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Greta

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About Greta

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  1. https://acm.mc/en/edition/rallye-monte-carlo-historique-edition-2020/ Here is the link to the event info from this years edition. By tradition it begins a week after the WRC Monte Carlo Rally season opener. This year we departed Glasgow on January 29th - and I think the Historique finished in Monaco on the evening of 3rd of January. There's plenty of footage on Youtube and blogs etc to read via FB and the like. Only Three Triumphs entered in 2020 - both the GT6 & TR3 finished but sadly the UK crew in a replica Triumph 2000 failed 3/4 through with a blown engine. The french form of regularity rallying is a little difficult to understand - it would seem that on many sections unless you have a very powerful car one is always going to be running behind the clock - in which case having the reliability to just finish would be the first objective - while maintaining in touch with cars in one's own class would bring added honours. I'm hoping Dale will print the account of our adventure on The Monte Classique in the forth coming edition of Club Torque.
  2. Monte Classique >>> Monte Historique - several of you will know my enthusiasm for driving Triumphs far exceeds my technical abilities to maintain them - and so it is a quandary how I would progress from doing a mere tour to giving the Full Monte a spirited go! How far does your love of spannering take you? Is it from the kitchen kettle to the back of the workshop - but not much further? I know some of you do circuits but the number of these events seem fewer than before.... Would any of you consider trundling around in a van - half lost in France with the aim of keeping my Spitfire or GT6 Road Rally car on the road long enough to once again reach Monte Carlo? I'd love to do the Monte Historique but realise that without a decent service crew I'd probably not get very far. So - you guys have been a great help with several problems - what does the team think? I might be able to cover expenses but couldn't afford to pay!.. Anyway - if nothing else I hope this sparks a little debate and gets you to ask yourself would such a thing be fun!
  3. Cheers - Just found Westfield Fastners: https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/A2_ScrewBolt_HexHd_UNCoarse0.3125_THRfull.html thanks
  4. Happy Christmas ... my first day in the garage for nearly 5 weeks sees me hit all kinds of frustrations ... but I know you guys will love some distraction from the family Christmas I recently got two K&N Air Filters from Ebay for my 1 1/4 SU HS2 ( Spitfire MKII ) - but the bolts supplied don't seem to fit the casting on the carb body - The original air filter box was attached with 4 x HB867 - longish bolts ... I need the equivalent threaded bolts short enough to fit inside the K&N units. The originals look like UNC - but can anyone tell me the bits I need before I buy lots of random bolts - Thanks
  5. Hi Nick - do both the adjusters work throughout their full range?
  6. If you've the feel to tip toe a car on the edge of adhesion through a chicane - you can probably pick up skiing quiet quickly..its all about balance - weighting & unweighting ... the trick is to lean out and down, to compress and then un weight the ski, ...to drive the turn with your big toe and shin ... modern short waisted skis make turning so much easier than it used to be .... it's great fun and a lunch time schnapps helps ease the afternoon aches & pains... Go for it!
  7. Well I've striped and cleaned the black sludge out of the mech fuel pump & reassembled and apart from a slight leak from the top cap bolt the car is again running on the mechanical pump... ... but it worries me about the sludge - is this going to quickly re accumulate? and is it a result of the fuel hoses degrading due to Ethanol??
  8. 10CR - what a great event! Spitfire MKIV 1500 ran very well apart from a failure to the mechanical fuel pump... could that be that the E5 Ethanol ate the diaphragm. Many thanks to Matt for lending me a Facet Pump and all who helped fettle the fix. Also need a refurb to the n/s half shaft UJ & wheel bearings that were deemed ok at recent MOT ( well c 4k miles ago! ) I'm just about to get spannering to strip the pumps and inspect. ... Any advice about replacement mechanical / electrical fuel pumps much appreciated. eg. reliability of replacement mech. pumps ref ethanol, what psi on an electrical, need for pressure regulator, cylindrical vs cube, .. suppliers of 1/4 or 6mm ??? fuel hose.... and best place to get good wheel bearings and UJ's ... ... the the car's going to the back of the garage while the others get some TLC.
  9. Awhh shame ... is Vicky's Spitfire not on the road? You could always aim to do Monte Classique in early February! ...plenty mountain passes in the south of France - and Geoffrey would be reliving part of TR Rallying History.
  10. https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/spitfire-and-gt6-forum.8/engaging-overdrive-in-second-gear.1310556/ This thread seems to cover the topic ... but I'd still appreciate contact with any that have experience of making it work in practice - so I can discuss the pros & cons , do's & don'ts - and any stylish switches / mounts / warning lights
  11. feel I'm chickening out by taking my MKIV Spitfire on 10CR and not my MKII. Back in the day the Rallying Spitfires did The Alpine and Monte etc and I'm chickening out of taking the Alpine passes in my 1147cc. Problem is - she has a fast road cam ( comes in at c. 3200rpm ) and a 3:89 Diff - therefore ... great for cruising the long miles to the Alps - but not so good for pulling up the hills - she struggles to pull 3rd as the revs drop... The thought of grinding and buzzing away from lacet to lacet in 2nd doesn't really appeal. Logically a gear in the long gap between 2nd & 3rd seems the obvious answer. The simplest solution I've heard seems to be just to completely bypass the inhibitor switch by joining both wires ... but this solves one problem and creates two ... a) risk of trashing o/d by reversing with o/d engaged & b) would require me to simultaneously drop O/D as I changed up from O/D 2nd to 3rd. Now I'm not that technical - it takes Janet & John type explanations before I even begin to comprehend many issues ... but I guess what I'm asking is: can anyone provide a step by step guide to adding O/D 2nd to to my options? Better still, point me in the direction of an affordable workshop experienced in achieving this mod without sacrificing any long-term reliability. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-158072UR - could the replacement actuator be adapted to work on 2nd too? Has anyone done this? An old post on Triumph Experience suggests: "My calculations show the 2-over would be a very middle position between 2 and 3. Second is 2.16 2-Over I think would be 2.16 x 0.797 = 1.72, and Third is 1.39 " ... so I think I've talked myself through the theory and that by machining a correctly shaped actuator - understand perhaps how it can be achieved ... I just really need someone with the engineering competence, experience and workshop facilities to make it happen ... anyone? ( PS ... is there no way on here that one can edit ones original post? )
  12. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-158072UR - could the replacement actuator be adapted to work on 2nd too? Has anyone done this?
  13. I feel I'm chickening out by taking my MKIV Spitfire on 10CR and not my MKII. Back in the day the Rallying Spitfires did The Alpine and Monte etc and I'm chickening out of taking the Alpine passes in my 1147cc. Problem is - she has a fast road cam ( comes in at c. 3200rpm ) and a 3:89 Diff - therefore ... great for cruising the long miles to the Alps - but not so good for pulling up the hills - she struggles to pull 3rd as the revs drop... The thought of grinding and buzzing away from lacet to lacet in 2nd doesn't really appeal. Logically a gear in the long gap between 2nd & 3rd seems the obvious answer. The simplest solution I've heard seems to be just to completely bypass the inhibitor switch by joining both wires ... but this solves one problem and creates two ... a) risk of trashing o/d by reversing with o/d engaged & b) would require me to simultaneously drop O/D as I changed up from O/D 2nd to 3rd. Now I'm not that technical - it takes Janet & John type explanations before I even begin to comprehend many issues ... but I guess what I'm asking is: can anyone provide a step by step guide to adding O/D 2nd to to my options? Better still, point me in the direction of an affordable workshop experienced in achieving this mod without sacrificing any long-term reliability.
  14. Ok - sorted - by placing two spanners side by side @ 10 to 4 I finally got it shifted ... now to all you ol' grease monkeys this is probably simple stuff - but to an engineering numpty like me - this appliance of the old grey matter is something of a mini triumph !
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