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Escadrille Ecosse

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About Escadrille Ecosse

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    Just passed my test!

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  1. Now why didn't we have those back in my 'cat burglaring' days
  2. Get well soon Roger. Not been where you are but I have experience with extended convalescence. As Miles says take it steady and you'll be back fine. Colin
  3. Great photos Phil, thanks. Explains the split con-rod arrangement. I like the bore-mic. 2.5mm allowable wear is something! I wondered about separating the crankcase from under the piston. I made model aeroplanes when I was young, powered by small 2-stroke compression ignition engines. Technically not diesels as the compression ratio was adjustable as well as the fueling. Fuel/air got sucked in through the crankcase with the fuel carrying the caster oil lubricant and a shot of neat ether to start them. Only 1cc capacity so a wee bit smaller than your monster. Pretty fast job done too.
  4. Like a normal engine only huuuge. Very impressive. Phil, I wondered about working on the engine when running. I worked with an ex-marine engineer many, many years ago who had served on turbine and diesel ships and he told me they were able to isolate one cylinder of the diesels to carry out major repairs if necessary. Not something you wanted to do but could be done in an emergency, like when broken down half way between Australia and South Africa!! He would have been talking about the 50's through to maybe the early 1970's so I'm not sure things would be the same now. When I did my Engineering degree we still had to learn how to calculate the energy cycles for steam (and gas) turbines in thermodynamics (impulse and reaction types!) because of the marine link. Other than the nuclear submarines are turbines still used in ships? Questions Is it a two stroke or a four stroke? What are the pistons made from? Do you have a really big ring compressor to get the rings in? If that's the conrod how tall is the engine and what is the stroke, must be enormous. Sure we'll all think of more to ask Colin
  5. !!! What a tiny little gearbox. Definitely worth looking at for a Spitfire.
  6. That's wet! Presumably you're not trying to pump it all out with the wee diaphragm pump Nice they're letting you do the job at anchor with the engine stopped. Even if the humidity is a bit over 100% Looking forward to the pics of the strip down. Why the need for the swap? Colin
  7. Impressive view, if a slightly depressing thought!
  8. Nick my thought was that if you open up the wood just enough to get round the screw with either a wee mole grip or a threaded sleeve and lock bolt. With a core cutter the inside of the hole in the wood will be a bit rough and not good enough to make a structural glued repair so once the bolt is out you can remove the spoke and clean up the hole with a high speed cutter bit (router bit in a drill would do). Bigger than the hole you have core drilled but smaller than the extent of the slot for the spoke. Turn up a plug of wood to fit the hole snugly and glue in with the polyurethane glue - like the Pacman below. Then carve/sand the protruding bit to suit. If the screw is very seized in the spoke you can soak overnight with a few drops of phosphoric acid or even Coke at push (other carbonated vegetable flavour drinks are available) which will loosen things off. Given what has happened with this screw I would be tempted to take all the screws out to check/replace as necessary. Colin
  9. What a truly lovely steering wheel. As you say most have an unnecessarily large boss. It is obviously period and suspect it came from something expensive that used the Triumph steering gear as I have seen something like that before. An Italia, Gilbern, etc or maybe a Lotus Elite. Judging by the grain the rim will have been laminated by steaming and glueing around a circular former. Wonderful. Never get something like that nowadays, partly because un-reinforced wooden rimmed wheels are banned because they break up in an accident and you get impaled on that lovely slim boss whilst simultaneously having your wrists slit on the wood . However same argument applies about crumple zones, airbags and NCAP ratings. Short of cutting out a section of wood on the back removing the screw and then letting a new piece back in I'm not sure. I did this to repair one of our 160 year old sash windows. Different kind of loading though. What you could try is to cut away the wood round the outside of the screw just enough to get a grip on the screw itself. If you get a bit of thin wall brass/copper tube and make a very small core drill. When you have the screw out you can then open out the hole a bit more and glue in a wooden plug with a polyurethane type wood glue. When it's all dry drill a new hole for the screw and rebuild the wheel. Bit of effort but worth it for such a nice wheel.
  10. The standard 1200 was both portly and asthmatic, but that one has obviously been working out. Buff Nice to see an underdog stepping up.
  11. Excellent. That's a quick Herald!
  12. Well that must win a prize of some sort! Actually looks very interesting
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