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Greta

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About Greta

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  1. https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/spitfire-and-gt6-forum.8/engaging-overdrive-in-second-gear.1310556/ This thread seems to cover the topic ... but I'd still appreciate contact with any that have experience of making it work in practice - so I can discuss the pros & cons , do's & don'ts - and any stylish switches / mounts / warning lights
  2. feel I'm chickening out by taking my MKIV Spitfire on 10CR and not my MKII. Back in the day the Rallying Spitfires did The Alpine and Monte etc and I'm chickening out of taking the Alpine passes in my 1147cc. Problem is - she has a fast road cam ( comes in at c. 3200rpm ) and a 3:89 Diff - therefore ... great for cruising the long miles to the Alps - but not so good for pulling up the hills - she struggles to pull 3rd as the revs drop... The thought of grinding and buzzing away from lacet to lacet in 2nd doesn't really appeal. Logically a gear in the long gap between 2nd & 3rd seems the obvious answer. The simplest solution I've heard seems to be just to completely bypass the inhibitor switch by joining both wires ... but this solves one problem and creates two ... a) risk of trashing o/d by reversing with o/d engaged & b) would require me to simultaneously drop O/D as I changed up from O/D 2nd to 3rd. Now I'm not that technical - it takes Janet & John type explanations before I even begin to comprehend many issues ... but I guess what I'm asking is: can anyone provide a step by step guide to adding O/D 2nd to to my options? Better still, point me in the direction of an affordable workshop experienced in achieving this mod without sacrificing any long-term reliability. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-158072UR - could the replacement actuator be adapted to work on 2nd too? Has anyone done this? An old post on Triumph Experience suggests: "My calculations show the 2-over would be a very middle position between 2 and 3. Second is 2.16 2-Over I think would be 2.16 x 0.797 = 1.72, and Third is 1.39 " ... so I think I've talked myself through the theory and that by machining a correctly shaped actuator - understand perhaps how it can be achieved ... I just really need someone with the engineering competence, experience and workshop facilities to make it happen ... anyone? ( PS ... is there no way on here that one can edit ones original post? )
  3. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-158072UR - could the replacement actuator be adapted to work on 2nd too? Has anyone done this?
  4. I feel I'm chickening out by taking my MKIV Spitfire on 10CR and not my MKII. Back in the day the Rallying Spitfires did The Alpine and Monte etc and I'm chickening out of taking the Alpine passes in my 1147cc. Problem is - she has a fast road cam ( comes in at c. 3200rpm ) and a 3:89 Diff - therefore ... great for cruising the long miles to the Alps - but not so good for pulling up the hills - she struggles to pull 3rd as the revs drop... The thought of grinding and buzzing away from lacet to lacet in 2nd doesn't really appeal. Logically a gear in the long gap between 2nd & 3rd seems the obvious answer. The simplest solution I've heard seems to be just to completely bypass the inhibitor switch by joining both wires ... but this solves one problem and creates two ... a) risk of trashing o/d by reversing with o/d engaged & b) would require me to simultaneously drop O/D as I changed up from O/D 2nd to 3rd. Now I'm not that technical - it takes Janet & John type explanations before I even begin to comprehend many issues ... but I guess what I'm asking is: can anyone provide a step by step guide to adding O/D 2nd to to my options? Better still, point me in the direction of an affordable workshop experienced in achieving this mod without sacrificing any long-term reliability.
  5. Ok - sorted - by placing two spanners side by side @ 10 to 4 I finally got it shifted ... now to all you ol' grease monkeys this is probably simple stuff - but to an engineering numpty like me - this appliance of the old grey matter is something of a mini triumph !
  6. On my MKII Spitfire I'm trying to remove the Oil Pressure Sender so I can stack it with an adaptor to take a mechanical oil pressure gauge take off. The previous fitter has over tightened it and I'm stuck. Its an awkward fit - I've removed engine side panel & oil filter, but spanners still seem to foul dizzy mount, & fuel pump. Short of hacksawing off the sender part and banging on a socket I'm stuck - It seems to be a 13mm collar but approaching at the angles possible I'm rounding off the shoulders. Am I missing something? - opposite threads? - has the wrong size sender been fitted? Is there a spanner with a flexy open end to angle the shaft slightly so I can hit the bloody thing. If you've been here and remember what you did - please let me know.
  7. Is this the first "up the tube" for team torpedo this time around - what other missile will they be choosing next?
  8. Great thanks John - seems like I should allow 3mm for every 90 degree bend. As I'm mounting the clock bracket in front of the navigator on a new full width dash but also trying to keep the taller front facia of the box proud of the dash top - yet keep the whole unit slim enough not to intrude the cabin ( map boards etc etc ) ... and I don't currently have enough scrap sheet to make a MKII - I'd like to try to get it right from the off. And btw - isn't it great that all such things have already been worked out by some one.
  9. Advice Please I want to make a small box section with Magnetic feet on which to mount my analogue Stopwatches so the unit is fixable and removable to/from my rally dash. On paper - its fairly simple to measure the sequence of rectangular sections that I'll progressively fold - however in making a thick cardboard mock-up it seems that I need to account for a "x" measurement that will disappear into the radius of each fold! Does anyone have experience on how much should be allowed for each fold. I'll be using 1-2mm sheet steel to make my box. ( I'm not bothering to close the ends as this will allow spanner access to tighten nuts etc. Thanks
  10. Well ! - I'm glad that stirred up a hornets nest of opinions... I believe that the science of Global Warming / Climate Change is now irrefutable - it is just a matter of both personal opinion & collective action what our future holds. We either carry on regardless or begin to modify our behaviour. I'm not wanting to spoil anyone's fun - just prompting all to consider what they / we can or should do? I hear those that are sceptical about the efficacy of Carbon Offset schemes but have gained a little insight with the help of our own UK Woodlands Trust ... charity begins at home! Your calculations look pretty robust – just check 1,000 = £3.75 so 1 mile = 0.375p so if you want to round to your generous figure of 1p/mile that’s fine. 0.25 tonnes of Carbon per 1000 miles driven – then ……. 1 tonne CO2 = 4000 miles 1 tonne CO2 = £15 0.25 tonnes = £3.75 1000 miles = £3.75 1 mile = 0.375p On their authority an average car generates about 1 tonne of CO2 every 1000 miles - at these rates of Carbon Offset - I'm sure we can all consider making donations towards planting & conserving UK Woodlands. I hope to be able to develop a scheme by which we can together begin to make a difference. If anyone else is interested in helping me further this initiative please do get in touch.
  11. Thanks Nick - I'll give it a go - the car is new to me and I'm expecting a few fails and advisories but good to do things I can spot. It's a fairly easy way for me to create a "job list" ... expect a few more questions !
  12. Just a quickie I'm trying to fix a leaking Brake Master Cylinder prior to a MOT - I've had limited success in servicing them in the past ... ended up with binding brakes as the piston chamber would never completely depressurize. Anyway - I have three spare brake master cylinders - non of which fit my MKIII Spitfire without fouling the corner of the wiper motor - after market replacements all seem to come with a huge plastic reservoir. - They won't therefore seat flat on the bulk head. I see no quick way of fabricating a modification to the Wiper Motor mountings without radically altering the alignment of the activating mechanism. However, I do have a large bore clutch master cylinder ... although the reservoir is smaller than the standard BMC ( it therefore fits !! ) am I legal to use this - or will such a set up also fail an MOT ??
  13. Is it time those of us that rack up some high mileages in our Classic Cars begin making voluntary Carbon Offset payments? Very roughly a medium sized petrol car contributes about 0.5 tonnes of Carbon Dioxide to the atmosphere every 1000 miles we drive - at current rates of offset that equates to about £7.50 - £10 ... or very approximately 1 pence / mile. Given the other costs we happily incur indulging our driving pleasures, fuel, oil, insurance, parts, labour, polish even ... this doesn't seem too onerous a "tax" ! What do forum members think? Given the recently announced "Climate Emergency" should we begin to voluntarily make payments ( before they are imposed upon us ) ... or just carry on regardless? There are several schemes already running should you have a urgent need to salve your conscience - but I wonder whether it would be fun to pair with a UK charity to contribute towards our own initiative. Canlet Forest Park anyone? Everyones six penno'thworth welcome. Nuala
  14. Greta

    JJT

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