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  1. Yes, I can adjust it. Just seem strange.
  2. I noticed that my cam followers have different depth inside them. Half of them is about 1 mm deeper than the others. What is going on here?
  3. The end cap you see in the picture has to be made (12), other than that I don't know.
  4. Im pretty sure it's from the Mazda's E3 family. I took a picture of the box to have as reference if I should need more of them. Here you can read more about it > https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_E_engine
  5. Ah, I googled oilite (never heard about it) and some of them has that brass colour. Thanks, now I know.
  6. It's possible but nearly nothing in this engine is original. I'm not sure about the material of this hybrid between Triumph and Ford, but it has that "yellowish" brass colour.
  7. I have read about the VW pistons but also the Mazda pistons. They seem to be easier to convert. I have a mechanic who do the more advanced jobs on my engine. He's about 80 years old now and very experienced in (re)building engines. Many of the drivers in the historic racing series here in Sweden goes to this man for advice and maintenance of their engines (which he built in the first place). He recommended the Mazda +0.50 mm pistons when I commissioned him to build my engine. So we choosed them and they have worked fine so far. However, if i remember it right, there are some VW parts involved in the build and it is the tubular push rods.
  8. I also have the brass spigot bush in the flywheel. I don't remember if it came with the kit or we had it made. Isn't it difficult to get the input shaft in the ball race when mounting the gearbox?
  9. I will check in the weekend. And the little spigot bush looks fine.
  10. We didn't try to rotate it "in the air" if that's what you mean. It was in the normal angle when we did that. Funny, while I am writing this I got an email from Frontline. I asked them a few days ago about this but when I didn't recieve any answer I went in here to my favourite Triumphplace on the net. I quote "Re the front input shaft, there is always play of around 2 – 4mm in them. Although there is a bearing at the front, it allows a little movement, hence needing to run the spigot bush in the crank" Yes, I agree about the bellhousing. Engine works fine > gearbox works fine = something in between is messing things up.
  11. Thanks Nick, I bought the T9-kit from Frontline after the second breakdown of the Triumph box, and it have only done 25-30 miles so far. The bearings in the 2.8 version are supposed to be quite strong (and new) so if there is a problem with them after such short time there must be an even bigger problem somewere else. Strange thing I didn't notice anything the last time I drove it before it ended up in the garage for the subaru conversion. Well, it's easy to pull the box out now, with the engine out of the way, so that's what I have to do. I will come back here with some answers (I hope) in case someone else encounters the same problem. By the way, the shaft fits perfectly in the bush.
  12. Hi, I was going to change the sump seal on the GT6 because it was getting a little messy again. It is not unknown that it leaks a little on the front edge on theese engines. The sump is so close to the steering rack, and especially the rack clamp on one side, that we had to lift the engine slightly to be able to disassemble the rack. We unloaded the engine mounts (but not the gearbox mounts) and then it was enough to lift a few centimeters for finally be able to take out the sump. When we lowered the engine again my dad tried (for some reason) to rotate the crank with a socket wrench and it went well. Half a turn! Then it stopped. Same thing the other way. The gearbox was in neutral. Then we decided to get the engine out and when it was done it was easy to rotate the crank. I turned the input shaft to the gearbox (Ford type N, Sierra 2.8 V6) and it went nice and smoothly. However, I felt that it was possible to move the shaft a little laterally, maybe a few mm. Isn't there bearings that whould make it impossible to do that? Can we have broken something in the gearbox when we lifted the engine that is only noticed when the gearbox and engine are connected? It doesn't seem likely since the bellhousing and the gearbox mounts should have taken all the strenght, not the things inside. Anyone have an idea before we pull out the gearbox too?
  13. Wow, thanks for the link Nick. It was this problem with 7/16 thread vs 3/16 hole that could have made my simple plan not so simple.
  14. The holes for the pipes in the master cylinder looks similar, but if I need larger pipe for, in this case, the front brakes Im in trouble. The calipers have 3/8. My plan is to use the existing 4-way junction for the front brakes by plugging the connection to the rear breaks. Then I just have to change the nipple for the master cylinder to 7/16 and the front brakes are ready. The pipe from the rear I just extend right to the master cylinder.
  15. I think you may have a point there, and yes, you are right about the sizes. Thanks Nick.
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