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About Bumblebee

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    Just passed my test!

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  1. Well the fan won't switch on and one carb is leaking. But..... Well done Lewis.... It started. First hit. VID_20200113_130844.mp4
  2. Maybe try Mick Dolphin, see if he has any NOS valves kicking about? He found a few for me last time I was doing anything Triumph related. In fact he always seems to find stuff I cant get anywhere.
  3. Heres mine if it helps. GT6 on a 35/75 cam ported head triple webers.
  4. Well if we get to that stage before the car bankrupts me I will be sure to get a video, his face will be a picture as and when it fires. It does look quite good in pictures, sadly in "real life" there are plenty of sat in the workshop XXX years scratches, the windscreen needs to come out and go in again, there are no front seats or indeed doors on it, and being a Lotus I imagine about 250 wiring problems will need to be overcome. The headlights have no headlight in them , the vacuums are untested to lift them, the door cards are awful, the seats need foam and the VIN plate is somewhere but no one knows where. BUT... the brakes work, as will the clutch in a day or so once weve invented a clutch line using solid brake line to the chassis then a goodridge MGB brake line to the slave. Weve ripped the coilpack and crank sensor out of a scrapper Fiesta. It didnt have an EDIS though so I am going to try a Nodiz setup on it and see what happens. Simply as it comes with a ford loom kit so is in theory plug and play. Gonna try and run the coilpack live from the old coil live though to try and convince the RVI tacho to work.
  5. This weekend saw the twink go back into the Lotus. First time it has had an engine in it for over 25 years. My youngest built this engine himself, with assistance from Bob the neighbour , and I am posting it here as I am quite proud of him. He struggles away at school (dyslexia issues) but he has put his heart and soul into this . Forgive me therefore posting some shots of his work. Now its in we can work out where to chuck the coil pack for the ignition side of stuff. Note the crank pulley covered in graffiti. TDC MOP inlet MOP exhaust, sensor at TDC and tooth to be removed all written on there. He put the top cover on to see what it looked like. Bob told him how to time the cams and left him to it, with me to help him. The carbs are just resting on the studs whilst we worked out how much room was under them for coil pack mounting. Turns out there's loads. Bob just needs to double check his timing work now and the top can be bolted on and we can mock up the manifolds and plumb it, sort out the wiring from dynamo to alternator, chuck in the management for ignition and get some fuel lines in. In other news the rear end of the GT6 is all together with new shafts and bolts. Just need to get the grease gun onto the back then the front shocks can go on. I will then attempt to stringline it all into shape.
  6. Yes I agree normally it would be a no brainer. Its just I need to mock up (ie repair) the exhaust manifolds, and I was going to chuck an old head on for the mocking up. But the more I think about it the more it would seem easier to sling the head on first and be able to get to eye level to see the marks. Hours playing with a dial gauge. Ive managed to get TDC marked already, as the stroke is so short there is hardly any dwell time at the top , its virtually instant. Ive also marked the crank for 110 ABDC for the MOP of the inlet and 110 BTDC for the MOP of the exhaust so I can see easily whats going on. I am sure the head skim will mean its out, its just by how much. Then I need to order offset dowels to realign it all. It is quite good fun in its own way. I picked up a crank pulley which has a 36-1 on it and the sensor is in place. I need to invent a TPS mount for the Webers too.
  7. Quick update. Super tool from Ian Gittings worked brilliantly, and the adaptor he made to pull the bearing carrier is also ace. What a fab bit of kit. Anyhow shafts are off, both shafts are knacked. So were the UJs on both shafts. Shafts from Fitchetts are now 95 quid a pop incl. Shafts from Canleys are 70 quid incl. Reading Roger's thread David (Jumping Frog) said that the Canley shaft was the same as the Fitchett one. I contacted Canley and they said "Our shafts are made here in Coventry and have been for the last 30 years" So based on that I have ordered a pair of shafts from Canley part 155928 which I have typed here in case anyone does a search down the line. I will update with a photo when I get them on the bench. I am using the time to examine the broken self adjusting levers on the brake shoes and see if they can be bodged back to life or if they are terminally broken. Probably the latter. Someone on ebay does replacements, but 48 quid for 2 self adjusters is a bit steep. There is a long brake pedal mind you, although I feel it is more likely to be repro front calipers knocking back too far than anything else. May go on the hunt for some girling ones and rebuild them. Although being a late MK3 they are probably Metric ones. Meanwhile in Twink land the short engine is finished and is going in this weekend. Then its time in the cams with offset dowels and maths.. Although it may be easier to put the head on first and time it before chucking it in .
  8. When I started by latest business I pushed the envelope to the edge in terms of burnout. My work/life balance was ridiculous. I was shattered but could not sleep, I could feel it was close to mental burnout. My wife spotted it , suggested I cut back, and then when I ignored her, she lost the plot on me.... probably saved me from myself bless her. Im glad you wont be pushed about Craig. Good for you. Because we all know they spend 30 seconds sending a "this needs to be done" e mail then move on, as they dont actually HAVE to do it. Project manager my arse. They cant do what yo do, or they would be doing it.
  9. I have seen a system built by these people which was quite nice. https://www.longlife.co.uk/ they have franchises about so maybe there is someone close to you. Weirdly I think they bought Mike the Pipe out many moons ago.
  10. I've got dodgy Revolutions with the (in)famous offset on at the moment. I do have a pair of 13 inch Wolfraces and a pair of Supaslots sitting waiting to be shod and they can go on. The offsets are better. (they stick out further for want of a better term) and the supaslots are a touch "wider" than the wolfraces. Might try the supaslots on the back and the wolfraces on the front. Got to be better than the Revs. They are on Goodyear Efficient Grip 175/70/13 currently. Well once it is all put together I will give it a try by finding a centre line and measuring outwards, then stringing it. There's lots being moved anyhow, with a change to Spit radius arms and thus a change to Spit radius arm mounts on the back, and the front having new springs plus new Konis all round.Front 1 turn rear 1/2 to start. I went 9 inch 450lb and lock wire! Its never been aligned, it feels drifty at speed, not very confidence inspiring. I did the tracking on the front once, but since then I have had to put a new track rod on one end and it was a different length to the old one for some reason. Pattern parts strike again. I will be shocked if the back end is square let alone set right. The front camber looks excessive due to lowering. Rear camber of course is what it is , with a lowering block of 3/4 inch My Camber gauge is a clinometer on my phone! I don't understand caster, it makes my head hurt. I am sure it is important but I dont get it. I do know how to move shims to change it though so I can get it ball park and walk away . I think you have helped me form basis of a plan. Get the back sorted with new bearings, a possible shaft on near side, check and probably do other side too, new trunnions as well both sides, my spit radius arms, bung shocks on front, push out of garage, push back in, get levelled with some tiles to pack then measure it all out with plumb lines and chalk, string it either side and tape measure it all. set cambers on front, set toe on back, then toe on front to finish. List of things for future..... Paint, paint , and possibly get it painted . Box Fuel tank. Actually enjoy driving it for a while. Invent an exhaust mounting system that does not rely on one bobbin exhaust mount to hold the lot up at the back...... yes my fault, yes it did drop, yes it did make the collecter blow, no I'm not happy! I think it needs a couple of mounts tacked on further back to take the weight off the end .
  11. Thanks Nick ... you are right of course. I suppose running around spending money I dont have on the Twink and being on a timeframe is clouding the GT6 which is MY car and Ive not touched the Stag in months. looking on the upside. Rear end wise Diff... done Swing Spring .. done Bearings....done or will be once they turn up Front Wheel Bearings..done Trunnions...done Engine...done Gearbox/OD ...done MJ done Carb linkage for webers..done Shocks being done once bits back.... Steering column bushes...done Wipers done. What it really needs is a full alignment. I may play with string, but dont really trust myself. so really the glass is more than half full.... it does need paint , and I still need to do safety stuff in case I ever hillclimb it. I would like to. Alan gave me loads of advice and I owe it to him to have a go one day. Yeah... its not that bad... .we nearly there... Good work Nick. You are a mental health councillor in disguise. The world is wonderful!
  12. Just an update on bearings in case anyone else ever needs to find them The Roller bearing is a Torrington B-168 (cross referenced from part 117853 The Front Bearing is an iteration of an SKF RLS8-J (GHB117) Koyo still make a B168 . I ordered a pair from Hendersons in Ringwood. All the rest I got from Mick Dolphin who had the front Bearing, oil seals etc in stock. I now await my puller which will reveal whether we need a new shaft. Of course now I have found one side is knackered I will need to check the other. I did forget to mention when cutting out the trunnions, that the metal outer washers had never been installed. This car is truly a bodgers dream. It scares me thinking what I will find next. So far..... too many spacers front of body Swing spring had no pivot plate or pin, and still had the transit shackle on it Front wheel bearings made out of different cups and cones Missing bits on both front and rear trunnions Missing bushes steering column Dearched spitfire swingspring which could not take weight of GT6 Wrong Wiper Switch meaning no park Shot wheels studs (8 of 16 threaded) Diff had 6 stud mounts, only 4 used other 2 not blocked hence no oil but big puddles Radius bushes shot... Im using spitty radius arms on rebuild. ( A tip from GT) Add to this "normal" things like cross threaded bolts/nuts and modern crappy spares and it can quickly send you over the edge. Half of me wants to pull the tub, and measure the chassis in case thats banana, but if I do that it will never move again , as proven by my spitfire. Dunno, its just depressing me at the moment. Makes the lotus look like cutting edge engineering!
  13. Sadly I have yet to get mine on full chatter anywhere. That being said mine will pull through 6k in first and second easily with the PHX (airport code for Phoenix!) pipes. It is deffo the midrange you notice the 6-3-1. It is just much more lively off the bottom when accelerating or overtaking. I still have the 6-2-1... in the interests of science I think you should try it on yours? Namely as I have no intention of trying to force the collector off of my 6-3-1. I had to hammer it on, I doubt very much it will want to part again. It is surprising how much effort it took to get the bits together. The amount it blew would suggest it only touched in once on each pipe!
  14. I took a 6-2-1 off of mine to vput the Phoenix on and the difference (for a road going car) was immense. I mean clearly and immediately obvious. I just wish someone other than Phoenix made them , so they would fit nicely and not leak if you breathed on them .
  15. I spotted it a year ago when I was trying to find a 6/3/1 option that wasnt a phoenix (and failing) I am glad to be of service. although I am surprised I actually remembered.
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