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oldtuckunder

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About oldtuckunder

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  1. Cam follower failure

    If they are hardened and grey, don't forget to polish before fitting! Alan
  2. Latest little project

    Boot floors, now Inner Wing Supports, Full body shells next year?
  3. TR6, DCOE, Cannon manifold and balance tube

    May be try getting a bunch of the rubber bungs they use in wine making jars, and play blocking off combinations, if its one or two leaking, you should see a dramatic drop, otherwise just a small one.
  4. Spitfire 1500 Flywheel Weight

    Yep original flywheel (much lightened) and original bolts, see attached, NB Clutch Cover numbers are of course recent. Alan
  5. TR6, DCOE, Cannon manifold and balance tube

    Does sound like air leak, but also enough fuel, what are the AFR's like with throttle stops fully unwound, i.e. if very lean probable air leak on inlet past carbs, if about right tends to indicate throttle plates not closing enough. NB. Re effect of balance tube, at idle and up to around 1500rpm, my Vitesse will happily run on one carb, i.e. one with throttle plate fully shut and no fuel supply. In this instance the AFR's look fine on both front and rear cylinders (I run twin sensors so can see this) i.e. a balance tube can supply enough, and with 3 carbs, it could be anyone of them that could be holding the idle high. I think I made a comment on another thread recently that next time I'm setting up the carbs I'm going to try blocking the balance tube, just to ensure that cross talk via the balance tube isn't affecting idle mixture settings. re idle RPM, the guy that runs the RR I use, who has a lot of experience with classic racing engines, always advises that he hates to see flat tappet, push rod engines idling at less than 1K. Alan
  6. Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    Had the DTi near the edge but on the line of the gudgeon pin. It is a tiny difference .0008-.001 in lift in two directions. Of course the question that that question raises is that when I was measuring with a stop down the bore by 1" where did I have the stop? probably off to one side, so may have been a bit of tilt involved when I came up against the hard stop, which may account for the 1deg difference between measuring with DTi and Stop. Oh well interesting stuff, but I think I will consign to the not important now, filing tray. Alan
  7. Spitfire 1500 Flywheel Weight

    I think Roger has a very good balancing company on his door step (the people I use) They do balance crank with pulley, flywheel, clutch cover and plate. Just remember to permanently mark exact orientation of clutch cover to flywheel. My factory clutch cover bolts are actually forged with unique numbers on each bolt, and the flywheel is stamped so that even the bolts go back in the right places. Bet not many people knew the factory did that!
  8. Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    Ok I'll use my stop marked TDC which just happens to match with the pulley mark and pointer, just found it interesting that using a Dial produced a different result. Alan
  9. Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    OK WHERE IS TOP DEAD CENTRE "Do I Care" Finally found some time to go out and start playing with mounting the Trigger Wheel, and spurred on by Nick's comment thought we would aim for smack on TDC. But where is TDC, I have always known before but now I have a degree or two of doubt (get the pun?) In the past I have always used a degree wheel and a fixed piston stop about 1" down the bore. Easy wind one way mark the degree wheel, wind the other way mark the wheel, and smack bang between the two is TDC, which on my Vitesse has always lined up with the 0 deg mark on the pulley, with the zero degree mark in line with the pointer on the cover. Magic! Anyway as I have the head off at the moment, I thought I'd do a double check with my dial gauge. Its a good one measuring to .0001 so I turn the crank until the needle stops and find that this actually occurs at 1 deg BTDC, recheck multiple times always 1 BTDC. Wind the crank about 60 past TDC and then back again and am surprised to see the needle flick and stop .001 higher. Repeat several times pushing probe up in correct direction taking well past TDC and then winding back and always get an extra .0008 to .001 extra lift going backwards. And what's really strange is that high point is actually at 2 deg BTDC (not 2 before going backwards but actually where 2 BTDC would be going the right way. Ok I know there has to be a minuscule dwell point right at the top of the stroke where the piston is neither rising or falling, but I'm really confused why highest lift in correct rotation is actually hit 1 BTDC (as taken from degree wheel), and why there should be an extra thou of lift going backwards, and why it occurs at 1 deg offset. OK I know 1 deg in ignition timing is going to make very little difference, but............ Alan
  10. Spitfire 1500 Flywheel Weight

    I know the Vitesse/GT6 standard one is a fair bit lighter than the saloon and TR6 one. Peter Cox had my Vitesse flywheel machined down to 6Kg from I think about 9Kg, but to look at it its hard to see from where. For a road car and a 4 cyl, you maybe don't want to go too light, the flywheel does store energy, so through gear changes it can help preserve momentum, not so important if you have a lot of torque, but whilst a light flywheel helps the engine spin up quicker, it also spins down quicker. With a light flywheel lazy gear changes aren't as easy, so no lift, dip the clutch, reach over and slowly pull the lever, whilst your doing this the engine revs are dropping fast. Alan
  11. Modern cars and POs

    Same thing happened with our Freelander TD4, it was the glow plugs. If its a bit smokier than usual for first few secs on cold start up its also a good clue to glow plugs. Also pondered about doing it, but thought hell if I can get spark plugs out of a V12 jag, then what's 4 glow plugs. Actually fairly easy, got engine warm, poured a tiny bit of plusgas around the base, got a good socket and a long bar, just snicked them a fraction tighter, and then gave a good steady heave anticlockwise, don't piss about, they should just go with a crack, which like the jag sounds frighteningly expensive. Then its just like changing plugs.
  12. Hello from sunny Suffolk

    A few Badger/hedgehog bits. My partner had a an old Collie that a vendetta against hedgehogs and unfortunately killed many when we lived close to the Cotswold Hills, was never sure how he did it, but it only took him moments to do. When we moved close to the Malvern Hills there were no signs of Hedgehogs at all, and locals said it was because there was a large population of Badgers (which there was) That population has declined over the last 10 years (nothing to do with the Cull or any type of hunting) but over the last 5 years the Hedgehog population has made a dramatic increase. Now have to make sure that shed and stable doors are shut in the evening so that they don't wander in, get shut in the next day, and then have a hard time locked up for days. Fortunately no deaths yet, but some that have taken a few days of intense care to get healthy again.
  13. Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    Hi Roger OK sounds good, even I think I can get within 10 deg as a start point. Regarding in and out, looking at the slots on the mounting brackets they seem designed to slide the sensor back and forth in a horizontal plane to the teeth, but looks like I also need to create a mounting that moves the sensor in/out in vertical plane to get the gap right between teeth and sensor. Alan
  14. Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    OK my megajolt kit has arrived, and very comprehensive too, enough reels of wire in there to sort the blackpool tower, they obviously don't want any complaints that the wires aren't long enough, wow I didn't realise how much those coil packs weigh, maybe time to move the battery to the boot so I have somewhere to mount it, and balance the extra weight out a bit! OK all I'm going to do first off is get the trigger wheel and crank sensor mounted whilst I have the radiator out, then I'll get the engine back and running on conventional distributor, and then wire in the megajolt. Very tight between pulley and radiator so want to get this right! So my conundrum, the obvious way is to drill centre of trigger wheel for Crank Shaft Bolt, get the trigger wheel in position and crank sensor mounted, then just drill a small slot in the trigger wheel (for fine adjustment), tap the boss that is normally held by a locating pin and the crank shaft bolt, use a small bolt to lock the trigger wheel in place, then tighten the big bolt 100ftlb? But what happens if I need to move the trigger wheel? To do that then means undoing that crank shaft bolt, which means radiator out (plus a whole bunch of other gubbins) to get a long enough bar on it. So was wondering instead of using the crank shaft bolt to hold the trigger wheel on, if I bored the centre of the trigger wheel to just clear the head of the crank shaft bolt, and secured the trigger wheel to the small boss with three or four set screws, then is I have slotted the trigger wheel holes all I have to do is loosen the the set screws to adjust. I don't think only having the trigger wheel secured with 3 or set screws should be a problem should it, rotating at 6.5k its only doing what the original metal fan was doing held on by four bolts. Thoughts? Alan
  15. Trigger Wheel Mounting Vitesse

    OK my megajolt kit has arrived, and very comprehensive too, enough reels of wire in there to sort the blackpool tower, they obviously don't want any complaints that the wires aren't long enough, wow I didn't realise how much those coil packs weigh, maybe time to move the battery to the boot so I have somewhere to mount it, and balance the extra weight out a bit! OK all I'm going to do first off is get the trigger wheel and crank sensor mounted whilst I have the radiator out, then I'll get the engine back and running on conventional distributor, and then wire in the megajolt. Very tight between pulley and radiator so want to get this right! So my conundrum, the obvious way is to drill centre of trigger wheel for Crank Shaft Bolt, get the trigger wheel in position and crank sensor mounted, then just drill a small slot in the trigger wheel (for fine adjustment), tap the boss that is normally held by a locating pin and the crank shaft bolt, use a small bolt to lock the trigger wheel in place, then tighten the big bolt 100ftlb? But what happens if I need to move the trigger wheel? To do that then means undoing that crank shaft bolt, which means radiator out (plus a whole bunch of other gubbins) to get a long enough bar on it. So was wondering instead of using the crank shaft bolt to hold the trigger wheel on, if I bored the centre of the trigger wheel to just clear the head of the crank shaft bolt, and secured the trigger wheel to the small boss with three or four set screws, then is I have slotted the trigger wheel holes all I have to do is loosen the the set screws to adjust. I don't think only having the trigger wheel secured with 3 or set screws should be a problem should it, rotating at 6.5k its only doing what the original metal fan was doing held on by four bolts. Thoughts? Alan
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