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  1. Yesterday
  2. Vitesse project

    Moss USA had India made 16p calipers a ridiculously cheap price so i bought a pair should also be available a Moss UK
  3. Vitesse project

    MY HT starter also spins the engine over faster than the standard one, as Nick says check the cabling especially the earth
  4. Vitesse project

    You won't regret the carb spacer, sorry about the mess, I always use a portable drill to pump the oil as its more controllable than a mains one, I also put an O ring around the shaft so that its just on the dist pedestal and put a lump of rag around the shaft into the pedestal to prevent an overflow. That really is looking nice though! Alan
  5. Vitesse project

    Check the cables and earths straps are good - jump leads can be helpful for that. My ND reduction gear starter (ancient, ex scrapped Toyota) spins the engine very quickly. Nick
  6. Vitesse project

    Some more work on the Vitesse after the successfull 10CR. Fitted both sets and the seatbelts A special request from Alan, carb spacer to help them stay cool Made a mess while getting oil up to pressure with the hand drill AND tried to start the engine .... which was net yet successfull. Will fetch NEW Bosch sparkplugs tomorrow and try again. Timing is definitely right now and we have fuel in the carbs. One thing we noticed is that the high torque starter motor seems to turn over way slower then a standard one !? JC
  7. It's PU glue isn't it? I've heard many good things about it. My top tip with fibreglass gelcoat or epoxy repairs is to use plastic (acetate) sheet and/or tape to cover the repair. Essentially making part of a mould. Works like you did with the plastic bag, but as it's got a bit more structure it allows better filling of concave sections. Saves a load of sanding and polishing after the job.
  8. Your experience with the "professionals" would seem to be more positive than some! I can't really comment as I've only used them for getting screens replaced on moderns and they've all been bonded. Until the Spitfire issues I've never had a problem fitting screens and I've done a reasonable number. I've even removed and refitted a laminate screen successfully (in a scrapyard!) though I did cut the old seal to get it out. Fitting the trim strips is a different story though........ That usually seems to involve development of special tools, exotic techniques, lots of cussing and sore fingers! Nick
  9. Herald (Vitesse) Estate Project

    The one thing that old age has taught me is never fit windscreens! Apart from the absolute pain and time, and the real risk of breaking a laminate, I have discovered that the £60 it costs to get a professional to do it not only saves me half a day, but also they make it look easy with all the right tools, and they also guarantee against leeks and will come back and fix, which as we know with Triumph screens is almost an odds on certainty. Alan
  10. Windscreens and windscreen seals....... We wasted some serious time with the Spitfire - that was crappy incorrect seals - you may remember. Never even tried to fit the finisher strips - he preferred it black. Have to trial-fit a windscreen in the GT6 as we've been messing (repairing) the screen surround. I bought another seal from COH Baines as that worked in the Spitfire. Old age..... not yet mate, but it's creeping up. Some days it's tapping you on the shoulder........ Nick
  11. I filled the gap wth a foam sponge cord. Yesterday evening I inserted the Chrome finisher. It was a sod. I needed THREE hours to get it into the rubber seal. With the feet on the bulkhead, knee pressing a cork block against the finisher and mm by mm opening the groove in the rubber seal with a screwdriver then pushing the finisher in. I was soaked with sweat. All my fingers are aching today. Getting old. No not getting, I am.
  12. put the front window (Bastuck) into the car with a (James Paddock) seal. There was a gap at the RH A pillar (complete length).
  13. Last week
  14. It foams as well when setting, so not ideal for gluing veneer? If you got the same sort? That action is ideal for GRP repair as it penetrates the matt, and as I said before fills voids. I had one nasty crack, no significant gel coat loss, but still completely detatched, so I ground out a 'V' of gel, sprayed water, put Glue in and covered it with a strip of plastic bag, taped down with masking. The result is almost a perfect repair! It's ready for painting (if you're not fussy - this is a race car; war wounds are allowed), and the Glue has penetrated behind as it swelled, unable to get forwards, locking the sides of the crack togther. John
  15. AFR Reading

    Mine is wired up with the Fuel Pump relay which switches off after a couple of seconds if you don't crank the engine, but I must confess to bypassing this and powering up and leaving on for a bit when I was getting things set-up in the early days, but only a handful of times, but maybe that caused some damage. We'll see how it goes. Darren
  16. Repairing GRP

    Hello All That,s the stuff I used to glue the veneer on to the dashboard. I read its only worth buying a bottle big enough for the job as it starts to go off once opened(damp air) water is the activating agent. But on saying that just looked at the bottle in the garage and it is still liquid inside(did not take the top off) but whether it is any good still? Roger
  17. AFR Reading

    That's pretty much where mine is and that has lasted for years. It survived some pretty significant oil burning by the old engine too. Nick
  18. Repairing GRP

    Thanks, best get some in. Nick
  19. AFR Reading

    Ok looks a good position, just asked as Innovate recommend longer bungs if they are fitted closer to the head. And I know that the wideband sensors don't like being powered up heated if they have damp/condensation on them, but looks like you have that all covered. In terms of early failure of wideband sensors, one of the areas of discussion is should you power them up before starting the engine, or only just as you are starting the engine, Innovate recommend only when starting (although contrary advice can be found elsewhere). One thing that is recommended is that you don't power them up and leave them powered up without starting the engine, so for example if you have them wired to come on with ignition switch and you turn the ignition on to test/wire up do other things for any period then it can cause premature failure. I have my sensors wired so that they only come on when I power the fuel pump, i.e. I really am going to start the engine. Alan
  20. AFR Reading

    Just a standard length bung and the sensor is at around 1 O'clock. Darren
  21. AFR Reading

    Where do you have it mounted, and in what orientation to the pipe, also what kind of bung do you have welded into exhaust for it? long short? picture? Alan
  22. There's tape, wood glue, epoxy, sealant, super glue etc, but this the GLUE! http://uk.gorillaglue.com/gorilla-glue A 60ml bottle for less than a fiver goes a long way! John
  23. Repairing GRP

    Thanks. Which one exactly? I think there is a range of Gorilla Glues? Could have done with it to stick the A8 bumper back together after the Bambi incident! Nick
  24. EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation Return of a proportion of exhaust gases to the inlet manifold under some conditions. Spoils the combustion efficiency a bit, reduces combustion temperatures and reduces formation of nitrogen oxides. Used on both petrol and diesel engines. On diesels it can have a fairly disastrous effect on the state of the inlet manifold.... Younger son has inherited Chris's old Arosa. This is the 1.7 SDi normally aspirated diesel. When new it had 60 clattery horses. The S is for slow. It's been a pretty decent car. Now in it's 4th year of service with us. It actually has a pretty hard life and it needs to work (college is a 40 mile round trip) so we serviced it a couple of weeks ago ago discovered a couple gremlins. One was a small hole in the fuel feed pipe, just above the tank, which explained quite nicely why it was getting (even) slower and harder to start when the tank was nearly empty. We also took the cover off the inlet manifold which is just a big box, half aluminium, half plastic housing these weird curved ram-pipes. Which were absolutely rammed with soot stuck together with oil from the breather system. I ordered gaskets and we pulled it apart properly this afternoon. Yuck! Dismantling and reassembly were refreshingly easy after the nightmare that is the TT. Cleaning though Mechanical methods, caustic solution, water-based degreaser, carb cleaner...... It's tubes are now fairly clear and the EGR disabled. Apparently it goes better - not alot, but a bit. Amazing it ran at all. No 4 ram pipe was nearly blocked....... Nick
  25. Last race, I had a little - er - meeting, with a crash barrier. Nothing serious but it damaged my Vitesse's bonnet. Some cracks, fractures and joint disruptions, that should need mending with resin and layer(s) of random mat. Several hours with prep and letting it go off. Well, no more! Gorilla Glue! This stuff is really good! Wet the surfaces (!) Spread the Glue and clamp up. It FOAMS as it sets, penetrates voids and fibrous surfaces, grips like, well, a gorilla, and doesn't go rigid and brittle. Very useful stuff! I recommend it. John
  26. Nick & Chris's Gt6 Mk 3

    Was fully welded last weekend, partly by me, partly by Chris. This weekend I have mostly been cutting hedges and fiddling with more modern machinery. However, I did find time to have a bit of a grindathon and the weld was ground back then further tidied with a power file. Then shone a light behind , drew a ring around all the pin holes (yes, there were a few). Reweld and grind back...... and repeat a couple of times. No more holes. Also a little shrinking went on at the far left where we had a bit of a bulge, which seemed to work pretty well. This is how it stands now. My next move will be to remove the lamp panel (only held in with self tappers) for repairs. I'll also take the opportunity to tidy up the bottom of the long weld and the welds from the previous repair. Once the lamp panel and refitted permanently I'll body-solder the seam areas. Nick
  27. AFR Reading

    Good news is that the new o2 sensor has done the trick and everything is working again. Not so good news is that I did have to pay some import charges which meant it was only a small saving on buying from a UK supplier, but no big deal. A bit curious as to why it only lasted a few thousand miles, will be more curious if this one does the same.... Darren
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