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Escadrille Ecosse

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  1. Got the repair done. Now just needs some paint and all putting back together...
  2. The 16 gauge arrived today and I've made up the repair patch for the main rail and the two reinforcing plates. I also discovered that the 'christmas tree' inside the main rail is slightly narrower than the inside of the rail so I also made up a small plate to make up the difference. Now I just have to weld it all together. Overhead, urgh. Photo of the various bits
  3. In the process of repairing the crack under the wine mount I've opened up the main rail and can see what's going on inside. The crack at the wishbone is because the bottom of the christmass tree shaped inner reinforcement was basically unsecured to the inside of the chassis rail at the bottom. It looks like there were four spot welds applied top and bottom to fix these into place. However the welds that were supposed to fix the bottom of this one only caught the very edge and must have broken off at some point. That allowed the rail to flex and crack along the bottom of the wishbone bracket. See the crack running just above the lower pencil line. You can also just make out the shame of the christmas tree inside where I've sanded away a bit of the paint. Having had a look inside now the news is good. There is very little corrosion inside and no sign of any holes where the outrigger joins the main rails. All I need to do here is weld the bottom of the 'christmas tree' to the bottom rail and weld in a patch. Got some 16g steel ordered for this and it'll be good to go. Onnce everything is finished I'll get the insides sprayed with wax to keep the corrosion at bay. The lack of corrosion is quite remarkable. The history of this car is a bit hazy as although it was bought in London in 1963 it was imported at some point before I got it as it was unregistered. So presumably it was exported early on to somewhere a bit drier although you wouldn't have thought so from the condition of the bodywork! Anyway, very fortunate. You can just make out the location of the crack at the outrigger, bottom left of the second photo where I've sanded away the paint forward of the weld. As for reinforcing this section, thank you everyone for your thoughts on this and I have come up with a plan along the lines of the Vitesse 'star' plate which will wrap round onto the bottom of the main rail and outrigger. I'm only going to put this on the bottom of each side as this is the direction the loads are applied. And hopefully it will look like it was made at the makers. Once the material has arrived I'll take some more pictures. Colin
  4. Was never particularly convinced about the effectiveness of the rear ARB either. Harder links may have helped but I found that playing about with the rear toe was far more effective.
  5. So. Took the front suspension off to get a better look and discovered a crack under the lower wishbone rear mount on one side. While I'm fixing that I'll have a think about how I could spread the load as John says away from that corner. I'll let you know how I get on once I've got on as it were!
  6. John I'm sure if you took the remains of your old collector along to one of the custom exhaust fabrication places they could make you a copy. Some are obviously better than others but a bit of looking around will probably pay off as the younger enthusiasts are more than happy to share their experiences of these people. Custom Creations (Falkirk) and a bit far away for you admitedly made a very nice set of replacement manifolds for my Reliant Scimitar V8 conversion when my original mild steel ones finally fell apart.
  7. Thanks gents for the replies. Like you say I'm concerned about simply moving the problem somewhere else. The cracks are very small, maybe about 5mm either side of the bend in the rail. There's no evidence of any bulging to suggest corrosion inside the rails and looking inside the outriggers everything is clean so I'm reasonably confident that is ok. Maybe the answer for now is to just weld it back up and keep an eye on it. Then if they reappear I get a bit more radical with some internal reinforcement. Certainly save a lot more dismantling at the moment as I'm just keen to get the car back on the road for next year.
  8. I am in the process of rebuilding my Mk1 sprint/hillclimb car and have found a small crack on the main rails on the bottom outside corner just in front of the front outrigger. There's a crack on each side of the car in exactly the same place at the toe of the weld. The rest of the chassis and outriggers are in excellent condition so I'm reluctant to start cutting too much off so I wondering about options. This is probably the most highly stressed point of the whole chassis given that the car has a full cage and stiff suspension so in many ways it's not surprising. Photo of the car at Harewood shows the sort of twisting loads. Do I just weld it back up? or add a small external reinforcement between the outrigger and the chassis rail at that point? I don't want to start adding cage bracing etc as that's just going to open a whole new can of worms and ultimately I'm looking at making the car more road oriented. Thoughts appreciated
  9. Basic geometry, taking their time and a bit of labour. It's not magic.
  10. Hi Pete Others out there with a lot more experience than me I'm sure but I can give you some of my thoughts. In my experience as long as you don't go daft the 1300 has pretty decent mid range almost whatever you do (more on that later). So, unless you are going to go for a significalty more radical cam/carb arrangement I would be careful about doing too much on the inlet side or you can make things worse, or at the very least waste your hard earned time/money. I would suggest matching the ports to the inlet manifold/gasket and tidying them up along the length to the valves but don't remove much more metal than needed to keep things parallel along the length. The larger valves probably won't make a lot of difference either way at this stage but if you are getting them done then go for the larger size and get them flowed a bit too. I would tend to stick with the 1300 head rather than faffing about with the 1500 but maybe talk to whoever is doing your head to see which works out cheaper. I would suggest that until you've decided on your cam there is no point getting major head work done or chances are you'll have to do it again later. Again at this point until you decide on what cam/carb you plan on running I wouldn't go much beyond the stock CR of 9.0 unless you spend some time and effort on the ignition side. If you are still running the Delco destributor with points it's very hard to keep the thing on song. With what you're doing, new standard springs are probably fine but you'll want slightly stronger/double springs when you go for a more radical cam. Exhaust ports and exhaust manifold should also be matched or at least and step between the two should have the exhaust side larger than the head side. The mounting studs should be good enough to keep this matched. The inlet is more critical but the pins in the head do a good job for this. I assume you know how to match the ports using a gasket? If not I'm sure there are guides on you tube. I learned how to do this sort of thing when all we had was books! If you are rebuilding the head and replacing the valves then you need to replace the rocker gear as well or worn rocker tips will wreck the top of your nice new valve stems. If you haven't done so already I also recommend that you fit the external oil feed to you valve gear for the same reason. Remember to block off the oilway on either side of the head gasket at the same time. The best off the shelf exhaust manifold for the Spitfire is im my opinion the Bell one from the TSSC. This is because it is the only one I've seen where the arrangement of the secondaries allows the primaries from cylinders 1 and 4 to be approximately the same length. But if you got it then what the heck eh! Points and condenser are OK is but as the biggest improvement you can make is keeping the ignition timing constant then I would strongly recommend that at the very least you go for one of the electronic systems that fit in the existing distributor. I've used the Aldon Ignitor on various cars for years and never had a problem with them. I would also suggest that you replace the timing chain and tensioner to help reduce distributor scatter. My Mk1 Spitfire currently runs a modified small bearing 1300 engine that I built myself for historic competition. Balanced and polished crank and rods, standard pistons (yep that's right). Larger inlet valves, head and valves lightly flowed. Bronze valve guides. CR is 9.75:1. Runs a Newman race cam 40-80 80-40, 300 degree duration with standard ratio roller rockers and duplex chain. Super lightweight alloy flywheel and 6.5" paddle clutch. Carburation is by twin 40 Webers. Ignition is by a Lucas 25D6 distributor (for the mechanical tacho drive) into which I have fitted the topworks of a 25D4 so I've got the right number of sparks! Aldon Ignitor ignition and 12V coil. I realise that all rolling roads are different and with varying degrees of exageration built in but with this setup I got an estimated 126hp at the flywheel at 7000 rpm. Although the engine just keeps revving, with the build I have I've set 7200 rpm on the rev limiter. Engine will idle reasonably happily at 900-1000 rpm. I previously ran the car on a Kent Cams TH6 which has a 290 duration and found the car very 'cammy' not really wanting to do much until about 3800-4000 rpm. With the Newman cam there is vastly more mid range and it will start pulling hard from about 3000 whilst still being pretty docile as long as the revs are above about 1500 rpm. Top end was much the same with either cam but the Kent seemed much more sensitive to fueling/ignition in the mid range. Pootling around in traffic with the Newman cam isn't really a problem (except the paddle clutch being a bit sharp) although after a while the engine will go excessively rich because of the Webers overfueling at low rpm. On a 4.55 diff and stripped out interior the performance is 'vivid' but maybe a bit over the top for what you want!! I guess the point I'm trying to make is that even with what is not far off a full race spec the 1300 engine still has decent mid range torque and is a very driveable little engine given it's almost 70 years old as a design.
  11. Hi Mark Does look like what I remember as the Tite-a-turn I think I have a few pictures but will have to scan them in as all this was done in the days of 'real film' before the thought of having a phone on your camera was as daft has having a torch on it. What would have been the point anyway as the wire would have been too short! Short sequence of me sprinting the car in the rain. Paddock bend at Kames, Muirkirk south of Glasgow around 1998-2000. Mk3 bumpers as I couldn't find any Mk 2 ones when I built the car! Just noticed that you can just see the ends of the rear anti-roll bar links in front of the back wheels in a couple of the pics. And the thin front anti roll bar too. Never liked the handling with the late thicker one.
  12. Apologies Nick. The title should have included FOR SALE. So bothered about uploading the photos I forgot 'da rules'
  13. Clearing out my garage to give some space for the long awaited Spitfire rebuild and I have found a set of triple SU inlet manifolds that John Thomason had cast back in the 1990s. They are partly machined but I ran out of time and never finished the job before moving on to other things and now the car for which they were intended is long gone. Anyone on Sideways interested before I put them on ebay?
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