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steveJM

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About steveJM

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    Advanced Member

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    Male
  • Interests
    Mk2 Jag 1960 3.8
    Timber 1935 yacht with too much varnish work

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  1. Handbrake cable was installed prior to axles & spring, and discovering my error...impossible to remove now... so will cut off rather than dismantle rear suspension. and Yes, Is the original Spit 1500 cable guide with GT6 roto cable... FYI according to rimmer Roto cable 137mm in length. I'm still pondering to use existing Spit cable guides and making shorter cable. or to fab cable guide and attache to body tub as per GT6 set up... and get new GT6 roto cable. difference in arc seems minimal ...
  2. Thanks Nick, Will get back to that latter and add to tub. got my Chassis and parts back pretty quickly, despite being out of action for a number of weeks, some progress. hmmm pic not loading?
  3. Nick. Ooops had no idea they moved the guides for rotoflex. Anyone have pics that show where they are.? I gather ill have to cut off existing and reattach...
  4. Ohhhh. I didn't pick up on that... thought the chassis mounts were used.
  5. starting to reassemble after blasting and powder coating... As discussed, have converted the Spit1500 to GT6 Rotoflex with various mods... Looking for some advice... I purchased replacement Handbrake cable from Rimmer. 149353 was listed as GT6 Rotoflex. After installing it appears to be same length as what i removed, if not longer...? which is way too long .... waiting on Rimmer to come back with comment on total length... any experience out there with this?
  6. Enviable skills and great inspiration... Always looking forward to your posts...
  7. Plan A for Regen is to use a pressure transducer in the brake line. available from EVTV or EVwest, the GEVCU controller has inputs to receive 0-5 v signal as pressure is applied to the brake line. apparently it should be a matter of tweaking in the program already installed, instructions included... options B. also included in the gevcu is to adjust the hall effect throttle in the program so that before pedal reaches 0v pos' the throttle goes from throttle to regen. Again this is adjusted in the installed program. not sure i want this, more inclined to maybe have some creep function inst
  8. Hmm sorry, was not on my list to do. considered a one off for my particular application. Did take a few photos .. The tube is 25mm thin wall. I used pipe bender to angle to match engine mount clamp bolts, used some 5mm flat. and then decided to get a bit creative with the welding of the tube-ends to flat plate, by making an arrow head type end. This brace works to provide at least 3 functions i needed to resolve. Strengthen /support the shock towers, attach engine block-pos' battery boxes, provide support to 30kg inverter which sits on top. The inverter also extends to t
  9. ... Straight UJ from gearbox will give constant velocity output.....
  10. I understand the theoretical benefit is to have the cv where there is greater angle. And th UJ at the grearbox end which. If pointed directly at the diff. Will have minimal angle. ... but i can confirm my 1500 shaft always had the cv at grear. Never given any thought.
  11. When making the motor mounts for and aft i deliberately tilted the motor slightly down at the back. Discovered today with body tub off, motor is tilting about 2.5 degrees. According to google ... drive shafts perform best if the output shaft of the motor / & Diff are parallel yet can be off centre with angle upto 3 degrees ... (i previously thought is was upto 7 degrees ?) To have the least vibration. Any one know what std triumph 4 cyl angle tilt is? or Std diff ? or are they flat ? Alas, I lifted the front of the diff by 5mm packing shims between diff and suppor
  12. Thanks for the comments. Strip down and repairs continue. Battery boxes at powder-coater. worked out a solution to lift body off on my own! was pretty chuffed. seems so obvious in hindsight... made trolley to move body-tub around. now up on hoist, so i can work from underneath. front bonnet hinge rusted out. so the repairs started. hoping to get Chassis all repaired in the next week. Then strip down to send off, new motor mounts and chassis to powder coater . that will give me some time to learn how to do repairs and clean up of the unde
  13. All Battery boxes now have there homes, along with radiator. Next stage is to remove and tidy up details and send off for powder coating.
  14. Yes, I've reviewed his build on diyelectriccar.com He has since transferred all the running gear into a TR6. There are at least 6 spitfire builds i've followed over the years. All went the gear box option. My approach was to go for higher torque, hence the R160 diff replacement.
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