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steveJM

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About steveJM

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    Mk2 Jag 1960 3.8
    Timber 1935 yacht with too much varnish work

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  1. All Battery boxes now have there homes, along with radiator. Next stage is to remove and tidy up details and send off for powder coating.
  2. Yes, I've reviewed his build on diyelectriccar.com He has since transferred all the running gear into a TR6. There are at least 6 spitfire builds i've followed over the years. All went the gear box option. My approach was to go for higher torque, hence the R160 diff replacement.
  3. The Batteries are a big hurdle, especially price i remember it well!. my Battery pack is about 216 kg, dispersed around the vehicle. Cost about $12k AUD I'm sure you can get better options with wreckers ? Although i do like the modular packs that can be packed into any size config. Held together with all thread.. The battery selection has its complexity despite the cost and needs to be selected with the motor in mind, how far you want to travel, how quick you want to go, and where you will put them. There are plenty of motors around 96v to 156v so the pack can be smaller. but they require higher Amps. eg. So you need to look at the C rating. a C rating of 10 for 100 A battery will give you 1000 Amps in a 10 sec burst . Also with low Voltage you would probably be wanting a gearbox... if you want torque you need Volts! or gear ratio... if you have a gearbox, chances are you will only need 2 gears at most, and there is the weight, and space.. I really like the idea of the direct drive, in this project. I have looked at using the same motor with a powerglide 2 speed. crunched the numbers on that for a small sedan size car. That could be interesting and no waste of extra gears. My optimum Direct drive for the spitty was 5.0 :1 diff ratio. That would give less than 6 sec 0-100klm/h and still a top speed of 160klmh. So i think 4.44:1 is pretty close off the shelf! My motor / inverter has max 400-500 Amp (depending on the age of the spec sheet) and batteries have a C rating of 8 so they can provide 576A in that short burst 10 sec. I need 108 Qty, x 3.2v to get to the 345v target mid range for motor spec. This i believe is 20 kWh (usable) @ 100klm/h will provide range 156 klm. @ 60klm/h around town can be as high as 255 klm distance. The weird thing about EV's to get you head around is the range efficiency. eg, 40klm/h will give a range of around 290 klm. Where as what we're used to, is with petrol, you get better miles / tank at higher speeds than lower speeds. Additionally for me at the time i bought these, was that the CAM72 were 30% smaller and 30% lighter than the equivalent. this is before the Tesla and other OEM wreck batteries were readily available.
  4. Some progress last week. using the original Engine mount pos' I made up a bracket that i can bolt mid battery box, and support inverter.. clearance is getting tight. top of inverter is about 20mm lower than original rocker cover. Unfortunately Bonnet is at another site. Will need to get that in place to finish of the front battery box.
  5. Ordered my Drive shaft today! . The conversion weight is a challenge, especially for a 4 cylinder replacement. it is the batteries not the motor that presents the challenge. Before i started ...Using some cheap postal scales rated to 300kg, i weighed in each wheel lowered onto the scales. Totaled 841 kg with about 53% front, 47% rear, taking into account full tank etc. Then weighed each major component as i removed them. I think i will end up with 50/50 split and a bit over weight. will do re-check once complete! here is original front Left. to help with the visualization of what I'm doing... here are my battery boxes resting in their respective places 24 in fuel tank space, 24 in boot. 2 rows of 12 in engine position 2 rows of 18 in Radiator pos' Batteries i bought direct from China brand new, most builders now use wrecked Tesla, leaf or other batteries, but not easy to find in Australia at the time of buying. the cam72 suited with good weight and volume rating. especially as i was needing such high Voltage. The range (everyone is most interested in) is around 150klm at 100klm/h apparently. CAM72FI Final.pdf MOTOR... I purchased the motor from Jack Rickard at EVTV.me in USA, Jack was very passionate about EV conversions, and still supplies a lot of equipment, but seems of late he has moved to Tesla batteries for Solar home systems more than vehicles. The Motor is from a bankruptcy of CODA (a car company), Jack bought a lot of them and reverse engineered to build his own controller he calls GEVCU 6.0 FYI... There is an inverter some 400mm x 420mmx150mm which i will need to place above the Engine-bay battery pack. see motor spec in below attachment for info.. UQM PP 100 .pdf This motor has a splined end-shaft. I purchased a Blank Coupling from EVwest.com this can be heated and shrunk fit to the spline. I had it machined to take a drive shaft end flange and fitted to the motor, you can see it in earlier photos. Will also have a park brake disc as well, but will get into that latter on.. You can also get the UQM motor from thunderstruck-ev.com but if it is out of a coda, you need Jacks Gevcu. but as far as motors go the current Fav from most installers is the Netgain Hyper-9 avial from EVwest. I also have ready to install; Battery management system, from ZEVA BMS-EVMS3 here in West-Australia, this will also turn the RPM into a Amp meter, and fuel gauge into Battery gauge. plus other clever stuff. Vehicle charger is from Chevy Volt car, got from EVTV , 3.3kw which i suspect will be 4 hours charging if memory is right. I have a small radiator and electric pump which i will have to squeeze in, that will be for Motor, inverter, and vehicle charger . Batteries will not be fluid cooled. throttle will be via a potentiometer connected to original throttle cable. from EVwest or EVTV Heater, i will place 2 small 12v ceramic heating elements in where the fluid heaters were. and plan to use existing fan., DC-dc have planned to use a small Mean Well SP-480 takes direct DC 350v and gives output 12v 40 amps. might be a bit light on especially with the heater... attraction is they are small and light. maybe a second one for heater? headlights and all lighting will be converted to LED, Speedo will be controlled by Classic speed, uses gps to drive mechanical speedos. see attached bb633d_1ac608d3b56e47cbaceb982b27bda937.pdf Forward, reverse, park neutral.... i was hoping to install a rotary dial from a Chevrolet 200 but looks too hard. will start with push button momentary relay switching. To finish off Here is my GT6 rear end with Suby diff installed. rover 100 shafts fit straight into large Suby CV stub axles with around 10mm play. Hope that's enough..
  6. I've had this Spitty since 1989 when living in the UK up North. Currently in Melbourne Australia. Decided many years ago to do a re-build and started investigating EV conversion. This has been a long time in the making .. not so much making. Mostly designing and buying pretty well everything ... The hard part has been getting started! A pic from awhile ago of my boy helping in getting started. The build Spec's GT6 rotoflex conversion, uprights machined out to MGF bearing (thanks Nick for help there) Bought some Fiesta / Rover 100 Drive shafts off Ebay in UK. WRX Subaru 4.44 VLSD Diff. The Motor. UQM 100PP, 300Nm Torque, Max RPM 8000, Eventually i decided to go Direct drive. the 4.44:1 Subby Diff on paper will give me 0-60mph in about 6.7 Sec The size of the Motor has allowed me to shoe horn it into the Tranny tunnel. Again took me way to long to decide on Motor mount design. But all tacked in as of last week! yeah!!! The batteries. I'm using CALB CAM 3.2v 72Ah x qty-108 batteries. Again have finally worked out where. and made frames to hold all the batteries. In the process of getting the battery boxes welded in now the Motor is locked in place.
  7. Thanks for your help. trying to get confirmation before next purchase.. steve
  8. Has any one managed to obtain the m12 x 1.5 studs with full length thread? I purchased set for front (Rear MGF hub has full length threads) the image on the web site (product CLP9037L) indicated the full length thread but alas arrived ...thread cut short... Wondering if any one has been able to locate a suitable reliable supplier of these studs?
  9. just re-read this, must have been drinking. I can confirm the fit of of the old Fiesta shafts into the Subby Stub axle, but not confirm the travel distance is perfect yet. Although it does have around 55mm travel BUT bench test looks ok. I did have to get a few Subby stub axles to find the right ones. (the larger diameter size fit)
  10. To answer your question Nick, No i haven't used the Newer Fiesta shafts.. I managed to pick up a few years ago an older Fiesta set. and the old and new look the same from a distance... Although i have not yet installed in the car, i can not confirm their size fit with Subby Stub axles. I did pull them of the Stub axle on the weekend and measured from edge that fits against the MGF bearing, and the end of the axle, See pic 420mm The Subby Diff has around 55mm plunge. Hopefully in the next couple of months i will have installed and comment further.
  11. Is this what your looking for http://www.pumaspeed.co.uk/product-Ford-Fiesta-ST180-Short-Driveshaft_16821.jsp
  12. Est freight costs via - instant online quote from pack&send from here in Aus, 1 set $140 aud, 2 sets $200, 3 sets $250. (in one package.)
  13. Can send as gift to any one making purchase. I currently have a batch of 10 sets scheduled, (hence the lower price) castings being machine this week, spring & base plate should be with me in 2 - 3 weeks time. many small changes and improvements compared to the original NZ design i had made 3 years ago. Based on replies to date only 5 sets left. So please confirm ASAP, as my window closes early next week to extend the order qty. steve
  14. New improved R160 kit in production. Based on previous offer in 2015 with some improvements. See pic's Includes Qty 1 Rear plate, Qty 1 Modified stronger front plate, Qty 1 Spring plate to take original Triumph studs, with spring guide as per original. Pre-production order for complete set $640 AUD Send PM to arrange 50% up front PayPal payment to secure order. Freight from Melbourne Australia at your cost to be included in final payment before shipping. (OR/ you can arrange freight yourself) Weight of parts complete 6 kg
  15. For someone who might be interested, but pick up only USA... complete kit for spitfire to GT6/MGF rear & Subaru diff conversion http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-GT6-Spitfire-LSD-Rotoflex-project-/321815845874?hash=item4aedb81bf2&vxp=mtr
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