Mr Tiger

I managed to replace the indicator / headlight stalk yesterday and luckily, everything seems to be working as it should. After disconnecting the battery there don't seem to be any issues with the car running differently. Also, the radio still works. The only part I found difficult was removing and refitting the airbag. If anyone else needs to replace a stalk on a modern Toyota, the links below may be of help. If you are lucky enough to have the airbag held in to the steering wheel with two torx screws, this link explains most of what you'll need. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgWSzVeILhc&feature=youtu.be If your airbag doesn't have the torx screws, it's probably held in with three metal spring clips. I found these difficult to release as they are behind the airbag. The theory seems to be that you put a screwdriver through the one hole in the steering wheel and release the first spring clip. That's easier said than done. Once the first clip is released, in theory, the airbag should be loose enough to reach the other two clips. The video link below shows the clips and the hole in steering wheel for the screwdriver. I don't know what language it is in but it clearly shows the clips and screwdriver hole. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCzIbq77d3w The procedure is also discussed in the following link: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46511 The video below is also useful as it shows removal of the steering column cowl and the electriccal connectors that need to be undone. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUapQVygKRU It's a shame that this sort of work is needed on modern cars at such a low mileage. Mine has done under 23k but I've heard of some with problems at 10k miles. The indicators work properly on my 1971 TVR, that's been around the clock at least once. The new indicator /headlight stalk was a few pence short of £103 from my local Toyota dealer. Chris

Thanks for your reply Nick. I wasn't aware that the battery should be disconnected 30 minutes or so before disturbing the airbag. You may well have saved me some nasty injuries, for which I am grateful. I'm fairly certain the stalk or contacts within are worn. All indicators work with the hazzards switched on. Sometimes, when the right hand indicators don't work, giving the stalk a shove gets them going again, briefly. Thanks again, Chris

The indicators on my 2009 Yaris work properly when turning left but are unreliable when turning right. A bit of Googling suggests that the stalk or switch wears out rapidly and is a common problem. Mine has done under 23k miles from new. I believe the steering wheel has to be removed to get at the stalk and the airbag has to be removed to get the steering wheel off. If I disconect the battery for safety, are there likely to be any computer or sensor issues when it is reconnected? Also, will the radio code be lost if the battery is disconnected? Any advice would be appreciated. Many thanks, Chris

Thanks everyone for the replies and PMs. Nick I'm sorry you had to wait 5 years for your transmission but somewhat heartened all the same as I've only been waiting 3 years and 10 months. I hope to be able to update this thread at some point in the future with a positive outcome. Cheers, Chris

Hi, I paid Gareth in full for a 6-3-1 manifold in June 2014. The last I heard from him was in July 2017 when he said he'd be sending it ASAP via air freight. Still no sign of it. Has anyone had to wait this long for parts from him before? Chris

Does anyone have current contact details for Gareth Thomas? I paid him for a 6-3-1 in June 2014 and have not received it. Chris

Thanks for your reply Nick. According to the Minty Lamb site, even with a 4.55 diff (which I hope it doesn't have) it should do around 67 mph at 3250 rpm with a 25% o/d. The TVR has 165 80 tyres on 15" wheels. At an indicated 70mph the rev counter is showing a little under 3500 rpm in o/d 4th. When checking with a sat nav, the car is actually doing 61 mph when the speedo reads 70. I've had the rev counter checked with a local garage MOT gas tester and the tester shows 3300 rpm when the rev counter reads 3000, making the car even lower geared than I'd first thought. Do all the gearboxes of this type - Saloon, TR, Stag and Sprint have aluminium cases/bell housings by the way? I'll keep a look out for your former PI. I haven't seen one of these for a long time. Chris

Hi, I'm trying to find out the type of diff and gearbox that are in my 1971 TVR 2500. The car is supposed to have TR6 units as far as I understand and the diff is supposed to be a 3.45:1. The car is very low geared though. I've found the number 'E2071' on the diff casing and '.30 L 76 -' (with a dot at the beginning and dash at the end) on the gearbox near the clutch lever cross shaft. It has a 25% J type overdrive if that helps narrow things down at all. I can't find these numbers or even anything similar on any web sites I've tried. Perhaps I've missed a crucial letter off the beginning of both. It's not easy to see clearly when under the car with a lead light. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks, Chris

Thanks for your reply Nick and all your previous ones. I really must get a digi camera asap. I think I'm a bit stuck in the 1970s. Chris

I've recently bought a gas flowed 2500S inlet manifold and I would like to change the water pipe as it's rusted through in one area. The manifold currently on my car seems to have a straight stainless steel water pipe fitted. To replace the rusted one would I need to cut off the ends of the old pipe and drill or file out the remains? Also what would be the recommended way of attaching a new pipe to the manifold? The manifold currently on my car seems to have a modified throttle linkage. I won't be able to use this on the flowed one without drilling and tapping, which I'd rather avoid it possible. Does anyone know where I can get a HS6 throttle linkage (rods & bracket etc.) from. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks, Chris

Thanks for your reply. This looks like a fair bit of work and expense but probably worth it. One to add to my wanted list. Chris

Hi, I hope you don't mind me joining your thread so late. I'm using HS6s which I've recently rebuilt and also have some mixture problems. I didn't know you could check the air to fuel ratio while driving the car. What are you using for this? Thanks, Chris

Thanks both for the contact details and sources of further info. I'll be following these up. Cheers, Chris

Hi, Does anyone know how I can get hold of a copy of the revised Tuning Manual by Gareth Thomas or even how I can contact him please? Cheers, Chris