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Triumph-V8

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Everything posted by Triumph-V8

  1. Original rod with off centric small end, right TR6 piston, left MAZDA piston.
  2. Piston is the BBY type, Small end must be modified to accept the smaller gudgeon pin from VW. Also rod it too wide so piston must be milled 2mm on each side or rod must be milled smaller (not recommended) Works nice with the MaxspeedingRods. All in all I have 5 friends driving that. If you want it perfect you may want to make new small end off centric to get a longer rod working length and remove a bit from the top of the piston. If the block is recessed you have to mill the 0,7mm off to get a clean surface. Thats it! Go on and build a nice engine! Should you want to go further I have a set of MAZDA pistons in 77.75 and one in 78mm to sell.
  3. Very interesting to read about this! Did see the posts pretty late as I solved these problems some years ago. I did not have much problems with MegaSquirt 1 and the V8, but the 6-cylinder TR6 with MS2 made me feel it was not perfect. First I had to learn that the advertised initial map reading did not happen. Whatever I did, the MS started with "100" baro. Second was fitting 2nd Baro in the proto area and connected it. Now the data are read correctly but MSs conclusion was still wrong. Fiddeling with the setup curves did not give the results I expected. Right now I am fooling the MS telling her I have a custom baro and tweak the baro curve that it fits. On normal altitude here I prepared several 2nd baro curves to test in the hills which all did no change in fuel amount at this altitude here but are different steep at low air pressure. I simply made some tests in the alps, choose the best curve and now I am happy....... My MS2 went lean in the Alps in the beginning simply because the baro did see only "80" at full load instead of "100" at home. So the 80 fuel amount over the rpm range was poor and so engine runs lean when correction range of EGO was reached.
  4. Liners are in the range of 77.75mm outside..... It is a good idea to press them out and fit MAZDA Pistons in that size......
  5. Great job! Will be nice power increase because original is so ugly!
  6. I found the position of the sensor to the trigger wheel not critical. Also setting in MS2 the VR input potis was not critical. But I had to play with the filtering. Without that the engine did idle but when running frióm time to time lost the signal. At the V8 I have the old board and connect VR via EDIS. That worked without trouble just from the beginning
  7. Great job! Manufactured parts look nice and clean!
  8. If you want to drive a coil directly you need the BIP373. On the cooling board only one is fitted and there is no space for more. The 3 other channels come from the LEDs that drive three other BIPs They must be fitted somewhere where they can dissipate the heat. With the 4 channels you can drive the V8 in wasted spark mode.
  9. Easiest way is the EDIS8 and bolting the 36-1 wheel. You have an independent ignition and that is easier to set. You can stay with the setting of points of the MS2. Otherwise you will have to fit three additional coil drivers to MS2 and fiddle all out properly that it will run and find another place for triggering. The other end of the crank is the flywheel and I think it is a lot of work to establish triggering there. Ans other place will be affected by toothed gear, chains or spanners that will make the triggering not that precise. Why do you want to have more work than necessary? Did you check the signal for the need of filtering? Maybe that could be easiest solution. You can log for some time and if you get the problem you can analyse what is the reason.
  10. Oh yes, the split pin! I forgot. What about putting the hub in the lathe and setting the flange for the outer bearing 2mm to the inside that the outer bearing sits 2mm deeper in the hub? I see the problem of the space between flange for the rim and caliper. Normally I would try to have 5mm space between rotating and standing parts. So whereever the space is generated it is not nice, even cutting the flange at the outside is weakening a critical area. So I would do a little bit at several positions and hope to stay in the safe area with that.
  11. I would shim the stub axle towards the inner wheel bearing Maybe 2mm will do no harm and give clerance towards the vertical joint. Hopefully the outset of 2mm will clear the wheel under the wheelarch. Than I would mill the spacers from 10 to 6mm. The remaining clearance will be enough. I did the same needed 12mm from calculation and did 11. New brake pads still fit! Than I would make the spacers under caliper precisely to center the caliper. This will add clearance of 2mm to front of the hub. We also had trouble with the TR6 swap. Things became pretty narrow with steel rims, no problems with wire or alloys. Some added spacers to clear between rim and caliper with steel rims. That was also a problem with the vented disc set from EBC with 20mm discs. All of the spacers had trouble with the hole for the brake fluid. It was not drilled where the outlet in the caliper was and in some cases the canal gasket did not fit properly. In one case the caliper had the wrong depth for this gasket. Should be 0.9mm and was 2.1mm!
  12. Yes, cutted out of a 2.5mm steel plate and than grinded to fit
  13. There are several things that must be taken into account. If you want to participate in competition you need an engine that is on a level to compete with others, otherwise its no fun. If the competition has rules it is essential to read them first. Old Group 2 regulations for example will not allow to swap rods and crank and also the head must be original. If you aim for power with a limited budget you must do the things that will give best performance for money. With no doubt that are single inlet runners for each cylinder and a wilder cam. The other thing is more displacement, that is the easiest way and keeps low end torque. It is not advantageous to build a sports engine on the twin carbs because the things become nasty from a 280 degree cam on. The PI system offers 15 BHP over the SUs without disadvantages and is a must on a sporty engines like EFI or Weber DCOE or similar. So do not jump from one extreme to the other and leave mountain territory and now fiddle on the ground what is boring. Its like drinking: Half full is wasted money! We had several British machineries that bored out the block to 77mm without additional price. The VW piston is 30 Euro and from that I would recommend to do that first especially because the stock pistons are already at the limit. So now good luck and keep us informed about the results!
  14. Ford Sierra discs on the TR6, all custom made spacers are EN7075 milled to 1mm thick bolts are grade 8 pins for pads custom made 1/4"
  15. Would agree to that, the TR6 with proper fuelling and balanced well, maybe combined with a light flywheel, becomes a totally different car even with a relatively mild cam with 290 degrees. It likes to rev very free and so you touch the 6000 quite often because it sounds nice and the engine likes that. Its fun...... But I would never hold the engine at 6500 on the straight, the engine would do that but something inside tells me that it is not good for that engine. Torsions of the crank will be affected not only at the front end by the damper but also at the rear end what normaly is fixed by the flywheel. If flywheel and clutch is much lighter it might also have influence on the torsion. Anyway these special cranks are so expensive that they boost every engine price and from that it will be a late stage in engine preparation.
  16. I see a sensor locating problem, too but rising to 18AFR is a bit high for the reason of bad location. A difference of lets say 40 degrees air temp just from my feeling will not be enough to cause such problems. My air temp is taken in the original PI system just after the air filter besides radiator and before the air tube to collector. The other problems with oil pressure and water temp are not EFI related and should be solved before going on. Did not read the whole thread why is there no AFR targeting and EGO control employed?
  17. Gasket maybe Elmeso-Reban custom made for about 140 Euros. They have a website. Springs must suit the cam. If they make the cam fail they bound what will eat the top of lobe or will eat the lobe from bad oiling what happens at (long) idle. To be on the safe side a race engine should not idle much or for a longer time. The beding in cam and followers is the main process for long life. Would take the springs recommended for the cam, run cam in with recommended process for 20 minutes use ZDDP and that is what we can do. A interesting idea might be with hard springs to bed in with soft springs avoiding high revs ans when engine is ready to use swap the springs to the race springs.
  18. I would take the risk! My TR6 has done more than 20.000 Km and reved up to 7000 where I placed the limiter. Meanwhile I stepped back to 6500 but that is a limit I will touch from time to time. It is just the the cam with 290 degrees and the EFI that provides Lambda 0.87 all the way under full load. The crank is billet EN46 and if tuftrided and with pretty much less weight from piston and rod it will make the job (some time). The VW pistons are not forged but with the smaller rings suitable for high revs. They might be the limiting factor although I see the 20m/sec limit became a bit weak during the last years. It is pushed to around 24m/sec. Anyway we have very short rods and from that very high acceleration of the piston. That is not nice but there ist not much room to improve. Next urgent step would be longer rods and shorter pistons but Maxspeedingrods would do them only if I take three sets. The result and spent money might not be a perfect relation. So I see the risks as pointed out above but would give it a try but be aware all must be perfect, its mountain territory. Cam could be Kent 300 degree or a bit beyond. Race engines are always at the limit, otherwise everybody could do the same........ PI can feed that engine but I would calculate some problems due to less manifold pressure from the cam. Maybe the speed density with the diaphragm must be swapped to alpha/n like Kastner explained on his pages. The metering is done by a curved disc that rotates with opening the throttles. Both springs inside the MU must meet the cam and the envisaged cam is far away from CP cam and will need different springs to be set properly. Also these cams cause pulsations at various revs that affect metering badly. It is some try and error, it may be easy to solve but may also require deep modifications.
  19. Maybe that is because there are 10 different engines. The more compression you have or the better the filling of combustion chamber is, the more difficult it becomes to ignite the mixture. Also the spark plugs play a role, the smaller the middle electrode is the easier the spark can jump. So turbo engines require smaler gaps and smaller middle electrodes. Unfortunately they burn faster so they are made from expensive material to last a little bit longer. The bigger the gap the better is the starting of the ignition, but only if the spark jumps! So its an individual choice, I would make the gap as large as possible. I can see that in Megasquirt Log when AFR rises for a very short time. In that case a spark did not fire the cylinder. If that can not be detected (and this will happen under high load and high revs and will not be a full misfire of one cylinder) you can not hear it and you often do not feel that. Best is to increase with a normal TR6 engine to 0.8mm or 0.9mm if at all. As it does no harm I would stay close to 0.7mm unless you know what you are doing. The expensive plugs do not help much on a normal road car, they simply cost more money. I would evaluate the spark plugs with special side electrodes, some have three or more of them. They are based on the theory that good fuel mixture will have less resistance and so the plug "sees" where the best area is to fire the spark and meet a good mixture to ignite the cylinder filling.
  20. AFR only makes sense in combination with rpm and vacuum or tps signal. Megajolt has both rpm and vacuum to set ignition timing. It would be interesting to log the afr with it, anyway it does not help that much because there is no mapping in Megajolt to find the fuel amount. It will need some interpretation to translate the logged data to a SU carb or a WBER DCOE.
  21. It is very bad to fiddle with the mass of a rubber/steel damper. Unfortunately the crank does not break immedeately and from that people who did so feel proud for their clever idea. Both TR4 and TR6 have resonant frequencies that can kill the crank if the engine is driven longer at those revs. TR4 is better because the frequency is quite high and a normal engine does not touch that limit often. TR6 needs a working damper and so I would go for triggerwheels.co.uk and buy such a wheel
  22. Megasquirt is a nice and fairly priced system. In most cases even the MS1 is fully okay. It is about 180 USD. As many clever people of this forum use Megasquirt we can rely on their experience. Only reason for me to choose another system would be to have a clubmate or friend at hand who will help and has experience with another system. I could read in several forum that a complete swap to injection was done below 500 Euros. My swap to MS2 with fuel and ignition was about 1500 Euros with a lot of nice parts on my Triumph TR6. That is just the price a modern ECU alone may cost from other parties.
  23. GT6MK3 am I right: You paid for an item you never got and had a lot of trouble trying to make him deliver the parts and still would give him a forum where he can fool other people like one of the last who was simonjrwinter with the diff in the Register Forum? That would give a very bad reputation to this forum in my opinion. That is crazy! People must be warned instead not to rely on such people and prevented to give him money. The only way if somebody feels the need to buy those items is directly out of the trunk of his rotten Jaguar in which he lives............
  24. To be honest I was one of those who made him bring out his Tourettes. One point was that he based his tuning results on a dyno sheet with a wheel loss of a about 50Kw of the wheel to get a pretty high BHP at the crank. A very easy job indicating that somebody pulled the brakes when running out after the measurement. This gives a higher loss reading and pushes the crank BHP. The other thing was that I met him at Stoneleigh with a pretty poor modified TR6 head. Scratches on the valve seats and a bit of grinding in the combustion chamber didn't make that item a modified tuning head. More scrap than ready to use. Last point where he was upset was when Chris at TR-Freunde Forum found out that his diagrams looked pretty similar to a similation software he knows and he admitted that several flow sheets have not been made on the bench but are simply simulations with the software. And a last point where he was a upset was that Chris reported Bastuck had told him he was travelling to France to get outstanding money from GT and met him at the coast in a sandy hole and did not get any money. So he is not far away, travelling in BRD, Belgium and Netherlands and from time to time he pops up in GB like I met him at Stoneleigh and makes some business leaving burned soil as the last I know with the TR6 V8 driver at the Register forum for whom he tried to make a rear diff and the got trouble and if I understood correct, the diff was not okay and/or not passed back to him.
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