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Moving The Engine Back - Slightly


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#1 JohnD

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Posted 02 August 2017 - 09:13 AM

There is so little space in front of the engine on a Vitesse that even millimeters are useful, apart from the overall weight balnacing Q.

Reinstalling my engine recently I went through all the non structural possibilities.    Yes, using a Spitfire or T2000 front engine plate you can move it back nine inches, but that needs major bulkhead and chassis mods.   Instead, reverse the two brackets that bolt to the block,  use up all the slot in those for the rubber mounts and put the steel tongues from those behind the plates in the suspension turrets.    This gets you an inch or so, and you will have to slot the holes in the gearbox mount plate.

 

But I have an O/drive, and this puts the 'box so far back that the speedometer angle drive fouls the end of the recess in the chassis rail.

So I made up a spacer from some scrap alloy plate to go between the gearbox plate and the rear bracket, and raise the back of the 'box 5mm.

No clearance issues for the prop shaft and the rise in CoG is neglidgable.

 

It's impossible to take a photo of this in situ, so I hope this description is enough!

John



#2 oldtuckunder

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Posted 02 August 2017 - 09:40 AM

I accidentally in a rush reversed the brackets on the block when putting the engine back in two years ago, didn't notice when I dropped the engine in until it came to bolting the headers on, then wondered why I seemed to have a bit more clearance next to the suspension towers, but unfortunately the header pipes then wouldn't clear the chassis rails where they start curving in. So had to put things back as (as usual I was running out of time). But did make a note that when/if I fit the new header set that I would investigate reshaping it a bit so that the engine could be moved back a bit (as they say every little helps!)

 

Alan



#3 JohnD

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Posted 02 August 2017 - 01:14 PM

How much clearance of the chassis rails did it need?

They are spot welded together along the seam.  Taking a few millimeters off the edge won't weaken it.

 

John



#4 oldtuckunder

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Posted 02 August 2017 - 03:11 PM

I can't remember John, but at the time the course of least resistance was swap the mounts back around, When the current headers need replacing or (I have time to play, Ha Ha) I can play with getting the new spare header set to fit with the engine moved back a tad. 

 

Am thinking of building a different gearbox this winter, which may require a different propshaft length, in which case I may well look at moving the engine back then and get it all done in one go. Time will tell!

 

Alan



#5 Nick Jones

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Posted 02 August 2017 - 06:31 PM

I moved mine back a bit when I fitted the Toyota box.  Basically just extended the slots on the mounting brackets.  

DSCF0074.JPG

Don't remember which way around they are but the back of the engine is very close to the bulkhead now so no room to go further. Still all damn tight at the front of the engine.......

 

Nick



#6 JohnD

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Posted 02 August 2017 - 09:50 PM

Hmmmmmmmmmm.

 

The clearance for the Lucas Pi Metering unit was always minimal on a Vitesse.  It's less than zero now.

I'd cut off the corner of the bulkhead before, but not enough.  Time for some more surgery.

 

Is this unintended consequencies, or the best laid schemes o' mice an' men gang aft agley?

 

John



#7 Nick Jones

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Posted 03 August 2017 - 07:21 AM

The law of unintended consequences is ever vigilant where car mods are concerned......  :pinch:

 

Nick



#8 Mark

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Posted 04 August 2017 - 07:33 PM

This is as far back as you can go without modifying the bulk head. I modified the original mounts to achieve this. Moving the engine back this amount caused all sorts of grief. New shortened narrow prop shaft, due to the increased angle the original prop diameter clashed with the underside of the hand brake reinforcement plate, I was making up an exhaust at this time so built it to fit. Engine clashed with the heater box so narrowed it by about 1 inch which involved cutting the matrix down by a couple of veins and soldering up, spacing the fan motor and reshaping the box to allow cabled to run behind etc.  Tunnel cover had to be completely remodelled as the bell housing is now inside the car. Lots of other little mods that cropped up along the way.   

 

Mark

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#9 oldtuckunder

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 11:06 AM

I can see it was tight, but a tub of Vaseline? :P

 

Nice tunnel!

 

Alan 



#10 JohnD

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 02:14 PM

This is what mine lloks like now.    Corner of bulkhead/shelf cut off at an angle and filled in with a beaten alloy plate,  "Firewall" next to gearbox cover surround cut back and hammered, reinforcement plate,  Both rivetted in, with sealant behind.

 

But alos had to trim my larger diameter intaake plenum, that was already touching the clutch pedal/master cylinder link and now was fouling the bulkhead.  (Pic below as orioginally fabbed) Probabaly a good idea, anyway, to improve the flow to the rear intake.

 

John

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Edited by JohnD, 05 August 2017 - 02:15 PM.


#11 oldtuckunder

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 05:21 PM

How does that work John?  I can see the original Plenum with Air Filter, is that the replacement Plenum in front for comparison? not an additional one?

 

Alan

 

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#12 JohnD

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 06:15 PM

Yes, Alan, comparison. 6" diameter instead of only 3", for slower velocity and higher static pressure.




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