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  1. Yesterday
  2. Camshaft Bearings

    Hello Alec That,s a big B******r mine is from a different era and why you are confused it is belt drive so the the alternator runs at 1500 I think (will check with my tachometer tomorrow) I will start a different thread showing photos Roger
  3. Camshaft Bearings

    Seem to remember Vizard having something to say on the subject of boring out CD carbs (SU & Stromberg). Not sure it was all that positive though. I think combined with a lairy cam "street driving" would be tricky! Airflow difference between 6k and 8k is substantial mind..... Nick
  4. Camshaft Bearings

    Hello Roger, I have a Lister HR6 generator, but your one at 850 sounds wrong. For 50 Hz you should be at 750 rpm, assuming a four pole pair generator? Alec
  5. Camshaft Bearings

    And as far as I can find never published, a few hints from Steve, and a piece by Tony Drew indicates that apart from bevelling the front of the piston, which it now appears from later flow bench test to be a waste, that the 150 CD (and the SU HS6) although nominally 1.5" .they aren't, the bore tapers from about 1.35 inlet to 1.5 outlet. So if you bore the carb out to 1.5" right the way through, it bugg.rs the choke mechanism (but who needs a choke) and rebuild a new bridge, you can get them to flow more, and still be a 1.5" carb. From AFR logging the 1.5 carbs on the 6 have a tendency to go rich and stay rich above 6K, and as I think (correct me if I'm wrong) that high compressions love rich mixtures, I think that's how they got to claimed 8K. As with the 1.5's and my fiddling I could get 6.5+K and with the 1.75 it will pull 7K (for the briefest of periods I let it), I think if you could afford the engine rebuilds I think a highly modified pair of 1.5's might just fuel a high compression 2ltr towards 8K, Not sure if it would be street drivable though! Alan
  6. Camshaft Bearings

    Hello Alan and Nick Alan I am in a more fortunate position than you as I have 3 cylinder heads(4 if I count the original one with a burnt exhaust seat! cam timing was wrong and opening to early I think it was!) 1) is a standard 1500 with hard seats(and ported by me!)swooped for a American spec differential(my Brother in laws but he has since sold the car after I got it going well for him)Pr**t 1) is the one I bought for £10 a 218141 1300cc Toledo with the bigger inlet valve. Plus the one on the car at the moment is a KC1156 1300cc Dolomite smaller inlet valve which I cleaned up the ports and machined the step in the combustion chamber away between the inlet and exhaust valves opposite the plug! to get the compression ratio down to about 9.5 to 1(I wish I could find the article that said do that!) and had hard exhaust seats fitted. This head has done 25,000+ miles with no problems. So I think I will port the Toledo one as it has the bigger inlet open the chamber up a bit but not go to the expense of hard exhaust seats in case its a dog! and I can put the 1500cc head on if it is Plus the face looks good and I think I can cut the 3 angle valve seats myself on the milling machine as it is only cast iron! Nick I assume the plug is opposite the grind area ie by B I have ordered a set of inlet valves and bronze guides (valves are nos Triumph/Leyland ones) from these people. http://www.leacyclassics.com/ Does that sound like a good plan ??? Roger ps I have been servicing our old Lister generator this morning a SOM 8-1 built in 1958 runs at a nice steady 850 rpm(very restful) not like the modern ones at 3,000 rpm!! I will post some photos later in a new heading
  7. Camshaft Bearings

    Also, some of the compression ratios (for 6 cylinder for sure, maybe not so much with the 4) were the result of Kastner having to run 150 Strombergs, limiting flow and I think he was tuning in a similar way to the restricted inlet series with a high CR to compensate for never getting a truly full charge at high rpm. Dunno how he got round the carb issues you were fighting Alan....? I don't understand the combustion chamber you've posted Roger. Doesn't look like a 4 cyl chamber to start with - where's the spark plug? Nick
  8. LeJog 2017

    Interesting selection of vehicles - some a bit unexpected. Reckon it will have been particularly challenging this time due to weather! TR4 seems to have had a bit more than a moment.......... Compliments to the photographer for venturing out in nasty conditions! Nick
  9. LeJog 2017

    https://heroevents.eu/event-type/le-jog/ http://www.johnogroat-journal.co.uk/Sport/Other-Sport/Lejog-rally-crosses-the-finish-line-at-John-OGroats-12122017.htm Below are some photos of cars that completed this years"s LeJog, according to the local press only 39 out of 53 completed it. Pictured is about half of the finishers taken outside three of the hotels in Wick. The other accommodation is out towards the outskirts, which I didn't visit because of the bad walking due to the thawed then refrozen snow. (My car was frozen in to its parking space!) Apologies for the photo quality, I don't have a proper flashgun anymore so couldn't take balanced flash against the available light. Ian.
  10. Last week
  11. Camshaft Bearings

    Don't forget that the compression ratios they were using were for racing, and with some now regarded legacy cam profiles, probably nothing tractable below 4K rpm. That doesn't denigrate the concepts on good head work, the porting on my MK1 head was done by some who took Kastner's port & throat work, plus Vizard's chamber work and said "Wimps" fortunately he did it on a thicker saloon head, and I got it before anyone had ever used it/skimmed it, so I was able to keep compression ratio in the sane tractable band. If I could afford to I'd love to see what skimming it to around 10:1 would do, might be very exciting above 5K but I think would ruin the over all balance of the engine. Alan
  12. Camshaft Bearings

    Hello All Kas Kastner shows this for the 1500 cylinder head which would be easy on my milling machine and burrs. So now I am getting even more confused(not to difficult!) They were running 12 to 1 compression ratio and probably avgas or similar? There are more power gains by modifying the combustion chamber. The section that needs attention is the area around the inlet valve. Grind away the cast iron around the inlet valve as shown in the drawings. This simple bit of grinding will improve the flow considerably and consequently the power. My test engine was running a 12.0 compression ratio and has shown no ill effects from the modification. It is mandatory that an oil cooler be fitted when you go to this higher compression ratio. We have had no failures, but as a matter of good maintenance we checked the rod bearings after several hours of running time. We found that the bearings were all in good condition. It is only a matter of good sense though, to check after a hard race to see firsthand how the situation appears. Since the original time of this writing many owners have reported the great success they have had with this modification. If you are using a gasket other than the compressed stock .035'' head gasket be sure to measure the thickness so that all your calculations are true to the parts used. After all the grinding and machine work has been finished, assemble the head with the valves and valve Roger
  13. Ian's Dolomite Sprint EFI

    Nick, I haven't looked at the driver's side yet. If it needs the same, then so be it. The screen pillars need some work but are not that bad really. Once I have completed the welding under the car, then I will attend to the pillars. Ian.
  14. Ian's Dolomite Sprint EFI

    Hmm, that's rusting in a fairly odd way. What are the screen pillars like? Full sills should give a nice end result but a fair amount of effort. Is this needed both sides? @ Flatter4, Thanks for the shift+return tip - that's been bugging me for ages! Nick
  15. Ian's Dolomite Sprint EFI

    Yes thanks for that, left to my own devices, I would have never figured it out! Ian.
  16. Ian's Dolomite Sprint EFI

    Lines of text stay together when you "shift" + return. Further apart when you don't.....
  17. Ian's Dolomite Sprint EFI

    Most of the car's interior has ben removed in preparation for welding. Usually the outer sill skins are sufficient for completing repairs after the inner sill soffitt and diaphragm have been sorted but the nearside of this car is more challenging..... The tread plate of the sill is holed at all three posts and heavily corroded underneath in parts elsewhere. To replace this I have bought a full sill (which cost £175). It'll be the New year before I can really get on with the welding because I am working every day until then. Ideally I would like to have the welding done by May so I can get on with painting in the summer. We'll see . Ian.
  18. Camshaft Bearings

    Those seals will probably fit. There are a whole bunch of very similar seals available. Witor uses one listed for some Austin Rover engine. http://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=CW2903 Others use ones intended for VAG. Pretty much anything that looks like that and is intended for an 8mm valve should work though some are fat enough to be a marginal fit inside the inner valve spring. Witor does some lovely guides too. I have some in the Vitesse. They are now more than 3 x the price I paid though, so the ones you suggest and a bit of simple lathe work seems like the way to go. That's what I did on the PI head also. This is information out there on how to do the 1300/1500 head properly. Some of it says to grind away the shape by the spark plug. Other say that the shape is there for a reason and is to concentrate the charge near the plug and thus left more or less alone. What can be done is to grind back the chamber wall around the inlet valve (including at the base of the plug ramp) to unshroud the valve. Obviously care is needed not to undercut the head gasket sealing area. This could be done on the exhaust side too if you still need more volume. Don't machine out the bottom of the chamber. Must be a later TR6 (CR) with the small exhaust valve. The earlier ones have the valves almost touching and cracking between the valves can be a problem. Nick
  19. Camshaft Bearings

    Hello All Will these seal fit with perhaps some maching of the guides(I have a lathe) http://www.theengineshop.info/acatalog/Valve-Stem-Seal-8mm-026109675.html#SID=52 And how about these just need shortening? http://www.thewedgeshopstore.com/valve-guide-set-bronze-spitfire-mki-mkii/ I have done a bit of cleaning up one chamber and its only 36cc so way to small! can I chamfer the side opposite the spark plug like a 6 cylinder head? The 1500cc engine is the same bore as TR6 and valve sizes are the same! I could just machine a bit out of the bottom of the chamber! Roger
  20. 16P and PB calipers

    That spring thingy is nothing to do with a Girling 16 series caliper. Looks like it's from a modern sliding caliper. Nick
  21. Camshaft Bearings

    Hello Nick Yes it is a 1300cc head whith about 36/37cc chamber! So if I can find 2cc(39cc) plus 4cc in gasket plus 378.4 cc = 421.4 divide by 43cc = 9.8 to 1 Or is that to high? The 1500cc head insert is 37.76mm o/d and 31.75mm i/d(1 1/4") = 6mm so 3mm wall thickness (118") To get to 36.5mm valve it would be bored to 33.33mm i/d (1 5/16") = 4.5mm so 2.25mm wall thickness(0.088") Not sure about that sounds a bit thin? I think I will get a set of valves or I could just modify one chamber and use and old valve to measure chamber and see what I get? Then I still have the 1500cc head untouched! Roger
  22. 16P and PB calipers

    If refurbishing your own I always go for the stainless pistons, slightly more, but not a lot, and zero future corrosion or pitting. There is something funny about your pad pins and the springy things. I thought all the 16 type calipers used either a pin with a spring pin or a pin that you spread the ends on to secure/locate the pads. I have seen those wire spring things on things like the TR7 calipers, but not I though on the 16 type. I could of course be entirely wrong! Alan
  23. 16P and PB calipers

    Pad rattle is much less of an issue when the pad platforms are there! Got ours (for Chris's GT6-braked Spitfire) from ANG on ebay for £120 ish incl. VAT and delivery, but I suspect they all come from the same place. They look fine but we had an issue with them that seemed like an impossible-to-fully-bleed system with a very long pedal. Eventually we realised it was actually the caliper pistons returning too much. This presumably due to too much friction between the piston and seal, causing the seal to roll too much. We got around it by removing the shims and pumping the pedal. This left just enough room to get the shims back - and instant pedal. Had to repeat a couple of times in the first 1500 miles as the pedal got long again but now (at ~ 2.5k) they seem to have settled. I know of at least two other definite cases of the same thing. Nick
  24. 16P and PB calipers

    Cheers Nick. Agree, they look horrible. I'm tempted with new calipers, and it seems MGCs are the same part number - and MGB Hive sell new ones for only £45 each. Not sure if they're made of Plasticine at this price though? When you say they take "time to settle" what do you mean? The anti squeal is with a shim, not sure the shim does anything to prevent rattle? Though the chances of hearing pad rattle over the din of everything else is slim!
  25. 16P and PB calipers

    Those pad platforms are probably the worst I've seen (including my 300+k Audi A6!). Useable? - I guess. Ideal - no. Agree P calipers (presume there is a narrow groove just inside the bores for the lip of the correct P seal?) with PB pistons. Also not ideal as the dust seal won't have been doing much. As you say, perfectly easy to rectify with correct pistons and seal kit. Bear in mind that you can buy new PB calipers for around £120/pair outright. Though they do seem to take a little time to settle. Anti-rattle/squeal is usually by stainless steel shims not springy things. Nick
  26. Cleaning up the calipers for my GT6 I became a little confused. It seems they are 16P calipers with 16PB pistons and seals - without the wire clips fitted. That's easy enough to overcome with some new bits, but I'd appreciate some input from you guys on 3 questions: 1. Do you think the caliper in the attached picture is serviceable / salvageable? - note the 'hooking' to the platform the pad sits on. I can file this flat, but that will leave a wide clearance for the pad (see question 2).... 2. Does anyone know of a good set of anti rattle springs that could be used on these calipers? - I have some of unknown origin (see second picture), but not sure if these should fit, and if they should; how? 3. What is the best paint for calipers? I'm thinking of the stuff from Frosts - their products are usually damned good Cheers, Will.
  27. My weekend so far

    Hello Nick, another Daimler V8 was the 4.5 litre version of the 2.5 fitted to the Daimler Majestic Major saloon. Despite it's size it was very quick for it's day. I think William Lyons killed it off as it was a better and faster car than the Jaguar Mk 10. Alec
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