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About Greta

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  1. £3k - for a restorable rarity! - Perhaps SWF could recreate the Tiny Lewis Rally Car!
  2. Hi Nick - pm me your address I think I can find a broken one .... ( why do I keep broken parts ! )
  3. Surely your priority now is to build a proper garage / workshop... those h'ghlan' timorous wee mieces will be looking to get out o' the fret... & you know that poly-tunnels dinna cut the mustard!....just hide it behind a garden wall
  4. Thanks guys all useful suggestions & ideas - I achieved a simple temporary improvement by fitting lighter return springs & lubing the cable. Already a big improvement until I can get to my local bike shop.
  5. Throttle Cable - Bulk Head After a carb rebuild I’m slowed up with my throttle cable graunching & binding at the point where the sheath pulls through the bulkhead. I suspect the problem is the sheath is nipping the inner cable at the point where I was having difficulty stopping the flange from pulling through as the cable tightened. So two questions - recommendations for best throttle cable & how do I stop the problem happening again! A more secure cable end bracket at the bulkhead seems to be required but my online search terms don’t seem to be finding what I need Type in pho
  6. Dust - Dark Matter ... your window to another world! ....When you find the door take me with you.
  7. This was cheap on ebay: 3 1/2" x 1 1/2" ... & seems to fit the Bus... so I'll see if I can hide it in a Regulator ( Pete !? )
  8. As Nick said ... my childhood phenomic & dyslexia problems seem to be returning ... I blame them trying to teach me the eta alphabet & missing a years schooling at a crucial age. I'm really not sure whether the 13mm circlip I've ordered is adequate for the job.. if you've something imperial a tad smaller ( or the correct part ) it would still be appreciated. Any links to the smaller fuse box you found? And if anyone has an old knackered regulator box I can tear down & play with for a dummy run please let me know> Still not sure whether I can take a live
  9. Today's numpty Questions... As My High Torque Starter motor has it's own solenoid - is there anything to stop me using the lower post on the original solenoid as a Buzz Post? Obviously it will need a live feed from either the top post or directly from the battery. Trying to keep the wiring looking period - I want to avoid fitting visibly modern buzz bars & led fuse boxes etc ... but the top post on the solenoid is looking like a Christmas Tree. I'm needing to add lots of cables as I attempt to fit period relays for main beam & auxiliary lights. BTW anyone know of matching 7" &
  10. Greta

    Code Red !

    Thanks to Roger's helpful hints via pm problem finally traced to a poorly secured lead from Alternator to Starter motor - hiding beneath the rubber boot at the high torque SM I found a twisted & inadequately seated terminal ...problem quickly sorted once discovered - now a have 13.8v reading on multimeter on tickover . Thanks again to all here that provide encouragement & advice.
  11. Greta

    Code Red !

    Ignition Red ! Somewhere in the process of chasing a misfire I've mucked up ! After too many attempts at resetting points & timing to dial out a high rev misfire - I switched back to a former Lumenition Electronic ignition set up - immediately things felt crisper & starting easier... finally satisfied I put the GT6 to bed....a couple of days later I returned to discover I'd inadvertently left the ignition turned on. No matter she started ok ... but hey ho now the ignition warning light wouldn't extinguish except when driven at 2k+ rpm Since then I've checked, changed & ti
  12. Problem solved - twice. Fairly certain the points gap and perhaps setting them when the heel was just off the crown was the original cause ... although temptation had me fiddling with the timing by twiddling the dizzy and setting by ear ! - thanks. Got everything set up and ran great for c120 miles or so - only to reoccur... doh. So despite TRE saying they couldn't get my Lumination to work I thought I would try - I had no trouble reinstating it ( suggests they just wanted to sell me their points set etc ) and now everything seems much crisper and easier to start. - Will keep you all post
  13. The problem with your calculations are that it assumes static state - in a dynamic - running in exercise - I'm fairly convident ( even with my rudimentary engineering skills that the capacity of each cylinder will decline in a direct ratio to the number of no isolating attendees - of course if a governor ( as in Tier three is applied - engine capacity will eith decline less quickly or the corollary equation can be applied and an assumed engine mis management - following the tipsy curve will result in a spluttering misfire!
  14. Hi Phil - Glad to see you've requisitioned the kitchen scullery since your return. Re above Mike Papworth fitted a 2nd o/d inhibitor switch for me on my MKII Spitfire to give o/d on 2nd -- this really helps fill a gap between 2nd & 3rd where the little 1147 was either screaming it's self silly on long inclines or would bog down & fail to pull in 3rd. I retained the column switch and get a real buzz choreographing the finger flicks changing up from o/d2 to std3. I assume TT want to retain original appearance - but the above mod is under the tunnel & a really sweat little tool in mo
  15. I think The Golden Spanner award goes to Nick. 0.020" if set not quite on the crest of the lobe can easily be 0.025"+ - More accurate setting ... ( must refit one of those solenoids with a button ) with a smaller gap does indeed now allow it to rev to 5000. although it's much much better it still has difficulty holding 5000 rpm .... Dropping back periodically. so now that's been understood perhaps I'll start again & try to refit my luminition ignition kit that TRE disconnected. See if that will facilitate good ignition at even higher revs .....To be continued. Thank
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