for starters, The wheels need spacers as the fronts catch the track rods... Theres loads to do, but seeing as she is now running want to drive her for a bit just to get some faith in her.
  14. Hi to one and all. I have been lurking for a while but when I tried to lurk yesterday for some info I needed there was no one in! This caused me to realise if I am using the facilities I should buck up, join, donate, and get involved. So I have a Yellow GT6 , a bit tatty, with the worlds worst painted black stripes, hence the "bumblebee"picked by my son,which was once (a while ago) owned by someone else who was on the forum. I bought it sight unseen off the bay, and to be fair it hasnt been that bad. I originally found Sideways when looking for the best way to modify my weber linkages to actually make them work. I have now done that mod, although my "engineering" is not up there with some on here. I have also "discovered a raft of other, er, issues. Such as removing the diff to sort out an oil leak to discover... the oil leak was due to not blocking off the spare 2 stud holes.... the swing spring had no base plate, no spacer, and no horizontal bolt BUT... it did still have the transit shackle on one side! Weirdly it drives a lot better now those bits are sorted. Anyhow I probably dont have a lot to offer in terms of knowledge, but I hope to get involved here and there. Ive got loads of things I will need to sort, weber jetting, wheel alignment, EDIS which will be my next project, etc etc etc...One thing at a time though, currently just driving her. Andy