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About Triumph-V8

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    Rover V8 in the Triumph TR6
    Megasquirt 2 with Innovate LC1

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  1. Original rod with off centric small end, right TR6 piston, left MAZDA piston.
  2. Piston is the BBY type, Small end must be modified to accept the smaller gudgeon pin from VW. Also rod it too wide so piston must be milled 2mm on each side or rod must be milled smaller (not recommended) Works nice with the MaxspeedingRods. All in all I have 5 friends driving that. If you want it perfect you may want to make new small end off centric to get a longer rod working length and remove a bit from the top of the piston. If the block is recessed you have to mill the 0,7mm off to get a clean surface. Thats it! Go on and build a nice engine! Should you want to go further I have a set of MAZDA pistons in 77.75 and one in 78mm to sell.
  3. Very interesting to read about this! Did see the posts pretty late as I solved these problems some years ago. I did not have much problems with MegaSquirt 1 and the V8, but the 6-cylinder TR6 with MS2 made me feel it was not perfect. First I had to learn that the advertised initial map reading did not happen. Whatever I did, the MS started with "100" baro. Second was fitting 2nd Baro in the proto area and connected it. Now the data are read correctly but MSs conclusion was still wrong. Fiddeling with the setup curves did not give the results I expected. Right now I am fooling the MS telling her I have a custom baro and tweak the baro curve that it fits. On normal altitude here I prepared several 2nd baro curves to test in the hills which all did no change in fuel amount at this altitude here but are different steep at low air pressure. I simply made some tests in the alps, choose the best curve and now I am happy....... My MS2 went lean in the Alps in the beginning simply because the baro did see only "80" at full load instead of "100" at home. So the 80 fuel amount over the rpm range was poor and so engine runs lean when correction range of EGO was reached.
  4. Liners are in the range of 77.75mm outside..... It is a good idea to press them out and fit MAZDA Pistons in that size......
  5. Great job! Will be nice power increase because original is so ugly!
  6. I found the position of the sensor to the trigger wheel not critical. Also setting in MS2 the VR input potis was not critical. But I had to play with the filtering. Without that the engine did idle but when running frióm time to time lost the signal. At the V8 I have the old board and connect VR via EDIS. That worked without trouble just from the beginning
  7. Great job! Manufactured parts look nice and clean!
  8. If you want to drive a coil directly you need the BIP373. On the cooling board only one is fitted and there is no space for more. The 3 other channels come from the LEDs that drive three other BIPs They must be fitted somewhere where they can dissipate the heat. With the 4 channels you can drive the V8 in wasted spark mode.
  9. Easiest way is the EDIS8 and bolting the 36-1 wheel. You have an independent ignition and that is easier to set. You can stay with the setting of points of the MS2. Otherwise you will have to fit three additional coil drivers to MS2 and fiddle all out properly that it will run and find another place for triggering. The other end of the crank is the flywheel and I think it is a lot of work to establish triggering there. Ans other place will be affected by toothed gear, chains or spanners that will make the triggering not that precise. Why do you want to have more work than necessary? Did you check the signal for the need of filtering? Maybe that could be easiest solution. You can log for some time and if you get the problem you can analyse what is the reason.
  10. Oh yes, the split pin! I forgot. What about putting the hub in the lathe and setting the flange for the outer bearing 2mm to the inside that the outer bearing sits 2mm deeper in the hub? I see the problem of the space between flange for the rim and caliper. Normally I would try to have 5mm space between rotating and standing parts. So whereever the space is generated it is not nice, even cutting the flange at the outside is weakening a critical area. So I would do a little bit at several positions and hope to stay in the safe area with that.
  11. I would shim the stub axle towards the inner wheel bearing Maybe 2mm will do no harm and give clerance towards the vertical joint. Hopefully the outset of 2mm will clear the wheel under the wheelarch. Than I would mill the spacers from 10 to 6mm. The remaining clearance will be enough. I did the same needed 12mm from calculation and did 11. New brake pads still fit! Than I would make the spacers under caliper precisely to center the caliper. This will add clearance of 2mm to front of the hub. We also had trouble with the TR6 swap. Things became pretty narrow with steel rims, no problems with wire or alloys. Some added spacers to clear between rim and caliper with steel rims. That was also a problem with the vented disc set from EBC with 20mm discs. All of the spacers had trouble with the hole for the brake fluid. It was not drilled where the outlet in the caliper was and in some cases the canal gasket did not fit properly. In one case the caliper had the wrong depth for this gasket. Should be 0.9mm and was 2.1mm!
  12. Yes, cutted out of a 2.5mm steel plate and than grinded to fit
  13. There are several things that must be taken into account. If you want to participate in competition you need an engine that is on a level to compete with others, otherwise its no fun. If the competition has rules it is essential to read them first. Old Group 2 regulations for example will not allow to swap rods and crank and also the head must be original. If you aim for power with a limited budget you must do the things that will give best performance for money. With no doubt that are single inlet runners for each cylinder and a wilder cam. The other thing is more displacement, that is the easiest way and keeps low end torque. It is not advantageous to build a sports engine on the twin carbs because the things become nasty from a 280 degree cam on. The PI system offers 15 BHP over the SUs without disadvantages and is a must on a sporty engines like EFI or Weber DCOE or similar. So do not jump from one extreme to the other and leave mountain territory and now fiddle on the ground what is boring. Its like drinking: Half full is wasted money! We had several British machineries that bored out the block to 77mm without additional price. The VW piston is 30 Euro and from that I would recommend to do that first especially because the stock pistons are already at the limit. So now good luck and keep us informed about the results!
  14. Ford Sierra discs on the TR6, all custom made spacers are EN7075 milled to 1mm thick bolts are grade 8 pins for pads custom made 1/4"
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