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Darren Groves

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Everything posted by Darren Groves

  1. Just to close up this thread. Stronger yellow springs with AAN needles didn't really help, however fitting AAQ needles and going back to the standard red springs has made a marked difference. I can now have it leaner at idle ( had to have it quite rich before otherwise barely drivable under load), and good AFR readings under load/when accelerating, the car feels much happier and more drivable, so quite happy with that outcome. Thanks to those that helped...
  2. I've not had any time to check this issue further, but did decide to order some stronger springs (yellow), the old ones I assume were the standard red, but as there were no colour markings left on them I'm not sure. I don't suppose the uneven lengths on the old springs were helping much though....
  3. No PCV, crankcase connected direct to carbs.
  4. Hi Nick. I have a Bell 4 branch manifold & semi sport exhaust and I do have double springs on the valves. Thanks for the needle suggestions, will give one of them a try and see what it gives me. Cheers Darren
  5. I have a MK4 1300 Spitfire, the camshaft is from a MK3 but the cylinder head is MK4, twin SU HS2's with AAN needles, standard air filter set-up with 20/50 oil in the dashpots. The car has a wideband controller fitted to aid tuning, at idle it's around 13.8~14.0:1 and at cruising speeds it's about the same. However under light to moderate acceleration and under load the AFR readings lean right off to something like 17.0:1, which I'm guessing is way too lean? Was hoping someone might be able to give some advice on the best approach to try and correct this. If new needles, then which would be a good place to start, I have looked at http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/ but tbh whilst I can see the changes on the graph I wouldn't know which is the best option. Would just fitting stronger springs be worthwhile before trying richer needles? Any advice appreciated!
  6. Anyone know of a UK supplier that sells an AFR gauge suitable for the Spartan 2 controller? I have tried all the usual people and they don't do them. I can buy one from 14point7, but then you're into international shipping and potential import charges when it arrives. Thanks
  7. Just to bring some closure to this thread, just by chance someone I know was selling a brand new Powertune servo for half of the rrp, so I bought it. Fitted it today, bled the brakes, started the car and no locking of brakes like before, took it for a test drive and it worked just as it should. So that just confirms the original unit was faulty.....now to do some investigation to see if I can fix it! Thanks to all for your contributions....
  8. Having a quick look around..... Canley's list a Lockheed unit at over £300...https://www.canleyclassics.com/?product=brake-servo-kit also listed at Moss.....https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/brake-servo-kit-inline-tt3949.html Rimmer's list one (but for an MGB) at just over £200....https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GSM125 Rimmer's also list an Air Valve repair kit, but maybe to fix a leaking unit rather than a sticky one? ....https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RH5272RKIT
  9. Thanks for the replies guys. So I think the conclusion is that Powertune units are cheap rubbish and best avoided. I do want to have a working servo, so maybe I give up on the powertune one and get something better quality. A very quick Google and Rimmers are listing an alternative to their Aftermarket option (which is likely a Powertune unit), not a fan of Rimmers overpricing policy, so any recommendations on good quality options and reasonable prices. Cheers
  10. Thanks for sharing this link, I had seen that a couple of days ago and it confirms that I have installed as per the instructions, so angle is correct and the air valve pointing downward is also correct. The brakes lock on pretty much immediately after starting even without touching the brakes, pumping the pedal doesn't help. I have checked the MC operation and that all seems fine.
  11. I don't think it's MC related as it's never stuck on previously when the servo wasn't working. It's mounted on the bracket provided so orientation should be spot on. I'll hopefully have an opportunity to look in more detail over the weekend...
  12. We have progress, there is plenty of suck from the hose attached to the manifold, so as expected not having a NRV pointing the wrong way has fixed that. However......as soon as the car is running and the servo has pressurised the brakes are locking on and the only way to release them is pull out the NRV on the servo. Again I didn't have time to investigate further, though as I adjusted the rear brakes recently could it just be they need backing off a little?
  13. Well they say that confession cleanses the soul, might be too little too late for me though.
  14. We've just posted at the same time.... not had time to test, but I'm guessing it will be ok now...
  15. I have to admit to being a total numpty and fitting the, what I now know was an alternative NRV, at the manifold end, which of course was pointing the wrong way. In my defence the kit come without instructions, so taking the 'I don't need instructions' attitude assumed it was for fitment at the manifold. So..... I have now removed the innards of the incorrectly mounted NRV so it is now just operating as a barb. This was done late last night, so I've not had an opportunity to test yet. I'll hang my head in shame...
  16. You are correct, the NRV is at the servo end.
  17. The one way valve is at the manifold end, there was only one way it could be fitted. I'll take it off to see if it's working OK.
  18. Not had much time to look at this, but I did disconnect the vacuum hose from the servo and it made no difference to the brakes, so that confirms the servo is doing nothing. From the disconnected end of the vacuum hose, should I be able to feel any suction? Because I don't, regardless of revs. A couple of photos before just for reference.
  19. I had tried this and there is no difference in the pedal feel when the engine starts.
  20. My Herald is mid restoration, but thinking ahead a little I was considering fitting a modern radiator & expansion tank rather than getting the original one sorted. Anyone done this before? If so what did you use? Just to save me trawling through lots of radiator options to find something. Thank you !
  21. In 25 years of Triumph ownership I've never had a car with a Brake Servo, until last year when I finished the restoration of a MKIV Spitfire as I decided to fit one of the usual remote kits available from the usual suppliers. The brakes on the Spitfire work great, but they don't feel servo-assisted but as I haven't got any previous knowledge of how they should feel with a servo maybe I'm just expecting too much. Can anyone recommend a series of test to determine whether the servo is actually working. Thanks
  22. It's now working, with both the Bosch and aftermarket sensor....
  23. Hi, Was definitely an LSU4. 9 sensor that came with the controller, the start up sequence on the display also confirms this. Pics attached are from the original one. Cheers
  24. Thanks Nick, Its an LD Performance controller and it was giving wildly erratic readings, I sent a video of how it was behaving and they said faulty sensor, but I guess they would. . I actually bought two replacement sensors, a genuine Bosch and an aftermarket copy, fitting the cheaper one and the controller didn't even recognise it was connected, that was yesterday..... I'll try the Bosch one today, hopefully that will sort it. Cheers Darren
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