Jump to content

oldtuckunder

Subscriber!
  • Content count

    1,012
  • Donations

    $25.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About oldtuckunder

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

3,402 profile views
  1. oldtuckunder

    Tr6 efi

    Evans ? Alan
  2. oldtuckunder

    Full race 2.7

    The advice I have followed without regret is that Twin Red TR5 springs are just about optimum, however you should also be led by the advice of who supplies your cam, (unless of course you think they are just trying to up sell you). IF anyone minded brain picking I'd have been thrown off long ago. Triple CD carbs is a Marmite Question, a good start read could be https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/43950-are-triple-carbs-rubbish/page-3?hl= triple strombergs I'd not consider it lowering sights, but maybe rather building an engine for intended use rather than aiming at a number that may deliver the opposite. NB If your thinking of Historic Saloon Racing check the regs first before building the engine. Nothing worse that spending a lot of time and effort only to be told at scrutineers "you can't run". NB. If the regs allow it? EFI would probably be as cheap as triple webbers. Alan
  3. oldtuckunder

    Tr6 efi

    Have you tried a different gauge? Jambed or incorrect PRV? Alan
  4. oldtuckunder

    Full race 2.7

    A few competitors in the Sprint Hill Climb championship have run 2.7 T6's with around that BHP number, but have either run Tripple Webbers or EFI . I suspect because its easier to get the fueling about right, there may not be many people with the expertise to set up a Lucas PI at those limits. I think 2.7 head gaskets can also be wallet lightening, however I suspect from the spec your aiming at you'll have to do what we all have to at times which is tear up the invoices as they arrive. I wouldn't take John's comment as don't do it. We all enjoy an interesting project as it develops. About my only two cents worth would be with a relatively heavy car think about an engine that will produce as much torque as possible in the 3-5.5K band as that's where you will get the most driving benefit, an engine that's producing 200 bhp at 6.5K sounds good, but I think I'd rather have 150 and an engine with way more torque in the mid range. Its also cheaper to engineer as you keep out of the areas where things start stretching and flying apart. NB. +1 for the maxspeeding rods, they happily pull 7K (for brief periods) in my 2ltr. Alan
  5. oldtuckunder

    Capillary temperature gauge

    Well from that I'm not sure John? given that I'd assume 2 meters of cable that's around 0.06 resistance, and given that that chart shows that less than 0.2 covers a range of 70-100 (30)deg, then a 2 meter length of cable = 30 / (0.2/0.06) = 9 deg C. Ok wouldn't throw figures totally out of the ball park, but still a measurable difference. However given my knowledge of electronics and maths is limited, this could all be bollocks Alan
  6. oldtuckunder

    Capillary temperature gauge

    From what I have read the way to go about setting up the electronic (non capillary) type, is to get a couple of senders and bench test them with the gauge and a pan of water that you can bring the temperature up in, and thus find the sender that works well with the gauge. I have also read that its a good idea when doing it out of the car to use a length of wire connecting the sender and the gauge of about the right length & gauge as that in the car between the two. Alan
  7. oldtuckunder

    Vitesse Body Tidying

    Ah see your confusion about 121254, Work shop manual shows slots at bottom, parts diagrams show slots at top. Have no idea which is correct, but at bottom does make adjustment easier and looks right to me.
  8. oldtuckunder

    Vitesse Body Tidying

    Hi Gerald No need to apologise about being in Exeter The slots should go to the bottom. NB when given a brand new factory bonnet (many decades ago) I had a similar problem getting decent alignment (and still isn't perfect today with either of my bonnets) I found I had to extend the slots to get it close (in fact I made a new set of stainless ones so had oodles of adjustment) now I find I can remove and refit or even swap between the bonnets and it drops back just about right (provided I line up the pop marks I made when I had it as I wanted it). Alan
  9. oldtuckunder

    Vauxhall Electric Water Pump

    Well Pressure Washer may not have been a success today, but looks like small 4ltr/min pump that Nick found on ebay for me has the Water Feature finally working! Slightly noisy but don't have it mounted yet and hidden from view (sound waves). Going to leave it running for 24 hours, if it survives that then I reckon it will do the job so worth installing properly. Alan
  10. oldtuckunder

    Help identifying motor capacitor

    Well bit of a bummer new capacitor made zero difference, but at £12 is was a fairly cheap trial and error attempt. So now its either strip the whole machine down so I can get the motor out and maybe see if there is anything obvious (but its a major dismantle job) Leave it until it gets cooler and see if it runs longer again Scrap the bugger. If it wasn't a big diesel burning hot/steam one I'd probably go that route as its going to be many many hours strip/rebuild and still no guarantee that I'd identify the problem. Although I guess if I got the motor/pump lump out and removed the pump, I could bench test the motor although it may only be under load it has a problem. Alan
  11. oldtuckunder

    Item: Binny

    About the same price as a small Mocal rad, but Rimmers (cough) have NOS TR8 ones similar to the RR one https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RKC3288 Alan
  12. oldtuckunder

    Vauxhall Electric Water Pump

    Hi Nick Many thanks, I thought my ebay searching skills were good, but I found none of that range of 12v DC pumps, may be the agricultural thing thew me. Anyway found one that I think will do, so worth a shot. Thanks. Alan
  13. Hi Folks anyone know what the following pump is used for? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-SIGNUM-VECTR-ECT-12VOLT-IN-LINE-ELECTRIC-WATER-PUMP-GM-90448286/232685434544?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 What I really need to know is if this pump is used continuously or just intermittently. Why? Because I'm looking for an inline water pump either 12 or 240V for a small water feature, and I'm struggling to find something. 95% of those advertised are designed to be submersible (which I cant use), I have tried a couple of very cheap Chinese 12v aquarium ones and they both failed after a couple of hours, and I don't want something big and hefty that will drain a swimming pool in a couple of hours (also they are expensive and I'm cheap) so was wondering about trying one of these vauxhall cooling pumps. NB. Did try a bosch copy fuel pump, worked a treat, but too noisy, and not designed for water I don't think. Alan
  14. oldtuckunder

    Spain and classic le man's trip

    Hi Roger Just catching up on your journey, Respect! when you said classic le man's trip I didn't realise! Alan
  15. oldtuckunder

    Spain and classic le man's trip

    If you fancy a busman's holiday then I can recommend IOWA Alan
×