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DeTRacted

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  1. Not a video John but try this: http://www.tap-die.com/contents/en-uk/d296_Tip_Remove_Broken_Tap_Drill_Reamer_Tap_and_Die_Co.html
  2. Spark erosion. Standard technique in ferrous materials. For removing a broken tap in non-ferrous metals an Alum solution is the easy method. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCADI0YSt8M
  3. That link seems to work fine for me John and I have both signed in and posted PMs over the weekend. Looks as though the problem may be at your end. Perhaps your device is running something incompatible with the new site - virus checker perhaps or something similar ?
  4. DeTRacted

    Messages of support fro Darren TR5tar

    Wow - just wow. If that isn't defamation of character then I don't know what is. A serious error of judgement by the BoD which could cost the TRR dearly. Probably best not reprinted here. Basically they have stated just their own side of the debacle naming names and making accusations and without addressing the legitimate concerns which have been raised about the unfairness of the process. Obviously this was sent to print before the recent agreement on reinstatement pending independent review so has been overtaken by events - but it means that those members of the club who do not read the forums will get a very one-sided picture.
  5. DeTRacted

    Messages of support fro Darren TR5tar

    If you want to get rid of the 'banned' thing just delete the tr-register cookie from your browser, though it will come back if you try to log in again. You can see the forums but it looks like no-one has been able to post anything for a couple of hours.
  6. DeTRacted

    Soldering Stations

    Phil, if you want the best regardless of cost go for Weller as used professionally. You will always be able to get spare tips and elements for those. Nothing less than 50 watt unless you are only going to do the finest work on PCBs. Anything else with significant thermal mass needs a bit of grunt. If you are dealing with leaded solder as well as lead-free you might find variable temperature to be useful. Cheaper offerings will work fine for light occasional use but don't expect spare tips to be readily available, so buy tips as well if going for one of those. (John- a soldering station is basically just an iron with a base to stand it on, with a tip-cleanining pad.. Usually the tip temperature can be regulated and different tips fitted for fine or coarse work. Sometimes there is facility for de-soldering too.)
  7. DeTRacted

    Messages of support fro Darren TR5tar

    I really hate petty politics like this and do agree that it stems from trying to run the thing primarily as a business rather than as the club it should be. Unfortunately it seems the need to be a limited company, to protect the members, encourages that kind of thing by attracting the power junkies - and as others have said the TRR is far from alone in that. If they do get that EGM I will be there if possible. RobH
  8. DeTRacted

    Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    I'm not sure whether you are still discussing RS232 cables or not - but just in case you are, when connecting two devices directly together you usually need a 'null modem' cable in which the Rx and Tx lines are crossed. The reason for that is that you need Tx on one device to talk to Rx on the other. However a plain RS232 cable is not connected like that because there was supposed to be a Modem (modulator-demodulator) in the way which provided that cross-connection. Hence the name null modem- because there is no modem in the circuit. Both types of cables and connectors look the same and its easy to get confused. Rob
  9. No John - earthing of a magnetic screen isn't necessary. What is happening is that a varying field induces currents (eddy current) in the metal and these currents act as small electro-magnets to effectively cancel out that applied field for anything within the screen. It all happens within the thickness of the metal.
  10. Aluminium can help for higher-frequency fields if it is thick enough and forms a complete Faraday shield John, but this is a low-frequency thing and here you really need a 'magnetic' material. Mu-metal is a pretty expensive option but is about the best. µ is the permeability factor and this stuff has a very high figure - hence the name. It has been used for decades in high-quality electronics and telecoms applications as your link explains but its really overkill for things like this. It's possible a bit of steel conduit tube around the body of the sensor would do the trick, or even a flat steel plate between it and the motor though that wouldn't do much for the efficiency of the cooling fan.
  11. Just a thought - its possible the interference from the fan motor may not be electrical - it could be magnetic in which case suppression capacitors and earthing won’t help. The pickup is very sensitive to rapidly moving magnetic fields and the fan motor has electro-magnets whirling around inside. Screening that may prove difficult. Ideally you would need a soft iron plate between the two, though it might be enough if the sensor body was enclosed in a steel box or tube. (ali won’t work, it has to be ferrous). Rob
  12. DeTRacted

    Electronic flasher relay...?

    To use a mix of bulb types you will certainly need an electronic flasher unit (because the old bi-metallic type needs the correct bulb current to make it work). In theory there is no need to change all the bulbs but you will need to change the hazard flasher unit too. BUT the choice of flasher unit is crucial, particularly with the two-pin variety. These need the bulbs to complete the circuit for the flasher internals and will be sensitive to the load you apply which could affect whether they flash at all or the speed at which they flash. A standard two pin electronic flasher may not be happy with a mainly LED load while an LED type may burn out if you try to drive standard trailer lights too. You might be lucky with a standard unit but only trial and error will tell. You might be able to find an LED unit which can also supply normal bulbs but it would probably be much simpler, if a bit more expensive, to change everything to LED. Make sure you connect the polarity correctly for the flasher units. If the wires have been crossed the bimetallic type won't care but an electronic one will not work.
  13. DeTRacted

    Alternator Excitor voltage

    Is this a Lucas ACR alternator? If its the three-pin connection type the third pin is only an 'exciter' input until the engine fires up. Once the alternator is spinning the field excitation comes from an internal connection to the 'triple' rectifiers and the lamp goes out because the voltage is about the same on each side of it. If yours is still lit with the alternator running there is a fault in the alternator. Connecting the indicator pin to 12v will not help.
  14. DeTRacted

    Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    The sensor waveforms look believable John but the video of the sensor output shows occasional tall spikes which look random and are difficult to explain - was the sensor brushing the wheel sometimes or perhaps it's electrical pick-up from somewhere? Could be computer-generated noise I suppose. Either way they aren't on the cranking waveform so it shouldn't stop the unit working. The random output is very strange. If the EDIS just wasn't able to trigger on the sensor waveform you would expect a flat line. Rob
  15. DeTRacted

    Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    Yes it looks like the sensor is probably OK John. The peaks may well be ten times as large as your meter says. Rob
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