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oldtuckunder

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About oldtuckunder

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  1. AFR Reading

    Ok looks a good position, just asked as Innovate recommend longer bungs if they are fitted closer to the head. And I know that the wideband sensors don't like being powered up heated if they have damp/condensation on them, but looks like you have that all covered. In terms of early failure of wideband sensors, one of the areas of discussion is should you power them up before starting the engine, or only just as you are starting the engine, Innovate recommend only when starting (although contrary advice can be found elsewhere). One thing that is recommended is that you don't power them up and leave them powered up without starting the engine, so for example if you have them wired to come on with ignition switch and you turn the ignition on to test/wire up do other things for any period then it can cause premature failure. I have my sensors wired so that they only come on when I power the fuel pump, i.e. I really am going to start the engine. Alan
  2. AFR Reading

    Where do you have it mounted, and in what orientation to the pipe, also what kind of bung do you have welded into exhaust for it? long short? picture? Alan
  3. IPhones in UK?

    If your heading that way at all, let me know Alan
  4. IPhones in UK?

    On a very quick look, unlocked S/H iphone 7's on ebay here, cheapest £400 most £600-900 As opposed to new & on a 24 month contract from Vodaphone including data and calls Get 10GB of free data 16GB + extra 10GB of 4G data Unlimited minutes Unlimited texts Take your home plan abroad 3-month free trial of Secure Net, then £1 a month thereafter £48 a month £10 upfront So sometimes its a weigh up if its cheaper, to buy a phone outright, then buy a sim only data/call/text monthly plan from a provider, or to just take the bundle including everything from the provider. Alan
  5. IPhones in UK?

    Hi Steve You can either buy phones that are locked to a specific cellular supplier (or their international partners when roaming), if you put in a sim from a different cellular supplier it will be blocked. Or you can buy an open phone that will accept sim's from any cellular operator. You can also buy S/H phones that have been unlocked/jail broken from their original supplier. I use an open phone, so can buy and use a sim from any operator if I wish. When I go to the States I usually pick up a cheap PAYG sim, as my phone has dual sim slots so can decide if I want to use the operator Vodaphone has as a partner in the US or the US sim. If you can pick up an open/unlocked 7s in the States then your wife ought to be able to just pop in the sim from her UK provider and go, at worst if its a different size sim, they will normally supply a new one, and the good providers will also do a data transfer service. If your buying one from Virgin USA just check it isn't locked to their network (if they do that in the States) Alan
  6. End of season compression test

    Here's a couple at random, but you'll get dozens, everyone seems to want to re-invent the same wheel :-) More I think about it £20 odd for the kit is a no brainer!, but I'll let you know if it works!
  7. End of season compression test

    Well John I have to admit no, but on one of the "build your own" videos, one of the guys said the bits cost him $15-$20 and as bits like that always seem way cheaper in the States (not to say readily available from numerous hardware chains) I thought I was fairly safe using approx the same figure. I actually expect if I did buy the bits individually over here it would be more than the cost of the kit. All I did do was pick a UK supplier rather than a hong kong one, as I thought if its rubbish the extra couple of £'s means I can at least return it. To be honest I normally find the Red Box tools OK for the odd usage, but you wouldn't like to use them as a professional tool in use week in week out. Have redone compression tests, engine warm, and throttles open, and almost identical figures to start of season. Actually the reading Dry of 128 is actually with the needle rather close to 130, but as there is no calibration between 125 and 130 and the needle takes up a fair amount of the gap, I may just have put down 130 at the beginning of the year, likewise 135 instead of 132. Likewise wet readings are all a tad over 145 apart from #6 which had reached 150 Cyl 1 2 3 4 5 6 Dry 128 128 128 128 128 132 Wet 145 145 145 145 145 150 So maybe just a tiny tad down on start of year figures (if I wasn't just rounding earlier in the year) Will post leak down test results in a week or so. Alan
  8. End of season compression test

    Looked at a few "how to build your own" Youtube videos, and to be honest when you look at all the simple individual components that go into making one, there isn't much to go wrong, just worked on the theory that if the individual bits would cost £15 a finished kit for just over 20 delivered was a good price (especially as if I bought all the bits they are going to end up having been made in China anyway!). Not even sure you need a compressor, I think you might get away with a bicycle pump, racing bike pressures are 80-120psi and you don't need much volume to fill a cylinder at TDC. When I've done the tests if you want to borrow and try your welcome, as its just going to be another of those ubiquitous red boxes that sits on the shelf 364 or more days a year, as its cheaper many times to buy the tool (if only used once) than it is to do a job badly. Alan
  9. End of season compression test

    I think Steve put his finger on it, I didn't have the throttles open on the latest test and it was Hot, fairly certain I did have them open on the first set (cause I do really know they must be) but from my note engine was Warm and maybe not as Hot as this time, will retest again tomorrow. Alan
  10. End of season compression test

    Following good advice from Steve, leak down tester kit ordered at £20, so when I'm back from holiday in 10 days should be able to find out more "Information is power" Alan
  11. End of season compression test

    Bolloc.s forgot, retest tomorrow, watch this space.
  12. Hi Folks Well this years competition season is over, so thought I'd run a couple of checks on the engine to see if I need a plan of work for the winter. Have also sent an oil sample off to Millers Oils to compare with one from end of last season. Stripped engine down at end of last season, Shells all looked good, but changed them anyway because it could, and also popped in a new set of rings as the engine was stripped. I ran a full compression test when the engine was warm after a couple of hundred miles, when I thought everything should have bedded in and got the following results. Cyl 1 2 3 4 5 6 Dry 130 130 130 130 130 135 Wet 150 150 150 150 150 160 Engine has now done around 1500 miles total, approx 50 competition ones at high rpm's and just got the following with the engine Hot as opposed to probably Warm on the first set Cyl 1 2 3 4 5 6 Dry 115 115 115 115 115 120 Wet 135 135 135 135 135 140 Why #6 is always higher than the rest I have no idea, the chambers were all accurately measured, the rods are identical its just a mystery to me. The engine was built with a CR of 9.25:1 so the original readings of around 130 dry are in the right ball park. So question is does a drop to 115 dry now but with a similar +20 wet indicate bore/ring wear I should be concerned about, or can I for once not pull the engine. Alan
  13. AFR Reading

    I have twin wideband sensors reporting to an Innovate LM2, one in each exhaust branch so that I can log what each carb is doing, in the last month or two one of them has started playing up occasionally. Symptom is that both warm up and report expected AFR's, then at some non specific time afterwards (could be 2 mins could be 20 mins) the front one goes doolaley, it could suddenly report AFR's as rich as 7.5 (more usual) or sometimes an AFR of 22, or just switch to an E8 error state, once gone into weird mode it just stays there, however just flip the power to it so it has to go through its reboot cycle and it comes back up normal. How long it stays like that is as random as the initial failure. I did swap the sensors around on the channels into the Innovate but as the problem moved with it, I'm 99% certain its a sensor that is failing. NB by occasionally playing up, I now mean almost certain to do it within 10 mins or so. Alan
  14. One of the good local classic builders has a Monte Carlo in one of his bays, its been there about a year, he has a skilled ex Aston body guy who comes in a few days a week, and when not working on the main projects gets to work on the Lancia. They are not sure when they will finish or if there will be any original metal left! Its certainly going to be a Grandfathers Axe shell when they have finished! Alan
  15. As a salient warning to how much a determined petrol head can collect I stumbled across the following Auction catalogue for a sale in Tiverton this weekend. I'll see if the new software will allow me to upload the pdf catalogue, if not I'll add a link to the auctioneers site so you can access it, nb Cars are on the last page(s) the previous 10 or so pages are........ Alan PS there are a few car pictures at the auctioneers web site Ottervale Car Auctions 1.10.17.pdf
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