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Darren Groves

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Everything posted by Darren Groves

  1. Ah,Ok. I let it auto-detect - will have another go tonight.
  2. I'm currently running MSExtra Firmware 3.2.1, I wanted to update to the latest version 3.4.2 purely to see if it would fix a rev counter issue I have when the Over Run Fuel Cut kicks in. The update went fine, but when I tried to load my saved tune it reported a load of errors/mismatches which you could either view or ignore. I went back to my old firmware, loaded the saved tune and all was fine. Thought I'd try again, so upgraded to the new one, loaded the tune and the same errors. Sorry, not much detail about the reported errors as I had to get the car running, so had to go back to the old Firmware. So I guess my question is, should you be able to load a msq file created in v3.2.1 to v3.4.2 without issue? Darren
  3. Dizzy long gone, I have the Ford Coil Pack mounted there now. Are you saying that the TPS should be calibrated to 0% at it's partially open idle position? I calibrated the 0% without the throttle cable connected so it was fully closed, then opened up slightly to get the desired idle speed, so it's currently at 3% at idle. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I am running an older version of the MSExtra Firmware, so may just update it to the latest version in case the rev counter thing is just a bug, as it seems nobody else has this problem, the MSExtra Forum has provided no clues either. Just so I don't screw up my current tune during the process, obviously I save it and reload the after the update, but are there any settings that will need manually changed after. I seem to recall reading that some sensors need re-calibrating after a firmware upgrade, but can't find where I read that. Darren
  4. FT..... I normally put mine on with a impact wrench, never lost one yet, others may have different methods. Never seen a lock tab. Darren
  5. I did try to pick up the tacho signal from the coil originally but it didn't work, though that was before I'd had it converted so that might be an option if I can't resolve through Tunerstudio. On the plus side it's a visible reminder that I'm saving fuel . I posted the question on the MSExtra forum, but need to supply a data log, job for the morning. Darren
  6. The circumference of a pulley for that engine is conveniently just over 36cm, therefore every mm - 1°, so just measure 6mm from TDC and you'll be close enough. Just loosen the clamp on the base of the distributor and twist to make adjustment. Darren
  7. I'm using the Tacho Out (Pin 35) on the Microsquirt, the Rev Counter was converted by Speedycables and I then just had to use a pull--up resistor but it's worked absolutely fine since then. Darren
  8. Thanks Nick/Richard, Had a bit of time to play with this today, I set the RPM to 1250, Delay to 0.7s, Temp to 70°C, 30kPa as I seemed to be around mid 20's on the overrun and the TPS at 4% as mine is at 3% at idle. This had no adverse affect to the smoothness of the drive and I could see the AFR reading go off the scale lean on the overrun, so I'll just leave that as it is as it seems to work fine. One odd thing though is that my Smiths rev counter drops to 0 as soon as the fuel cut kicks in and comes straight back as so as I touch the accelerator and the fuel cut stops, the revs on the Tunerstudio dash are still, any ideas? Darren
  9. Any recommendations on whether the Over Run Fuel Cut should be turned on my Microsquirt? If so, would the default settings be OK? Darren
  10. Both the temp sensors on mine are standard GM rating so just had to select from a drop down list in Tunerstudio. I ended up buying a Jam thermometer from the Pro Cook shop for £8 just so I could check. Thermometer & Tunerstudio reading were within 1c of each other. Darren
  11. Both the temp sensors on mine are standard GM rating so just had to select from a drop down list in Tunerstudio. I ended up buying a Jam thermometer from the Pro Cook shop for £8 just so I could check. Thermometer & Tunerstudio reading were within 1c of each other. Darren
  12. Hi Roger, In what way is your tickover erratic? Settles to a different rpm each time you're at idle or up & down slightly as it's idling? If the latter, then this is how mine ended up and seemed to get worse the more runs I done with the Autotune, my RR session last week fixed all that, it's now smooth. I think the IAC valve does vary the speed a little, mine now works pretty well but sometimes the idle is slightly different each time I'm idling, only marginally but as it's partially open all the time I do also think this may be the reason. Saying that, it's actually working pretty well and I've done very little to it. You could get one of these: http://www.efisource.com/shop/microsquirt-iac-stepper-adapter/ and fit a Stepper Type Valve. Darren
  13. Sorry, second link didn't work above, so here it is again: https://www.14point7.com/blogs/news/16539352-maximizing-accuracy-between-spartan-2-and-megasquirt
  14. I used the Spartan 2 http://extraefi.co.uk/products/accessories.html and there's a simple process to fine tune it's accuracy: https://www.14point7.com/blogs/news/16539352-maximizing-accuracy-between-spartan-2-and-megasquirt worked a treat for me and it used the Bosch 4.9 sensor. I know Rogerguzzi has used the LD Performance one, he had some trouble getting it to work but can't remember why.... I considered that one but was worried as there was no address or fixed line telephone number for the supplier, so thought the back-up might be a bit iffy if there was a problem.
  15. It's actually a really good set-up there, just been upgraded to 4WD and only 5 miles from home, so super convenient. I was driving past it for 6 months and didn't realise it was there! Very pleased with end results, drives really well. Darren
  16. After doing around a 1000 miles since the EFI install, I have been pleased with how the car has been running but always thought it could be better. The new engine has been in a few weeks, so with both my tuning know how and time in short supply I decided to take it to a local Rolling Road to get set-up properly. I normally use Dave Baskervilles in Barnstaple, but always felt he didn't quite get it right so today I tried a local garage that have had a RR for about a year now. They were under strict instruction not to try and squeeze every last ounce out of the car, but get it just running nicely. Very pleased with how the car drove, without doubt the best it's been in my 19 years of ownership. The new engine has a Spitfire MK3 Camshaft, MKIV Cylinder Head, CR I didn't bother to calculate but the head measurements indicated it had never been skimmed and it only had a light skim to ensure it was flat, so just over 9.0:1 I guess. Bhp & Torque figures ended up at 74.1 & 81.7, so pretty happy with that. They done a few tweaks before putting it on the RR, the first run was came back at 60 & 73, so good improvements from what I had done.
  17. Occasionally (though twice today) my Herald just cuts out, I look down and the ignition lights are on but I'm coasting to a stop, on most occasions the car restarts fine and I carry on. This seems to have become more frequent since I switched to EFI, though my gut feeling tells me that's just a coincidence. I had something similar when I was running Megajolt & Carbs a couple of years ago, the starter seemed sluggish afterwards on those occasions, so I added an additional earth lead from the engine to where the battery earth connected to the body, this seemed to fix it that time round. Until a couple of weeks ago I had one of those dis-car-nect jobbies on the battery earth terminal and each time it happened the small bypass fuse blew. Thinking this might be the issues I removed it and went back to an earth lead direct to the body, but I have had the issue again today, so can't be that. One thing that does happen every time is that I lose all the presets on the radio, which says to me that there is a complete momentary loss of electrics rather than an ECU glitch or loss of power to the ECU, Pump Or Injectors etc. I have an alternative battery I can borrow for a while, so I will see if that helps. But before I start checking connections & wiring anyone else had something similar? Darren
  18. I would be wary of the rings that come with County pistons, there are few cases of premature failure, including on the engine I've just taken out of my Herald. The replacement engine I've just put in has County pistons, but the rings we sourced from another manufacturer.
  19. Quick update on the Bosch Idle Valve. I have now fitted the diode and that has widened the operating range greatly, no chattering of the valve as before and was heaps more controllable. I restricted the airflow into the valve with a piece of rubber hose as I worked on the basis that only a small increase in airflow will be enough to lift the revs sufficiently. I tried a slightly different approach to setting than before, in that the I got the engine to a warm idle, worked out at what Idle Duty % it was fully closed which was 34% and 35% lifted it to around 1100rpm. I used 35 as the Duty % around the temps of a fully cold engine at current ambient temps, 36% for a bit colder and 34% a bit before it reaches it's normal running temps. Started the car this morning from fully cold and she settled down to just under 1000rpm pretty much straight away, that all seemed too easy.... I'm sure that it will need a fair bit more adjustment to get it just right in all temps, but a pretty good starting point. I didn't bother setting the Cranking Duty %, just left that at fully closed for now, will adjust that once I'm happy Darren
  20. Hi Richard, Did you ever try setting up the IAC Valve in Warm-Up mode only rather than closed loop? Darren
  21. Thanks for the replies. I'm going to go with the same set-up as the 1200 Herald. Use the connection on the head to Smith's valve, then the heater outlet to the under manifold pipe. This will mean blanking off the end, but with be less hoses/connections than the alternative. I can then have the 2 temp sensors side by side on the water pump housing. esxefi - got any pics of your heatshield, just to give me an idea of where to start? Thanks Darren
  22. These pics may help. The hose from the top of the water pump housing goes to a t-piece, one hose goes to the top heater connection the other down to the under manifold pipe. The other hose on the under manifold pipe goes to the smiths heater valve. Now I've typed that is seems round the wrong way, but still a circuit though. If I just remove the hose from the water pump housing to the t-piece, won't that just leave the return/under manifold pipe and no hot feed? That's why I was thinking I could use the connection at the back of the head which is currently blanked off. Darren
  23. So now the Herald is running EFI, the water pipe that used to run through the inlet manifold to warm it is now not needed. To keep things circulating I just used rubber hose to maintain the circuit (see pic). So what are my options to get rid of this pipe completely? If I just removed it and replaced the t-piece by the heater valve with a straight connector, that would stop circulation I guess? So what if I used the blanking plug which is at the back of the cylinder head to join into this t-piece by the heater valve, would that keep the flow correct to the heater? IIRC The early Heralds didn't have the water pipe through the manifold, so I guess it can be done. Darren
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