josh18
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Posts posted by josh18
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Andy I just put a bolt and copper washer in the top of mine, seems to work well and doesn't leak so far.
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Hey Nick its just an R160, so probably not so strong, but they are cheap and plentiful at least.
As for forced induction I know there is a guy on the net that has had a turbo'd TR6 for years with a drawthrough SU setup and water/ meth injection for charge cooling. Reckons its great. I feel that due to the awesome mid range a turbo gives, even though turbos put more stress on the engine the revs would be able to be kept much lower so overall force would be similar to a tuned NA engine. Its all for fun anyway, will be good to find out one day.
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This is how it sounds now. The engine was rebuilt .030" overbore, multi angle valve job/ back cut valves, 10.5:1 compression, lighter flywheel, newman 300/280 cam same as Nick and Andy use and had previously been balanced. I had it re-balanced with the new clutch. It does go hard with bulk mid range torque but not so much top end as it seemed to to have before- I have advanced the cam timing, I think I went too far. Also I dont think my distributor gives enough high end advance. I like the idea of EFI where I can change anything i like with a few key strokes.
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And the brakes
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Hi guys, sorry I missed that. Yeah I have the PI still, don't think I'll ever get rid of it. It has been off the road for over three years now. But in that time I have rebuilt it to decent fast road spec, 2.5" exhaust, put in a Subaru LSD, RX7 front brakes, converted the dash to MK2 steering column and gauges, race drivers seat and Alfa GTV passenger and probably lots Ive forgotten. I have driven it as I had to move it to move house and a few quick fangs up the road, it goes like the clappers now but as anything off the road for that long needs work. I will pull my finger out and get it registered again soon as it doesn't need much, but now I am thinking more seriously about megasquirting it. I think I like tinkering on it more than driving it anyway lol. But alas, now I have gotten into Subarus and BOOST so I have another car that takes all my time. I eventually want to put a turbo on the Triumph now, hence the EFI thoughts.
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Haha I live in Darwin now!
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Best of luck tracking it down. I spent ages improving my PI fuel plumbing chasing a misfire up high in the revs which I believed was leaning out. It turns out I had a dying coil and it was not fuel related at all! So i felt pretty stupid but at least i have really good fuel flow to the pump now lol.
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Hey guys, this is an interesting read.
If it were me I would be moving all the pumps and filters into the boot for a couple of reasons.
1, to it all out of the heat of the engine bay- it just seems really dangerous in such proximity to the engine/ electrics and
2, I reckon the long run of pipe could be causing a pressure drop to the CAV filter and pump mouth. From what I have read and experienced, the bosch pumps can push heaps but 'suck' at sucking. I would be keeping the pipe run to the HP pump as short, large and smooth as possible, the bosch will have no trouble pumping the fuel at reliable pressure op to the front of the car. I don't know if you've changed it or not but I reckon even that brass elbow could be causing cavitation due to the turbulent flow around the corner.
I did try setting up a CAV filter like Andreas at one point and it seemed like a really good idea, but I cant remember if it still functions as a filter set up that way. At least any induced air can then go back to tank with the over flow.
Cheers
Josh
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It just keeps looking better and better!
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I reckon you'll be impressed.
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That's awesome! I bet it goes well!
What pipe sizes did you end up using?
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Thanks for the tip, I will be putting them in soon.
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Has anyone got any first hand experience with the Phantom Grip unit in a triumph?
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Just checked out the revington VP2 style. Look really good and priced not too bad either. Thanks for the heads up!
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Thanks guys. I see I can get the King Tri-metal for a good price in Australia, Id feel more comfortable using them than the bearings I have. I'll buy a set when the engine builder lets me know if the crank needs a grind or not. I'll check out those Revington ones too.
Cheers
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Thanks Martin. I must say, my engine that I just pulled apart had either AE or Glacier (same thing?) and they didnt look too bad after a pretty hard life.
Anyway, here is a pic of the offending shell. Also of note is the discoloration of the face around the edges. I didn't think much of this but I have just read a piece somewhere that this could be the metals separating and the bearing may be unusable.
What do you reckon?
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I think Ive found the answer as to why no one uses the ACL bearings. While they do make some good tri-metal options they seem to only make triumph ones in the crap style. Oh well
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So after all this, did anyone end up trying the ACL bearings? They seem to get very good reviews in other circles, and I can get them easily in Australia.
I was very happy to get some VP2 main shells from England recently, only to find when I got them great cakes of rust on the backs. I talked to my engine builder and he said it would be ok to use some emery paper to sand it off. I then realized that some of the rust had actually built up around the edge and onto the bearing surface. I gave this a light sand also and tried to crape it off the chamfer with a blade. Only problem is I seem to have sanded through to the copper on one edge of a chamfer.
Have I just wrecked my bearing set?
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Thanks for that. Sounds like a MS2 is the way to go when I get to that point.
Cheers
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Thanks Andreas. I already run a wide band O2 and am pretty keen to go for a coil pack and crank triggered VR sensor to do away with any errors in the distributor drive. Logic tells me I should probably go for the Megasquirt as it seems to do all that the MJ does but with the option of fuel control later if I want to go that way.
Am I right in thinking the MS doesn't need to run an EDIS module any more?
I was also toying with the idea of going for a 123 tune distributor because it seems so easy but they are just so damn expensive.
Cheers
Josh
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Hey, Im in the process of rebuilding my engine and have been recommended to eventually take control of the ignition to reap the benefits.
Ive been looking into Megajolt but was wondering what the consensus is of going with Megasquirt and running it spark only just to have the option of going to full EFI later on.
Mega jolt from what I read seems fairly easy to set up, would MS be a similar proposition? (ignoring self building the MS for now). Also is it worth going MS just to not have to use EDIS6?
Also, I always though MS and MJ were from the same company, which doesn't seem to be the case. Were they once?
The reason for going spark only is I already have a well set up PI on the car which has been pretty reliable, and have read there are many benefits to be reaped from properly mapped ignition.
Cheers
Josh
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They look like a really nice way to go. I'll keep them in the memory bank!
Thanks
Josh's Mk1 Pi
in Members Cars and Project threads
Posted
Wow that's scary! I've not had any trouble with mine, though I did have to helicoil one of the stud threads. I have heard of hubs breaking but not trailing arms.