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About egret

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  1. When it's cold outside, so long as you keep some warmth in the room then you should be fine. Air starting at 0°C and 100% rh will drop to 50% rh when temperature rises to 10°C and by 15°C is below 40%. So as long as you can maintain room temp of over 15°C you should be fine with ventilating the room when it's cold out. Have a look at psychrometric charts (you move horizontally if you are just adding heat, not water, as you would with a radiator or electric heater).
  2. So how much extra power before an engine swap stops being a modification to improve efficiency and/or environmental performance?
  3. At the opposite end of the scale, this is dangerously close to being a toy rather than a tool. So at the risk of some rather sharp intakes of breath, I got one of these for Christmas: https://www.cultpens.com/i/q/CL54321/cleo-messograf-mechanical-pencil-07 A slightly heavy, odd shaped, but actually quite nice pencil with a vernier on the side. Also has capability to act as tyre tread gauge and info on machine thread sizes on the side. No idea on what the accuracy is, but for measuring the occasional item under about 90mm it's not bad. I dare say that for the price you could buy both a number pencils and a more accurate vernier!
  4. One argument for trigger wheel based systems I've heard is that the distributors are never truly square (or hexagonal?) therefore you are only ever setting the spark advance by the worst case cylinder. Trigger wheels allow you to set up properly equalised advance. Now I'm not certain how much these are likely to be out or how much that slight difference makes, but it seems like a sensible argument.
  5. Good question, while not a luddite, I'm not certain he's embraced the internet sufficiently to want a connection in there just yet. He doesn't currently own an internet connected device other than the household PC... There will be plenty of power so chucking in a network cable should be peanuts really. I like the idea of sealed ip rated light fittings, much easier for cleaning & gives a sense of purpose to a room.
  6. Difficult to convey on my phone last night, but I do have some idea of what I'm talking about with this! I'm a building services engineer by trade so have experience with similar problems (have designed systems for labs and archives) and have access to software to do condensation analysis, so I'm hopeful we won't end up with anything horrendous. I appreciate the help and advice, but I remain hopeful that the strategy of building tight and being able to control the ventilation will be the key to making a warm space work such that when it cools you won't have issues with condensation. The reason why I'm not sold on the open shed route is the idea that heating this just seems a bit wasteful. As John has alluded to, open sheds are never going to be particularly comfy all year round and that's why I'm thinking about going a different route. Anyway, what sort of layouts do you guys have? standing or seated benches, any good lighting tricks?
  7. I'm stressing air tightness of the construction so that ventilation can be controlled. Through windows and possibly an extract fan, but in general making it air tight doesn't prevent good levels of ventilation, just the unwanted stuff (that can bring moisture in). There should be minimal moisture ingress, basically latent gains off people, wet shoes and any brews. He's got a dehumidifier so that should deal with any moisture that gets in and I'm suggesting plaster board walls to give some humidity buffering capabilities to reduce condensation issues. I agree that it's tricky to combat condensation issues in what is likely to be an intermittently heated space, but my thought is that you build it airtight and can then control the ventilation levels rather than make it leaky and get what you're given. Although if people don't tend to have condensation issues with well ventilated spaced that they hear and let go cold then l'll have a re think
  8. My dad is looking at building a modest new workshop in his garden. This will be really light engineering stuff, a small lathe, mill and drill press. The main activities will be related to clock and watch repair, rather than the kind of activities undertaken on here, although I'm hoping to gain use for the odd bit of machining once my life allows work to resume on the car. My starting points are that good insulation and airtightness will help keep it comfortable and combat rusting of tools & that you can never have too much light. But I'm a great believer in learning from other peoples mistake where possible, so though here is a good place to ask about everyone's workshop experiences, good and bad. So fire away, what features of your working spaces work well, what doesn't, what would you want in an ideal world?
  9. Yep, bigger cutout than I'd envisaged when I eventually managed to have a look over a 1500. Thread with pictures: http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?8,1302658
  10. I've thought about this as I've a 1500 in my my 4 chassis. For the chassis clearance I'd thought of the possibility of making a copper gasket between the cast manifold and the tubular down pipes. This could have a slight triangular section to allow some clearance on the chassis flange. Or you just move things as best you can and have a good rattle on the overrun as the downpipes vibrate against the chassis.
  11. Wow! That's well beyond what I've ever got up to. I've seen people claim serious penetration depths into wood when PU glue is used properly so wetting surfaces probably encourages a good bond. The extent of my work has been smaller re-fairing of foils on boats and patching up the odd small hole. I've got some gelcoat repair work lined up this winter on my current boat, but again, just sorting out some minor dings, not even close to the stuff in your picture! Pics attached of foils from my last boat that I repaired if interested.
  12. It's PU glue isn't it? I've heard many good things about it. My top tip with fibreglass gelcoat or epoxy repairs is to use plastic (acetate) sheet and/or tape to cover the repair. Essentially making part of a mould. Works like you did with the plastic bag, but as it's got a bit more structure it allows better filling of concave sections. Saves a load of sanding and polishing after the job.
  13. They are part of the reason why I got a motorbike when I used to commute around Suffolk. You really had to be on your game (but then again there's no switching off on a bike or in a triumph) but it more than doubled the number of places you could overtake. As for the buggers gearing up to overtake just as you are passing, I can only once remember someone almost shoving me into a hedge. Although I did have the wife on the back at that point and she didn't like it one bit!
  14. The issue I have with these is that they seem to be pretty crude. Whilst I agree that as a general trend smoother driving = safer driving = lower risk to the insurance company, I don't agree that this is always the case. I've seen arguments put forward that the odd emergency stop (high G event) will not penalise drivers, but for a low mileage classic will that still hold true? Do you run the risk of getting super high premiums because every time you drive it you test the brakes and accelerate hard and this isn't averaged out by many miles of smooth motorway or town driving? Basically I'm not really happy with the idea of a black box judging how safe my driving is when it only measures position (and therefore speed), acceleration and times. If it doesn't tell me how it converts this data into a safety score then I'm suspicious, but if it does then it'd be open to gaming the system.
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