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Escadrille Ecosse

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Everything posted by Escadrille Ecosse

  1. !!! What a tiny little gearbox. Definitely worth looking at for a Spitfire.
  2. That's wet! Presumably you're not trying to pump it all out with the wee diaphragm pump Nice they're letting you do the job at anchor with the engine stopped. Even if the humidity is a bit over 100% Looking forward to the pics of the strip down. Why the need for the swap? Colin
  3. Nick my thought was that if you open up the wood just enough to get round the screw with either a wee mole grip or a threaded sleeve and lock bolt. With a core cutter the inside of the hole in the wood will be a bit rough and not good enough to make a structural glued repair so once the bolt is out you can remove the spoke and clean up the hole with a high speed cutter bit (router bit in a drill would do). Bigger than the hole you have core drilled but smaller than the extent of the slot for the spoke. Turn up a plug of wood to fit the hole snugly and glue in with the polyurethane glue - like the Pacman below. Then carve/sand the protruding bit to suit. If the screw is very seized in the spoke you can soak overnight with a few drops of phosphoric acid or even Coke at push (other carbonated vegetable flavour drinks are available) which will loosen things off. Given what has happened with this screw I would be tempted to take all the screws out to check/replace as necessary. Colin
  4. What a truly lovely steering wheel. As you say most have an unnecessarily large boss. It is obviously period and suspect it came from something expensive that used the Triumph steering gear as I have seen something like that before. An Italia, Gilbern, etc or maybe a Lotus Elite. Judging by the grain the rim will have been laminated by steaming and glueing around a circular former. Wonderful. Never get something like that nowadays, partly because un-reinforced wooden rimmed wheels are banned because they break up in an accident and you get impaled on that lovely slim boss whilst simultaneously having your wrists slit on the wood . However same argument applies about crumple zones, airbags and NCAP ratings. Short of cutting out a section of wood on the back removing the screw and then letting a new piece back in I'm not sure. I did this to repair one of our 160 year old sash windows. Different kind of loading though. What you could try is to cut away the wood round the outside of the screw just enough to get a grip on the screw itself. If you get a bit of thin wall brass/copper tube and make a very small core drill. When you have the screw out you can then open out the hole a bit more and glue in a wooden plug with a polyurethane type wood glue. When it's all dry drill a new hole for the screw and rebuild the wheel. Bit of effort but worth it for such a nice wheel.
  5. The standard 1200 was both portly and asthmatic, but that one has obviously been working out. Buff Nice to see an underdog stepping up.
  6. Excellent. That's a quick Herald!
  7. Well that must win a prize of some sort! Actually looks very interesting
  8. JohnD LOL. yes just that so came up with Escadrille Ecosse as a pun on the Ecurie Ecosse name and that it's a Spitfire. And rather cheekily got some of these made up for the car... They will be going back on the rebuilt car too. That is a cracking photo of the original EE transporter John. AH Sprite, Lotus 11 and is that a C Type at the back? After you posted that I had to go and have a rake in the cupboard to find this. Christmas 1965 from Santa. 4 years old. Start 'em young! Colin
  9. Spent today fitting up the bonnet hinges so I could open it to remove the air box and square things up on the car. Took far longer than expected and then followed that up with a few hours of fairly physical panel alignment. Pretty much nothing to see from all that effort so I thought I would add a bit more to the back story of the rebuild. When I originally rebuilt the car I cut off the off the outer ends of the front crossmember including the hinge brackets and replaced them with a very basic aluminium hinge arrangement that bolted directly onto the stub of the crossmember and the grille surround on the glassfibre bonnet. The front valance bolted directly to the bottom of the bonnet eliminating all the brackets for that as well. Incidentally the duct tape on the oil filter is there to make sure the ring of magnets used to help catch metal particles don't get knocked off. As part of the current rebuild I wanted to restore the original hinge and valance mount arrangement. Partly out of originality but also to give more clearance under the nose of the bonnet as my version rotates 'down' rather than 'up' as Triumph intended. This involved replacing the whole front crossmember as the remaining bit had been bent and it was easier to get everything lined up rather than trying to scarf bits on the end. While I was at it I added some swaged holes. Saves a trivial amount of weight but looks cool. Blame BiTurbo for that as I copied him! I recovered the original hinge chassis brackets, derusted in citric acid. Realised then that without the diagonal cross member bracing pieces the crossmember is too floppy. I didn't have these bits and the available replacement sections are the Mk4/1500 version and quite expensive. So plan B was to make my own out of some 90 degree exhaust manifold bends that I had left over from making the V8 manifolds for the Scimitar. Not only cheaper and lighter but look a bit 'technical' - and vaguely like the bracket mounts used on the Le Mans cars. This lot was all welded together as a unit before welding to the car. I ran out of CO2/Argon for the MIG while welding the brackets onto the crossmember so finished off with pure CO2 hence the rather proud welds. Won't do that again. Then etch primed and painted Colin
  10. Long time since I've worked on a GT6 but I'm pretty sure the rear quarter light seals are the like the door seals. The additional seals on the doors are not 'essential' but they make a huge difference to the noise and draughtproofing. Reading that over again I would say they are essential.
  11. That's not a good thing unless the outside tyre is already getting overloaded. Possibly that's why F1 went for below ground roll centres on the front a while back when the downforce wars were really hotting up and they were still trying to work out how to do it while gaming the rules with what was effectively rigid 'suspension'. I was unaware that F1 had done an about face on this. Although not really surprising as I pretty much lost whatever remaining interest I had in it around the millennium. Like you say it about the only thing in common with a car is that there is a round rubber covered object at each corner. RX8s are a bit sudden. S2000s too. I had forgotten about the Mumford link. So obvious when you see it but to come up with it from scratch! To quote Monty Python "there ain't half been some clever b#####ds". Colin
  12. Or 'Squadron' maybe as it is a Spitfire Colin
  13. This one also has the two bolt mount! For those who remember Meccano http://www.patbelford.com/toys/library/triumph-herald/image-12.html Colin
  14. Why would things be simple! Colin
  15. been there, got that T shirt mate! Roger. That looks very 'pro'. The brake lines are correct. Once the diff is back in and the spring lifted up there is enough space (just) for the hose. This one is not as nice as yours. On the later Spitfires the outboard end of the hose was moved from going directly into the brake cylinder to connect with a short length of hard pipe that went to the cylinder. Presumably Triumph eventually had the same thought as you regards all getting a bit tight in there. I did the same on my Mk1 because with the shortened uprights it really was too tight.
  16. I would think that the material and extrusion cost for the 0.5m of rail would be in the order of a couple of quid in reality as they'll have the kit already and they're just covering the marginal cost of production and keeping people busy. I don't have access to a machine shop any more, just the pillar drill in the garage so I'd be tempted to buy the cutter. Even at £20 a pocket if only making one rail, just to save the stress of that last operation after hours of work!
  17. I suspect John hit it on the head when he talked about saving time/money in assembly. A long bolt and one nut is quicker to assemble than two bolts and two nuts. As a guess it was more valuable on the sports models by this time as they were the larger production run and the idea was always to phase out the Herald in favour of the 1300. Although that took a lot longer than expected. On a practical note I have actually found that extracting the one long bolt is easier than trying to get out the shorter bolt because you can get square on to the end of the long bolt with a drift from the side to give it a good whack and with the wheel off there is plenty of space to wield the hammer. The short bolts you need to come in at an angle from underneath and there is a bit more dodging round the boot outriggers and floor. Less of an issue on a hoist or with a pit but not fun with the car on axle stands, outside, in the rain... I might have been particularly lucky/unlucky here as I've never found much of a corrosion problem with the long bolt and I must have stripped about 10 different cars over the years whereas the time I had to do the job on a Vitesse one of the short bolts was a right b#####d to get out. Extracted a diff from a scrapyard Herald chassis once as well and ended up chiselling out one side of the mounting. Fortunately there was no body tub in the way with that one.
  18. John, not sure what you mean here. The crush tube between the two rear diff mounts is there for the single long bolt but isn't there for the two single bolts arrangement. ie it was a later addition to speed up the mechanical assembly process. Sorry folks but this bit gets a bit image heavy as we present the evidence for the defence! I have a very early original workshop manual which shows the two bolt arrangement in the rear axle section and although the revised diff bridge is there it's not clear whether it's of a Spitfire or Herald chassis. A bit difficult to see but the drawing of the Herald and 1600 Vitesse chassis suggests there is no crush tube between the two rear mounts. Same with the Spitfire drawing in the same book. However the addendum for the Mk 3 definitely does show the crush tube between the rear mounts for the single bolt fitting Photo from the Robson book of the Mk2 Show chassis which would have been constructed for the launch clearly shows the crush tube between the mounts suggesting that there was a change on the Spitfire by the launch of the Mk2 in March 1965 at the latest. My late Mk1 came with the single bolt and it didn't look like the chassis had been replaced. The chassis drawing for the Mk1 GT6 shows the crush tube so again a single bolt on the sports model from July 1966. Here is where it gets interesting though. Mk1 2 Litre Vitesse And Mk2.... So it would seem that Triumph thought they made chassis for all Heralds and Vitesses for the two bolt mounting and all Spitfires from Mk2 at least and all GT6s with the single long bolt. Although of course knowing Triumph there's no absolute guarantee that this is what actually happened for any particular car when it left the factory or after 50 odd years of repairs and replacements. So perhaps we are all right on this one
  19. This is the point where the volume of the car seems to expand exponentially! As Nick says, getting serious
  20. It's never straightforward is it. Spent the morning trying (unsuccessfully) to line up the bonnet left/right across the car before giving up and going off to attack the hedge (again). Finally dawned on me that the inner arch was touching the air box! The box was made to fit the space under the old glassfibre bonnet with a fag paper of room to spare. I didn't make that bonnet but obviously the inner arch on that one was slightly narrower than it should have been. Does explain why the tyre would occasionally touch that side and not the other. Bit annoying though as I will now need to make another air box to fit the new hole!! Hey ho...
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