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Metal Roofs Can Help The Environment

As consumers learn more about the importance of sustainable living, more homeowners are turning their attention to eco-friendly projects for their homes. As demand increases so does supply and there are many in the construction industry seeking for eco-friendly solutions to help consumers live sustainably. One of these solutions which has been growing in popularity is metal roofing.   The rise of metal roofing When you look at all the benefits of metal roofing, its easy to see why it's become so much more commonplace in America. Metal roofs are some of the most durable roofs you can find. They can withstand the most fierce weather including heavy rain, snow, hail, and strong winds. In addition to holding up against the weather, they're impervious to other things that threaten most roofs such as fire and pests. Because they are so durable and easy to maintain, they benefit the environment in a number of ways.   Energy efficiency One of the major ways that metal roofs can help the environment is by saving energy. Metal roofs are considered cool roofs because they reflect the suns rays back up into the atmosphere rather than absorbing them like dark roofs (such as asphalt shingle roofs) do. According to a study on different roofing materials at the Oak Ridge National Labratory, cool metal roofing was the most effective at reflecting sunlight. The research also suggests that cool metal roofs could even lower the ambient temperature in urban areas by reducing the urban heat island effect. In warmer climates, metal roofing can be a huge advantage because not only do they lower cooling costs, but they are conserving that energy to be used elsewhere.   Longevity When a roof is replaced, most homeowners don't give a thought to what happens to their old roof. Usually, the old roof ends up in a landfill. The more often a roof needs to be replaced, the more waste that's going into landfills. Another major advantage to metal roofing is that it can last 2-3 times longer than an asphalt shingle roof. That means 2-3 times less waste. Combine that with the fact that metal roofs require very little in the way of maintenance and you begin to see why so many homeowners are beginning to switch to metal roofing.   Recyclability Of course no roof lasts forever and even a metal roof will need to be replaced eventually. Unlike other roofing materials that usually end up in a landfill, metal roofs are highly recyclable. Most metal roofs already consist of up to 40% recyclable materials to begin with. But 100% of the metal roof can be recycled once the roof is replaced. That means that old roof can be turned into a new roof for someone else or into something else. Where it won't end up is in a landfill.   Home improvement news brought to you by bartonroof.com Source: triplepundit.com/2014/08/metal-roofing-unlikely-way-reduce-waste-save-energy/

dyinalux

dyinalux

 

The Story So Far.

Hello all,   I've only just joined so I thought I would put a few words together. Ok, I've got a 1964 Vitesse 6 that has previously had its body restored, a 2000 engine from a MK2 saloon fitted along with a overdrive unit and a Swing spring at the rear. The interior was completely replaced and looked very good when I purchased it 2 years ago. Since owning, I've replaced the battery which failed 1 hr after buying the car, don't you just love some sellers. It also pulled badly to the left. Various tyre shops couldn't fix it, so it went to Jim Stokes and £400 later I find I've got a bent chassis by 6mm but packing and setting of the castor and camber by them she's now perfect. Replaced both tread plate panels and fitted oversize circlips to the uj's to stop slow speed knocking. Fiddled with the choke settings so that a clothes peg is not needed so much too hold the choke on.Shame it's not fitted with a twist and lock knob. General tuning etc of ignition and carbs. Originally fitted needles seemed to be to weak across the range judging by its performance and colour of the plugs. So I'm now using reprofiled needles that are better but I'm sure not perfect. Need a RR. Two weeks ago I fitted an alternator kit from C.Witor after modifying the internals of an old rectifier unit. So now plan to fit a kenlowe type fan, pertronix and then 2500 manifold with either HS4's or 6's. If I can find a good 6-3-1 manifold then that will go on too. Need to replace the front springs to lower the front as it looks like its dragging its a*se with the swing spring fitted. The rear shockers also feel as they are nearly bottoming out so any rear passengers end up doing great impersinations of Churchill the dog. Sorry got carried away, this was only supposed to be a few words. More to follow!!

Steve's Vit6

Steve's Vit6

 

Freezing At -20C May Feel Banal, But Maybe Not Banal For Some

This one takes me to the studio in a grand old soviet style concert hall.   Russian trams take many shapes and sizes, most of them dating from 40 years or so ago. They only ever get stopped by the odd car that is stupid enough to get in the way.   (saw one the other day,a demolished brand new BMW. Unfortunately it blocks the trams solid for hrs while the insurers arrive in true bureaucratic russian style)   They have a great way of warming up the most important parts. Now why couldn't the British think of that?   Life inside, while frosty patterns form on the inside of the windows.   She's as ugly as the back end of a bus, or in this case a tram.   This is a Volga. They refuse to die or get damaged by russian roads.   The view from outside the concert hall   No-one would ever pretend, in the Soviet Union they didn't do things without a sense of style especially inside.   Where I spend the next 5hrs or so working or trying to practice.   I have never been so relieved as to catch this one back....-20C with a wind & 40 minutes wait! Brrrr     This is the result of living in a "developing" country. Some things develop from time to time, some don't.   Here the new generation tram, with old generation prices....28p to go any distance. Now there's an idea for London Boris!  

GT

GT

 

Efi Conversion

Fuel Rail Question...   So I'm in the middle of getting all the parts together to replace the Lucas Mechanical PI system on my car to a modern EFI system, more for reliability, ease of tuning and saving petrol than there being anything wrong with the current set up, and I have a question re the fueling.   I have the shiney new fuel rail ready to drill out and I was wondering if I need a pressure relief valve on the end of the fuel rail to keep fuel in the rail supplying the injectors or not? This question has arisen out of when I purchased a set of Bosch injectors from a BMW the fuel rail has one on the end. I have an adjustable fuel regulator mounted on the bulk head to ensure the fuel entering the rail is at the correct pressure from the pump but wasn't sure about fitting a PRV at the other end or not?   Cheers,   Jason.

mrjpgray

mrjpgray

 

Some Progress Finally

finally I managed to get some things fixed on the racer:   - The silencer is modified to fit and in place. A custom big box (oval with 262x116 mm, with 350mm length to fit under the trunk) with some additional tweaks. I hope it meets Zandvoort noise restrictions without further mods required.   - I switched from rubber engine mounts to PU engine mounts. Shore 70. Not much engine movement left at the moment. I'm curious how long they will last or if the metal-PU bonding will detach.   The next step: doing a nice conversion for the front coilovers to shorter shocks so I'm not constantly running on the bump stops...

RK

RK

 

A First Blog Post

So, I'm going to start blogging about spitfire tweaking. I've been pretty busy last year with non-car related stuff (read: the business that pays my rent), so no racing, no fiddling, and not mutch Spitfire at all. Now I'm going to clean up the garage, reload the starter batteries, wipe the dust from the cars, and pick up again the work where I stopped: get a new TÃœV for the road car, build a new exhaust for the racer, and get the front suspension sorted: new dampers, modify the a-arms to get track width and camber right.   Will I be racing this year? I have no clue yet, but since a slightly changed business is even more time consuming than ever, I'm really not sure about it. But I descided to create no pressure for this, fine if I can make it happen, but I'm not going to sacrifice mental health for it, or risk to appear at the track with a poorly prepped car, that happened to often in 2009 to me. I'm not going to make that mistake again -- too expensive for too little fun.   I will try to keep this updated with results and pictures when I have some results to present.   Have fun, Reinald

RK

RK

 

Goodwood Breakfast Club

The theme this month was "Post 70s Sporting Legends" - pictures HERE.   Our Jag was almost sent away; they didn't believe it was 74! Ended up next to the new 500... not what I'd consider a sporting legend!!!   Also met up with my friend with the GT6; who lent me the caliper spreader - I "lent" him four pints of real ale   Aaron

Aar0sc

Aar0sc

 

Car Show

At Haslemere. Pictures here   Was great fun; and I managed to blag a ride in a Vitesse for the Tour; and have been lent a ball joint splitter too!

Aar0sc

Aar0sc

 

First Thingamajig

Hello!   Aaron here; I believe I may be the first person to take up residence in this blog section. If not; then I must be the youngest.   Right?   Anyway; my car's thread is here. And a random video of it is here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HC2qrnOl4I   Aaron

Aar0sc

Aar0sc

 

Thought Id Be The First

Thought id be the first to start a blog.   With regards to the car, not much is happening, focus has changed. Car is going to be made as std racing spec as possible, classic race series is out my budget but if i make it stock performance i should be able to manage a hillclimb or two a year.   I got the all clear from the hospital yesterday, leg is now at 95% strength after 7 months of healing, however it still needs some work. As such a race licence is a no go for 12 months until the give me the 100% status. More importantly i've been banned from snowboarding for another year and a half which is just shit.   Job situation may change things once again, if i do get formally offered the new job everything will change again, i cant take the car with me so it will end up going into storage.   So all in big changes ahead.

mattius

mattius

  • Recent Posts

    • Basically the engine is getting extremely hot although the water temperature is not getting abnormally high, the ecu struggles to maintain an even tickover around 850rpm dipping to 500rpm. Engine is getting very tight and runs unevenly at normal speeds (40-60). Air sensor is located level with the radiator below halfway
    • I see a sensor locating problem, too but rising to 18AFR is a bit high for the reason of bad location. A difference of lets say 40 degrees air temp  just from my feeling will not be enough to cause such problems.   My air temp is taken in the original PI system just after the air filter besides radiator and before the air tube to collector.   The other problems with oil pressure and water temp are not EFI related and should be solved before going on.   Did not read the whole thread why is there no AFR targeting and EGO control employed?
    • The advice I have followed without regret is that Twin Red TR5 springs are just about optimum, however you should also be led by the advice of who supplies your cam, (unless of course you think they are just trying to up sell you). IF anyone minded brain picking I'd have been thrown off long ago. Triple CD carbs is a Marmite Question, a good start read could be https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/43950-are-triple-carbs-rubbish/page-3?hl= triple strombergs I'd not consider it lowering sights, but maybe rather building an engine for intended use rather than aiming at a number that may deliver the opposite. NB If your thinking of Historic Saloon Racing check the regs first before building the engine. Nothing worse that spending a lot of time and effort only to be told at scrutineers "you can't run". NB.  If the regs allow it? EFI would probably be as cheap as triple webbers. Alan
    • Gasket maybe Elmeso-Reban custom made for about 140 Euros. They have a website.   Springs must suit the cam. If they make the cam fail they bound what will eat the top of lobe or will eat the lobe from bad oiling what happens at (long) idle. To be on the safe side a race engine should not idle much or for a longer time. The beding in cam and followers is the main process for long life. Would take the springs recommended for the cam, run cam in with recommended process for 20 minutes use ZDDP and that is what we can do.   A interesting idea might be with hard springs to bed in with soft springs avoiding high revs ans when engine is ready to use swap the springs to the race springs.
    • Not sure what problem we are advising on here? Oil pressure - the numbers you quote are way high for idle. I suspect your gauge lies as 95 psi cold idle plus some revs would likely produce oil filter popping pressures. Otherwise there is something amiss with the relief valve. Hot idle problem - I'm almost sure this will prove to be a heat-soak problem with your inlet air temperature sensor. The signal from this is used as part of the ECUs fuelling calculation to correct for air density. Warm air is less dense so less fuel required but if the sensor is being over-warmed it will over-correct and cause a lean mixture. Where is the sensor located? Nick
    • Thanks for the replies, food for thought. What are you thoughts on valve springs? I don't want to learn from my own pile of scrap parts and I realise that there is some real life experience on here so I hope you all don't mind me picking brains! I agree that maybe the Lucas pi is a bridge too far and I may spend the rest of my life trying to get it to fuel right. Maybe I'll just have to bite the bullet on the triple webbers. Has anybody used 3 SU's with any success? Triumph-V8 has pointed me in direction of a custom head gasket (thanks for that) and as long as I'm not changing it every weekend it's not going to hurt too much. I hear what your saying otu I'm not expecting (or wanting) to set the world on fire I just would like to get out there and have some fun so maybe I should lower my sights just slightly and go in the direction you suggest. I certainly want to spend more time driving than with the engine in bits.
    • Have you tried a different gauge? Jambed or incorrect PRV? Alan 
    • Tr6 efi is now running well most days, till we got to this hot spell. On a run round country lanes she is fine till you in to traffic, temp gauge starts to rise electric fan come on and just about copes for short periods, but never boils as such. Took a reading with laser temp gauge and it’s about normal around 80c. It’s the air temp that gets very hot 40c + when this happens the tickover starts to suffer, starts around 900 and slowly goes down to 500 then stalls o2 gauge goes very week 16 to 18. Have changed the rad new lower stat flushed the engine out , slightly better, one thing I have got is very very high oil pressure, cold 95 tickover hot 65  2000rpm hot over 100 Any ideas welcome  Phil  
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