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Greta

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About Greta

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  1. If you've the feel to tip toe a car on the edge of adhesion through a chicane - you can probably pick up skiing quiet quickly..its all about balance - weighting & unweighting ... the trick is to lean out and down, to compress and then un weight the ski, ...to drive the turn with your big toe and shin ... modern short waisted skis make turning so much easier than it used to be .... it's great fun and a lunch time schnapps helps ease the afternoon aches & pains... Go for it!
  2. Well I've striped and cleaned the black sludge out of the mech fuel pump & reassembled and apart from a slight leak from the top cap bolt the car is again running on the mechanical pump... ... but it worries me about the sludge - is this going to quickly re accumulate? and is it a result of the fuel hoses degrading due to Ethanol??
  3. 10CR - what a great event! Spitfire MKIV 1500 ran very well apart from a failure to the mechanical fuel pump... could that be that the E5 Ethanol ate the diaphragm. Many thanks to Matt for lending me a Facet Pump and all who helped fettle the fix. Also need a refurb to the n/s half shaft UJ & wheel bearings that were deemed ok at recent MOT ( well c 4k miles ago! ) I'm just about to get spannering to strip the pumps and inspect. ... Any advice about replacement mechanical / electrical fuel pumps much appreciated. eg. reliability of replacement mech. pumps ref ethanol, what psi on an electrical, need for pressure regulator, cylindrical vs cube, .. suppliers of 1/4 or 6mm ??? fuel hose.... and best place to get good wheel bearings and UJ's ... ... the the car's going to the back of the garage while the others get some TLC.
  4. Awhh shame ... is Vicky's Spitfire not on the road? You could always aim to do Monte Classique in early February! ...plenty mountain passes in the south of France - and Geoffrey would be reliving part of TR Rallying History.
  5. https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/spitfire-and-gt6-forum.8/engaging-overdrive-in-second-gear.1310556/ This thread seems to cover the topic ... but I'd still appreciate contact with any that have experience of making it work in practice - so I can discuss the pros & cons , do's & don'ts - and any stylish switches / mounts / warning lights
  6. feel I'm chickening out by taking my MKIV Spitfire on 10CR and not my MKII. Back in the day the Rallying Spitfires did The Alpine and Monte etc and I'm chickening out of taking the Alpine passes in my 1147cc. Problem is - she has a fast road cam ( comes in at c. 3200rpm ) and a 3:89 Diff - therefore ... great for cruising the long miles to the Alps - but not so good for pulling up the hills - she struggles to pull 3rd as the revs drop... The thought of grinding and buzzing away from lacet to lacet in 2nd doesn't really appeal. Logically a gear in the long gap between 2nd & 3rd seems the obvious answer. The simplest solution I've heard seems to be just to completely bypass the inhibitor switch by joining both wires ... but this solves one problem and creates two ... a) risk of trashing o/d by reversing with o/d engaged & b) would require me to simultaneously drop O/D as I changed up from O/D 2nd to 3rd. Now I'm not that technical - it takes Janet & John type explanations before I even begin to comprehend many issues ... but I guess what I'm asking is: can anyone provide a step by step guide to adding O/D 2nd to to my options? Better still, point me in the direction of an affordable workshop experienced in achieving this mod without sacrificing any long-term reliability. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-158072UR - could the replacement actuator be adapted to work on 2nd too? Has anyone done this? An old post on Triumph Experience suggests: "My calculations show the 2-over would be a very middle position between 2 and 3. Second is 2.16 2-Over I think would be 2.16 x 0.797 = 1.72, and Third is 1.39 " ... so I think I've talked myself through the theory and that by machining a correctly shaped actuator - understand perhaps how it can be achieved ... I just really need someone with the engineering competence, experience and workshop facilities to make it happen ... anyone? ( PS ... is there no way on here that one can edit ones original post? )
  7. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-158072UR - could the replacement actuator be adapted to work on 2nd too? Has anyone done this?
  8. I feel I'm chickening out by taking my MKIV Spitfire on 10CR and not my MKII. Back in the day the Rallying Spitfires did The Alpine and Monte etc and I'm chickening out of taking the Alpine passes in my 1147cc. Problem is - she has a fast road cam ( comes in at c. 3200rpm ) and a 3:89 Diff - therefore ... great for cruising the long miles to the Alps - but not so good for pulling up the hills - she struggles to pull 3rd as the revs drop... The thought of grinding and buzzing away from lacet to lacet in 2nd doesn't really appeal. Logically a gear in the long gap between 2nd & 3rd seems the obvious answer. The simplest solution I've heard seems to be just to completely bypass the inhibitor switch by joining both wires ... but this solves one problem and creates two ... a) risk of trashing o/d by reversing with o/d engaged & b) would require me to simultaneously drop O/D as I changed up from O/D 2nd to 3rd. Now I'm not that technical - it takes Janet & John type explanations before I even begin to comprehend many issues ... but I guess what I'm asking is: can anyone provide a step by step guide to adding O/D 2nd to to my options? Better still, point me in the direction of an affordable workshop experienced in achieving this mod without sacrificing any long-term reliability.
  9. Ok - sorted - by placing two spanners side by side @ 10 to 4 I finally got it shifted ... now to all you ol' grease monkeys this is probably simple stuff - but to an engineering numpty like me - this appliance of the old grey matter is something of a mini triumph !
  10. On my MKII Spitfire I'm trying to remove the Oil Pressure Sender so I can stack it with an adaptor to take a mechanical oil pressure gauge take off. The previous fitter has over tightened it and I'm stuck. Its an awkward fit - I've removed engine side panel & oil filter, but spanners still seem to foul dizzy mount, & fuel pump. Short of hacksawing off the sender part and banging on a socket I'm stuck - It seems to be a 13mm collar but approaching at the angles possible I'm rounding off the shoulders. Am I missing something? - opposite threads? - has the wrong size sender been fitted? Is there a spanner with a flexy open end to angle the shaft slightly so I can hit the bloody thing. If you've been here and remember what you did - please let me know.
  11. Is this the first "up the tube" for team torpedo this time around - what other missile will they be choosing next?
  12. Great thanks John - seems like I should allow 3mm for every 90 degree bend. As I'm mounting the clock bracket in front of the navigator on a new full width dash but also trying to keep the taller front facia of the box proud of the dash top - yet keep the whole unit slim enough not to intrude the cabin ( map boards etc etc ) ... and I don't currently have enough scrap sheet to make a MKII - I'd like to try to get it right from the off. And btw - isn't it great that all such things have already been worked out by some one.
  13. Advice Please I want to make a small box section with Magnetic feet on which to mount my analogue Stopwatches so the unit is fixable and removable to/from my rally dash. On paper - its fairly simple to measure the sequence of rectangular sections that I'll progressively fold - however in making a thick cardboard mock-up it seems that I need to account for a "x" measurement that will disappear into the radius of each fold! Does anyone have experience on how much should be allowed for each fold. I'll be using 1-2mm sheet steel to make my box. ( I'm not bothering to close the ends as this will allow spanner access to tighten nuts etc. Thanks
  14. Well ! - I'm glad that stirred up a hornets nest of opinions... I believe that the science of Global Warming / Climate Change is now irrefutable - it is just a matter of both personal opinion & collective action what our future holds. We either carry on regardless or begin to modify our behaviour. I'm not wanting to spoil anyone's fun - just prompting all to consider what they / we can or should do? I hear those that are sceptical about the efficacy of Carbon Offset schemes but have gained a little insight with the help of our own UK Woodlands Trust ... charity begins at home! Your calculations look pretty robust – just check 1,000 = £3.75 so 1 mile = 0.375p so if you want to round to your generous figure of 1p/mile that’s fine. 0.25 tonnes of Carbon per 1000 miles driven – then ……. 1 tonne CO2 = 4000 miles 1 tonne CO2 = £15 0.25 tonnes = £3.75 1000 miles = £3.75 1 mile = 0.375p On their authority an average car generates about 1 tonne of CO2 every 1000 miles - at these rates of Carbon Offset - I'm sure we can all consider making donations towards planting & conserving UK Woodlands. I hope to be able to develop a scheme by which we can together begin to make a difference. If anyone else is interested in helping me further this initiative please do get in touch.
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