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About Triumph-V8

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    Rover V8 in the Triumph TR6
    Megasquirt 2 with Innovate LC1

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  1. Liners are in the range of 77.75mm outside..... It is a good idea to press them out and fit MAZDA Pistons in that size......
  2. Great job! Will be nice power increase because original is so ugly!
  3. I found the position of the sensor to the trigger wheel not critical. Also setting in MS2 the VR input potis was not critical. But I had to play with the filtering. Without that the engine did idle but when running frióm time to time lost the signal. At the V8 I have the old board and connect VR via EDIS. That worked without trouble just from the beginning
  4. Great job! Manufactured parts look nice and clean!
  5. If you want to drive a coil directly you need the BIP373. On the cooling board only one is fitted and there is no space for more. The 3 other channels come from the LEDs that drive three other BIPs They must be fitted somewhere where they can dissipate the heat. With the 4 channels you can drive the V8 in wasted spark mode.
  6. Easiest way is the EDIS8 and bolting the 36-1 wheel. You have an independent ignition and that is easier to set. You can stay with the setting of points of the MS2. Otherwise you will have to fit three additional coil drivers to MS2 and fiddle all out properly that it will run and find another place for triggering. The other end of the crank is the flywheel and I think it is a lot of work to establish triggering there. Ans other place will be affected by toothed gear, chains or spanners that will make the triggering not that precise. Why do you want to have more work than necessary? Did you check the signal for the need of filtering? Maybe that could be easiest solution. You can log for some time and if you get the problem you can analyse what is the reason.
  7. Oh yes, the split pin! I forgot. What about putting the hub in the lathe and setting the flange for the outer bearing 2mm to the inside that the outer bearing sits 2mm deeper in the hub? I see the problem of the space between flange for the rim and caliper. Normally I would try to have 5mm space between rotating and standing parts. So whereever the space is generated it is not nice, even cutting the flange at the outside is weakening a critical area. So I would do a little bit at several positions and hope to stay in the safe area with that.
  8. I would shim the stub axle towards the inner wheel bearing Maybe 2mm will do no harm and give clerance towards the vertical joint. Hopefully the outset of 2mm will clear the wheel under the wheelarch. Than I would mill the spacers from 10 to 6mm. The remaining clearance will be enough. I did the same needed 12mm from calculation and did 11. New brake pads still fit! Than I would make the spacers under caliper precisely to center the caliper. This will add clearance of 2mm to front of the hub. We also had trouble with the TR6 swap. Things became pretty narrow with steel rims, no problems with wire or alloys. Some added spacers to clear between rim and caliper with steel rims. That was also a problem with the vented disc set from EBC with 20mm discs. All of the spacers had trouble with the hole for the brake fluid. It was not drilled where the outlet in the caliper was and in some cases the canal gasket did not fit properly. In one case the caliper had the wrong depth for this gasket. Should be 0.9mm and was 2.1mm!
  9. Yes, cutted out of a 2.5mm steel plate and than grinded to fit
  10. There are several things that must be taken into account. If you want to participate in competition you need an engine that is on a level to compete with others, otherwise its no fun. If the competition has rules it is essential to read them first. Old Group 2 regulations for example will not allow to swap rods and crank and also the head must be original. If you aim for power with a limited budget you must do the things that will give best performance for money. With no doubt that are single inlet runners for each cylinder and a wilder cam. The other thing is more displacement, that is the easiest way and keeps low end torque. It is not advantageous to build a sports engine on the twin carbs because the things become nasty from a 280 degree cam on. The PI system offers 15 BHP over the SUs without disadvantages and is a must on a sporty engines like EFI or Weber DCOE or similar. So do not jump from one extreme to the other and leave mountain territory and now fiddle on the ground what is boring. Its like drinking: Half full is wasted money! We had several British machineries that bored out the block to 77mm without additional price. The VW piston is 30 Euro and from that I would recommend to do that first especially because the stock pistons are already at the limit. So now good luck and keep us informed about the results!
  11. Ford Sierra discs on the TR6, all custom made spacers are EN7075 milled to 1mm thick bolts are grade 8 pins for pads custom made 1/4"
  12. Would agree to that, the TR6 with proper fuelling and balanced well, maybe combined with a light flywheel, becomes a totally different car even with a relatively mild cam with 290 degrees. It likes to rev very free and so you touch the 6000 quite often because it sounds nice and the engine likes that. Its fun...... But I would never hold the engine at 6500 on the straight, the engine would do that but something inside tells me that it is not good for that engine. Torsions of the crank will be affected not only at the front end by the damper but also at the rear end what normaly is fixed by the flywheel. If flywheel and clutch is much lighter it might also have influence on the torsion. Anyway these special cranks are so expensive that they boost every engine price and from that it will be a late stage in engine preparation.
  13. I see a sensor locating problem, too but rising to 18AFR is a bit high for the reason of bad location. A difference of lets say 40 degrees air temp just from my feeling will not be enough to cause such problems. My air temp is taken in the original PI system just after the air filter besides radiator and before the air tube to collector. The other problems with oil pressure and water temp are not EFI related and should be solved before going on. Did not read the whole thread why is there no AFR targeting and EGO control employed?
  14. Gasket maybe Elmeso-Reban custom made for about 140 Euros. They have a website. Springs must suit the cam. If they make the cam fail they bound what will eat the top of lobe or will eat the lobe from bad oiling what happens at (long) idle. To be on the safe side a race engine should not idle much or for a longer time. The beding in cam and followers is the main process for long life. Would take the springs recommended for the cam, run cam in with recommended process for 20 minutes use ZDDP and that is what we can do. A interesting idea might be with hard springs to bed in with soft springs avoiding high revs ans when engine is ready to use swap the springs to the race springs.
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