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  1. I was considering going with the Suzuki Hayabusa throttle bodies though they need an adapter to fit the Triumph Spitfire (photo). Was working with a friend several years ago on machining the adapter from aluminum as a single piece. Got the exterior machined but my friend and the machinist got cross-ways on machining the tapered interior and work stopped (photo). I may pick this up again as part of rebuilding a 1500 engine I have laying around. If/when I start this up again I'll be engaging with this forum for consultation and/or lessons learned (i.e. don't try this it didn't work out). Kurt
  2. I have gotten my Spitfire 1300 tuned pretty well. It is tuned a little rich but it is best to be a little rich vs lean. Attached are my ignition advance and VE tables. I used Lambda vs. AFR for the air/fuel ratio and have included that table as well. Lambda is fuel independent so using 10% ethanol with a stoichiometric ratio of 14.1 vs. pure gasoline, 14.7, will not impact this table. I've also included my current tune file. The car runs well in all conditions, doesn't bog down at lower RPM and high load nor run out of power up to full RPM. I've got some more tuning to do to lean it out a bit and will be engaging both the AutoTune and Adaptive Idle features to fine tune the performance and fuel economy. Thank you for all your help. Without your guidance I'm not sure I would have gotten this completed so quickly. CurrentTune.msq
  3. Thanks Nick, Yes, my MS does incorporate the AFR table and I've been using it that way since the start. Love both the dyno and friend ride along ideas. I've got the friend and can find a dyno. By reading around I've found that the 10% ethanol fuel here is the US has a stoichiometric ratio of 14.1 vs. 14.7 so will change that. I've also gotten some timing vs. RPM for the Spitfire that will help me get the timing closer. Finally I've seen that tuning my using the Lambda value is pretty effective. Have to read more on this but this seems like a sound approach. Thanks to your guidance I'm getting closer to having the car running OK using my "Parking Lot" method. Then will go on to the ride along friend technique. Finally I'll get it right fine tuned using the Lambda and/or dyno. Will update as I made progress. Kurt
  4. Nick, Great insight. Indeed I had adjacent cells that were adding fuel and taking it away, hence the oscillation. I found the cause of my backfiring to be too lean a mixture. To track this down I fixed the timing at 10 BTDC than ran the engine up and watched the VE/AFR cells. As soon as it approached the lean cells it started backfiring. Decreased the AFR and/or increased the VE till backfiring went away. Did this with no load and many load conditions (a very large open parking lot). Once I got the backfiring done I worked a bit on the timing. I"m very close to having it running well, but am pretty sure I'll be a on the rich side. Any ideas on a plan on how to tune in the AFR table more precisely so that I can let auto tune get the VE table aligned? Also in the US they put up to 10% ethanol in the fuel which lowers the stoichiometric ratio down from 14.7 to around 14. However it will vary tank to tank so I probably want to keep it a little rich in case I get a tank of lower % ethanol which will run leaner. Making great progress thanks to you'all's guidance. Kurt
  5. Nick, I tried to included the audio file and the data logging file (by changing the file extension name from .msl to .jpg), but it didn't work, these type files will not post. Will be working on it more today. Any input or advice is appreciated. Kurt
  6. Nick and Fast Driver, - I put in the broadband O2 Sensor and Controller. Used a 14Point7 Spartan 2 with Bosch O2. - Also loaded Nick's Vitesse Spark Table reduced by about 9 degrees as it goes way over what Triumph recommends as 30-32 Max BTDC. - Also moved my EDIS sensor from 8 teeth (80 degrees) to 9 teeth (90 degrees) and took out the correction I had in the software. Pulled the SAW wire and confirmed 10 degrees BTDC is the "Limp In" mode. Also confirmed several fixed timing angles with my strobe timing light to confirm all is synched up. - I took it out for a drive and it was backfiring and bucking a lot. Even at 2,000-3,000 RPM at 40 MPH the engine would oscillate (sp?) between 2K and 3K with a fixed throttle position. I'm wondering if I'm running so rich that the wasted spark in the EDIS is lighting off in the exhaust manifold, is that even possible?? - I let AutoTune work for a while at idle and it stalled a couple of times. Then took it out for a drive with AutoTune and backfiring/oscillations were reduced but not yet eliminated. - Have attached the tables, and the .msq. The data log file won't upload. - Will send and the audio of it running with a steady accelerator at 3,000 RPM in neutral and the engine oscillating tomorrow. Any advice on how to get the oscillation/backfire eliminated would be appreciated. Kurt CurrentTune.msq
  7. NIck, I actually had found your Vitesse timing table earlier and used it to load my table. However, my max advance is 30 and idle is 6 BTDC so I backed most of your numbers down by 9 degrees and limited it to 30 degrees max. Then I got tuning on it and moved pretty far away from your table so I'll move back closer to your values offset by 9 degrees. Yes, I'll be rev limiting this 1300 at 8500. It will take 9,000 but I'm not gonna push it. Won't be racing it but it jumps up to 6,000 very quickly. The 1st time I went over 7,000 the tach got stuck so I had to flick it with my finger to get the dial to return. Has probably not been that high very often. I'm starting it up today with broadband and will send revised tables if I make significant progress today. Thanks for the links and info and slower burning at lower revs. Great knowledge. Kurt
  8. NIck, Thanks, your timing table is too far advanced for my Spit to run on, backfires through the intake. Maybe because my cam is not symmetrical? Or....... I have found that my EDIS 36 tooth pickup wheel was placed on tooth 8 vs. tooth 9. So, if I read this correctly I should have 10 degrees more retarded (after TDC) than I think I do. This will put my limp in mode to TDC vs. 10 BTDC, correct? I've found the SAW wire on the relay board Pin11 (S5) and will pull it to confirm. So to correct for this I put a -7.5 timing offset and the MS table timing agrees with the strobe timing light (at least at idle and when I put in fixed timing degrees). If this an OK work around or do I need to move the sensor to tooth 9. I'm trying to avoid moving it as e welded the bracket the timing cover. Kurt
  9. Thanks, I'll put in less at low revs and lower loads. The Triumph manual and Competition guides are very clear that over 30-32 degrees of advance, while good for short term racing, is going to take a lot of life out of the engine. A very knowledgeable local Triumph mechanic says over 30-32 degrees advanced is likely to blow the head gasket. In fact he thinks that is what did mine in but I was only at 27 degrees. I've got the broadband O2 sensor and Spartan 2 Lamda Controller. Will fire it up tomorrow and back the lower rev timing down. Anything else you see in the maps that needs attention? Thank you so much for your insight, saving me a ton of trial and error.
  10. Attached are my latest tunes table and Tuner Studio file all with Narrowband O2 sensor. Will put broadband in tomorrow. Comments, guidance? Kurt CurrentTune August 1, 2017 (Narrowband O2).msq
  11. Thank you for all the input. Yes, it is already running but needs more improved timing. Yes, the base timing is set and confirmed with strobe timing light that it agrees with MS Timing Table. When it was running earlier it was way too rich but it ran OK. Because this was a brand new motor I took about 500 miles to break it in then took the 1st road trip when the head gasket blew the fire ring into the cylinder and beat up cylinder #4 (photos) I have already loaded in the correct throttle body injector data and corrected for the regulated fuel pressure I'm running. Data and pressure correction were pretty easy to get as it is a Bosch injector in the throttle body.I will play with the required fuel to get it running leaner or richer. This was not properly done earlier and was way off so it ran but only made about 15mph and loaded the pistons with carbon. When the head gasket blew I originally thought the timing was the culprit but 27 degrees BTDC @ 3500 RPM and 75 mph should not have gotten it too hot. (I'm running a 3.27:1 GT6 differential and put in a T5 5 speed transmission from a Camaro with about 0.76 over drive in 5th gear. Car pulled great at 75 mph without much strain.The head gasket and subsequent piston failure appears have been caused by some pitting in the head right across where the water jacket has it's closet approach to #4. I have since filled this so it won't fail there again!Believe water got behind the fire ring, turned to steam, and blew the fire ring into the piston (photos). It was a AE +.030" piston which are no longer made. Not being able to get a new AE I bought 4 new County pistons to keep the set balanced. Now have 3 AE +.030 pistons on the shelf.I loaded in a timing map from someone's 1300 from the sideways forum (attached)The map appeared to be skewed by at least +9 degrees as idle was at 16 degrees but shop manual recommends 6 BTDC. My current map is attached. The car idles fine and does OK on hard acceleration. I had to back off timing at 30-40mph cruising as it lightly backfired into the intake and then of course oscillated till it caught it's breath again. I believe I have to get the timing pretty good for autoune to work, even with the broadband O2. I had already purchased with wideband before the 1st 90 mile road trip where the head gasket failed on the way home. So I'll install it. Am I correct in getting the timing set correctly then letting Auto Tune work once I install the broadband O2 sensor?
  12. Thank you for creating a new thread for me. I'm using MegaSquirt MS/2Extra release 3.3.1 20131206 18:45GMT TunerStudio MSv3.0.22 I know there is a later firmware update and have ordered a RS232-USB interface that will allow me to install this. My current interface works fine but for some reason will not allow the firmware update to complete. I've just repaired a failed head gasket and cracked piston in my 1300 which put water in the oil and oil in the water. So I want to put about 500 miles on the car to clean out all the residue in the system before swapping my narrowband for the broadband O2 sensor. What I'm looking for is just some "Close" enough timing, VE, AFR tables to get the car running good enough to put 500 miles on it.
  13. I am new to this forum so please excuse me in advance if the information I'm asking for was posted earlier. Have just gotten MegaSquirt working on a newly rebuilt 1300 in a Triumph Spitfire and am looking for Ignition, AFR, VE tables and any other useful settings to get me off to a good start on tuning it. Here are the engine specifics: 9:1 Compression 22/70/62/28 Piper HR270/2 "Fast Road" Cam - Inlet lift = 0.415", Exhaust Lift = 0.400" Throttle Body from a Chrysler 2.5 liter (will convert to multiport later) 2 to 2 to 4 exhaust manifold EDIS 4 Ignition with 36 Tooth Wheel on the Crank Roller Rockers Narrow Band O2 (will install wideband 14Point2 Spartan 2 as soon as I get the car running) Thank you for any tunes, tables, or insight you can provide to get me! Kurt, Texas USA