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About rustbuckit2011

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    Modding. Everything.

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  1. rustbuckit2011

    Re positioning a 6 pot

    Ah Aha ! Thanks mate, that is terrific!
  2. rustbuckit2011

    Re positioning a 6 pot

    That is a terrific thread- it's a killer that the pics are missing from the beginning-- especially those about bearing races being built into rotoflex wishbones. Do these pics live on in another thread? I'd love to do the same
  3. rustbuckit2011

    Spitfire Speedo issue

    Err.. Why dont you just fit the spare? That IS what it is for isnt it?
  4. rustbuckit2011

    Diff options

    You could go rotoflex, run cv's and use any r160 diff, but I dont know if it would end up cheaper than having one built unfortunately. The datsun conversion is fabulous, but the big downfall for swing axle cars is needing to find a diff that is from a car nearly as old as the triumph and probably more likely to have been thrashed harder! You also have the option of JohnD's lower arms, mgf (or perhaps better mgtf) rear uprights, subaru diff conversion and cv axles. This is getting into a lot of fabrication and cash. I reckon Id be inclined to put another 3.89 in there while I collected the parts for a conversion on the bench. You may have more luck finding the right datsun diff for the swing sping conversion in Europe- there were a few 510's running around Lisbon when I was there a month ago
  5. rustbuckit2011

    Diff options

  6. rustbuckit2011

    Diff options

    Oh, you want to join the R160 Datsun Diff with the bolt in Stubs club. I've all the info you could possibly want, but a search on here (or google} will bring it all up as there is LOADS on it now. Where are you located? I have the top and spring plates on the shelf that you can have for what they cost me, but I've the blueprints for both if you want a go at fabbing your own. The backplate is a little more difficult- I've detailed the measurements in a photographic album on my Facebook page if you click on my link in the signature (I'll post these at some point). I really urge you to make your own backplate out of steel rather than look at expensive options. It is truly easy peasy if you can weld/cut/drill. Kits are available- I've seen these advertised recently- maybe on the triumphexp.com forums- they are not cheap. Doing the conversion (even if you make the vast majority of it) can be expensive. You need to shorten the propshaft, make uj adapters, 3 diff plates, bolts, brass fittings, tubes for venting etc
  7. rustbuckit2011


    Well- heres something interesting. I work as an actor in NZ and went for a part in this- got down to the last 2 (the big quiet youngish aussie guy got it instead... bastard.) Anyway, I also work in production as a location assist- so in this shot I am actually standing behind the camera chatting to the owner- an old chap named Steve. Yes- it is a 2500. He still has it as he told me where he lives and I see it up his driveway when I drive past. The colour is a shade of ferrari red he had had painted about 5 years ago. In the same sequence of shots at this location you may see my herald coupe parked up a driveway in the background. Arlo
  8. rustbuckit2011

    Rover 100 Axle Length

    YOU BLOODY LEGEND! Thanks Nick! That's the hard bit sorted then. I'll look through some axles I have in storage tomorrow arvo and see what comes close. Cheers,, Arlo
  9. rustbuckit2011

    Rover 100 Axle Length

    Thanks Nick,, Im quite glad to hear that the travel within the joint is shortest at droop- and longest at horizontal. I suspected as much, but 'plunge' always sounds like it is going in to me! The hard part is finding shafts that are short enough- as long as there is some clearance (5mm?) from the end of the inside of the joint at horizontal it sounds like something may work. Which means that even the longest shaft I have on the shelf, from a Starlet, may still be a contender. I'll pull off an inner joint from an mx-5 next time I am at the wreckers and measure the plunge. A few Nissans and vans use a joint that is fairly similar which Ill take a look at.
  10. rustbuckit2011

    Rover 100 Axle Length

    Brace yourself- These are my musings - but I cant test any of it until I have my bench chassis rig set up- or know the bare shaft length of the R100- which I cannot for the life of me find! First off- I've a question about Plunge. As the wheel moves through it's range of motion in rotoflex, is the axle more likely to move away from the diff (get longer) or towards it (get shorter)? Ideally the shaft would sit somewhere in the middle of the inner joint- but if it doesn't - is it better to be at rest position closer to wheel side or diff side? C.v shaft lengths off the net are no good really. It is the bare shaft length that is important and that means pulling them out and to bits! 21 Gap Subaru inner joints (early legacy, imprezza) will fit *Some* Nissan Micra/March k11 19 spline (internal) outer cv Nissan Micra/March K12 Nissan Note E11 80's Ford Laser 22 Gap Subaru (Forrester, Imprezza) inner joints will fit- Nissan march k11 (post 2000ish) some 19 spline (internal) outer cv, some 22 spline (internal) outer cv. Mazda 323 BF, Ford Laser 90s, Mx5 NA etc 22 spline (internal) outer cv. Nissan Sentra N14, N15, Pulsar etc. 23 spline (internal) outer cv. Mitsubishi Mirage 90's 23 Gap Subaru inner joints will fit- Most 90/00 Corollas, Starlets and their derivatives. Many Mitsubishi- galant, lancer etc Hubs and bearings that fit machined Rotoflex uprights- (68mm OD Bearing) Nissan March K11 Toyota Starlet EP91 et al, MGF, R100 etc One of the Renaults- I'm not sure which. Sooooo, There are some combinations that fit together, but their usability is as yet untested as I HAVEN'T TESTED THE LENGTH FITTED- it just looks close to my roto shaft +/- 3cm as the suby diff is narrower UNTESTED AS OF YET!! 1) Nissan March/Micra K11 1L shaft and 19 spline outer Cv + 21 spline Subaru inner. These do fit and the bearing would just be machined into the rotoflex upright like the mgf one. Obviously the pcd is 4x100 so you'd need to re-drill. The big problem is this- the shaft is from a 997cc engined car. That may be okay for a herald 1200, but you only really fit a suby diff if you are going to put power through it- I just don't know if it is up to the job on anything with torque. 2) Nissan Micra/March 1.3L shaft and 22 spline outer Cv + 22 spline Subaru inner. Outer CV is beefier than the 1L cars (same size as mgf one). Bearing is the same (68mm OD). This all looks pretty promising, unfortunately however the 1.3 version of the car is a fair bit rarer than the 997cc and I don't have one to test (yet). Is the 1.3 axle up to the job? 3) Mazda 323 BF shaft + 22 spline Subaru inner. I think these are like the fiesta, Focus etc- Mazda and Ford badge engineered cars. They are 22 splines both inner and outer, so they fit into the Nissan March 1.3 Outer Cv and probably the MGF too. There are 1.3, 1.6 and 1.8 versions of the car that use the same inner Cv's including Auto and Manual- There are all kinds of lengths. The one I have is from a manual- it is approximately 10mm shorter than the Micra/March shaft and very beefy. It will be up to the job it the length is good. 4) Nissan Sentra B13, N14 (probably others) The inner side of the bare shaft is 22 spline the outer is 23 spline. Flipped over, it plugs into the Subaru 22 spline inner joint and into a 23 spline Toyota Starlet outer Cv. Again 4x100 pcd. Again, bearing is much the same as mgf one (68mm OD). Outer cv is beefy, as is the shaft. I think there is something in this version as the parts are so plentiful and cheap. There is a small range of shaft lengths with engine capacity and transmission. 5) Toyota shaft? Lot's of these through the 90's had both 23 spline inner and outer joints. The Starlet one I have is obviously too long, but I'm betting there is a Corolla (probably Auto) that will work using the Subaru 23 spline Inner joint (later imprezza, forrester) and the Starlet outer. I know it is out there somewhere. There is a chap on the net called SuperDave http://wordpress.suberdave.com/?page_id=275 He makes inner c.v conversion parts for Datsuns, Subaru's by swapping in custom races- this is an interesting option. For standard diff Rotoflex cars I think there might be something in using Mx-5 inner joints with simple adaptors to the triumph companion flange, and then a mazda 323/familia/ford shaft to Nissan Micra/March k11 or MGF outer Cv's. Might be easier than sourcing Volvo bits. Has anyone heard of anyone using those inner joints? More as it happens!
  11. rustbuckit2011

    Diff cover floor re-make.

    Good grief! This is awe inducing stuff!
  12. rustbuckit2011

    Photobucket Suicide.....

    I think I have stumbled across a fix to this on another forum- it would be good to see some of the threads on here revived- I quote- Post a reply 1 post • Page 1 of 1 Photobucket broken images fix that is working by KiwiBirkin » Wed Sep 06, 2017 8:06 pm Hi all I a fix has been found for the broken Photobucket images, this is currently working on lots of forums. All you need to do is add ~original to the end of the link code that you copied and your PB pics will 3rd party host....for now anyway. Original broken image Im adding this to the end (it does not need to be in bold I have done this to highlight the txt to add)http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu32 ... d02402.jpg~original This is the broken image working You will need to search your posts and fix up images you want others to see, please try and fix up as much as you can through your old posts to restore us back to what we had. Cheers Stephen Why walk when you can accelerate through life in a 7..... KiwiBirkin Site Admin Posts: 3036 Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2009 8:09 am Location: Christchurch
  13. rustbuckit2011

    Newer rear suspension wishbones

    Ah aha! Clever wee device that Matt- easier than bodywork- Cheers!
  14. rustbuckit2011

    Newer rear suspension wishbones

    Hells teeth, that is great info- thanks guys much appreciated. I'll let you know how I get on. Spit131- those adjusters look well made, but Im afraid for the life of me I just cant work out where you fit them- Do they fit on the pull lever, or between the outer cable arm and its respective mounting point changing the angle at which the cables lead from? If its on the pull lever then I guess having the pivot point further out makes your handbrake pretty effective to boot I think I'll need to have a play with the parts and see about clearances on the herald body- I dont think it's quite as tight as on the spit which should make life easier!
  15. rustbuckit2011

    Newer rear suspension wishbones

    Im just curious to know whether its worth me bothering trying to find and fit the roto bracket handbrake guides to my rotoflex and discs conversion on a herald chassis. I know that the effects of camber change on the h.b cable when used with the chassis mounted brackets wreaks havoc with the standard roto drums - Im wondering if mgf calipers (both the calipers themselves and their orientation on the link) are a little more forgiving Someone out there must have tried it- perhaps it deserves it's own thread