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Darren Groves

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About Darren Groves

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    Just passed my test!

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  1. Rewire

    Everything works fine now, all electrical circuits, the change to VW Coil Pack and car is running nicely again......that was only after I had the car running like a dog for ages, wondering why it was running very, very rich to the point it was struggling to run at all. Then I wondered why the MAP sensor reading was around 1 bar........oh, that would be because I hadn't connected the tube from the plenum back into the sensor.......what a numpty.
  2. Rewire

    Dashboard all connected up and everything behaving normally now, so earthing was the issue. Thanks all for you input and encouraging me to recheck the earths! Next job is to see if the move from Ford Coil Pack & EDIS to VW coil pack is working OK. Darren
  3. Rewire

    Initially I though the rivnut was a good idea, newly drilled hole with fresh clean metal and the rivnut crimped in against it, but completely take the point it has the potential to work loose. I have now run a 30amp earth cable from the rivnut back to where the earth strap from the battery bolts to the body. From this point there is also an additional earth strap down to where the starter, backplate & bell housing bolt together and this is where all the EFI earths come to, so I'm now pretty confident that earthing is well covered....time will tell when I connect up the dash again to do some testing. Many thanks. Darren
  4. Rewire

    I added an additional earth strap from battery to engine a couple of years ago when the starter was intermittently lazy, this connected to one of the starter motor mounting bolts. The EFI earth's are a few bolts round on the bellhousing, so are nearby, but think it will be wise to use the same location for both. All the earth's for everything else are at one point behind the dash, bolted in to a rivnut. A chunky cable back to where the earth strap connects to the body can't do any harm either, so will do that also. Thanks for the replies. Darren
  5. Rewire

    I did probe the 2 relays whilst the flashers were on, the one that feeds the ECU, Injectors & IAC Valve was a constant 12.xx volt, the one that operates the Fuel Pump & 02 sensor which earths through the ECU was pulsing in time with the flashers. I could remove this relay though and the IAC Valve & Injectors would click in time. I didn’t try with just the ignition on again after I started the car this morning, when I got home this evening I tried again and it’s now not doing it all, how does that work?..... I think I’ll double check the EFI earthing, this has always been on a bolt through the bellhousing/engine backplate. I did disconnect it, shorten and connecting to a bolt further round that bolts through the bellhousing straight into the engine block, I guess there could be oiled in between the surfaces prevent a clean contact. Will have another play on Sunday. Darren
  6. Rewire

    So my main winter project was to rewire the Herald, 20 years of adding various electrical items had left it like a birds nest behind the dash. I have run all the cables, connected fuse boxes and relays etc so now it was time to do some testing. The good news was that everything seems to work. Lights, Flashers, Heater etc etc. all good until I added fuses to power up the Microsquirt ECU. Turn on the ignition and you hear the Fuel pump kick in and then stop as it should, but if you turn on the indicators or hazards the the Fuel Pump powers up, Injectors Click and the IAC Valve open & closes in sync with the on/off of the flashers. You also get a similar thing when pulling out the main light switch to the on position, but with that it's just the once. 12v supplies and earths for EFI & everything else are separate, the only common areas are the fuse boxes below. The one on the left supplies everything ignition fed the one on the right perm lives.The fuse boxes are the type that are powered at a single point and then feed 10 fused connections to relays & electrical items. The Ignition fed fuse box is supplied by a 40amp relay. This is the Fusebox for everything EFI related I thought it may be low battery or bad earth, but have ensured both are fine, and I have retraced the wiring for flashers/lights and they are seem to be right. The only change on the EFI wiring has been relocation of the relays to a base in the centre of the car and I have swapped from EDIS/Ford Coil Pack to VW Coil Pack (No EDIS), the car starts but sounds like a bag of nails, but that maybe just to set-up of the new ignition, but I run out of time and had to leave for work. I will go back and recheck everything, but thought I'd ask the question here just in case there is something obvious it might be that I am just missing. Darren
  7. 'standard' electronic ignition

    I know plenty have used the Accuspark units and found them ok, however my experience with anything Accuspark is that it's cheap rubbish and best avoided, I was told that some of the early 4 cylinder units were tested and the pick-up weren't at 90°. I used an Aldon Ignitor for over 10 years and that done a good job, have fitted Lumenition kits to friends cars and these have worked well too. These guys are also worth a try: http://www.h-h-ignitionsolutions.co.uk/ Darren
  8. FOR SALE - Triumph Dolomite 1850

    You know you do.....
  9. I was contacted by a very sweet old lady from down in Plymstock, Devon who has recently had to give up driving and wanted help selling her 1979 Dolomite 1850, which she has owned from new. Anyone looking for a bit of a project? So here are the good and bad points... 2 Owners from new, but same family at same address Genuine 54000 miles Tahiti Blue I collected it as a non-runner, but just needed a fuel pump and it now starts on the key. Everything on the car seems to work, except the wipers which don't park. MoT expired July 2016 It does have some issues, which are: Bodywork 3 of the doors will need replacing, the other needs some repair work. Will need a new NS Sill and repair to rear arch Hole in boot floor where it meets the inner arches NS front wing has had a parking bump, but would pull out easy. Boot Lid corners need a repair Front valance needs a repair Inside A-Pillars also need welding Chrome is pretty good, but some trim will need replacing. Interior Drivers Seat is well worn Passenger Seat has a split as does the rear seat back Loads of pictures attached and a short video of her running. I have driven her for a couple of miles and she starts, drives and stops very well. This car is very savable and would make an excellent project. Customer is looking for around £950, but I'm sure she will take a sensible offer. If I can't sell it for her, then I may restore myself! Please message me if you're interested Video & Images below.
  10. AFR Reading

    Mine is wired up with the Fuel Pump relay which switches off after a couple of seconds if you don't crank the engine, but I must confess to bypassing this and powering up and leaving on for a bit when I was getting things set-up in the early days, but only a handful of times, but maybe that caused some damage. We'll see how it goes. Darren
  11. AFR Reading

    Just a standard length bung and the sensor is at around 1 O'clock. Darren
  12. AFR Reading

    Good news is that the new o2 sensor has done the trick and everything is working again. Not so good news is that I did have to pay some import charges which meant it was only a small saving on buying from a UK supplier, but no big deal. A bit curious as to why it only lasted a few thousand miles, will be more curious if this one does the same.... Darren
  13. AFR Reading

    Pretty confident the wiring is OK, has been working fine since conversion. I have used silicone spray in my garage, but not anywhere around the engine bay. I do use an additive: http://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/vspe-power-plus-multishot/624 but I did contact Millers to ask if it was safe with Injectors & o2 sensors, which they confirmed it was. New o2 sensor is due for delivery today, so should know by early next week it it was the problem. Darren
  14. AFR Reading

    No dilema Phil, just it's not working and I want to get it resolved within the warranty period of the controller. I appreciate the o2 sensor isn't critical as the car has been set-up on a RR, but it's a useful diagnostic tool if nothing else. I have a new Bosch sensor coming from across the pond for $63 delivered (hoping it sneaks through customs without any import charges ), so hopefully that will sort it. Thanks to all Darren
  15. AFR Reading

    Hi Nick, The AFR gauge had a max of 19 and the EGO volts a max of 5, so I extended both the gauge ranges and got readings of 19.6AFR & 4.99v, I also probed the o2 cable from controller to ECU and got 5v, so would seem TS is displaying correctly. Wiring looks sound and some jiggling around of cables at key points made no difference, so I'm back to thinking a sensor or controller fault. I think a new sensor is my best bet, just feeling a bit mean at the moment so hoping to find one cheap. If that doesn't sort it, then I'll have to return the controller for testing. Do you think I should disable the o2 sensor for now or turn down the ECU authority % right down in the EGO Control settings? Darren
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