As consumers learn more about the importance of sustainable living, more homeowners are turning their attention to eco-friendly projects for their homes. As demand increases so does supply and there are many in the construction industry seeking for eco-friendly solutions to help consumers live sustainably. One of these solutions which has been growing in popularity is metal roofing.
The rise of metal roofing
When you look at all the benefits of metal roofing, its easy to see why it's become so much more commonplace in America. Metal roofs are some of the most durable roofs you can find. They can withstand the most fierce weather including heavy rain, snow, hail, and strong winds. In addition to holding up against the weather, they're impervious to other things that threaten most roofs such as fire and pests. Because they are so durable and easy to maintain, they benefit the environment in a number of ways.
One of the major ways that metal roofs can help the environment is by saving energy. Metal roofs are considered cool roofs because they reflect the suns rays back up into the atmosphere rather than absorbing them like dark roofs (such as asphalt shingle roofs) do. According to a study on different roofing materials at the Oak Ridge National Labratory, cool metal roofing was the most effective at reflecting sunlight. The research also suggests that cool metal roofs could even lower the ambient temperature in urban areas by reducing the urban heat island effect. In warmer climates, metal roofing can be a huge advantage because not only do they lower cooling costs, but they are conserving that energy to be used elsewhere.
When a roof is replaced, most homeowners don't give a thought to what happens to their old roof. Usually, the old roof ends up in a landfill. The more often a roof needs to be replaced, the more waste that's going into landfills. Another major advantage to metal roofing is that it can last 2-3 times longer than an asphalt shingle roof. That means 2-3 times less waste. Combine that with the fact that metal roofs require very little in the way of maintenance and you begin to see why so many homeowners are beginning to switch to metal roofing.
Of course no roof lasts forever and even a metal roof will need to be replaced eventually. Unlike other roofing materials that usually end up in a landfill, metal roofs are highly recyclable. Most metal roofs already consist of up to 40% recyclable materials to begin with. But 100% of the metal roof can be recycled once the roof is replaced. That means that old roof can be turned into a new roof for someone else or into something else. Where it won't end up is in a landfill.
Home improvement news brought to you by bartonroof.com
I've only just joined so I thought I would put a few words together.
Ok, I've got a 1964 Vitesse 6 that has previously had its body restored, a 2000 engine from a MK2 saloon fitted along with a overdrive unit and a Swing spring at the rear. The interior was completely replaced and looked very good when I purchased it 2 years ago.
Since owning, I've replaced the battery which failed 1 hr after buying the car, don't you just love some sellers.
It also pulled badly to the left. Various tyre shops couldn't fix it, so it went to Jim Stokes and Â£400 later I find I've got a bent chassis by 6mm but packing and setting of the castor and camber by them she's now perfect.
Replaced both tread plate panels and fitted oversize circlips to the uj's to stop slow speed knocking.
Fiddled with the choke settings so that a clothes peg is not needed so much too hold the choke on.Shame it's not fitted with a twist and lock knob.
General tuning etc of ignition and carbs. Originally fitted needles seemed to be to weak across the range judging by its performance and colour of the plugs. So I'm now using reprofiled needles that are better but I'm sure not perfect. Need a RR.
Two weeks ago I fitted an alternator kit from C.Witor after modifying the internals of an old rectifier unit.
So now plan to fit a kenlowe type fan, pertronix and then 2500 manifold with either HS4's or 6's.
If I can find a good 6-3-1 manifold then that will go on too.
Need to replace the front springs to lower the front as it looks like its dragging its a*se with the swing spring fitted.
The rear shockers also feel as they are nearly bottoming out so any rear passengers end up doing great impersinations of Churchill the dog.
Sorry got carried away, this was only supposed to be a few words.
More to follow!!
This one takes me to the studio in a grand old soviet style concert hall.
Russian trams take many shapes and sizes, most of them dating from 40 years or so ago.
They only ever get stopped by the odd car that is stupid enough to get in the way.
(saw one the other day,a demolished brand new BMW. Unfortunately it blocks the trams solid for hrs while the insurers arrive in true bureaucratic russian style)
They have a great way of warming up the most important parts.
Now why couldn't the British think of that?
Life inside, while frosty patterns form on the inside of the windows.
She's as ugly as the back end of a bus, or in this case a tram.
This is a Volga. They refuse to die or get damaged by russian roads.
The view from outside the concert hall
No-one would ever pretend, in the Soviet Union they didn't do things without a sense of style especially inside.
Where I spend the next 5hrs or so working or trying to practice.
I have never been so relieved as to catch this one back....-20C with a wind & 40 minutes wait!
This is the result of living in a "developing" country.
Some things develop from time to time, some don't.
Here the new generation tram, with old generation prices....28p to go any distance.
Now there's an idea for London Boris!
Fuel Rail Question...
So I'm in the middle of getting all the parts together to replace the Lucas Mechanical PI system on my car to a modern EFI system, more for reliability, ease of tuning and saving petrol than there being anything wrong with the current set up, and I have a question re the fueling.
I have the shiney new fuel rail ready to drill out and I was wondering if I need a pressure relief valve on the end of the fuel rail to keep fuel in the rail supplying the injectors or not? This question has arisen out of when I purchased a set of Bosch injectors from a BMW the fuel rail has one on the end. I have an adjustable fuel regulator mounted on the bulk head to ensure the fuel entering the rail is at the correct pressure from the pump but wasn't sure about fitting a PRV at the other end or not?
finally I managed to get some things fixed on the racer:
- The silencer is modified to fit and in place. A custom big box (oval with 262x116 mm, with 350mm length to fit under the trunk) with some additional tweaks. I hope it meets Zandvoort noise restrictions without further mods required.
- I switched from rubber engine mounts to PU engine mounts. Shore 70. Not much engine movement left at the moment. I'm curious how long they will last or if the metal-PU bonding will detach.
The next step: doing a nice conversion for the front coilovers to shorter shocks so I'm not constantly running on the bump stops...
So, I'm going to start blogging about spitfire tweaking. I've been pretty busy last year with non-car related stuff (read: the business that pays my rent), so no racing, no fiddling, and not mutch Spitfire at all. Now I'm going to clean up the garage, reload the starter batteries, wipe the dust from the cars, and pick up again the work where I stopped: get a new TÃœV for the road car, build a new exhaust for the racer, and get the front suspension sorted: new dampers, modify the a-arms to get track width and camber right.
Will I be racing this year? I have no clue yet, but since a slightly changed business is even more time consuming than ever, I'm really not sure about it. But I descided to create no pressure for this, fine if I can make it happen, but I'm not going to sacrifice mental health for it, or risk to appear at the track with a poorly prepped car, that happened to often in 2009 to me. I'm not going to make that mistake again -- too expensive for too little fun.
I will try to keep this updated with results and pictures when I have some results to present.
The theme this month was "Post 70s Sporting Legends" - pictures HERE.
Our Jag was almost sent away; they didn't believe it was 74! Ended up next to the new 500... not what I'd consider a sporting legend!!!
Also met up with my friend with the GT6; who lent me the caliper spreader - I "lent" him four pints of real ale
Aaron here; I believe I may be the first person to take up residence in this blog section. If not; then I must be the youngest.
Anyway; my car's thread is here.
And a random video of it is here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HC2qrnOl4I
Thought id be the first to start a blog.
With regards to the car, not much is happening, focus has changed. Car is going to be made as std racing spec as possible, classic race series is out my budget but if i make it stock performance i should be able to manage a hillclimb or two a year.
I got the all clear from the hospital yesterday, leg is now at 95% strength after 7 months of healing, however it still needs some work. As such a race licence is a no go for 12 months until the give me the 100% status. More importantly i've been banned from snowboarding for another year and a half which is just shit.
Job situation may change things once again, if i do get formally offered the new job everything will change again, i cant take the car with me so it will end up going into storage.
So all in big changes ahead.
So after 11 years of abuse on sunday I killed the diff in the Hurricane
old one is a 3:89 from a spit 1500
It currently runs a Ford block with about 160 bhp
what options are there out there for replacing/upgrading it (without loads of extra work)
thoughts and costs please - many thanks for the help
We have a similar affliction, but fortunately most MWays are 3 lanes, and they are banned from lane 3 or I think things would get very interesting! Whilst visiting colleagues in Germany I have noticed that on a number of 2 lane MWays that between certain times of day Trucks are banned from the outside lane, so just have to stay in line.
I have always thought that we ought to have something in the highway code that prohibited overtaking a vehicle that will take more than a mile or say a minute, the thought of a careless driving conviction and the ever growing number of surveillance cameras might just reduce the practice.
I visited Poland by car, shortly after Glasnost, the fall of East Germany and the rise of Solidarnoshk. I entered via the south west corner ( can't recall the route exactly now) via a motorway built by the Nazis. Two carriageways, two lanes each. Both surfaced with cobble stones, no tarmac. Cost cutting road builders aren't new!
Evening, firstly apologies for delving into history for this post.
I actually ordered a set of the mini 1275gt dampers, for my mk2 rotoflex GT6, and as you say the holes in the eyes are too narrow to fit the car.
Im running the chassis mount extensions, currently with old spax.
GT, I dont suppose you (or anyone) can remember what size and where you got the wider bushes from please?
Again, apologies for dragging this back out into the open!!
Had an interesting few hours with the Vitesse and Nick at the RR last week seeing what we had with both Dissy and Points or MegaJolt, can now swap between the two in a couple of mins, so were able to do a back to back test of the two. For those of you hoping that full digital crank driven ignition will give more top end power the results are disappointing, although expected, you cant get a quart out of a pint pot, if your dissy was giving you the correct advance at high rpm's (which mine was) then there is no more to be had.
Interestingly the initial back to back power runs were as near as identical as you can get, meaning the base MJ map I had created wasn't far off what the dissy was doing.
However the good news was that after that we managed to pull about 8-10 ftlbs of torque increase most of the way back down the rev band, from about 2K upwards.
This was on WOT power runs, which is my prime interest area.
We started to see what we could do in the cruise range to see if improvements could be made, but time and a few technical gremlins that made the MJ reluctant to accept updates whilst engine was running (of course miraculously cured the following day when no RR!) meant we didn't get very far.
So will do some road testing data logging to see what improvements can be found.
Twas interesting in that Nick is used to mapping ignition timing to MAP, whereas I has set my Megajolt to run from TPS, although I do also have it using MAP as a secondary input (although not using it to apply corrections yet). So the question arose what is the difference between MAP and TPS in relation to RPM.
Realised I had some logs from last year using the same MAP and TPS sensors, which I had actually done for my AFR tuning, but realised that they would make a nice comparison set with the AFR noise edited out.
So thought I'd post them here just in case they are useful to someone else pondering the difference.
Red = RPM, Blue = MAP, Yellow = TPS
Circa 4.9v is atmospheric (WOT) anything below is vacuum!
TPS shut (on these) is just over 1v and WOT about 4.75v
I was mulling over the subject just yesterday, returning from family duties in the west of the country. Our main east-west motorway (alternatively known as 'the Motorway of Freedom' - its official title - 'the Berlin-Moscow highway' or 'the Euro 2012 approach road') is a fine piece of modern road engineering, but for the fact that a third of its cost was saved by not building the third lane. It is therefore the very essence of a spine road, coursing through the heart of Europe, choked up with HGVs most of the time, who go to enormous lengths to overtake one another, invariably with the overtaker travelling at 0.01km/h faster than the overtakee, thus choking the road still further for the 5 - 10km it takes to achieve this phenomenally pointless manoeuvre.
The law requires these behemoths to be speed limited, yet the maximum speed of one is evidently different to the maximum speed of others. Do they overtake to distract themselves from the monotony? I doubt collusion between like-minded drivers, since there appears to be some nationalism at play, with Lithuanian truckers vying with Ukrainians to be ahead of the Poles and the Germans.
Part of the gamesmanship is also to judge the moment well, so that the start of the overtaking manoeuvre engages a high speed car approaching from the rear is some seat-staining brake testing. Flashing or honking elicits little more than a extended period of parallel pacing between overtaker and overtakee.
But by then, my mulling had spilled over from the vagaries of speedometer settings to the idiocy of govt policy that would not encourage more of this freight to travel by train and to leave diesel to haul it on the last delivery mile only. After all, the motorway was built for me to discover that the A6 has an unnerving and sudden lightness of steering at 230kp/h... but only in that short bit of free road between overtaking trucks.
Paul (not my real name, Officer)
I've read that the US Department of Transportation requires speedos to read 10% high. I always assumed it was the safety nazis trying to slow us down but John's point makes as much sense if not more. Damn I hate giving up a conspiracy theory! LOL